BIGGUNDOCTOR

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Everything posted by BIGGUNDOCTOR

  1. Maybe add some tear-offs like the motocross riders use. When it gets too pitted, tear the top layer off and be clear again.
  2. I second the warning about the teeth. Grind deeper then you first intend to get down below them. As to heat treating. The materials guy at Nicholson told me that the best files were their machinist's files and the wood files and rasps were a lower grade of steel due to wood and hooves not being that hard. When I asked about heat treating he just said, treating it like W-1 would be a good plan.
  3. I am guessing that is a milling machine mark from when it was cleaned up after casting. No need to put a face on a cast steel anvil.
  4. If it is nonmagnetic I wouldn't even waste my time trying to harden it. You can probably work harden it, but not with heat. SS will work harden enough to stop a HSS drill from drilling it. SS is also not an easy metal to forge - tough. I would think of some other use for that hex you have.
  5. 671Jungle, (is that in reference to the 6-71 diesels?) for $200 you have better options. For me, 66# is really small for a general shop anvil. I would suggest at least 125# on up to say 175#. I would really search out an improvised anvil since you have some decent sized industry around SLC. You should be able to find a lot bigger chunk of steel for free or at scrap price. Scour KSL's website classifieds. Then try Glenn's suggestion of a coffee can bank that you put some cash in each time you go forge. If you can put more aside I would suggest looking at an Anvil Brand or JHM. I have a 125# JHM and it is a good anvil.
  6. More likely to damage your lungs than the forge
  7. Just go full Steampunk and use the forge to create enough steam to power what you want.
  8. Check for a delaminating faceplate on the Arm and Hammer. It should ping all across the face. Tap it with a hammer and watch for any movement.
  9. Pot holders with flowers, herbs, etc..
  10. More like cause inclusions in the weld. I wouldn't use acetone to clean it. Diesel would be less expensive and less volatile.
  11. The star was IRON CITY's logo. The last one bought was a bit beefier than that one and I paid $40. They were used by far more than blacksmiths. My last one came from a wood shop. Like I mentioned above I pay up to $10 per inch of jaw width. I have paid as little as $5, and even picked up one for free. 100 years old is not that old in smithing terms.
  12. I am sticking with Steve on this one, it looks dead on like some of the buss bar / transformer lug type connectors I have seen. That color plating is typical of electrical connections I have worked with over the years.
  13. Correct Charles, but the part lines are not that thin, they will be anywhere from 1/4"-1/2" wide depending on the size of the part. That was always the quick way to identify a forged crank from a cast one at the swapmeets.
  14. Casting would be a fast and inexpensive way to make thousands of these. I'm gonna stick with casting just due to the thin part line.
  15. It is a three phase unit. The Fanuc drives on the CNC screw machines were all marked U1,V1,W1 where the leads hooked up to them.
  16. To test the tinsel strength you will need a Christmas tree gage...... I am going to say cast steel, look at the shape and try and hammer to that between a set of dies, not going to happen. Thin parting lines are a sign of castings, wide ones are a sign of forgings,
  17. It may only deprive certain individuals in certain areas of an old London pattern anvil. We are surrounded by non London pattern anvils (improvised), as well as having brand new anvils still available. The internet allows us to shop around the world now. My beef is that the prices have gone up 500%+ over what I was paying for anvils which was $1 a pound or less from the 70's up until 2015. It seems the trend now is snagging them up, and flipping the for a big profit which I don't like. I think greed is a bigger hindrance to those starting out than lack of supply. I have seen a few hobbies ruined by the "collectible" market.. We are a capitalist society after all. You could also relate this to firearms collections. Again what was a utilitarian item that became "collectible" and prices show it. Certain models were only made for a short time and in limited numbers. Does a collector of pre-64 Winchester Model 70's deny others the privilege of owning one? Only if they do not have the money to buy one-everyone has a price. I would love to own a 41 Willys coupe, and guys have more than one just sitting around, but I also don't have the $45,000 to buy a rough project car. I have 7 good anvils and one old 50# cast iron one. I didn't buy them because they were a certain brand, or that I thought I could make money on them. I got them because they were in my price range, good condition, I had thoughts of putting packages together of anvil / forge/ vise with my extras, and they were sizes I did not have - I would still like to find a nice small anvil in the 50# - under 100# range to go with a tiny vintage forge I have. I have also loaned them out to others just starting out, but for the most part, they just sit around right now as I have not been doing any forging at the moment. I think the ones who bemoan not being able to find an anvil are limiting themselves to a fairytale idea that to be a blacksmith your anvil has to have a horn, heel, and look like it could smash a roadrunner if dropped in time.
  18. It would help if we knew where you live. Anvil Brand sells various new anvils, and I have a 125# JHM that is a nice anvil. I got it used from a retired farrier so it has the heel cams, and they do come in handy for bending items, so do not discount them. Check out the improvised anvil thread, lots of good ideas for anvils that are free to very inexpensive, and they can weigh several hundred pounds.
  19. Flood coolant also helps. I have had pieces in my surface grinder heat and warp up off the mag chuck , and into the wheel with ill effects on the part. Make the guard out of something like 1/8" (3mm) or thicker, not sheet metal. For smaller parts on a mag chuck it is good practice to place some bigger, but slightly thinner, pieces of steel around the part to help keep it in place. Smaller items have a tendency to scoot around on the chuck. I used to use thin parallels.
  20. Irondragon Forge and Clay, that is a pretty fancy burl you drew for an anvil stump. Dad and I never banded the stump under the Fisher. It was a wind twisted Eucalyptus stump , and it lasted for around 30 years before simply rotting out the center.
  21. Make a guard to go around the stone. When abrasives come apart it can get ugly
  22. That looks like the same forge I have. That was a good price for all of that.
  23. I am up to try chapulines to see what they are like. I love all kinds of food and can be adventurous to a point-no balutes for me. I was surprised how many are consumed today, they are a popular dish in other areas. High in protein and faster to raise than cattle. I have eaten crawdads, but man they are a lot of work poppin them tails for that sliver of meat. No, I don't suck the heads hahaha