jlpservicesinc Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 1 hour ago, Judson Yaggy said: If I stoke the shop woodstove to capacity in the evening I can keep the shop 35-40deg.F. above ambient the following morning. Of course it was -15 this morning...BEFORE wind chill. -2F at the 4th stop of the day.. 16Hand Racking horse.. done outside on the driveway.. ICE frozen in them feet like it owns the place.. 15 Horses done today and it's still -1 at 2:43pm EST.. Can't wait for the spring fling.. Actually Can't wait till I can get out in the trailer and make another "How to" video.. Sadly i ruined the last 2 I shot on 2 different occasions as I learn a new camera.. I was kicking myself as 2 of the cameras out of the 3 had great footage and I deleted all the footage from the anvil front view on accident.. Stay warm.. I looked into the trailer and it was -2F so no video's today.. 7 hours ago, JustAnotherViking said: I'd much prefer to be complaining about the cold. At least you can put on more layers, light a fire. Too hot and there's only so much you can strip off. I never complain about the heat.. I rarely complain about the cold, but I complain about the snow every chance I get.. In the farrier game you go from 0 to 100 awfully quick and you just get all sweated up and it's off to the next job to start over again.. Hot, sweaty, cold, hot, sweaty cold.. Rinse repeat.. This time of year the snow in and on the feet leads to a lot of moisture and this leads to frozen tools which you have to hold and while you can add layers what do you do when you are down to a shirt, and pants and it's -10F out and it's the sweat that will kill ya.. First rule of winter survival.. don't sweat to much or else your gonna freeze to death.. I have never found the right balance of clothing to cold vs sweating.. Mind you I'm a little plumper than I used to be but still have a 30" waist so there isn't a lot of frost proofing built in.. See how lucky I am.. I got to complain again.. LOL.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stitch Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Nice bottle opener design and execution Zeroclick! I picked up about 100 Lbs. of round 1/2" x 27" A36 drops at my local steel supplier and they are great for teaching and other projects. My student Mac made his first set of tongs today from that A36. I had him practice the left, left, left method at home with modeling clay, a hammer and a block of wood for an anvil. He did a bang up good job on his first try! Pretty good for a first set and this is with a very badly damaged left hand from a firefight in Nam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAnotherViking Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Nice work. Wish I was sent home with clay to practice first! My first tongs were more like: Left left left, spend two hours drawing out one reign, stress crack, right right right, two more hours, notice the mistake, left left left, two more hours, burn in half, left left left, up to version 7 or 8 before I had two halves to fit together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stitch Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Hey Viking, You did better than me on my first pair LoL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeroclick Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 9 hours ago, Stitch said: Nice bottle opener design and execution Zeroclick! Thanks Stitch I was pretty happy with it for my first one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhutton Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Little 3/8 rebar black snake...Hanging from a shelf...Wifey said it needs to go...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Lucky you didn’t get clubbed with what was left of your shop radio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Forge Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 I finally finish ground the stainless steel hammer I made a while back. It was my first go at finish grinding a hammer by myself, and thankfully it went great. I put it to the buffer wheel, and wow did it shine up! I'll put the handle on it tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 It looks very nice but the first time you use it the face will be all marred up.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranchmanben Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 15 hours ago, BOUNTY FORGE said: I finally finish ground the stainless steel hammer I made a while back. That looks stellar. I’ll be anxious to hear how the stainless holds up as a hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Forge Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 57 minutes ago, jlpservicesinc said: It looks very nice but the first time you use it the face will be all marred up.. Yep...oh well. It was fun to make just because. 54 minutes ago, Ranchmanben said: That looks stellar. I’ll be anxious to hear how the stainless holds up as a hammer. It should hold up ok. It's out of 312 stainless and isn't hardened. Littleblacksmith has already been using his and it works pretty well. I do have plans to make a cross peen from a big stainless bolt. Not sure what grade the bolt is, but it's magnetic, so it should harden. It's super tough stuff, so that one should hold up really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 11 hours ago, BOUNTY FORGE said: but it's magnetic, so it should harden Just because it’s magnetic doesn’t mean it’ll harden. Copper alloys harden and they are non magnetic. Steel from the big box stores “weldable steel” rack is magnetic but is not capable of hardening as is a rail road spike. You might want to read up on what actually makes steel hardenable. I’ll give you a hint as to what it is too, it’s mentioned in most ever discussion here on IFI about hardening steel and it’s found in every living being in the known universe. In case that isn’t enough of a hint look up the element C on the periodic table and do some hard reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAnotherViking Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Finished up a few more bits for the doors of the shed. Happy enough with how that looks until I get a new idea. Just one more bolt to replace at the top of the door now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 On 12/20/2017 at 8:09 AM, WranglerSS said: I started my scrolling jig. I got all I the 1/2" holes drilled and will do the 1/4" today. Very sweet! Looks like mine. If there's one thing I'd highly recommend it'd be to through-drill all those holes with an undersized bit. The pegs can rest on the shoulder you create inside the hole. Not doing so will mean the holes fill up with scale really quick. Heck, even a vacuum doesn't want to pull the scale out of the smaller holes, I've found, so I'm always taking the thing off it's stand, flipping it upside down, and tapping it on the ground to knock the holes free. And that's good for just one use. As soon as you start making hooks on the thing, the holes clog right back up with scale and you've got to dismantle it again. So aggravating! As soon as I can get a mag drill, I'm going over the whole thing and running a 3/8" (?) bit through the 1/2" holes. No idea what I'll do for the smaller ones, but something's gotta give as I'm tired of cleaning the blasted holes out every time I want to switch to a new position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranchmanben Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 Viking, killer work. Obviously hand forged but clean and not over emelished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WranglerSS Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 I finished my jig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAnotherViking Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 That looks like a serious bit of kit! Now you'll have to put it to use and see how complex you can get Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorenzo 1SG Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 I’m real jealous of that jig, great job!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAnotherViking Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 Today I made v2 of the guitar bottle opener. Much improved on v1 but the aspect ratio of the body is still a bit off I also finished off a couple of new punches to try and speed up the skull opener... And subsequently made a skull Not quite right, but getting there. Few improvements to the process to figure out still Lastly I made a bunch of keyrings using offcuts from previous twisting projects... No point in throwing the left overs out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Forge Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 On 12/31/2017 at 10:59 AM, Michael Cochran said: Just because it’s magnetic doesn’t mean it’ll harden. Copper alloys harden and they are non magnetic. Dude...thanks for the tips, but you are looking way too far into what I said. I DID research everything. There are two types of stainless steel...martensitic and austenitic. These two types encompass all grades of stainless. All martensitic grades are magnetic and hardenable. All austenitic grades are non-magnetic and non-hardenable. You harden martensitic grades the same as carbon steel...water or oil quench and temper to working conditions. On 1/1/2018 at 2:26 PM, JustAnotherViking said: Today I made v2 of the guitar bottle opener. I also finished off a couple of new punches to try and speed up the skull opener I like your skull a lot, and your brassing. I still need to buy a brass brush so I can try that finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Forge Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Been busy knocking out my own things, my wife's birthday gift and custom orders. I handled my stainless rounding hammer...finally. I also finished up my wife's hammer. I made her a double ball peen hammer for her jewelry making. It's made from 316 grade stainless steel. She said she wanted a really small ball peen, so I think this one will do the trick. I totally understand why no one makes ball peens, because there is A LOT of grinding! I made a pair of custom rebar handles for a customer that made an awesome spalted walnut tray. I put a hot oil finish on them to keep the rustic look. I hammered out a custom cross for a necklace. I used a copper rivet to hold the arms together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Some really cool ideas here, as always. Viking, you are getting good at those guitars - I like the idea of the frets. I don't see what's wrong with your aspect ratio. BF, those are beautiful hammers. I can see why those small ball peens would be labour intensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Spent time in the shop most days of my holiday; Did a lot of cleaning as it's the first time in a LONG while I've had time to do what I want in the shop. Started teaching my neighbors' adult son to forge a hawk from a large ball peen----amazingly he came back day after day to work on it and is now ready to do the cold work on his own before we heat treat. Made 2 marshmallow roasters for my oldest daughter to use with her raised firepit at her new rental house; did a leaf spring froe for my twin grandkids in AR; it's about time for their Dad to start teaching them fire building for campouts and I don't trust them with hatchet...a froe keeps all the fingers from the sharp edge...I also worked on a Flying V guitar bottle opener for one SiL; I'm on the mark 3 prototype and it may be the one that gets sent. Kind of funny in that you place the bottle in the V with one leg under the edge of the cap and the other above about the middle and push the other leg down with your thumb to take the cap off. I've "proved it in" but it is a different method than most use... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 3 hours ago, ThomasPowers said: Made 2 marshmallow roasters for my oldest daughter to use with her raised firepit at her new rental house; Thomas, could you please explain what design you use for these? I have sold many toasting forks (as in bread toasting) but I think they would be unsuitable for roasting marshmallows. The steel prongs get hot and the marshmallow finishes up in the fire. You are better off using the traditional green gum stick. (Or maybe our marshmallows are inferior, I don't know.) I sell a lot of camping stuff during our high tourist season, and a workable marshmallow toaster would be a nice addition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAnotherViking Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 4 hours ago, ThomasPowers said: I also worked on a Flying V guitar bottle opener for one SiL; I'm on the mark 3 prototype and it may be the one that gets sent. Any pics of it? (and/or the other versions) Quite curious to see the design and how the opener part works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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