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I Forge Iron

Charles R. Stevens

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Everything posted by Charles R. Stevens

  1. Burn steel, melt bricks, burn out the bottom of my forge, singe eyebrows...
  2. Depends on what you are using for a blower. With the bed inflater I put the valve on one end, the pump on the other and the tuyere in the middle of the T You will still get some fire fleas with store lump charcoal, it’s not completely pyrolized
  3. Been there done that, especially with a blower. I use a “T” and a ball valve to regulate the air supply from a bed inflator.
  4. So let’s see if I can muddy the waters with my experience. 3/4” schedule 40 pipe is PDC to 7/8” ID, schedule 80 is just about 3/4” ID (if you need spacers or threw frame bosses use schedule 80 pipe) cut the opening so as to have just over half the circumspherance exposed. This makes it easier to work around the fire. As dose making the opening higher in the front. Charcoal in a side blast doesn't need a deeper fire than coal or coke, however most people find that is the case with bottom blast forges. I am of the opinion that the turn actually holds the air in fire a fraction of a sec
  5. TO I know a geologist who what’s to change over to IT, lol
  6. Have you considered a bullet grate? A 2” pipe cap with a 3/4” hole drilled in the top will shed slag in a nice donut.
  7. And generally easier to build a side blast. A 3/4” schedule 40 black pipe billed is cheap and easy to source compared to 2” pipe or a fabricated bottom blast tuyere and a grate. Not to mention the fact that the slag doesn't automatically block the air. different strokes for different folks.
  8. I don’t disagree that rotor and drum forges are usable, many smiths forge beautiful things with them. I simply am of the opinion that side blast is easier and in most cases less expensive to build, both in time and/or money wile being at least as easy to use.
  9. Ah, another aspiring smith falls victim to the brake drum forge... for what the 2” pipe fittings cost you I could have outfitted my basic smithy. that said it looks great and should burn up plenty of steel wile you polish your skills.
  10. Well, I wouldn’t say western and English are apples to oranges, more limes to lemons, lol. The Moorish influence is very heavy in the western saddle, wile the English has a clear evolutionary line from the European war saddle. The long wings in the front is very clear in that liniage. As is the Hunnish/Mongolian seat suspension system seen in the GP descendants. weird is when we get into Asian saddles, the astrailian camel saddle is a clear descendant. Those beasts basackly consider people as cargo and simply apply an adapter.
  11. The steel wire they use to bundle rebar is usually 1018 and if a good size for small rivets and nail making, washers work well to back the peined end. Think copper washers. As alluded to nail headers are easy to make as is the vice style header. Often you can find tubing flaring tools cheap and thy make ok small rivet headers. free hand I suggest putting the bars across the anvil and brace the end against your thy, then use a smallish hammer to upset the end enough to hold in the header ( simply a thick bar or plate with the right size hole drilled in it) then cut to length and con
  12. Punch the eye first, doing it after forming the head is a PITA! You can make bolsters to hold the head for drifting after it’s forged. I will try to draw up some illustrations as to how the steel moves to help you visualize what I am talking about. You can also go buy some modeling clay and “forge” it to get an idea how it moves:
  13. Ok, so there are three ways to deal with fish mouths that I know of. one, let it happen and trim it off two, forge blunt taper on the end and in effect push the taper back into the mad as you forge instead of drowning it out from the mass. three, start your taper back from the edge with a set down forging back tied the mass and drowning out from the set down to the edge. what is happening is that you are creating a ripple, like a wave at sea. So when your draw out from the mad toed the tip this wave breaks at the end forming a fish mouth. Forging a blunt taper then progressivel
  14. I once planted bamboo along my back fence, neglecting the plastic barrier against said fence. If your that neighbor best to leave me in peace.
  15. I like the free standing metal carports. They make them in all shapes and sizes, with and without sides. The snow load rated ones with square tubing frames will take R11 insulation (steel building supplies carry it on n 4x100’ bats with a white colored Mylar face. Cuts on condensation in the winter and radiant heat in the summer. Faster and price competitive with pole barns.
  16. Dirt and fly ash and cinder have been used for centuries, no reason to fear them. Sand can melt and form slag, but clay seems to moderate that. Ash added to the mix (either wood or coal) helps keep slag from sticking to richer clay mixes. If weight is an issue small bag of perlite can replace the sand in much of the mix, then skim coat with sand/clay/ash for a more durable face. This is not for insulation just weight savings. As to saving materials, anything heat resistant works, to fill the container to with in a couple of inches of the fire bowl.
  17. Yep, get a piece of 3/4” schedule 40 black pipe, run in about 5” from the rim (bottom of the pipe) stop 2” short of the middle or offset it to one side if you want more room in front of the fire. fill the kettle with mineral soil (what ever you find below the topsoil) or an Adobe mix of about 1/3 clay and at least 1/2 sand (silt and gravel can make up the rest) a bit of coal or wood ash are helpful to the mix but not necessary as Glenn hints cheap caroused or dry sweep works well as clay, but so dose clay soil from the ground or discarded clay from a potter. So ideally you want to for
  18. Remember, a36 is not 1014, know telling what scrap it was made for as long as it meets the engineering spec. Some times it has enough from in it to make it a bear to weld with out special flux. a neat chain can be made buy punching and drawing or forge welding and drawing, forming a tear drop shape you then link the tail into the eye of the next, another form is to form rods with eyes, either interlinked or linked with separate link. Viking era cooking chains often mixed and matched. as to hammers, a Tommy hammer and hand tooling can do a lot of work and they are simple to build.
  19. I like my cast iron, or plain steel. As long as the wife doesn’t clean them they are nonstick, stove to oven to table as well as home defense tools... Traded my mother for my old cast iron (the real old stuff is lighter than lodge and the new stuff) but lodge and others make good stamped steel. I will have to look it up but there are a couple of direct to consumer kitchen wear companies that have good gear worth the money as well.
  20. Edge, I use a French chef knife, my grandmother used an English butcher. The the sharp edged spatula I have would work as well
  21. Like many a vet, I answer on Memorial Day “I will pass your thanks on to then who deserve it when I see them next.” We may be more acutely aware of the truth of the day, but the cives are trying and despite our own demons, a polite thank you is appropriate. what part of the navy did you serve in, anvil? My biological and Step Dad as well as an uncle were there at the time you were.
  22. I chose to honor my mentors, those ho have passed and those who are still here buy practicing the skills they taught me. I still smile at the memory of my grandmother cracking eggs with a knife instead of a Bowl edge or when I adjust the bovine tension on my sewing machine like my mother taught me..
  23. I raise my hammer in salute.
  24. Make notes on anything actionable he dose. Then if he dose get stupid you nail him. Generally sends then home. tho I find that law enforcement generally takes a dim view on “intimidating” ones wife.
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