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Found 19 results

  1. so i did this report on basic knife handles and figured it might be nice for other beginners like me to see so with out further ado... Knife Handles By: Marlyn Lampert Good steel is the start of a good knife, but not everything. If a knife has a bad handle it goes from a good knife to a bad knife. On the contrary if a good knife has a good handle it becomes a great knife. There are two types of fixed blade knife handles, through tang and hidden tang. Hidden tang knives look nicer as you have handle material on all sides. The handle is attached by putting a slot in the
  2. Slowed down a bit over the holiday timeframe, finally getting some time to share with ya'll my continued journey towards being a bladesmith! Behold knife attempt number 6! Blade is 1084, handle material is inlace acrylester. Used my belt sander up to 1000, then took it by hand up to 2500. Pins are brass. *Note: Still working on the other one....going to try to get better bevels into it.
  3. So recently I was involved in a debate about steel, more precisely, modern carbon steels used in knife making. This may seem like a bladesmithing topic but I think it applies better to general forging of modern carbon steel. at any rate its a good study of material science. It started as I overheard some general conversation about forging a complicated knife shape vs stock removal to achieve the same shape. the argument was that in a "modern carbon steel" it dosnt matter whether you forge the shape or mill or grind it away, it would achieve the same strength once it was properly heat
  4. I've been silent for a while due to the moves (second move this year), but I'm easing my way back into things. Sorry for not being around, but glad to be (partially) back! Before my most recent move, an old student of mine announced she was getting married. As I knew I couldn't make it to the wedding due to conflicts (buying a house is time consuming), I offered to make her a knife that she could use as a cake knife as well as a decorative (but practical) piece afterward. Her immediate reaction was to send me this, an image of Orcrist from the Lord of the Rings movies. I haven't made
  5. HI all, I have been putting off making or buying a maker's mark for some time now. My problem, which will lead to a question, is in the simplicity of the mark that I am leaning toward. Two letters SB in a "rune" style font that should be easy to make or have made. For obvious reasons I'm worried that someone else might be utilizing something close enough to this that they might take offense or, at the least, it could cause confusion. I'd rather not get in the business of calling people up to remove a mark or having to explain to someone why I didn't put a little time into confirming that
  6. I've been silent on the forums lately (sorry!), but I've been trying to finish up a few projects and still have time for smithing. Real life tends to get in the way, but there are more projects coming up soon! This particular knife was made from a block of 1084 measuring 6x 1x0.18. Ring was made with the aid of a spike I found at a local farmer's market as I didn't have a large enough chisel. Tempered at 400~ish degrees (kitchen oven with a really worn dial, so may have been as high as 425). Soaked in vinegar and then hand sanded to 500 grit for the handle, while the blade was brought to 800
  7. Hello! Just opening a thread for young beginning Smith's such as myself (19) I'm very much self taught and any helpful tips, tricks, etc, from veteran blacksmiths helps, namely along the lines of bladesmithing but any tips are greatly appreciated. thank you.
  8. Hello, and greetings from Greeley Colorado! My name's Ryan, and I've been making knives for about 13 years using purely stock removal methods, but got into blacksmithing about 6 years ago and learned most of what I know from reading books and experimentation. I'd love to get involved with a group of other knifemakers and/or smiths in the area for a hammer-in or just to work on some projects together. I like teaching what I know, as well as learning from more experienced hands so whether you're a "newbie" looking to learn from someone who's walked that road, or an old hat willing to share you
  9. Hello everyone, Now that the weather has been nicer than before (we've had a lot of rain on my few days off), I was able to fire up the forge and the grinder again to get rolling on some new (to me) bladesmithing projects! This was a knife I started earlier this year on my little Horrible Freight anvil and my one brick forge (heating by a plumber's torch). I'm surprised I was even able to get this far with it! It's changed a lot since this photo was taken back in January(see below). Three knives here, immediately after quenching in canola oil and before being thrown into the oven for heat tr
  10. I'm from northern NH and an aspiring bladesmith and I'd love to connect with someone who could give me some hands on training. Watching videos and reading articles is fine but I'm a hands on kind of person. If there is anyone who could help me out I'd really appreceate it. Chris
  11. I have been making a decorative knife out of 1018 cold roll steel. Because my mill is currently unusable, I cannot make the crossbar out of steel (the design is too complicated for other tools). I decided that casting it out of aluminium would be the next best option. However, steel and aluminium together create a risk of galvanic corrosion. After some research, it seems the best solution would be to use aluminium 2017, 2024, or 2117, since it is very close to 1018 on the galvanic series. I also plan to insulate the two metals with rubber. My question: Will this stop the corrosion?
  12. I am wanting to make a machete for my use and maybe make a nice katana. I know not to use mild steel but besides that I know basically nothing about what steel is good and bad. I am wanting to try something besides leaf spring. Any suggestions from the masters?
  13. Hello everyone. I'm knew to the world of bladesmithing, and just felt that I needed to introduce myself. As of right now I'm in the planning stages of everything. Researching books, techniques, sketching plans my starter forge. All that fun stuff. I decided to come here first because bladesmithing is really my ultimate goal with working the forge. The end result is weapons grade replicas of video game and movie swords/knives/armor. Along with my own custom knives. I honestly prefer knives to swords. More practical in modern times. Anyway I'll pop in from time to time with question
  14. Hello everyone. I'm new to the craft of blacksmithing and Just wanted to introduce myself. My over all goal is to make working replica's of both video game and movie knives/swords/armor, but right now I'm just in the planning stages of planning and getting set up, so it will be a few months before working on any actual projects. I'm mostly hear to search for useful information about the craft and will be popping in from time to time to ask questions and share what I've learned.
  15. Hi to everybody, This is an old project, the blade was hardened more than one year ago and i was waiting my bro to make hilt and butt cap with lost wax tecnique but my bro is really layback (if it's the right word, I don't know) so when I moved from Italy the knife had no hilt yet. The blade is 580 layer more or less, fully fileworked, quenched and tempered already, it only needs a good polishing and a guard and butt cap along with the handle that you can already see. Can anyone suggest where I can find bronze, brass or stainless steel to make a hilt/collar, butt cap and a little pommel?
  16. Hi guys, so I've been blacksmithing/blade smithing for 5-6 months now and have made a few knives. Surprising myself that I am very good at bladesmithing. I can make great knives already in the forge and I'm wanting a newer challenge. I want to learn to create Damascus steel. I know it's something that very advanced for a beginner smith to try. But I'd really like to try it. So what do I need to do to make Damascus I've found a steel supplier with 15n20 and I was thinking going with 15n20 and 1075 spring steel I read that in a blacksmithing book I have. Now I have a gas forge and I know how to
  17. Hallo to all of you, This is a knife I made to test my skills a couple of years ago. Yes, I wasn't be able to forge yet so I'd like to share my old knives... Knifemakers always say that the most difficult fixed blade to build is a sub hilt, so, I tried making one even if I totally dislike those type of knives as they are intended as "fighters" (bleah). I want to make clear that knives, to me, are tools, the most ancient ones and I have a lot of respect for these "friends" that take us company until the first man was born. Said that, the knife: 16 cm, 6 mm thick, 5 bars composite damas
  18. Hi, I know that there are tons of these on this site, but none of them really meet my needs. I live in Florida, not in the country at all, and i need an anvil. I can't afford an actual anvil, as I'm only 16 and on a tight budget, nor can i get rail road track, because like I already said i don't live near railroads or rural areas at all. I've heard about the forklift tine idea but I don't really know where i would find one in my area. sorry if there is already something extremely similar to this but the forum is massive and i couldn't find anyone in the same situation as myself. Thanks, B
  19. Hi all, I'm a relatively green blacksmith/knifemaker with a bit of query that I hope you can help me with. I recently started using proper coal (anthracite) in my forge having before used charcoal and the increase in heat took me by surprise. Under a fast blow the coal managed to melt the 01 steel bar I was hoping to forge out into a blade in half! Now I'm not overly familiar with the rules of decarburization but from what I've gathered if the heat oxidises over critical temperature the carbon "leaks" from the metal. Now I went ahead and forged out a blade from the remaining stock but
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