Problem Solving

Hope this right place to ask I have the salvage of an old wooden box car it's all wood but the bolts that bind it together some are over 12' long and two inch around some are less and the corners are plate bent in a angle to protect the corners. I was wandering what kind of steel these bolts would possibly be made of . Any thoughts or knowage thank you

Can someone please tell me what this steel I was given was used for. I got 25 10' pieces of pipe, that looks like 3/8' iron pipe with steel cable inside. The steel cable inside of the 10 footers is just about 1/2" from the ends. It doesn't budge. I suspect it is some sort of steel cable about 1/2" in diameter, and a steel casing was swagged around it, but I would like to know what it was used for. The guy I got them from says he found them in an old commercial construction company building he now owns, and is remodeling. See pics attached. Also, can I forge into something useful. I got the idea that maybe I could forge the cable into the pipe for a nice piece o…

Anybody know of any Scrap steel places in Massachusetts, preferrably further east? Thanks, Archie

Attached are two pictures of the same small bowl. 5 in diameter, 0.75" deep, 14g mild steel. I have intentionally put a 'crack' in the side of the bowl and would like to fill the opening with copper (or brass). My first attempt at annealing a piece of copper wire and beating it to submission into the crack was unsuccessful. The next steps will be to fire up the ox-ace torch and simply melt/solder the copper wire into the opening. Probably assisted by some flux. Obviously there will be considerable cleanup afterward. (FWIW - I kinda like the way it looks now and I'll likely make a new one to experiment on.) Any suggestions about how to tackle this would be…

Have a client wanting custom fireplace set for their mountain cabin getaway. They're adamant on wood handles. No clue how to affix a wooden handle other to use a hand file type wood handle. You guys have any ideas? Pics say a thousand words...... Thanks, Jason

Hi there, I've been asked by a local chef, here in Auckland, New Zealand to make some serving plates for his new restaurant. He wants a rustic/battered look, hence contacting me. My thought is that stainless steel is going to be the obvious material, due to its corrosion resistance. I'm thinking 2mm 304 grade sheet, which is 5/64" I think in US measurements However I have never forged stainless and am a bit freaked out by 3 issues 1. potential mild steel contamination - So new grinding discs, cutting discs, wire brush, files etc... thats ok, but what about hammers and anvil? My biggest concern is using some SG steel formers and also some out of mi…

So I'm making a tomahawk with a high carbon bit in between low carbon steel. As you can see in the picture the steel hasn't completely welded together. Should I just put it back in The forge and try a few more times? Is there anything I should do before that?

hello, I would build an iron staircase to a loft raggiongere, height 2 metr, size scale length scale of 230 cm width 50 cm, 22 cm steps away, how should I do to get a perfect artifact? I use the material?

I have a chance to get a hay fork...(it's a 3-pt hay fork if that makes any difference in possible steel type). Anyone have an idea of what type of steel the hay forks are generally made of? Would it be good for making a 2 to 3 pound rounding hammer, for example?

I need to make a pair of cranked chest hinges. These things are mounted on the inside of the chest with the hinge eye or barrel sticking out the back. My question is about the geometry of the hinge eyes. Anyone have any drawing references? I can visualize how the eye of the long strap that mounts to the lid would go. Having trouble seeing how the eye of the bent leaf would go. I can certainly play with some ideas but thought maybe someone else has historical references or solutions. thanks, Joe

Does anyone have or know where a guy can get a pattern to make sliegh bells. Any help would be appreciated. Tried google...no luck. John

Hi. I needed a wrench for my lathe chuck - 1/2" square drive. I took some 1/2" square, took one end down to 1/2" round, cut some 1/2" -13 threads on it and added a brass handle. I used threads because I wanted the brass handle, and the brass I had didn't really like being forged - sort of crumbly. So, my problem now is locking the threads. I considered using picture, I suppose I may jut do that, but I am wondering if a mechanical lock might be better? A keyway or something, perhaps? Wanted to know what some of you thought, curious for ideas. I don't want to go too crazy,just something that will lock but still be able to be removed if it needs it. …

I've had a charity I annually support ask me about making several textured "branches" that will be wall mounted in their office (from which leaves enscribed with donors/supporters names will hang). I know exactly what they want, the illusion of a branch growing out of the wall. To get that, the branch would need to be flush, hidden mounted...somehow. I'm assuming two anchor points for each branch, so I can design 16" on center mount points, but I have no idea how to mount flush without a visible screw or bolt. ???? Help?

Ran into a bit of a kerfuffle this afternoon while making a dinner bell for a nice lady. I was running really low on fuel (doesn't that always happen), and got the thing barely finished, struggling at the end.... and it looks pretty horrible. She liked it because it's "rustic" and "looks so blacksmithed". I think it looks like a drunk chimpanzee got in the metal pile. This got me to thinking about making a jig that allowed for quick, even and consistent placing of the bends. While I like a little variation just so the things don't look like they were made by a machine, I'm seeing far too much variation between the triangles I make. When stacked up next to each o…

I started a new job yesterday working for a chain link fence manufacturer. My job requires me to use a tool to remove one piece of wire every so often to start a new roll. All the guys in the department have different tools they use and all are made from whatever scrap/junk they found laying around but I want something uniquely me, something from my forge. Basically the tools are all the same, some kind of handle and something on the end you can hook the wire in and rotates as you pull the wire from the roll. I want something that I can also clip or hook to my belt loop so that I don't drop it or it 'walk off' when my back is turned. The basic idea is something similar to…

My first fire grate; just something quick for a neighbor. I'm not sure what size stock to would work best in this case. The fire box is about 19"W x 17"H x 12"Depth. FWIW - 'Customer' has requested a distance of about 1.5" grate-to-floor distance. The box is relatively small, and obviously I don't want the material to take up the entire space, but I want it to hold up for a few years at least. This is the main heat source for their home so it's going to be used regularly. All of the grates that I've found on the web have been for much larger boxes. Hopefully that's enough background. I'd appreciate any thoughts anyone would have for basic stock width to s…

so yesterday i had the idea of making a connecting rode from a Subaru into a billet that i can work into something later but could not get the end that attaches to the crankshaft to fuse to itself ( have to weld it to itself due to is being in the shape of a C). i did not use flux, mainly because i do not know what to use for flux. any ideas on how i can do it without flux? is it even possible?

I'm attempting to make a flint striker. I'm using coil spring from garage door. My issue with the second n third is cracking in the steel while I'm forging. It isn't happening at the quench stage. I set them aside didn't go that far once I seen the cracks. Mostly I'm thinking I need to normalize but couldn't find answer searching. Thanks for the help. Oh I'm sure it's plenty hot because it's orange nearly yellow when it gets to my anvil. The shape simple d shape. I'm squaring the round after straightening. Hope I gave enough info. Garbear

Hello, I want to scribe my name neatly on some branded metal pendrives like Transcend Jetflash 520/710/510 or Sandisk Cruzer force or Strontium USB 3.0 Utility. I need this to gift someone. So I need it in a nice finish. I need to know where I can do it.

Hi, I recently made some tongs for picking up hot logs / bits of wood. The client described the design an I made it out of mild steel. It was all one pice with the flexible spine made by thinning out the material at the bend. It worked after a fassion but I didn't get a lot of movement and apparently cracks have now started to appear. I looked at similar designs online like the ones below and noticed that some had inserts riveted on to the bend. Am I heat treating the steel wrong, or is it to thick or will mild steel never have the correct flex and memory to be suitable for this type of application? thanks

I was wondering how people mark steel when they are working it? Using a pencil or marker doesn't work as it's burned away. Scratching the metal doesn't seem to work, as I can't see the scratches on the hot steel. The only thing I've found that works is punching a small denty, however, this isn't pretty, and won't work for longer lines. Measuring doesn't really do any good when you can't mark What do you use, and what did the people of old use?

I've attached a picture of a fancy hook I'd like to make. The center hook and the two side scrolls are connected with a series of thin bands running around the middle. I'm trying to find out what this banding process is called so I can get information on how to do it. Thanks, EddieD

Hot forged steel (EN 8-D) .The problem occurs when the steel is to be bend at 90 degrees to give L shape. Does anyone knows a method or any machine ? (DIAMETER = 13,14,15 MM)

Hi guys, first time on this forum and straight to Problem Solving. I need an advice on reconnecting a thicker steel wire in a vintage masher, specifically a way to solder it back while retaining most of its strength so it's still functional. I know it's not exactly a forging problem, however, all strictly soldering forums only deal with electronics, so I decided to save myself the fuss and head straight for the forge guys since I'm sure some of you guys have experience with this kind of work. Like I said, my options are right now limited to soldering and I'm curious what's the best way to go about it, as simply as possible. Thanks in advance, Dave

I'd like to make wheels for my forge to make it easier to set up and put away (I forge outside). The wheels would need to be fairly large diameter to deal with uneven ground so I'm thinking 18" diameter or thereabouts. I'd like to make the wheel/tire, spokes, and hub out of steel. I've bent an awful lot of conduit, but I've never bent a piece of flat bar into a perfect circle. I'm planning to make an adjustable bending fork for my vice, as well as a pair of forks to bend with. I was thinking I'd use a short section of pipe for the hub that would accept standard sealed bearings. My plan was to drill the hub to receive tenon ends on the spokes. I was planning to e…