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About bajajoaquin

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  1. Are Drilling Hammers Soft?

    I know how. That’s not the question I asked.
  2. Show me your anvil

    Lol. If I'd had one, I'd have used it. After sawing through the stand with a crosscut saw, I saw that I had a limbing saw that would cut much more aggressively hanging on the wall. Not sure it would have been effective, as they're not really designed for this type of cut. And hopefully I don't have to do this again!
  3. Show me your anvil

    I think I may have posted my Hill (1830-1850, according to AiA) before, but I thought I'd post it again. My excuse for re-posting is my relatively new stand. I had used a stump, but this one is an 8x12 beam I cut and doubled up.Beam was salvaged from a house remodel. I mis-measured the height, so I had to trim it down. I didn't have any reciprocating saw blades long enough to cut across, so my brother and I did it by hand. It was a lot of work. Also included is my process for removing the plywood base I put on the bottom. I thought it would help with stability, as I'd stand on the wood, and my weight would make a difference. Turns out it warped almost immediately and just made it rock more. Without anyone around to assist, I strapped it to a hand truck and used that for leverage. Last, I moved the horn to the right side. I'm right handed, but with the horn to the left, the off-side edge was pretty beat up, and it was hard to use it for drawing or bending. I prefer the horn to the left, but the anvil is better to use with it to the right. I guess I'll have get used to it on the left again if I ever get a new/better anvil.
  4. I’d sprinkle in some more simple projects that can be executed fairly quickly. That was the philosophy of Vista Forge and their level one lessons. Leaf key fobs, trivets, hold-downs, etc. Each was in service of a lesson. There were tools in there but also fun stuff.
  5. Damascus with only hand hammers?

    Nobody has mentioned the oil or coolant heaters required to start an f1 car. They won’t run cold. They need to have hot oil and coolant pumped through them to get them up to temp and have clearances open enough to run. Like the old time shops being for more than one person, nobody has driven an f1 car without extensive support for a very long time
  6. Are Drilling Hammers Soft?

    Awesome. Thanks.
  7. Klein Lineman’s Hammer?

    The Klein I’ve seen has a wooden handle and one round face one flat face. It sounds like if that’s the case, then no, there’s no difference. Right? edited to add: maybe the work was done already and it was re-handled. If it’s a good deal, I’ll pick it up
  8. Are Drilling Hammers Soft?

    Is the struck end hardened or normalized?
  9. Are Drilling Hammers Soft?

    Just got my new touchmark and it’s fully hardened. I’d like to regularly use a softer face hammer on it. Are drilling hammers typically soft so they can be used to strike drills?
  10. Klein Lineman’s Hammer?

    I’ve noticed that the Klein Lineman’s hammer looks an awful lot like a rounding hammer. Any reason it isn’t basically interchangeable with one?
  11. It followed me home

    It’s a ground for a portable generator. You drive the stake into the ground then hook up the genset.
  12. Forging a Teacher's Key Ring

    Is there a simple thumbs up emoticon? Thank you!
  13. Alabama scrap yards

    There, I fixed it for you
  14. I mentioned in another post on how to make a swivel that I want to make a big ring for holding teacher's keys as a present for my sister-in-law when she finishes her teaching credential. I am broadly modeling it on my wife's brass ring that her grandmother used when she was a teacher. Rather than have a seamless brass ring, I'm intending to forge square bar to round, add a leaf and then make the ring by twisting the loops together. I'm fairly limited as a blacksmith, having only dabbled over the years and mostly made things from other peoples' examples. As a result, I'm not sure the best sequence of forging operations to use. I've drawn out my plan, and I'd appreciate comments. I'm looking at the ring now, and will probably add in questions for the hook and the swivel, when those come. Some notes: ring will be about 5" in diameter, which comes to about 17.25" in circumference. adding in material for the leaf, stem, taper, loops and wraps, my finished length should be about 22-23". Stock will be 3/8" bar ultimately forged to 3/8" round (except for the leaf, stem, and taper). Pictures attached for reference. You might note that my forging ability is rivaled by my sketching ability! 1. Forge steep taper for leaf shape. 2. Isolate taper for body of leaf 3. Draw out stem of leaf to 1/8" or so for about 3" 4. Forge 3/8" square to 3/8" round for the length of 17.25" from end of leaf stem. Mark with center punch at that point 5. Taper to point 3.5" long, cut off remaining 6. Flatten and vein leaf 7. Forge mostly round 8. Bend leaf back and twist to loop 9. Bend opposite side taper to fit through loop 10. Twist taper around ring to secure 11. Planish/true ring on horn What are your thoughts on this? Changes? Additional Detail?