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Found 6 results

  1. No idea whether or not this is the proper place to put this but I was wanting an more in depth explanation as to whether or not the transition between the edge bevel and the secondary bevel will effect a blades cutting ability. I'm not talking about a ridiculous 20° edge and a 40° secondary. I'm talking about a much closer transition but one that's not quite as smooth as it could be. I suppose the better phrasing would be "is it possible for the secondary bevel to create drag or hinder the cut in any way"
  2. I'm working on a short-ish blade right now, and I'm trying to make my chances of a successful heat treat as high as possible. I know all most of the basics and some of the chemistry, but I still have one question: What is the best method of thermal cycling/normalizing? I know that you should get it to crit temp then let it cool to black, or room temp, but how many times should I do this? What I've been doing is heating it up to crit, letting it cool to black (I do that three times in a row) then I heat it a little bit above crit and let it cool to room temp, then I heat treat. It's worked so far, but y'all probably have more experience than me. Thanks, Jacob
  3. I found this video while browsing the web, and I didn't see it in the forums here recently, so I figured I would put it up. This gentleman makes knives and treats them with 3-in-1 oil and blues them before sending them out to customers. A bunch of people were discussing best methods and he thought he would do a big sample of what the different methods can do to prevent rusting in a finished blade. Very very interesting watch!
  4. I'm a new member here and I thought this may be a good place to put a timeline of my blades for all to see and give input on. I've been a stock remover for about a year now but have only been a blacksmith for a month or two at this point in time. This first picture is the first blade I've forged. The only time I used the grinder was to clean up the grind some and sharpen it. This second picture is the next blade I forged. I made it out of some blister steel (that's a whole other story) an completely forged it, bevels and all. Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more! I usually can get a couple done per week so I'll try to stay as up to date as I can. Feel free to give me feedback! no this was not a good place, we have a knife section, I will relocate for you.
  5. Hello all, I've browsed through the the stickies and its information and found some insightful work! Everyone on here is so nice and I'm eager to pursue this hobby. I wish to create armor and weapons for me and my friends for their SCA battles (likely not using said weapons). I have experience in welding, receiving a certificate in gas metal arc welding. I'm following up on some leads to get an anvil for free or cheap. And I have a barn of tools, I also have a large deep tractor rim that I can use as the forge. Any recommendations for a novice at black smithing? I am eager to hear advice
  6. Hello everyone, Now that the weather has been nicer than before (we've had a lot of rain on my few days off), I was able to fire up the forge and the grinder again to get rolling on some new (to me) bladesmithing projects! This was a knife I started earlier this year on my little Horrible Freight anvil and my one brick forge (heating by a plumber's torch). I'm surprised I was even able to get this far with it! It's changed a lot since this photo was taken back in January(see below). Three knives here, immediately after quenching in canola oil and before being thrown into the oven for heat treating. The top one is a bit of a joke that I made via stock removal after watching the trailer for Jurassic World too many times in theatres and remembering the opening scene of the first movie (my wife thinks it's more like a moustache, thus the angle for the photo). Made from W-2, original stock was 8" x 1.5" x 0.187". Since the blade is a bit of a joke, I might pick up some paracord and start using that for handles, just to try it out and learn how to make some handles via knots (at least until I get a more permanent shop with woodworking supplies). Anyone have any tips for knots/approaches? The middle one is my first attempt at a bush knife. Did a lot of tinkering with it and had to cut off the point (didn't get the right angles), but the rounded blade makes this one a bit more interesting (and a nice chopper to to blade-heavy balance). Made from the same W-2, measuring 8" x 1.5" x 0.187".Yes, I did hammer the 1.5 inches down to that little taper you see there. Some people think it's crazy, I thought it was a fun experiment. That, and I wanted to really test out the 134# Hay Budden I bought earlier this year, so what better way than with an awesome knife concept? The bottom knife is the blade I showed above, after some creative grinding. Before it was a little too odd shape-wise (big belly), so after chatting with JWS about it, I cut it down to this triangular-shaped kitchen knife. This one is made of 1084, originally measuring 8" x 1" x 0.187". This one I'm not really proud of, but I did learn from it. The goal of this was to practice making a double edged blade due to a sword class I'm taking next week (no, I do not have any delusions of leaving with a sword, just learning how to make one and possibly learn some transferable skills). Didn't really turn out as planned (especially the tip), but I learned from a few mistakes here and should be able to grind it into something useful at the very least. Not sure what I'm going to do with the handle yet due to lack of woodworking supplies, but I'm sure I'll think of something beyond a twist! I'll snap more photos after they are cleaned up/polished. If I luck out, I can start again on Wednesday. Otherwise, it's just a matter of when I can get outside around my work schedule and not be fined for noise as I set up in the yard ^^;
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