BIGGUNDOCTOR

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Everything posted by BIGGUNDOCTOR

  1. I like made in USA tools, but in this case I still would not hesitate to recommend an import. I paid $1,800 for my Millport with power feeds and an AccuRite digital readout. Don't get hung up on a name. The best vertical mill at the machine shop I worked at was the ACRA, the variable speed Bridgeport needed a bunch of work even though it looked to be in good shape. Many of the imports have chromed ways , bigger tables, and will last a long time if maintained. If it says made in CHINA, walk away. Taiwan is OK, as they have been making tools for the US market for decades, and JET makes some very good quality tools. There are tons of mills on the used market, and if you are willing to spend $4,000 you can end up with one fully loaded, and a bunch of tooling to go with it. WELLS-INDEX, and Gorton are also made in the US. Gortons are really stout, and some came with #30 NMT instead of the usual R8. Lagun, and ACRA would also be a good bet. I would also avoid the bench top mills. I have yet to see one that was really good quality, and they are just a bit too light for serious work.
  2. To use pipe dope, thread the pipe in one turn, then put it on. That way none of it gets inside the piping.
  3. I prefer spiral point taps because you do not have to back them up to break the chips, just run them in. I did a lot of power tapping in the milling machine and lathe, so the spiral points were a huge plus. There are several types of taps EG; plug, taper, bottoming, pipe, spiral point, spiral flute, forming, etc...and they each have their place. As for what brands-keep it simple and just avoid any that are made in China, India, or the vicinity there of. USA, Japan, Europe are pretty good bets no matter the brand, but even then there are good, better, and best. Cleveland, Brubaker, Ghuring, Greenfield, are a safe bet. MSC, J&L, ENCO, or any other machine shop supplier will have a plethora of taps to choose from. For home use I would suggest either the bright , or black oxide finish. No need for the fancy coating$. Then get a good guality 2 jaw T-style tap handle. I prefer that style over the 4 jaw ones as I get a much better grip on the tap. The flat style of tap handle is also good, but buy quality as the cheap ones come loose while using, handles get loose, and they are just a pain to use. The ratcheting ones can come in handy, but in all of my years of doing machining and maintenance I have only run into a hand full of times that they were necessary.
  4. Anneal the rivets first if they are cracking while heading them.
  5. I have always preferred pipe dope over tape. It is more forgiving than tape.
  6. I usually get a good week out of a pair of foamies. 80 pair for $15 would last me over a year. I like plugs because they don't make my ears all sweaty during the warmer months, they typically have a higher NRR, and unless your glasses have bayonet earpieces earmuffs can be very uncomfortable.
  7. The screwmachine shop I worked at had done some .17 cal solids out of copper for customers. They told me that they would send a slug for the customer to run through the bore, then the bullets were customs made for it. One guy reported back that he was getting around 6,000 fps. Paul worked on program in the Air Force that utilized a 20mm necked down to .60 cal. Made Island Naval Ship Yard had a 16" naval gun that they shot plastic pellets out of that were around 1/2" diameter IIRC, and they were punching steel plate with them. Modern rail guns have pretty much pushed solid propellants to the wayside for velocity projects.
  8. Check your files. When I get a PDF link I also get a blank page, but the file was downloaded.
  9. "Uncle Paul" had a gun and fishing tackle store where he also did gunsmithing. People were always fiddling with items on the counter, and a few "experts" would come in from time to time. He took a 50BMG case, slid a large magnum into it, them slid a .22-250? rifle case into the magnum. He then soldered it all together, and polished it so you could not see the joints. What he ended up with was a triple necked 50 case topped off with a 55 grain .22 bullet that he would just leave on the counter. The experts would tell their compares that when that cartridge came out it was the best of its day. Paul, would sit back and watch the show
  10. That is a John Brooks anvil. Good quality. Anvils are pretty inexpensive in the UK compared to what they go for in Alaska, so where are you located?
  11. I prefer the soft foam earplugs. The ones we have at work are the 3M orange ones from Home Depot, and they are very comfortable plus a high NRR, 33 I believe. Just read up on proper insertion, many do not put them in far enough.
  12. An artist friend recently sold a rose for $150. Do not under price your labor. Put them out there for what you should charge, and see how the market reacts.
  13. Have a shop with the proper benders do the table tops for you, and then you make the rest.
  14. If it has 30%,50%,70%,or 100% rebound, the metal will move the same under the hammer. Rebound is just a measure of how hard the face is. Kiss an edge with a file.
  15. I just Googled wood cutting boards and bacteria last year when I came across a similar situation. Lots of info out there.
  16. Go the fail safe route and braze it.
  17. New, or used? Used I would say Fisher because they are quiet. New, a bladesmith friend of mine borrowed my 125# JHM Journeyman, and mentioned that he liked it. There are quite a few new anvils that would fit the bill. You would just have to determine your budget, and what features are important to you. A simple block of steel will work for blades, it doesn't have to be a London pattern anvil.
  18. Looks good! Now just leave it sitting around and let people "discover" it and ask , what the heck is that for?
  19. Ti oxide colors are pretty tough
  20. I quick buff shouldn't be an issue. I have talked with the safety guys at the mill that supplied our material, and they mentioned it is a problem when chronic exposure is experienced. Hours over years, not a couple of minutes on a buffer, and stressed that it is less than 2% in the alloy. But I do understand your position when you have students grabbing material. My only point is, read up on what the alloy is capable of, how to work it, and follow the recommendations for PPE when needed, then use it if it fits your needs. Yes, it can be a hazard, but so is the infrared exposure to our eyes from the fires we use, or the contents of the coal smoke we generate. This is not a particularly safe hobby in many ways, but with proper education of the hazards and how to prepare for them, it can be very rewarding. I'll ask what the other one was but one was named Rosheen? IIRC it was chromic acid, and it was heated before dipping the parts. One was a powder, and the other was a liquid. Now that was definitely a mandatory PPE area due to the fumes. We made electrical contacts, and sometimes we would have to chem off small burrs, or eat the dimensions down a couple of "tenths" to bring them into spec.
  21. Hold on to the BeCu. We were paying over $20 a pound for it, and it is a wonderful alloy with may desirable attributes. We chemically polished the parys we made, and it looks like polished gold when done. The Be won't exceed 2%, but just follow proper procedures and you will be good. Look up the MSDS for C173, C175 which are common alloys. The issue is when polishing or melting when fine dust, or fumes are created. We literally ran tons of it through the machines at work. It is hot short, so you cannot forge it hot. Solution anneal it, then work it. Depending on the part the heat treat was generally done at 625°F-750°F for 2-2.5 hrs. I used to toss some bar ends into the oven with the parts and used them as punches. Non sparking, and tough. That is why it is used for everything from hammers, to knives tool wise. I have quite a bit of it here for projects. Personally I plan on doing any sanding, or polishing wet, and by hand to help mitigate any dust floating around, and for a bright polish just run out up to where I used to work, and have them dip it which will literally just takes seconds to polish it. I believe the spikes I made took 30 seconds to polish.
  22. Best answer would be , what are / have they been selling for over the past couple of years? I know you guys have high prices on anvils, so I would suspect that would also apply to power hammers.
  23. Or a farrier/veterinarian fix to an ailment.. Depending on the hole pattern a single large caster may match up.
  24. Many forges have cast iron piping between the blower and the forge. Depending on the style, the majority of the value is in the blower, a forge can easily be fabbed up from whatever is laying around. Most rivet forges I see are around $100....when they are in good shape. If it is busted up, look at for just the blower value.