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What did you do in the shop today?


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Finally got a real forging session in today. The fixes I did to the new forge's burner collar yesterday seems to have paid off. I also swapped from a 3/4" burner to a 1/2" burner. And last but not least I turned the forge on its side so now the burner is horizontal and the height is the short dimension. Rayleigh number something or other mumble mumble :blink:. Some combination of these fixes did the trick. Got the forge just hot enough to see some scale blister off the steel. Maybe after Christmas gifts are done I'll do an emissive coating.
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Mostly I just practiced getting my hammer control back today by banging some 1/2" rebar into 3/8" square stock. But I did finish forging an A2 center punch for a gift. A2 with barely yellow heat is not fun. I think I just have bad luck with the element chromium in general. I did manage to forge this punch nearly to shape though. Had some wobbles that had to be taken out on the angle grinder. I ran out of gas before the heat treat. Need to do some homework on A2 heat treating too. Air quenching might be complicated by elevation.

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On 12/15/2020 at 10:49 PM, Chimaera said:

n a different note, I finally got tong blanks from Ken's Custom Iron

I ordered a bundle of the heavier ones. Quick or rapid I don't remember which they call them. I ordered the ones made from heavier stock. I need to get off my bee hind and put them together. 

Pnut

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On 12/17/2020 at 2:55 PM, Chimaera said:

6 layers or coins? In theory isn't each coin two layers?

Didn’t think of it like that in that case the 4 quarters is 8 layers today I made a 8 quarter or 16 layers

Well, each coin is three layers: cupronickel obverse, copper core, and cupronickel reverse. That would give a four-quarter stack the following composition:

CuNi / Cu / CuNi / CuNi / Cu / CuNi / CuNi / Cu / CuNi / CuNi / Cu / CuNi 

which is technically twelve layers. However, the CuNi layers (other than the two on the outside) will fuse into double-thick layers, which makes:

CuNi / Cu / CuNi-CuNi / Cu / CuNi-CuNi / Cu / CuNi-CuNi / Cu / CuNi 

which is nine layers.

Similarly, eight quarters will make:

CuNi / Cu / CuNi-CuNi / Cu / CuNi-CuNi / Cu / CuNi-CuNi / Cu / CuNi-CuNi / Cu / CuNi-CuNi / Cu / CuNi-CuNi / Cu / CuNi-CuNi / Cu / CuNi 

which is seventeen layers.

Which, frankly, doesn't make much difference, since (A) the outside layers go bye-bye during finishing anyway, and (B) the copper cores are so much thicker than the cupronickel faces that the double thickness of the cupronickel layers isn't much different from the single thickness of the pure copper layers.

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On 12/17/2020 at 10:55 AM, Chimaera said:

6 layers or coins? In theory isn't each coin two layers?

No, they have three: one nickel copper sandwiched by two copper nickel outers.

Every fold multiplies by the power of 3.

On 12/17/2020 at 1:21 PM, Jaegers Forge and Foundry said:

Didn’t think of it like that in that case the 4 quarters is 8 layers today I made a 8 quarter or 16 layers

Nope, 12 layers and 24 IF you didn't fold them. Looks nice, well done.

Remember the nickel doesn't work well too cool. You probably hit it too cold and caused the delamination. Happens, just remember to stop after it drops below dim light red heat. A shadow box you can check in helps but isn't necessary annealing too often isn't harmful to nickel alloys.

Spectacular as always Alexandr. You've run me completely out of ways to say how much I like your work. Were I younger I'd happily sweep your floors just to watch from out of your way.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I worked on designing the guard for a rapier; I have a nineteen eighteen issue of the 1913 Patton model cavalry "sabre" with a damaged hilt that I have long wanted to rehilt as a rapier.  Finally got started, (give you a hint my Daughter Doctor Powers was a toddler when I sourced the blade...).  I figure I will have to do several of the guards till I get what I want . The first will be forge welded from a number of bars. I'm going to try to leave the tang hole open in the welding to make it easier to file to fit.  The goal is to do the final version from some nice highly refined wrought iron I happen to have on hand---unfortunately in 1.25" round stock...

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