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I Forge Iron

What did you do in the shop today?


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First post, love going through this thread and seeing what every one does.

Stock removal, not forged,  but finished this set of kitchen knives up to be raffled off.

Talking with a local smith to get into forging, starting to gather some materials to get me started.

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Oooooo...Philb86. Your going to get the lecture about filling out your profile so we know where in this great big world you are from. There may be many of us within minutes of you that are willing to help you out. Did you not "READ THIS FIRST"? 

Them right there are some right nice knives. Even if stock removal, you did harden and temper right? 

Get your forge lit, hammer out something, show it off, have fun but above all be safe, Welcome aboard. 

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Working on this. Blade is double twisted 12 layer pattern weld. 1095/15n20. The guard is wrought. Have a big cube of wrought for a pommel as well. Forging that today. Handle is going to be leather wrapped wood. Thinking with some twine risers(correct term?) underneath. Super stoked. A dagger is one of my bucket list knives. And high up the list to boot. Also the fuller was forged in not ground. 

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I know what you mean about the bucket-list dagger.  I have an in-process ballock dagger out in the shop that’s been sitting there for a couple of years, silently rebuking me. When I did the hardening, it warped so badly that it’s more like an estoque or a grapefruit knife than a dagger. 

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My wife keeps me supplied with corks, although I cant say I dont help her from time to time, Im more of a rye whiskey person.

In fact, I did not read that, might be a good idea for me to do so.  All my 1095 is heated to 1475-1500 F and held for 10 minutes before quenching in Parks 50.  Then tempered at 400 f for 2 x 2hr cycles, hard to argue with what is recommended by the manufacturing of the 1095.  

Aric, I would be it.  Thank you for the kind words.

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Padawan Curmudgeon?  Vice-Curmudgeon? Wannabe Curmudgeon? Shadow Curmudgeon?  Come up with a good title, add it to your profile and if you are not "laughed out of the house" you're *in*!

I consider a main part of being a curmudgeon on these forums is the willingness to help folks who don't want to be spoon-fed.  Answering the same questions over and over and over; as they MUST be unique to the new person and not covered 82 times previously...But if they are good questions; they deserve answers.  HOWEVER not feeling the need to spend 3 days typing out 20 page answers to "how high is up?" questions.  These people want us to trust them with hot steel, high temps and possibly toxic chemicals and gasses; but cannot spend their time to  frame a good question?

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I really like the idea, and I've long had a fondness for padouk. However, I would suggest one detail for fit-and-finish: if you grind the wood and the steel to be absolutely flush, it will have a much smoother and more professional look.

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You're saying make sure that they touch perfectly together on the flat faces of each? Or the spine and belly of the handle line up? Either one certainly makes sense. If you mean the flat faces, would using a handheld belt sander be an option? Perhaps put magnets on the blade to hold it and press it on the sander? Or would holding the sander and having the blade magneted down work better? If you mean touching the spine and belly, I just didn't notice the issue until too late. Also, do you have a steel finish suggestion? I wanted to polish it but didn't have access to my vibrational sander or any paper over 400, so I used the orbital up to 180 then used a dremel buffing bit with a bit of 3in1 oil. For the padauk, I hand sanded to 400 then used a dremel buffing bit with some beeswax to give it a nice, deep shine. And before anyone points it out, the bevel on the finger groove is awful. I messed it up and had to just go with it. Overall, though, I think it's alright, I learned from it, I hope to make something better soon.

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Well... part of it was just to see what happened! I agree, it's really weird, I'm sure even stranger for those of you who have been doing this for years, but it actually turned out pretty well! It's comfortable, it makes you pause for a second... Possibly the only practical reason was that, if I had brought up a scale that far on the left side, you wouldn't be able to lay the blade at a gentle enough angle to whittle or cut anything other than perpendicular. If I hadn't brought up the scale that far, it wouldn't be symmetrical, and if I hadn't brought up the right scale that far it would be uncomfortable.

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1 hour ago, Chimaera said:

You're saying make sure that they touch perfectly together on the flat faces of each? Or the spine and belly of the handle line up

Yes, and yes. For the first, you don't want visible gaps between the two pieces. For the second, any places where the scale and the blade don't line up perfectly will both be visible to the eye and sensible to the hand. (My old woodworking teacher liked to point out how sensitive the human hand is to slight discrepancies between surfaces.) What I would suggest would be to wrap the blade in painter's tape and clamp it in a vise, and then file straight across the spine and the belly to make the scale and the blade match perfectly. You can then do a bit more sanding and filing to make the handle feel better to the user.

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