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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Jobtiel1

  1. Indeed, the craftsmanship of the time really impressed me when you see pieces like this. The outside of this chest were pretty worn, but the lock on the inside stayed intact. Concerning the anchor I can only imagine the work that was put into a piece like that. I also went to an old wharf where a lot of tools of the time were displayed. Couldn't take photo's unfortunately. ~Jobtiel
  2. Another couple pictures of a way larger anchor sitting where the old dock used to be. In the local museum there is also this intricate lock design. I think it's dated to around 1400-1500. There were two executioner's swords there too, engraved by the original master Smith to 1387. A lot of history for such a small place!
  3. Yeah, my anvil is is 240 years old, and heavily pitted when I got it about a year ago, and you can clearly see the spots I've been using the most. These spots all have flatter surfaces than the rest of the anvil. Using it cleans it up! ~Jobtiel
  4. Thanks for your replies, Concerning wrought iron, I've been on the look out in scrapyards for it, but haven't had luck in finding any, I have about 2 25 cm of 12 or 13mm square stock WI, but that's not enough for an axe. Maybe if I forge weld it together in a block, but I believe that's rather ambitious for me at the moment, since I've only done 2 successful welds, and 2 semi successful. So that's for later, I do plan on using that for an axe for myself. Academic year starts again on Monday, so I'll be down to 1 day of forging in the week. And maybe some scrapyard and flea market runs on Saturday morning. I want to start selling the axes once I have the whole procedure under control, so that's also why I want to start using steels I bought instead of from the scrapyard. Concerning the alloys, for example, 15n20 has 2% nickel. So the 0.015% nickel in my steel is I think barely noticeable, and the 0.55% copper also doesn't have that large of an effect, I found some research on a steel called NUCu100, with 1.37% copper that even had improved modern weldability. So I think I'm safe with this composition. I think it has to do with metals being able to better integrate in the metal lattice compared to carbon, a non metal, and thus needing larger differences to have significant effect in the properties. Again thanks for your replies! ~Jobtiel
  5. That doesn't seem like a lot of alloying metals, so I reckon is doesn't make it that much more difficult to forge weld? And Thomas, you're right, I don't have a lot of spending money for the hobby so cheap steel is the way to go. I also get some tool steels from a seller on a second hand site, I can't be sure the steel is the grade he says it is, but it has worked out great so far for the 1045 and 4140 he sold me. ~Jobtiel
  6. I didn't know so much steel was recycled, I'll just have to wait and see how it works out then. I have send an email to the company I got it from to ask if they have more information on the presence of other metals in the steel. ~Jobtiel
  7. Thomas, I was worried as soon as you mentioned it, however, it doesn't seem like the steel I bought is reprocessed, and I haven't found any information regarding the presence of other metals. I have found mentioned that the S235 steel is equivalent to US A283C steel. All sources I checked mention no presence of any other metals in the steel. ~Jobtiel
  8. The steel I ordered is not exactly 1018 or 1020 I found. It's called S235. It is roughly equivalent to A-36 what I could find, in the way that it is classified by physical property and not specific composition. Thing is, in Dutch Mild steel is called construction steel, and I haven't found any dealer that sells true mild like what you mention 1018 or 1020. However, they do mention that this S235 steel is always plain carbon steel - not alloyed. The maximum percentage of elements: Is this bad though? Should I look for plain 1018 or 1020 instead? This is what I've been using as mild for nearly everything. Forge welding it went alright. Luckily it is not expensive to get at all. Paid 26 euros for 2 meters of 25mm by 25mm. If I forge all of them correctly that can yield me 20 small axes the way I'm currently making them. ~Jobtiel
  9. Frosty, I didn't know 4140 is so difficult to forge weld, thanks for letting me know! I have ordered some mild steel and 1095 steel to use for making an axe. So I can try that the next time. Uni starts again next week so it might be a while before I can actually try it out. If that fails too I can order some 1045 round stock to use for the body. ~Jobtiel
  10. Very nice work Mark and Les! I spent the day trying to forge an axe again, since the forge weld popped open on the last one. It was too bad that after a couple tries this one didn't weld at all. I think the problem was that the metal was too cold, I tried to weld an old file to a 4140 body, and heard that welding temps were lower for that kind of steel. So in my inexperience in welding I think I didn't heat the metal enough, thinking that it was fine. I'm trying again tomorrow! ~Jobtiel
  11. Gandalfgreen, I don't know for what specifically, but I basically made a smaller version of the one I made for myself a while back. Mine has the handles angled in the same way and I use it to strip bark and fit hammer and axe handles. also for finer work like making things round for wooden corks and the like. ~Jobtiel
  12. Only hardened the blade, but I did make sure the tangs were not accidentally hardened during tempering. would be a shame if they broke.
  13. A friend of mine commissioned a small drawknife from me last week. I found a file today in the scrap pile that was just right for what I have in mind. I filed in some depressions for the epoxy to bind to. And he wanted to make the handles himself. This is the first piece I've ever sold. ~Jobtiel.
  14. I've only been forging for about a year, so whenever it is too hot out, I look at tutorials on the next things I want to make. I also research where I can get steel for reasonable prices, and what the different European annotations mean for the steel grade. I also have books from the library on the way that I plan to research for some inspiration. All on historical iron art and items. I also do some woodworking sometimes. For example I leave wood chisel and axe handles to work on on days I can't forge. Or I do some leather working, just other crafts that don't involve forging. Even though I do need forged items to complete the projects. If I don't feel like any of that I just play some videogames or read a book . ~Jobtiel
  15. I like somewhat historical ironworks. I'm forging fire strikers and belt buckles in a range of different styles, Viking, Roman, medieval European. I'm in the process of forging an axe now. And have some books from the library on the way on medieval iron items. ~Jobtiel
  16. Latticino, I think I do, I don't think my current set up puts out enough air at the moment. I've found some air duct and got some clamps to attach it, so the set up should improve once I adapted it. Added benefit is that the blower is easily detachable, meaning I can take it inside when I'm not forging. Saves it from the weather. ~Jobtiel
  17. Hi, My current set up looks exactly like this, but it is a picture of the old blower. It would seem that this is set up C, the worst one, but just shifted 90 degrees, I guess this means that if the blower is mounted upright, with a bit of air duct, it would work better, right? ~Jobtiel
  18. Frazer, I haven't seen that statement, I think I read over it. but that about answers the question I guess, I'll check how the blower is oiled first thing before I turn it on again. but at least the performance shouldn't be impacted by the orientation. Thanks all! ~Jobtiel
  19. Hi all, I recently acquired a new electric forge blower, and was wondering on how to attach the blower correctly. On the sales site, a blower is listed with the following advice: " ****This coke/coal forge blower must be mounted upright - feet at the bottom - as pictured***". I don't have the blower that mentions this, but I do have a blower that is of similar design, the snail house looking ones. Do all of these blowers need to be mounted this way? Or is this just a piece of advice that only works on this specific blower where it is mentioned? I have mine mounted the other way around, and I wonder if this impacts how well the blower works. Thanks for your replies. ~Jobtiel
  20. Finished the forging on the little camp axe today. It was quite challenging getting the forge weld for the bit. I welded in a piece of file I had laying around. Wanted coil spring for the bit, but I ended up chiseling the split to deep. I'm quite proud of the forge weld, even though I burnt the piece a bit, it's my second forge weld ever. The chisel split and the preform before welding. the finished forging after forge welding (and burning a piece from the front, and cutting the burnt piece off.) Now it's time for a little file work. ~Jobtiel
  21. Made a run to the coal dealer today, luckily I had just enough coal left to finish forging what I wanted to forge today. The last 75 kg lasted me more than half a year, let's see how long this one lasts with the upgraded forge. ~Jobtiel
  22. On the topic of short small projects for a demo, a fire striker like this from some coil spring might be cool too: I think that the part where you upset the rounded part into the body of the striker to make a square corner might be pretty interesting to perform and explain. Show the before and after of some onlookers. ~Jobtiel
  23. Started work on a small axe today! Started with forging the slot punch and drift for the eye. However, I quenched the drift in water during drifting the eye, and it was made from leaf spring, now there's a big crack, so I made a new one. This is what I got so far. Next time I'll finish chiselling the slit for the steel bit. And start forging the blade. ~Jobtiel
  24. Wire brushes on angle grinders can be scary stuff yeah, my wake up moment with that thing was when it grabbed and got stuck in my sweater while working. Managed to turn it off before it ripped through but things like that wake you up on safety. ~Jobtiel
  25. Spend some time forging today after a while of doing other things, and got a good test drive in on the new fire pot and electric blower. And I did my first two forge welds! I wanted to make a flux spoon to use when learning forge welding, so I thought I could use 8 mm round for that. Bend the end over itself twice to create mass for the spoon. There are big shuts visible, but it works and the welds took, so I'm happy. Also, I uncoiled some coil springs, and just before dinner, managed to forge another fire striker. Already visible in the first pic All in all, a good day! ~Jobtiel
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