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I Forge Iron

It followed me home


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Well, this didn't exactly follow me home - it was at home all the time, just buried in the scrap. When I unearthed it, I see the words HEAVY DUTY VULCAN TUYERE & RAPID, SYDNEY cast into the rim of the pot. I know Rapid produced forge blowers but I was not aware they made fire pots. It seems complete so I am considering attaching it to a metal surround and a hand blower as a second forge.

The thing beside it in the picture is a tuyere which I am told was connected to a water reservoir to circulate water and keep it cool. I will soon have to replace the tuyere on my work forge and I would like to know more about how these water things work. I'm guessing that the water circulates by convection and doesn't need pumping around.  I have been using old buggy axle tubes as tuyeres because they are heavy metal and last quite well, but that thing in the picture looks like it would last a lot better, even without the water flow. Anyone have any experience with the water flow tuyere and how they are set up??

tidy scrap6.JPG

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16 hours ago, John McPherson said:

From my readings on the subject, rust and freezing temps are the bane of the "bosh" tank, letting the water level get too low can burn up the nozzle, or cause steam explosions spraying the smith with scalding water.

Scalding water. Hmmm. The fun would end right there.  At least we don't have to worry about freezing the water. Not sure if it's a practical set up, but I was just looking for a way to extend the tuyere life. They must have worked well in the past.

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Charles, I’ve considered playing with an old radiator as well.  I’m not certain if the temperature difference in the water would be enough to circulate the water through all that interior volume.  And once it all gets hot you may lose circulation.  Still, I want to try it. 

9 hours ago, ausfire said:

Scalding water. Hmmm. The fun would end right there.  At least we don't have to worry about freezing the water. Not sure if it's a practical set up, but I was just looking for a way to extend the tuyere life. They must have worked well in the past.

I currently use a self made water cooled tuyere.  I do enjoy that it is “plug and play”.  Combined with an electric blower and an air gate my forge basically just goes as long as I want to use it.  My design is definitely a work in progress; but, I think that a more experienced smith who knows how they want all the other aspects of their forge to be will enjoy the addition.

I have had my bosh  freeze solid in the winter but I was lucky, I guess, and the expanding ice had room to expand without breaking welds. Rust, I am certain, will lead to the demise of my bosh in short order.  I’m looking for a stainless steel alternative.  I have an old stainless steel double kitchen sink that is tempting me.  I’m also wondering if any of those sprayable rubber sealers are able to tolerate boiling water temperature.  However, the water in my bosh has never boiled, even when it is very low.  In fact, I never keep it full anymore.

 

Lou

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So I took a little drive today. Last night a buddy texted me a photo of a classified ad in a local farming journal with a man listing anvils for sale, and a phone number. I called, he kinda described what he had, with no idea on how to send photos. I took a chance and drove to S. Joisey and did pretty well. The big one seems to be a Soderfors- flats on the feet and a stamp with 224 lbs,and a very faint 'swede' above the weight. The medium one is a 154# (1  1  14) PW with a little good honest sway, and good edges and ring. Just a few weld boogers that popped off with a chisel. The last one is what I think is a Trenton Acme (Please correct me if I'm wrong). Weighs ~ 100 ( no bathroom scale available, no weight numbers visible). Still trying to interpret the SN on the front foot. Left a few others behind for the collectors who showed up as I was tying everything down. Got them unloaded, cleaned up, and mounted the big one on a stand. Yow, she rings like a bell. So do the other 2, also.

Steve

Mod Note 478 pounds of anvils

 

anvils 3.jpg

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Picked this up from the side of the road this morning on the way to the airport. Some kind of solid round bar about 30" long, with a couple of flanges towards one end. Someone's foolish attempt at a rondel dagger?

30367F46-E7F9-4024-804A-9F56A84241AC.jpeg

(Apologies for the lousy photo.)

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I came across this Carolina 10 inch horizontal band saw for $60 bucks recently and couldn't pass it up.

saw1.jpg

 

It has a coolant oil sump & pump that works and comes with 5 gallons of cutting oil/coolant.The motor is good and it cuts, but needs a general cleaning, a new blade, and the hydraulic downfeed cylinder is shot (circled part).

saw3.jpg

 

a new downfeed cylinder costs somewhere between $120 and $150 from what I see (if the parts I am seeing for sale will actually fit this saw).

Is it possible to rebuild the cylinder, put new seals in it and such?

 

Or could I make something from a small hydraulic cylinder that will work? Maybe something like these?

cylinder1.jpg

cylinder2.jpg

 

I find these saws are typically selling for $300-$500, and they look just as used/dirty.

 

But, I've also seen a few that have been refurbished and look really nice.

Like this...

saw5.jpg

I am happy. If I get it working well, it will help me cut up some big forklift tines I have.

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23 hours ago, JHCC said:

Picked this up from the side of the road this morning on the way to the airport. Some kind of solid round bar about 30" long, with a couple of flanges towards one end. Someone's foolish attempt at a rondel dagger? (Apologies for the lousy photo.)

It’s a ground for a portable generator. You drive the stake into the ground then hook up the genset. 

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I've had good luck with vises in the past up until the last one I bought. Had a good wilton on my bench at my last job. Used to yell at the wannabe pipefitters that didn't have a clue and abused the heck out of it. Hopefully this one will treat me well for a long time.

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There is a silver circle on the side of it in the first photo. That is a short pin with a hole in it and there is one on the other side. There is a "bolt" threaded into that one and through the other one with a wing nut and a spring between them. Both have a bit of a taper on one side inside the vise. 

Basically, if you loosen the nut, the spring pushes them apart and lets it swivel, get it in position and tighten the nut and it holds it in place. I've used the ones like you said without that position lock and they can be a pain. That was one of the selling points for this one. Hopefully it holds up well and doesn't come back to bite me in the xxxx.

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