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I Forge Iron

What did you do in the shop today?


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Fabricating a post vise from scratch is indeed an undertaking not for the feint of heart.

I figure that the education that I get from this project will be a valuable resource to draw on at a later date.

For the upsetting, I have an anvil on the floor, and an 8# hammer.  I upset to a little over the thickness of the parent stock, then flatten two sides back to original thickness, and go again.  The most difficult part so far has been waiting on it to get hot the first time.  I don't let it go black before re-heat. 

As to jack screws, The jacks we use for gear swings etc. are hydraulic. But Acme threaded rod is pretty cheap, and there is a variety of nuts to use with.  New jaw plates can be had pretty reasonable as well.

If all goes well, ;) I should have that half well on it's way, and hole slit, and drifted to size by end of next session.

On 5/4/2021 at 2:05 AM, BillyBones said:

Started another coffee table. 

  A fine start, and I like your well organized scrap bin.  Looks just like mine. :D

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Ah, the ol' Kingsfoot.  I had a bout of it and then it seemed to go away.  Now I have diabetes to worry about.  Either way, I'm drinking way less soda (none except for the occasional one with a sit down meal at a restaurant).  

Gout always seemed to me to be one of those ancient diseases like the Grippe, the Auge, or any of a dozen ailments from a time when hand washing was mocked and surgical precision meant "within an inch or two and then they poured hot tar on where your leg used to be"

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My grandfather was doing a hot tar roof once when he fell off the roof. He landed with his arm from finger tip to elbow in a bucket of hot tar. Many skin grafts to get that fixed back up. 

When i was a kid i was aloud 1 pop a day. I always waited until evening after my bath to have it. That has carried over into adulthood and i still to this day have 1 pop a day, if i even have one. I am also not a big fan of the major pop brands like coke or pepsi, i like a good ginger ale or birch beer, love me a black cherry IBC, or a Cheer wine. 

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Worth noting that the tar used in tarring and feathering and in many wound treatments “back in the day” was pine tar, which is a lot more fluid and sticky than the asphalt tar we know better these days. Getting tarred and feathered was certainly humiliating, but — unless the mob decided to heat the tar to boiling — didn’t pose quite as much threat to life and limb. 

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I went to our hammer in today and had a good time in the forge with the other guys. Made a hardie cone and while I wasn’t real happy with it, I stopped before I over thought it and ruined it. Could have used one at the forge during the demo two weeks ago, so I put both the shops touch mark on it as well as my own. It will be there next time someone needs it.

52100, hot rasped, wire brushed and just normalized with beeswax for some rust prevention.1AACC259-500A-4794-B535-21177A0BCC43.jpeg.0571a82ce72d0a5becd861f441286b9e.jpeg

Keep it fun,

David

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BillyBones, Vernors Ginger Ale is the best I have had. It used to be aged 5 years in oak barrels, then 1, now it is probably just poured over an oak plank, but still excellent.  I also like a good sharp ginger beer.

Goods, why 52100 for the cone?

 

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Honestly, because it’s readily available to me.
Part of the regular PM’s for stamping dies at work I’d to change the guide posts (high tolerance parts). I can get them in different diameters and lengths. When I first looked up the specs, I thought they were 1045, so made a ball pein hammer from one and water quenched it. That didn’t go well! So I double check and I was wrong, was 52100. 
52100 may be a bit excessive for for a cone, but I figured it would make a durable one and be a reasonable use for this material...

David

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Welded up a combination welding cart/torch stand and attached the gas saver. Still need to get a cylinder or two of oxygen and figure out a control pedal. I’m also thinking that some kind of retractable feet to keep it from moving around in use would be a good idea.

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Might get a larger tank of propane at some point too.

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John, I believe it was Abraham Lincoln who told the story of a fellow who was tarred and feathered and ridden out of town on a rail who said that if it wasn't for the honor of the thing he would have rather not participated.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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Something like this looks like it wouldn’t be too difficult to fabricate. You wouldn’t be able to do nearly as much with it as you could with a post vise, but it should work for holding things for grinding, filing, or twisting. I’ve never seen one in person or known anyone who has used one, but I expect someone here has and would know if the are useful or not. 
 

This one has joints in the top for the side pieces, but you could probably avoid those with a welder. 

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As for what I did today, I took some flat bar and scrap 16 gauge steel and made something to hold a trash bag open while I sweep leaves into the bag.  I used some of the tips given on drilling holes (heavy pressure - slow speed) that were given on another thread.  The difference in how much easier it was to drill the holes was night and day.

I didn’t use the forge. I wanted to see if I could do it without heat. No idea why. I just did. To join the pieces I just cut 1/4” round into 1/2” pieces, beveled one end of each piece, put them in the holes, and hammered them down. Not pretty, but it is very functional. 

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8 hours ago, DHarris said:

made something to hold a trash bag open

Minions, that is what minions are for. 

Got an order for a couple hatchets, a while back ago. Made these with some mild flat bar i found in the barn and a piece of old rasp for the bit. Been working A-36 for so long now i had nearly forgotten how nice plain mild works and welds. The one on the left is fresh out of the forge from welding, still needs some hammer time, the one on the right is about ground to shape and ready for heat treat. 

One day soon i need to get the shovel and skootch my scrap pile back before it over takes my anvil. 

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I made my mom a little heart pendant (seen here next to another kind I make) for Mother’s Day. I also hot-cut an old mill pick (I think) so that I could turn it into a handled hot cut. 
Then my dad wanted to turn an old CO2 tank into a bell, so we cut the top off with a portaband and then torch cut the bottom and neck. I also tried to burn, or lance, out the brass left inside the neck, but it didn’t act like steel at all. It would just melt a little, and then spit a chunk off. I check my torch settings and I was running 5 psi acetylene, 20 psi oxygen, and then I went and lopped through an 1 1/4” tie rod, which went easily. Can you cut brass with a torch?

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1 hour ago, Owen Hinsman said:

I also tried to burn, or lance, out the brass left inside the neck, but it didn’t act like steel at all.

Oh MY WHAT A SHOCK,:o brass not acting like steel! Quick Owen, announce this discovery the world soonest! :rolleyes: Thanks for the great straight line, you've made my morning.

Kidding aside, you aren't the first person to discover this the hard way. An oxy fuel torch only works if the metal being cut has a higher combustion temp than the melting temp of it's oxides. The torch flames only preheat the steel to a point the oxy jet can ignite it. The oxy jet is literally BURNING steel to produce the necessary heat to make the cut. There was a really neat demo put on by the factory rep from Victor where his torch has a thumb valve that turned the preheat flame off and he finished the cuts with just the oxy jet. 

No, metals OTHER than STEEL don't cut with an oxy fuel torch heck many steel alloys won't. You CAN use electric arc gouging rod on most metals but be prepared for the excitement, especially if you aim it INTO a closed container. :o

Drill it then use a keyhole saw and take it out in sections. IF you didn't leave enough to get a pipe wrench on it. a CO2 tank will be right handed threads, Flammable gas tanks have Left handed threads.

Welcome to the club Owen.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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1 hour ago, Frosty said:

Oh MY WHAT A SHOCK

I wasn’t really surprised, but I thought that I could at least melt the brass out. You live you learn. Also, thanks for the explanation of HOW the torch cutting worked. I always figured it was just melting the steel away, not actually burning it and then using the heat from burning to continue cutting. Makes more sense now. 
It made one heck of a ringing noise when I was cutting. Probably a good thing, cause I’m making a bell out of it. 
 

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That's pretty cool staircase Alexandr. How solid does it feel to climb? 

John: Rusting is combustion and even it SS will rust chromium oxide has a much higher melting point than it has combustion temp, SS won't oxy fuel torch cut. Rust is just a first look evaluation rule. Rust means maybe, cast iron rusts but doesn't oxy fuel torch cut.

A plasma cutter and oxy fuel compare about like apples and squid. Plasma cutters cut conductors. No combustion involved in the process. In your cuffs or socks maybe.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I remove the valve stems on EMPTY tanks using a large pipe wrench and a large open end wrench and cheaters on both Helps to have a friend to stand on one of the cheaters.  I had a bucket of tank valves, 21 pounds worth, that I took to the scrapyard Saturday; US$13+  paid for what I took out and still had money coming with me.

Much easier than trying to remove the brass plug in the neck of a tank!

Today was more cleaning and sorting out another load of copper and brass to go to the scrapyard.  I'm turning loose of some stuff I realize I will probably never need; but could really use the space in the shop.  

52100 can be brittle for impact uses; I'd use a truck axle and trade 52100 to knifemakers!

Calling the electrician tomorrow to check status.

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