Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'bladesmithing'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Everything Else
    • Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
    • Book Reviews
    • Tuesday night blueprints
    • Vulcan's Grill, food recipes
    • Farriers and Horse stuff
    • Shop Tips n' Tricks
    • Gunsmithing, Muskets, Flintlocks etc
  • Store
    • Shirts, Apparel, Wearable goods
    • Gas Forge Refractories and Supplies
    • Hand Hammers
    • Books, Printed Material
  • Safety
    • Safety discussions
    • Personal Protection Equipment
    • Zinc, galvanized, and coatings
  • Sections
    • In Case of Emergency
    • Prayer List
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum
    • Australia
    • Canada
    • South Africa
    • United Kingdom
    • Ukraine
    • United States
    • Inactive


  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill


  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 19 results

  1. so i did this report on basic knife handles and figured it might be nice for other beginners like me to see so with out further ado... Knife Handles By: Marlyn Lampert Good steel is the start of a good knife, but not everything. If a knife has a bad handle it goes from a good knife to a bad knife. On the contrary if a good knife has a good handle it becomes a great knife. There are two types of fixed blade knife handles, through tang and hidden tang. Hidden tang knives look nicer as you have handle material on all sides. The handle is attached by putting a slot in the in the middle of the material and then putting a pin, pommel, or both to hold it in place. There is two main ways to put a handle on a hidden tang knife, with a block one solid piece of material or by stacking multiple smaller pieces together and use a pommel to hold them on. With either method it is common to use epoxy (a two-part glue) to provide a stronger and tighter fit. After the glue sets handles can be shaped with files, saws, knives, and sanding paper. Through tang knives are usually stronger as the tang fills the handle. Scales are used on through tang handles, these are two or more pieces of handle material such as a block cut in half or a piece of sheet cut to size. These are then attached with epoxy and use pins to hold the pieces in line and add structural integrity to the handle. Due to their better strength many modern fixed blade hunting knifes are made in this style. Wood is one of the oldest handle materials used by people, and to some people the best-looking ones. Wood scales are often bookmatched where they are paired together giving the same grain on both sides. Wood often requires to be stabilized so they do not crack or swell due to absorption of moister. This is done slowly drying the piece and then soaking it in certain oils or other stabilizing compounds. Wood is rated on the Janka Wood Hardness Scale with 0 being softest and 4000 being hardest. To give an example poplar wood has a hardness of 540. cherry wood has a hardness of 950. African blackwood an exotic handle material has a hardness of 3960 on the Janka scale. Wood handles allowed for a more natural look on knives. For some people natural materials does not give the look or feel they want; this is where synthetics are nice. The two more common types of synthetics are G10 and Phenolic Laminate more often called Micarta. Both are good choices for handles, though G10 is normally cheaper. G10 is known to be gripper when dry though Phenolic Laminates are grippier than G10 when wet. G10 is a composite made of compressed fibreglass cloth and resin. This makes for a lightweight, durable, water resistant material. Like regular fibreglass it can be coloured, and one can have anything from black or white to pink and orange. G10 is an excellent choice for a smooth, coloured finish. Phenolic Laminates are also made with a resin. They use canvas, liner, or paper soaked and pressed in a clear resin; this allows patterns in the material to show through. Some homemade versions use jeans or other cloth scraps. The name Micarta is a trademark and product of Norplex-Micarta that is incorrectly used as a blanket name for all Phenolic Laminates. Phenolic Laminates are a little harder to shape than G10 as it is a tougher material. Phenolic Laminates are a terrific way to add to the look of a knife. Wood, fibreglass, and Phenolic Laminates provide just a peek into the many handle materials. There are so many more synthetic and natural handle materials that the list is only about as short as your mind make. You can then take different pins to change things again. In the end a knife is still only as good as its steel bot you need a decent handle to hold it. Bibliography “Janka hardness” BELL FOREST PRODUCTS, INC https://www.bellforestproducts.com/info/janka-hardness/ (accessed Oct. 2 2020) Richardson, Bradley. Make Your Own Bush Knives. Mount Joy: Fox Chapel Publishing Company Inc. 2020 128-131 Zerra, Laura. A Modern Guide to Knife Making. Beverly: Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. 2018 114-115
  2. Slowed down a bit over the holiday timeframe, finally getting some time to share with ya'll my continued journey towards being a bladesmith! Behold knife attempt number 6! Blade is 1084, handle material is inlace acrylester. Used my belt sander up to 1000, then took it by hand up to 2500. Pins are brass. *Note: Still working on the other one....going to try to get better bevels into it.
  3. So recently I was involved in a debate about steel, more precisely, modern carbon steels used in knife making. This may seem like a bladesmithing topic but I think it applies better to general forging of modern carbon steel. at any rate its a good study of material science. It started as I overheard some general conversation about forging a complicated knife shape vs stock removal to achieve the same shape. the argument was that in a "modern carbon steel" it dosnt matter whether you forge the shape or mill or grind it away, it would achieve the same strength once it was properly heat treated. this went against my general understanding of forging of parts, blades, or whatever. my addition to the conversation was that, all things being equal, a forged shape would be stronger. if two parts were made, one in a machine shop via stock removal, and one in a blacksmith shop via forging with minor finishing as required to achieve similar tolerances. then both parts sent through the same heat treating process, the forged one inherently retains a more cohesive grain strength, making it stronger. the reason for machining is keeping tighter tolerances and speed of manufacturing. the argument back was that, when properly heat treated, original grain patterns do not affect finished strength, they are mostly reset. and that the talk of grain strength was just a carryover in blacksmithing from the wrought iron days of very large grains where it mattered greatly how the grain was oriented. now I don't discount that the difference may be minor, but I find it impossible to believe a forged shape isn't stronger.
  4. I've been silent for a while due to the moves (second move this year), but I'm easing my way back into things. Sorry for not being around, but glad to be (partially) back! Before my most recent move, an old student of mine announced she was getting married. As I knew I couldn't make it to the wedding due to conflicts (buying a house is time consuming), I offered to make her a knife that she could use as a cake knife as well as a decorative (but practical) piece afterward. Her immediate reaction was to send me this, an image of Orcrist from the Lord of the Rings movies. I haven't made anything like it before, so I decided to take the challenge. I started working on this in late May, and had it shipped out early July, with the blade arriving the day before her wedding. I won't bore you all with the step-by-step details, but here's the finished product and related details. Made from W-2 from Aldo, starting dimensions were about 6.5"x1.5"x0.18", the wood was about 6" of a 2" square chunk of bubinga, and the guard was made from a .5" square chunk of mild steel I had nearby. The finished product measured at 14.5" long, with the blade itself measuring about 8" of it. I forgot to get a full weight at the end, but it balanced almost perfectly on the guard. Not a good shot, but it shows something that I was trying to experiment with and learn from. I forged the guard a bit bigger than needed, and then used an angle grinder to get it to shape. I then borrowed a friend's belt grinder to flatten the bottom of it, drilled a hole into the guard, drifted the hole to be a bit larger, then did a hot fit (with a few taps on the sides) to ensure a snug fit. The guard design did call for the guard to encroach upon the blade a bit. I don't think I quite got it right, though. I think next time I'll cut a better slot for this. Doing so did heat up this part of the blade (I actually burned the wet cloth and wet leather glove I used to act as a heat sink), which did ruin the finish. I attempted to fix it with some sandpaper and a soft wheel and rouge, but as you can see, it didn't work out as well as I had hoped. I didn't quite get a mirror on this, but I think I made some progress. Due to constraints, I couldn't make this ideal. After forging, I used an angle grinder to make a small profile tweak (mostly to smooth the curve and straighten the back), take out a few minor pockmarks, and promote the shape of bevel/blade profile. I then filed it to ensure the blade bevel was there and to promote the curve of the blade, then sanded it to 1000 grit. After getting to the 1000 grit, I used a set of polishing wheels I picked up at HF, which really gave it a shine. I ended up catching a wheel on the edge at one point, so I couldn't get it back to a mirror when I was done. As I haven't gotten a mirror yet, I was pretty proud of this progress. Also, note that the blade hasn't been truly sharpened. It'll cut into things and is a great stabbing knife, but I purposely left it unsharpened for a few reasons. The first is shipping; I didn't want it to cut into any packaging. The second is a nod Japanese tradition: if you give a friend a knife, leave it unsharpened to represent that you are not cutting them from your life. As this was not a paid piece (not even a penny, as per German tradition), I didn't want to risk it (call me superstitious if you wish). Oh, and if anyone is curious for the heat treatment/tempering process: heated to orange, quenched in 200~ish degree canola oil, tempered in the oven at 450 degrees for three hours. Back to the handle. This is a hidden/stick tang knife. I did some minor drilling for the hole, then burned the tang in to ensure a snug fit, with just enough wiggle room for the epoxy to expand. Once the handle was properly shaped, I used epoxy to ensure it was in place before cleaning it up. Again, the wood is a chunk of bubinga. I did the entire process of making this with an angle grinder (stone wheel then flap wheel), then sandpaper to get it to shape. After it was finished, I cleaned it and gave it three coats of semi-gloss polyurethane, sanding and cleaning it between coats. This is the end result. Just another shot of the overall profile. This photo does mean quite a bit to me. The top photo is this knife, created this spring into summer (May-July 2016) in what free time I had after work; there's probably about 40 hours of work into it with my current tool setup revolving around small, portable tools. This is also my first time doing a blade with a hidden tang (made one for a sword, but that involved a pommel), as well as making my own guard (again, made one for the sword, but that also involved a milling machine and our instructor's help). The bottom blade is my first knife, forged during a weekend in a class I took in November 2013, made from 8"x1"x0.18" 1084, with a slab tang, no guard (really useful kitchen knife). I see it as an improvement from 2.5 years ago; not sure if anyone else would, but I'm seeing some progress with what little time I put at the forge. That sums up the newest knife. I have a few I was experimenting with, but didn't finish. My time is currently taken up with fixing the house so I can then fix the garage into a shop, so I'll be a bit quite for a while still.
  5. HI all, I have been putting off making or buying a maker's mark for some time now. My problem, which will lead to a question, is in the simplicity of the mark that I am leaning toward. Two letters SB in a "rune" style font that should be easy to make or have made. For obvious reasons I'm worried that someone else might be utilizing something close enough to this that they might take offense or, at the least, it could cause confusion. I'd rather not get in the business of calling people up to remove a mark or having to explain to someone why I didn't put a little time into confirming that my mark was actually my mark. Any help would be appreciated. Also, I am open to alternative suggestions for a mark. I am looking to keep it simple. I can provide more info about myself if someone just really enjoys designing marks.haha
  6. I've been silent on the forums lately (sorry!), but I've been trying to finish up a few projects and still have time for smithing. Real life tends to get in the way, but there are more projects coming up soon! This particular knife was made from a block of 1084 measuring 6x 1x0.18. Ring was made with the aid of a spike I found at a local farmer's market as I didn't have a large enough chisel. Tempered at 400~ish degrees (kitchen oven with a really worn dial, so may have been as high as 425). Soaked in vinegar and then hand sanded to 500 grit for the handle, while the blade was brought to 800 grit. The blade was sharpened on a diamond block up to 600 grit, touched up with 800 grit sandpaper, and can slice into paper with ease. This was made as a birthday gift to my mother, who's immediate reaction upon seeing my blades last November was "where's mine." Well, now she has one. *laughs* Any input would be appreciated! I have a few WIP shots, but nothing too spectacular if anyone wants to see more.
  7. Hello! Just opening a thread for young beginning Smith's such as myself (19) I'm very much self taught and any helpful tips, tricks, etc, from veteran blacksmiths helps, namely along the lines of bladesmithing but any tips are greatly appreciated. thank you.
  8. Hello, and greetings from Greeley Colorado! My name's Ryan, and I've been making knives for about 13 years using purely stock removal methods, but got into blacksmithing about 6 years ago and learned most of what I know from reading books and experimentation. I'd love to get involved with a group of other knifemakers and/or smiths in the area for a hammer-in or just to work on some projects together. I like teaching what I know, as well as learning from more experienced hands so whether you're a "newbie" looking to learn from someone who's walked that road, or an old hat willing to share your knowledge, I'd love to meet up and beat some steel!
  9. Hello everyone, Now that the weather has been nicer than before (we've had a lot of rain on my few days off), I was able to fire up the forge and the grinder again to get rolling on some new (to me) bladesmithing projects! This was a knife I started earlier this year on my little Horrible Freight anvil and my one brick forge (heating by a plumber's torch). I'm surprised I was even able to get this far with it! It's changed a lot since this photo was taken back in January(see below). Three knives here, immediately after quenching in canola oil and before being thrown into the oven for heat treating. The top one is a bit of a joke that I made via stock removal after watching the trailer for Jurassic World too many times in theatres and remembering the opening scene of the first movie (my wife thinks it's more like a moustache, thus the angle for the photo). Made from W-2, original stock was 8" x 1.5" x 0.187". Since the blade is a bit of a joke, I might pick up some paracord and start using that for handles, just to try it out and learn how to make some handles via knots (at least until I get a more permanent shop with woodworking supplies). Anyone have any tips for knots/approaches? The middle one is my first attempt at a bush knife. Did a lot of tinkering with it and had to cut off the point (didn't get the right angles), but the rounded blade makes this one a bit more interesting (and a nice chopper to to blade-heavy balance). Made from the same W-2, measuring 8" x 1.5" x 0.187".Yes, I did hammer the 1.5 inches down to that little taper you see there. Some people think it's crazy, I thought it was a fun experiment. That, and I wanted to really test out the 134# Hay Budden I bought earlier this year, so what better way than with an awesome knife concept? The bottom knife is the blade I showed above, after some creative grinding. Before it was a little too odd shape-wise (big belly), so after chatting with JWS about it, I cut it down to this triangular-shaped kitchen knife. This one is made of 1084, originally measuring 8" x 1" x 0.187". This one I'm not really proud of, but I did learn from it. The goal of this was to practice making a double edged blade due to a sword class I'm taking next week (no, I do not have any delusions of leaving with a sword, just learning how to make one and possibly learn some transferable skills). Didn't really turn out as planned (especially the tip), but I learned from a few mistakes here and should be able to grind it into something useful at the very least. Not sure what I'm going to do with the handle yet due to lack of woodworking supplies, but I'm sure I'll think of something beyond a twist! I'll snap more photos after they are cleaned up/polished. If I luck out, I can start again on Wednesday. Otherwise, it's just a matter of when I can get outside around my work schedule and not be fined for noise as I set up in the yard ^^;
  10. I'm from northern NH and an aspiring bladesmith and I'd love to connect with someone who could give me some hands on training. Watching videos and reading articles is fine but I'm a hands on kind of person. If there is anyone who could help me out I'd really appreceate it. Chris
  11. I have been making a decorative knife out of 1018 cold roll steel. Because my mill is currently unusable, I cannot make the crossbar out of steel (the design is too complicated for other tools). I decided that casting it out of aluminium would be the next best option. However, steel and aluminium together create a risk of galvanic corrosion. After some research, it seems the best solution would be to use aluminium 2017, 2024, or 2117, since it is very close to 1018 on the galvanic series. I also plan to insulate the two metals with rubber. My question: Will this stop the corrosion?
  12. I am wanting to make a machete for my use and maybe make a nice katana. I know not to use mild steel but besides that I know basically nothing about what steel is good and bad. I am wanting to try something besides leaf spring. Any suggestions from the masters?
  13. Hello everyone. I'm knew to the world of bladesmithing, and just felt that I needed to introduce myself. As of right now I'm in the planning stages of everything. Researching books, techniques, sketching plans my starter forge. All that fun stuff. I decided to come here first because bladesmithing is really my ultimate goal with working the forge. The end result is weapons grade replicas of video game and movie swords/knives/armor. Along with my own custom knives. I honestly prefer knives to swords. More practical in modern times. Anyway I'll pop in from time to time with questions, and try to share what ever I learn on the way. As it sets right now, I have nothing but blueprints and a dream. So since I'm on a budget I won't be posting any of my work for at least a few months while I get myself set up. My first project however will be a Scottish Dirk. I'm thinking 1095CV steel with a plain ebony handle and scabbard. Like pictured (although I think that's a leather handle and scabbard) Anyway It was good meeting you all.
  14. Hello everyone. I'm new to the craft of blacksmithing and Just wanted to introduce myself. My over all goal is to make working replica's of both video game and movie knives/swords/armor, but right now I'm just in the planning stages of planning and getting set up, so it will be a few months before working on any actual projects. I'm mostly hear to search for useful information about the craft and will be popping in from time to time to ask questions and share what I've learned.
  15. Hi to everybody, This is an old project, the blade was hardened more than one year ago and i was waiting my bro to make hilt and butt cap with lost wax tecnique but my bro is really layback (if it's the right word, I don't know) so when I moved from Italy the knife had no hilt yet. The blade is 580 layer more or less, fully fileworked, quenched and tempered already, it only needs a good polishing and a guard and butt cap along with the handle that you can already see. Can anyone suggest where I can find bronze, brass or stainless steel to make a hilt/collar, butt cap and a little pommel? Thanks for taking a look Francesco
  16. Hi guys, so I've been blacksmithing/blade smithing for 5-6 months now and have made a few knives. Surprising myself that I am very good at bladesmithing. I can make great knives already in the forge and I'm wanting a newer challenge. I want to learn to create Damascus steel. I know it's something that very advanced for a beginner smith to try. But I'd really like to try it. So what do I need to do to make Damascus I've found a steel supplier with 15n20 and I was thinking going with 15n20 and 1075 spring steel I read that in a blacksmithing book I have. Now I have a gas forge and I know how to do simple forge weld. My forge wasn't really designed to forge Damascus I don't think. You can find my forge at majesticforge.com and it's the artist deluxe 2 burner I believe that's what it's called for those of you who want to look. But Im getting a new welder in September so I want to know if there's anything else I need to get before I attemp to do this? I figure I need to get my forge around 2300? But I've never done this before so any suggestions on what temperature I should be going for and what setting I should be running? I usually run my forge from 8-25 psi it doesn't have blowers I just use the pressure of the gas.
  17. Hallo to all of you, This is a knife I made to test my skills a couple of years ago. Yes, I wasn't be able to forge yet so I'd like to share my old knives... Knifemakers always say that the most difficult fixed blade to build is a sub hilt, so, I tried making one even if I totally dislike those type of knives as they are intended as "fighters" (bleah). I want to make clear that knives, to me, are tools, the most ancient ones and I have a lot of respect for these "friends" that take us company until the first man was born. Said that, the knife: 16 cm, 6 mm thick, 5 bars composite damascus. Handle: hilt, sub hil, and butt cap twisted damascus 1070+iron, mirror polished, vulcanized fiber spacers, erica arborea handle (the wood used to make pipes), pommel wrought Iron. OAL 28 cm The difficult part was that the whole knife had to be finished before assembling because otherwise I wouldn't be able to etch the damascus without ruining the wood... I hope youl'' enjoy it!!
  18. Hi, I know that there are tons of these on this site, but none of them really meet my needs. I live in Florida, not in the country at all, and i need an anvil. I can't afford an actual anvil, as I'm only 16 and on a tight budget, nor can i get rail road track, because like I already said i don't live near railroads or rural areas at all. I've heard about the forklift tine idea but I don't really know where i would find one in my area. sorry if there is already something extremely similar to this but the forum is massive and i couldn't find anyone in the same situation as myself. Thanks, Ben
  19. Hi all, I'm a relatively green blacksmith/knifemaker with a bit of query that I hope you can help me with. I recently started using proper coal (anthracite) in my forge having before used charcoal and the increase in heat took me by surprise. Under a fast blow the coal managed to melt the 01 steel bar I was hoping to forge out into a blade in half! Now I'm not overly familiar with the rules of decarburization but from what I've gathered if the heat oxidises over critical temperature the carbon "leaks" from the metal. Now I went ahead and forged out a blade from the remaining stock but my question is this: Being that the steel has been melted (and then obviously heated and beaten several times to forge to shape) upon heat treat am I just going to be left holding a sharpened piece of mild steel? It sounds like a foolish question even in my head but I have to know whether going through the HT process is worth it or if I should just chalk it up to lesson learned. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers RaptureRaptor
  • Create New...