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Eddie D

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    East-Central Oklahoma

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  1. Thanks for all the replies...lots good stuff to start working on. I'm old, retired, took up blacksmithing about a year ago...just recently started making knives. I have a basic understanding of heating, hammer control, drawing out, etc. That doesn't mean I'm good at it...but I enjoy it! Other than the self-made divots, my knives have turned out OK....not great, but OK. Having read all these great suggestions, I think I'm starting out with jackdawg's method...."leave more fat for grinding". I believe that will alleviate my immediate problem. I know that's just a work-around until my skil
  2. Greetings, and Newbie question: (I hope this is in the right section) I'm into my third knife build and for now I'm more concerned about learning techniques than producing high quality knives...that will come later. I have a good, free source of used leaf springs, so that's what I'm using to learn on. My problem is that after forging and initial shaping, I'm having trouble getting the steel perfectly flat. It looks flat until I start grinding the blade, and then the unevenness shows up. Any suggestions on the best way to get the blade flat? Thanks, Eddie D Eastern Oklahoma
  3. Eddie D


    Thanks guys...that is exactly the information I was looking for. Can't wait to try it out! Eddie D
  4. Eddie D


    I've attached a picture of a fancy hook I'd like to make. The center hook and the two side scrolls are connected with a series of thin bands running around the middle. I'm trying to find out what this banding process is called so I can get information on how to do it. Thanks, EddieD
  5. All I can say is what a great forum! I got so many good suggestions as a result of my original post. In fact, one of the reasons it's taken a while to get back to the discussion is that I've been experimenting and trying out ideas that were presented here. Obviously, as a new blacksmith, every operation, every technique, every reaction is something new to study and learn from. One cause and effect leads to yet another cause and effect, and so on. To me, that's part of the challenge and appeal of learning this craft. With that said, I've attached a picture of a dinner bell and the ben
  6. Follow Up... This morning was a little cooler here in Eastern Oklahoma, so I went down to the shop to try out the various bending methods suggested here. I had already made a several bending jigs (both fixed and adjustable), I haven't made a bending fork yet, but it's on my to-do list. I'm still hampered by my clumsiness using the tongs. I'm so slow that some of the multi-stage solutions just don't work very well for me... i.e. selective quenching. I'm sure that will improve with experience. What worked best for me was the suggestion to use a pipe. I used the pipe in conjunction wi
  7. Thanks guys for the great tips. It's amazing how the complex becomes understandable when knowledgeable people get involved. I'm anxious to try both the pipe bending, and localized cooling techniques...in fact I'll probably try them today. To address Frosty's comment, I live in the hills of east central Oklahoma, and I'd welcome the chance to meet and learn from any fellow blacksmiths in the area. And to borrow part of Thomas' "handle", I guess I'm the "apprentice curmudgeon". Thanks again for your input! Eddie D
  8. Newbie question: I have some 1/2' round bar (mild steel), that I want to bend in several places. I have a used, commercial coal forge with a recessed fire pot and clinker breaker. My question is if there is a way, to limit the heated area (length) in the bar to only a couple of inches? I notice that I have trouble keeping the bends tight when too much of the bar is heated. Is it possible to reduce the width of the heat zone with fire bricks or other restrictions? I hope my terminology was clear enough to explain my problem. Thanks for any suggestions you can provide. Eddie D
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