Fireplace tools w/ wood handles

[Cowpuncher]

Have a client wanting custom fireplace set for their mountain cabin getaway. They're adamant  on wood handles. No clue how to affix a wooden handle other to use a hand file type wood handle. You guys have any ideas? Pics say a thousand words...... 

Thanks,

Jason

[JHCC]

Treat it like a knife handle: either with a hidden tang (like a file) or with scales riveted to either side. The latter gives plenty of options for rivet material. 

One option would be to have a tang (of either variety) that extends all the way through the handle and then forms a loop for hanging. 

[ThomasPowers]

Use branches to look like firewood

[JHCC]

WWAGWD?

[Judson Yaggy]

Weld on a lag screw and twist on the wooden handles.

[Cowpuncher]

^^ Great ideas. 

[ThomasPowers]

By branches I meant pieces that had stubs in them so you could use them to hand the tools on a rack.  Apple wood would be nice.

[WoodnMetalGuy]

Years ago I made a fireplace poker with octagonal (I think; maybe it was hex) rod, and pressed that into a slightly undersized hole in a turned walnut handle, and it has remained secure for years.  -- Dave

[Stash]

Make a large socket insert the wood handle and pin it with a tricked out rivet.

Steve

[will52100]

Nothing fancy, one I did several years ago for my wood heater.  Just a turned red oak handle. drilled a 3/8 hole most of the way through, tapered the end of the poker and squared it, ground off the scale and epoxied it in place.  I set it up so the epoxy would have a little room, and the start of the square taper is just inside the drilled hole of the handle for a tight fit.  Been working good for 7-8 years now.  Wish I'd done an oil finish on the handle, but so far the poly is doing OK.  If I was to do a fancy version I'd likely make ferrules and use something other than red oak.

[SmoothBore]

I often do "bark on" handles, on Branding Irons.

Use a "smooth" bark, ( like Maple ) and cut branches for any "bark on" project NOW, ( winter ) ... while the sap is "down".

( This prevents the bark from coming off as the wood seasons. )

Also note, ... the bark on the "handle size" branches, is much different from that of the tree trunk.

 

I drill a close fitting hole in the handle, ( slight "interference fit" ) ... heavily "texture" the steel, ... and epoxy it in.

 

.

 

[gote]

I use old brass plumber's fittings as ferules. At an early stage of turning I make shoulder and a tight fit so I can screw it on. It is not necessary to cut a thread. I then turn it together with the wood so the transition is good and the hex is gone. Then I drill a hole maybe tapered with the diameter the same as the side of the square shank of the tool and hammer it on. No epoxy or anything needed. The taper of the shank is very little so the wedging is good. This has worked fine on gardening tools in nearly constant use including pulling action.

[JHCC]

29 minutes ago, gote said:

I use old brass plumber's fittings as ferules. At an early stage of turning I make shoulder and a tight fit so I can screw it on. It is not necessary to cut a thread. I then turn it together with the wood so the transition is good and the hex is gone. 

Cool idea. If using a natural-surface handle (tree branch, etc), one could simply file the hex round (or whatever shape is appropriate and visually harmonious).