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I Forge Iron

BIGGUNDOCTOR

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Everything posted by BIGGUNDOCTOR

  1. Tlmg, I keep seeing people using clamps, but has anyone used a weight? This would work more in a forge, or a kiln that you could run something through the top for the weight. Then run it through the heating cycle. When it hits temp the weight would push the layers together forming the bond. If someone was doing a lot of it a fixture could be made, and an indicator could even be used to know when it has squished. If I understand it correctly, the items are on the verge of liquid on the surface when joined.
  2. Pat, you don't want a power hammer for breaking that tine down, you want a horizontal band saw. We had a DoAll 916 at my last job, and it would zip through a tine in less than a minute. Depending on the size you have a portaband may also do it.
  3. I just bought an AMPCO ball peen. We made a lot of electrical connectors out of BeCu alloys at the last shop I was at. I did the heat treating of those items to harden them. I have quite a bit of it here in the form of scrap bar ends from the screw machines we ran. It doesn't forge hot, it just crumbles. Annealed it works cold. Polished it looks just like gold, and the color makes it easy to tell the difference from brass alloys.
  4. OK, I have owned several Saturn cars, didn't know if they were adapting something from them.
  5. Just outside of Las Vegas out by Nellis AFB there is an area used by locals to do some off-roading. There are several signs mentioning high arsenic levels in the soil, and to not breath the dust. Welding rods are being associated with Parkinson's type symptoms now. The main culprit is manganese, which is in most steels today. You may want to ask for them to specifically check for that. Copper alloys can contain lead, and nickel depending on the alloy. We used a lot of leaded nickel copper in the screw machines when making electrical connectors. C96 was one of our main alloys in use at the shop.
  6. Fleur di lis , what do you mean by Saturn overdrive unit? Ahh, just saw that was from 2020...
  7. Swing by a large fab shop if you have one around. Ask if they have a punch, and get their slugs. The shops that work with structural steel usually have ironworkers in the plant.
  8. One thing with fluorescent lights is that they start dimming after a few months, so you are using the same amount of power, but not getting the same amount of light. The bulbs will last years, but the light output is not the same as when new. Same with the metal halide high bay lights. At Jelly Belly we would go through and replace every bulb in the plant , and the difference in brightness was amazing. The bakery I worked at replaced the 400W high bay bulbs with 150W UFO L.E.D. fixtures. and they noticed a difference in the electric bill as soon as they went in. The L.E.D. was noticeably brighter, and a much whiter light. I believe now they offer them in different color outputs to match different types of lighting. That is the usual complaint I hear, they are too white of a light after being used to to incandescent yellow, or the blue tint of fluorescent.
  9. Looks like the company is still in business, drop them a line and ask what they use.
  10. I need around 1,000 shoes for a project I want to do, but my local farrier wants $40 for a 5 gallon bucket full.......nope. I was at an estate sale in UT and a guy gave me half a bathtub full of shoes. That gave me a good start on my project, but I need a lot more.
  11. I have seen small amounts melted while suspended in the coil's magnetic field. It is just this liquid ball spinning in air....until the power is killed , then it drops like a rock.
  12. Someone modified a house jack as a screw replacement.
  13. There are old pilots and bold pilots, but there are no old bold pilots.
  14. As long as you keep the orange rust off it will develop a nice patina in short order without any pitting. It is kind of like how the old firearms were rust blued, but they used methods to speed up the process.
  15. IFCW, the bumper sticker I liked was Growing old is mandatory. Growing up is optional. 2008 hurt my chances of retiring when I wanted too. My retirement funds are building back up, but slowly.
  16. You want more of a flat cutting edge for brass type alloys. The tool more or less scrapes it off. With a drill you put a small flat straight up and down on the edge, otherwise it can grab, and literally suck the drill into the part.
  17. I just turned 56 and I am still trying to figure out what I want to do when I grow up. Dad and I started smithing around 1977, never got super involved with it as there was always something new to try out. When Dad passed away in 2000 the smithing equipment had not been used for some time. I drug it down to NV when I moved, and it sat in a pile here for a few more years until I set it up again. It came down in 2017 when I had a fight with the county over my place. I really need to get it set back up again. I need some sort of distraction besides the internet. I have not done any of my hobbies that I used to love to do for several years.... wood carving, leather working, ceramics, shooting, etc.. Too many things weighing me down mentally. As to the career. When I was little I wanted to be a paleontologist until I learned you need to go to college to dig up dinosaur bones. I went to the local community college and followed Dad's lead of being a machinist. This was in the mid 80's and CNC was just on the horizon. I worked for a few small shops before starting my own machine and fab shop with a friend when I was 22. We went 6.5 years before closing up in 1993. One of the reasons we closed was we never charged enough. Don't get me wrong, we paid our bills on time, but we never made the profits we needed to really take off with the business. Around this time the the machining jobs were starting to be offshored, and were a foreshadowing of what was to come. I went to work at a customers dental metals foundry where I did the custom tooling. The induction furnace could do 25kg and we did investment castings for the ingots. Left there to go work for an automotive lift service company. From there to plant maintenance at the Jelly Belly Candy co. Moved to NV and working for a machine gun dealer. Off to another machine shop as the tool maker, then to a commercial bakery as maintenance, and now plant maintenance for TH Foods. We make the Blue Diamond brand snack crackers and our house brand is Crunchmaster. I am making the most money I ever have, yet I long to start another business. There is a building in my community that I can envision being a social hub for my small valley. Dining, dancing, meetings, a place for the kids to hang out, receptions, game nights, etc.. But is that what I want to do, or go towards a more automotive route? Maybe a second hand store, as I can scrounge deals with the best of them. Maybe set up a maker space with all of my machine tools. I just don't know which way to go. What I do know is my time here is limited, and I would like to be happier than I am now, so something needs to happen soon. I used to watch a show called Modern Masters, and think to myself how great it would be to make a living as an artist. But art is a tough way to make a living, and I followed the easier path that was more stable income wise. All I know is that I am making a ton of money which has allowed me to buy some cool cars, but I just don't have the job satisfaction I am looking for. I don't know if it is full on depression, as I do go out with friends, and socialize, but I have lost a lot of the motivation I used to have. It is more of an existence, than a life. Apologize for the rambling, so back on the topic of pricing work. There was a good thread awhile back that covered how various people priced their work from industrial smiths, architectural smiths recreating items for restorations, artists, and hobbyists.
  18. Just let it rust. When you see orange rust, buff it off with a rag, Not down to bare steel, just until the orange is gone. You will have a nice patina in no time.
  19. Frazer, if it is powder coating it sets at 300F. Heat them up past that and scrape it off. I would think it is more of an epoxy paint as that would be faster than powder painting - dip or spray compared to spray and run through a 350F oven to set it. Manufacturing is all about getting it done fast and inexpensively. Powder paint is great for many applications, I'm just not sure that springs are one of them.
  20. If you don't want to travel for an anvil, buy a new one. In many cases the new ones cost the same or less than an on old beat up one. Anvil Brand, and Centaur forge sell small affordable anvils that are good quality.
  21. The forklift manufacturers that got back with me said 4140 and 4340 is what they used for standard sized forks.
  22. Steering components are forged steel, not cast iron. Basically the only cast iron in a car could be the engine block, engine head, some crankshafts, camshafts, flywheels, brake drums and rotors. When I would strip a car before sending it to the wrecker I would pull the following (not all cars have these items) ; leaf springs, coil springs, torsion bars,front and rear sway bars, steering components-center link/tie rods/Pittman arm, VW bugs had small flat torsion spring packs in the front beam pre 68, hood springs, some cars like my 74 Duster had long torsion springs for the trunk lid, axles, clutch and brake pedals (if they were not sheet metal stampings), headliner bows used for older vinyl headliners, steering shaft, gearshift lever if the transmission wasn't to be sold, driveshafts for tubing, and sometimes the front spindles.
  23. I would think a forklift would be a good rental. Even in my rural area I can rent an 8k rough terrain extension lift. A decent sized backhoe like a Case 580 would have no issue lifting that as well.
  24. Frosty, that dish would be poutine - fries with gravy. I'll see if I can get some pictures of the area around me. We got hit hard recently with 2" of rain in 45 minutes that produced some flash floods. Those coupled with the high winds with gusts hitting 60+ miles per hour did some damage.
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