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Everything posted by BIGGUNDOCTOR

  1. Look for heavy equipment sales, service, and rental yards. Ask for old forklift forks, big bucket pins, hydraulic breaker points, parts, etc...
  2. If you can get it very inexpensively, a fast way to get a new surface would be to use the stand off method of welding a new face on. Space the new plate 3/8'' off of the old surface, then start welding from the center out, alternating from side to side. A chunk of forklift fork, or dozer blade will work for a surface. This will give you a new surface, and it won't cost you an arm and a leg to do. Since this anvil is broken the way it is I wouldn't worry about dumping a ton of money into it since as Thomas noted it will cost more to repair per the "standard approved method" than what you could buy another anvil for. You could be up and forging by the weekend.
  3. I'll have to dig through my cards, but I only know of one in Las Vegas.
  4. There is a 1,200# bridge anvil listed on the Minneapolis CL, $3,500
  5. Or more... a 700# Hay Budden went up to $14,000 recently. A 900# would have collectors drooling, if it got listed. I am friends with a guy on FB who buys anvils in England, then ships them to customers over here. He recently posted a 700#, he may have a bigger one. The 1,300+# Wilkinson he has is not for sale, as he was searching that one out to get it back "Home" where it belonged. For dock levelers-I would make a custom anvil from a trip to the scrap yard pieces.
  6. Toss the 4140 into a campfire and get the end bright red hot, then quench. Do a straw/purple color tempering and you will have a tougher end to work on.
  7. 300 series stainless steels are generally nonmagnetic, while 400 series are magnetic-more iron content. Something like 440c is also heat treatable.
  8. Most of the farriers around here sell the old shoes. One guy told me $40 for a 5 gallon bucket.... I passed. I went to a moving sale near where I used to work and saw some horse tack. I asked if he had any shoes. Shoes? You want shoes, follow me.. He led me to an old bathtub that was half full of shoes, and said you can have these. I ended up with around 8-5 gallon buckets full. This gets me close to what I need for a sculpture I have had in mind for a long time that I figure will take around 1,000 shoes.
  9. Scrap yards, lareg equipment rental companies, heavy equipment shops, tractor repair shops, etc... Look for forklift forks, bucket pins, hydraulic breaker points, large forgings/plate, large shafts, etc..
  10. Easy test for cast iron is put a drill bit to it. If the chips just flak off and are a gray color-cast iron.
  11. I can do that.
  12. I have a 125# Journeyman, and it is a nice anvil. A friend used it to do several pattern welded billets, and commented that he also liked it. As to old vs new. A new anvil won't have a face that can delaminate, won't have the damage an old anvil will have , they are made from better materials, and won't have a soft iron body that can lead to sway like most Peter Wrights that I have seen. I like my classic cars, but I drive late 90's Saturns because they get 40 mpg, start in any weather with just a twist of the key, go around 300,000 miles before a rebuild is needed, and are very comfortable. What they lack is the style that my 1960 Chrysler has. But, a 100 year old anvil looks like one that was made today. Really nice old anvils are getting new anvil prices, and in some cases more. If prices are close, I would buy new...
  13. Don't scrap the rasps, plenty of people looking for them to use on projects. They make good trading stock.
  14. Just give it a twist, and be done with it. Keep it simple..
  15. A guy at work has one, and it does fine. As to batteries, you can rebuild them for far less than buying a new one. There are companies that sell the cells for battery packs for around $20 last I checked.
  16. Look up the thread on recommended books for beginners.
  17. Start with some basic exercises. Fire control , and judging the correct temp color to forge at---dull red is not it. Hammer control, and the effects of different blows on a piece. Watch how a cross peen hammer moves metal compared to the ball end of a ball peen hammer. Now use that rebar to learn accuracy with your hammer. Make the round square while paying attention to making the entire section square-not diamond, and the same size end to end. Then, make that piece round again with the same attention to dimensions and roundness. Do this several times until you get good at it. Then try tapers. Taper a round piece, as well as a square one. Try drawing out a piece longer. With all of these exercises try and do them with minimal hammer marks left in the piece when done. Basic hammer skills may sound boring, but they are the foundation that you build on.
  18. Define Northern California ; Crescent City North, or Fairfield North. CA is a long state.
  19. Go to a Latin market and get a sugar cone.....then try and crush it. With those opening dimensions I was thinking for halving sugar cubes.
  20. Unfortunately we don't have one in the area yet. The closest demos/classes are in Tonopah, a few hours drive from LV. Dcoy, I got your message, and I will call you tomorrow. When is the best time to reach you?
  21. You are surrounded by non London pattern anvils. Go to scrap yards, rental yards, heavy equipment repair shops, heavy manufacturing/fabrication shops, etc.... And look for things like forklift forks, hydraulic breaker points, large shafts, bucket pins, chunks of steel, heavy plate, or any other suitable mass to hammer on. It doesn't have to have a horn and a heel to be a real anvil.
  22. You don't hit an anvil with a hammer to test it, you just let the hammer fall from your grip, and guide the handle as it drops down. You are watching for how high, and often it bounces back. Ring alone is not a good indicator of quality. Doing it with a hammer. Takes some practice. The ball bearing test is easy for anyone to see the results. Cast steel, is good, but a cast iron anvil without a steel face is just an ASO. The Wilton vise, and the Armstrong clamp in the pictures would be good items to get if the price is right.
  23. They are usually swayed end to end, but not side to side-the direction that you use it the most. You only need an area the size of your hammer head to work on, everything else is a bonus. That anvil looks in good shape. I have a 138# PW and it has a depression near the horn. I would say the majority of PW anvils I have seen are swayed, or have some other face depression. It was probably due to the soft wrought iron bodies that used, and I don't believe that they had the hardest faces either. You can do a lot of work on that anvil. Wire brush the crud off of it, mount it up, and get to work. A fine to medium unknotted wire cup wheel on a grinder will be OK. They are soft bodies, so you don't want to erase any markings that may still be left.
  24. How thick is it? I noticed that the bevel is only about halfway up the side. It looks like it will make a nice utility knife.
  25. If this is something that you want to do for awhile, cuts some shapes that you want to use, and just toss them outside somewhere where they will be exposed to the elements. Before the county rolled through my place I had piles of pine planks that had a nice gray patina, and some were starting to get the wavy grain surface. They had been out for around 5 years. We don't get much rain-around 4" total for a year, but we get 300+ days of sun, and 3 months of blistering sun in the summer. You will get some splitting, but that just works with many pieces you make from them. I gave away a lot of it so it would not hit the dumpsters.