What did you do in the shop today?

[Daswulf]

Thanks. I think I'd like to take my time on another one. This is my first go at this. 

George, yeah I cut out the two halves including the tail fin and hammered them out with a rounded faced ballpein on the stump. It was all done cold. Then welded the halves together. Then cut out and added the fins. When/ if I do another one I would chisel the texture in the fins before welding them on. I'm kinda learning as I go on this one and realized I jumped the gun on a couple steps where it would have been better if i did more before welding. 

Twigg, the lips are some rod I bent to contour and welded on. 

[careful_eugene]

23 hours ago, Andrew Collington said:

Probably simple stuff, I know, but I made some tree decorations today.

 

They look pretty good to me, what size steel did you use?

[Andrew Collington]

Thanks Careful Eugene!  The middle one was 10mm square, the one on the right was 16mm square, and the icicle was 10mm x 2mm, I think.

[Michael]

On 12/22/2020 at 5:02 AM, Glenn said:

Outside forges (and the 55 forge) can benefit from a plastic, or other material, cover over the forge. 

My cast iron forge table is under a leaky patio roof. During the rain, I have one of those save-your-driveway drip pans, 3 foot by 4 foot that covers the whole of the forge and overhangs quite a bit. Keeps everything dry. Tarps over the tool tables, lots of long, heavy bars to hold everything down.

working on a watertight structure, having to figure out drainage in that part of the yard before erecting anything though.

 

[Andrew Collington]

6 hours ago, Chimaera said:

Finally got some good steel- Was able to make a real mokume clamp, compared to my previous attempt

That's really cool, Chimaera, and inspired me to try similar today. I think I overheated the coins after the first compress and they started to slip apart. Got three of the quarters welded together, though.. so even though my drill press broke when trying to put a bolt hole in the clamp, I'm still counting it as a win!

[Chimaera]

Uh Oh! Get a belt burn out or a critical motor failure? Either way not good, but I'm glad you were able to get some done! Remember, the more coins the more layers. Hope you can get some more done. I'm still trying to find a chance to do some (I tried once before with nickels and copper pipe with limited success). I started up the forge, did a couple chisels, a pair of rapid tongs, popped the mokume in the fire... and had to stop. From what I've heard, though, correct heating is the key to success. You want to weld when the coins are starting to look wet. After you're finished with the welds, take your "billet" and throw it at concrete. If it breaks, it means your welds weren't good enough, so you don't waste time trying to make something that's already a failure. After the weld, most people work at a red heat, is my understanding. After you've made a billet, you want to reveal the layers by using a countersink bit to drill part of the way through and then forge out flat. Really hope I can get some made. Not sure what I'd do with it, but it's beautiful material, so I WANT IT! BTW, what size plate did you use, and how thick were your bolts?

[JHCC]

Very little time in the shop today, so I did a very little project. My secondhand vernier caliper was missing its locking knob when I bought it, so (with the help of my handy-dandy new thread gauge) I determined (A) that the locking screw has an M3-0.5 thread and (B) that my local hardware store had just what I needed: 

It’s been good for measuring, but I suspect this will make it good for scribing and layout as well. 

[Frosty]

5 hours ago, Andrew Collington said:

I think I overheated the coins after the first compress and they started to slip apart.

This is why I make clamps with 3 bolts, close to the stack. It's virtually impossible to get the bolts tightened equally, maybe not with a torque wrench. 

Thick plates are good: they don't bend as easily and being thicker they don't heat as quickly as the stack, they also have a lesser COE. The last two means the stack expands farther and faster than the clamp. Thin plate and bolts stretch and flex relieving the pressure.

Even HIGH pressure is a good thing.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Daswulf]

Frosty, why 3 and not 4 around the stack then? Doubt I have time to toy with it any time soon but hearing all the talk I wonder why not 4 around the stack. I'd think less slippage if you tighten equal rotations in an x pattern. Like torquing some head bolts. 

[Frosty]

Four bolts is probably fine, three worked really well so I didn't try four.

I expect four bolts would deliver 1/3 more pressure, both from torque and COE difference. 

My last post was more comment on not making clamps with two bolts. The plates can pivot on the bolts, any tip and the stack WILL be squeezed towards the wider side. The results are pretty much what Andrew was describing.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

[Daswulf]

Thanks for the explanation Frosty.

Finished up the trout tonight. No time for a hook and whatnot. Looks better in person. Wound up being a brown trout. I kinda was hoping for a rainbow trout. Only thing I painted color was the green grass. The rest was heat colored and matte clear. Can do better on the next but it exceeds the commissioners request. Now I got the idea down. Was a fun learning experience. 

[twigg]

That trout looks really, really good for a two day build. Nice work!

No dice today, still no room to forge in. Instead I took apart my 1x30 belt sander and converted the disk sander end to a buffer wheel with an improvised arbor. Going to test it out gingerly and see how well it works when I have something worth buffing. Unfortunately, I obliterated the drive wheel of the belt grinder during disassembly. Whoops. I'm not upset because I bought this thing for $70 hoping it would last 6 months, over 16 months ago now. Definitely got my money's worth. I might be able to turn a wood drive wheel on the wood lathe, but I'd also need the left-hand threaded screw that goes with it (also obliterated).

Also tested a 1 HP single phase AC motor (120V/220V) from the scrapyard. I didn't get a motor out of it, but I did get a smoke machine! To the copper scrap pile it goes. Wasn't a total loss. I learned a bit figuring out the wiring with no diagram, just eyeballs and multimeter. (It did start, it just made some lite grinding noises and started smoking, then threw the thermal switch.)

[Andrew Collington]

7 hours ago, Chimaera said:

Get a belt burn out or a critical motor failure? [Lots of awesome advice] what size plate did you use, and how thick were your bolts?

Thanks for the great advice!  Once I am able to make a decent billet, getting a pattern more than what can only be described as "splodgey" would be a good thing, so I'll try the countersinking like you suggested.

I'm thinking the motor on my drill died - there's just no attempt at life when I got the power button. So looks like I might have to buy myself a new tool for the garage... "oh no!" 

The clamp I made was from scrap pieces of an old "up and over" garage door mechanism.  Was about 42mm x 8mm, and the bolts were M8 X 45mm.

I can totally appreciate what Frosty said about making them tighten evenly. I made it long enough to fit in the vice for compression but then struggled to keep the coins aligned when trying to tighten.  But I definitely think it was thick enough - didn't see any noticeable bending, at least.

 

2 hours ago, Daswulf said:

Finished up the trout tonight.

That looks amazing, Daswulf!

[ThomasPowers]

Twigg; did you give that motor the sniff test before getting it from the scrapyard?  Overheated windings have a distinctive smell and can help identify "leaver-rights".  (I know you probably know this; but for the new folks who haven't frequented the scrap stream...)

Worked a half day and then spent a considerable amount of time sharpening kitchen knives. A friend stopped by as they are getting ready to do a bunch chicharrones.  His knives were pretty sad both in quality and condition but I did my best---Had to start with a FILE on some of them (and a hammer!)

After they were acceptable to their owner; I "cleansed my palate" by touching up some of our kitchen knives including two old plain carbon steel Ontarios.  I pick up the old knives whenever I see them cheap at the fleamarket.

[twigg]

I've got an awful sense of smell, so I don't bother sniff testing stuff. It's so bad I can't always tell a propane leak. Once I opened it up (before testing) I did see a little black on the enamel on one side of the rotor.

[twigg]

Just kidding! The motor lives! I made one mistake in my wiring deductions last night and wired around the thermal switch on one pole. When I ran it, that pole overheated, threw the thermal switch, and kept going! Whoops! I wired it all right this time and it ran with no issues for a full minute. It's a nice little go-go-box: 1 HP 3450 RPM single phase dual voltage ODP by Century with a 5/8 shaft. Would've been perfect if the previous owner hadn't messed around with the wiring and thrown away the plate with the wiring diagram on it.

Still debating what to actually use it for  It'd be a shame to fill it with dust using it for a grinder. Might make a nice buffer instead.

[Daswulf]

Andrew, twigg, thanks! The commissioner was very happy with it and the new owner will receive it tomorrow for Christmas. 

[Bob La londe]

Today my son and I worked on a slide lock drill press vise build for his Grampa.  Tomorrow we hope to finish up the table clamp and deliver it.  

[ThomasPowers]

Twigg try to find a TEFC motor for both buffers and grinders.  (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled)

[Fowllife]

Daswulf, I'm loving the fish. It looks great. 

I finished up the rest of the stuff I needed to for Christmas the last couple days. Some more wall hooks for my family and a butterfly for the wife. 

[Daswulf]

Nice work Fowllife, and thanks. 

All the hooks look great but that butterfly hook is awesome. 

[Fowllife]

Thanks. The body took way more time then I care to admit, and there are a few things I would like to add for the next one but I’m pretty happy with it. My wife loves dragonflies and butterflies so I think I might try a dragonfly next. 

[Daswulf]

Gatta get that first one done to realize the improvements for the next. Still, I think it is perfect as is. She will love it. 

[twigg]

Fowlife, I love the butterfly! I see what you mean about the body. Nice work!

Thomas, I hear on TEFCs. I was hoping that a buffer would be a little less abusive but I hear you. Doesn't help that all the grease oozed out one of the shielded bearings. Explains the noises I heard. I'll hang onto it for now, might try to fix or replace that bearing (just for learning sake, I know it's more time than the motor's worth).

[BillyBones]

Love that butterfly. My old lady is also into dragonflies. Fun fact about dragonflies, them and humans have something in common that is found in no other creature on this planet. We can anticipate where something is going to be. For instance ever watch a lion chase its prey? They follow move for move, humans and dragonflies can see where the prey is going then go there rather than chasing. Like when hunting leading a rabbit when it is running. Dragonflies are pretty amazing critters.

Anyway, Christmas creations are done so got a little time for my needs. And i needed a nice big punch for eye holes. Started as a 2 1/2" round 2" long of S-7. Debating on a handled punch or hand held. Will provably do a wrapped handle since i do not have a punch big enough yet to make a hole, but a hand held is a little more versatile. Ah, what the heck i got a 6" long piece of 2" round H-13, i will do both. When you cant decide, do both. Moved the whole thing by hand, that was a work out now. Still needs some finish work, but i got the basic dimensions where i want them.