• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About bajajoaquin

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  1. I try not to start topics that seem purpose-built to get replies that tell me I'm an idiot, but here goes.... I recently got two MacPherson struts so I could use the springs for stock. Thing is that they're still assembled, and under spring load. I don't have a spring compressor. I do, however, have an induction forge. Since I can heat one section of coil without risk of heating the shock body or the plated chrome parts to dangerous levels, could I just heat the spring to a forging heat, which would cause the spring to deform and eliminate the load? Springs are painted, not otherwise coated. As a bonus question, is there anything I can do with the chromed shock shaft? I had always figured there's no way to get the chrome off safely.
  2. Anvil face is not level.

    But again, who cares if it’s a half inch out of level?
  3. Anvil face is not level.

    He’s surely not going to use it unaffixed whether it’s level or sagging, right? That will walk all over the place. Once fixed to the stand with any number of methods (chains, bent tabs, silicone, duct tape.... whatever) the level ness won’t matter much.
  4. Anvil face is not level.

    Why not just use it as is?
  5. It followed me home

    Yep. That trick doesn't work on my phone. Good to know when I'm replying by computer, though.
  6. It followed me home

    That looks cast to me. It might not repair well using the method for wrought anvils. (I tried to just quote the text of the anvil post above, but I could either get all the pics or nothing at all)
  7. Navy Hammer sell off

    My knowledge of steam power is much less than others here, consisting of having spent a few hours helping with the startup procedure and then 10 minutes driving a 1910-ish Moline steam tractor. Having said that, it would not surprise me to find out that the inspection regimen is less onerous and spectacular than described for steam cleaning and thawing equipment. The boilers used on the tractors are inspected by pressurizing them with air when they're full of water. with only a small volume of compressible air in the boiler, a leak or failure is indicated by a small stream of water, and not an explosive decompression of the vessel. I'll see if I can remember to go through my piles of papers, but I seem to recall that they operated at 125psi new, but the way they kept them in service was to run them (at reduced power) at 100PSI, and they expected to be reducing that pressure in the future as they aged. I'm not quite sure what that says about the boiler needed for a steam hammer, but it at least implies to me that it's a different circumstance than is being described above. Also, not at all related to this discussion, but interesting is that there are few or no original steam tractors still around from some of the Plains states because of the mineral makeup of the water. It accelerated corrosion of the boilers.
  8. Unknown anvil

    That's a nice anvil. I agree that it's likely to remain a mystery, but there's no reason it should in anyway diminish how nice a score it is.
  9. Neighbors with noise conpliant

    That there is a great idea!
  10. country specific forged item

    You might look up a rubber tap. It’s the tool used to score a rubber tree so that the sap will run free for collection. Still in use in India today, and I suspect any place where natural rubber is produced.
  11. Show me your Bottle Openers!

    I really like that leaf. Most leaves have a center spine, but yours doesn’t. Can you share more details on it (in a separate thread if people get offended at the thread creep)
  12. Induction Coil Tubing Diameter

    Because I didn't buy the machine from him. He has been great and very helpful, but I don't want to presume too much.
  13. I'm just about to make some more coils for my induction forge. Actually, I'm going to make a triple coil, with three different sizes. Other than the issue of the coils sticking out farther and perhaps needing some support, I can't find any reason why I can't have multiple loops on one assembly as long as I'm only using one at a time. In order to make this coil, I am using 5/16" refrigerator tubing using the adapter nuts I got from Mettle Works. The machine comes with flare nuts in a metric size, and these allow me to use regularly-available inch sizes. However, I've noticed that my existing coils use a larger size tube (like the meteric version of 5/16") but then have a smaller diameter tube which forms the coil and is then soldered to this larger diameter tube. What's the reason for this? Is there any reason I can't make the coil from the larger diameter tube and skip the soldering of a smaller diameter coil into it?
  14. Forging a Teacher's Key Ring

    So I've started on this, and thought I'd respond to some of the comments. I didn't think the difference in weight would be that remarkable since we're talking about a finish diameter of 0.25". However, I just went to an online calculator, and it appears that mild steel is less dense than brass, so weight is going to be a non-issue (steel will be 12 oz and brass would be 13 oz). Why not start with 3/8" round? Because then I'm just giving it a faux finish by giving it hammer marks. I want to forge this entirely from start to finish. That's kind of the point of the exercise. These things progress slowly, since I've got small kids at home and not a lot of spare time. I am a typical office worker, except that I work remotely, so most of my time forging is on boring conference calls when I've said my part and I just need to listen to the call but can otherwise be on mute. So I get 15 or 20 minutes at a time. I'll take some pics in a bit, but I've started by forging the leaf shape, the stem, and have begun reforging the 3/8 square down. I think I'm going to go closer to 1/4, maybe 5/16. These are all estimates, by the way, I'm not expecting to run calipers along it.
  15. The Colombian vise and 14” rr track are worth haggling over. Be sure to look at the improvised anvils thread to see how best to mount it. Note that the vise is a good brand but it’s not a blacksmiths vise. It won’t take pounding on like a leg vise.