Hans Richter

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About Hans Richter

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/09/1968

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    Metal work, welding consult, safety at work, workshop

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  1. Made a Forge, Doesn't Work

    Welcome Doug, congrats with your first attempt to build a gas forge. It tucks me 25 years and a lot of preparations to build my first gas forge. Results in wrong set up burners, too big cask and the burners not strong another in the first place. The forge cask become a nice flower tray in my backyard. Thanks to curmudgeons like Frosty & Co. I’m on the right track now. Please read some of the welding threats on IFI to, regarding MIG amperage, wire speed and shielding gasses. Good luck, Hans
  2. What Anvil is most common in your area for sale?

    Peddinghaus, Peddinghaus ...............................................and yes Peddinghaus And not to forget a lot of Chinees rubbish
  3. It followed me home

    Hi Meadowgrove, the last of your pictures (‘sliding bearing’) is a wagon of a linear conduction. Together with a piece of fitting rail it is a very precious and expensive possession. I used a smaller version 'followed me home' as the hart of my power hammer to guide the ram up and down. The linear conduction is very strong and precisely in compression with many DIY conductors made for a straight guiding, sliding and greasing of the hammer ram with his upper dice running against the dice below. In my opinion it’s a pity to use the spheres for other humble purposes Cheers, Hans
  4. Shop safety issue

    xxxxxx........, why did not I think of it myself? I have a snack bar next to my door. Thanks Frosty, think especially the fish & chips oil will give an extra dimension to the final product
  5. Shop safety issue

    Gents, thanks for your nice replies For the sporadic times I quench the sporadic knifes I make from 13CrMo I use (outside the shop) a stand-up 3in steel pipe filled with heavy used motor oil on a pedestal. Use the method of Archimedes, like describe in the threat before, to see how much oil my work piece will drive off to avoid spoiling and overflow. Do everything with a piece of fire retardant blanket and powder extinguisher standby. Chisels, hammers and punches from C45 I generally harden with water after annealing, short quenching (in water) and using the rest heat together with the tempering colours traveling to the tips, cutting edges and work surfaces. Ended up with a final quench after the blue tempering colour reach her final position (tips, cutting edges and work surfaces). So I have a hard workface (50-62HRC) and an relative soft tool body to absorb the mechanical stress. About the volume contains of extinguishers, please be aware that a 1gal extinguisher is good for 12(!) seconds spray time then he is empty. Know from my experience in petrochemical industry that at least a 3gal ext. + a safety guard have to stand by during welding activity’s. Have no experience with antifreeze at all, fill always a fresh bucket 3gal water in garage or house witch I need for cool down the workpiece, keep the heat of the coal fire in place –or in case of emergency (fire on solid materials). Bye, Hans
  6. Shop safety issue

    Gents, please find attached link to the different extinguisher types for the different types of burning materials. As you see you can’t use every type for each stuff. http://memicsafety.typepad.com/memic_safety_blog/2008/12/the-abcds-of-fire-extinguishers.html -If you try to extinguish an oil fire (also fry pan at home) with water (water/some foam extinguishers) you will get a hydrogen explosion -If you try to extinguish an electric fire caused by short cut on your electric installation with water (water/some foam extinguishers) you can be electrocuted. -If you try to extinguish an fire on liquid metals like brass or bronze involved, with water (water/some foam extinguishers) you will get a hydrogen explosion -If you try to extinguish any fire in a confined space without/less on ventilation and with a CO2 or halon extinguisher you can suffocate because of lack on air/oxygen The best type of extinguisher for many types of fires is an powder extinguisher (also the cheapest ext. –beside of the DIY’s refillables), but think twice before you used tem, the powder is very corrosive to wiring, and many and other components and cause a lot on extra damage ones the fire is extinguished. Next to the extinguishers I have a fire blanket in shop and kitchen to, to be able to suffocate the flames off a starting fire and my wife and I are practical trained by FA & FF courses to use is. The shelf life of fire extinguishers in the EU expires after 10 years and extinguishers in public buildings and companies must be checked annually by an inspection body. Yes I know, many of the lecturers know about above mentioned information and I aim on the ones they didn’t know so well. Have a nice day. Cheers, Han
  7. Herr Slag, (how t.h. do you know I’m actually German) Will wait for this moment, to get another vice for the shop. Check the net for it (lord Darwin). Till then looking forward to a big hammer in tomorrow and Sunday nearby. Enjoy your weekend. Cheers, Hans
  8. Gents, It feels so strange to me, after the enormous publicity of FIF. On one side I’m very grateful about the attention the old profession of (blade)smiting got now, and also adoration of the ones exercising it for the last decades. On the other side I’m worried about the consequences. Which are: -a huge increase of the prices of second-hand blacksmith equipment since then -a serious danger to people and there a round them, start it without any knowledge of the basic principles (temperatures, materials, emissions, consequences etc.) Guy’s without any knowledge, from all different professions, make their first attempt as an blacksmith with lack on training, safety behaviour and common sense. We will see where its end. Waiting for the first episode of ‘Folded with origami’ (FWO) but even than -the sharp paper age “It will kill” (Doug Marcaida) Wish you a nice WE.
  9. Power Hammer Base Pad

    There are no spareparts you can order at KUHN???? If not, I used some thick pieces of textile re-enforced used conveyor belts (several layers) Let your thinks beat
  10. Gents, it's finally works -buy a new charger for about 40 bucks (probably from China) but with Amp-meter and selection switch for 5 till 20 Amps and 20 till 80. There is also an external fuse easy to change if overloaded. Very curious wat I will find tomorrow morning. However the rust is floating and the bubbles rise up. Dave keep the life 'sparkling' so there is no need on hair spray or a pacemaker Cheers, Hans
  11. What Did You do in the Shop Today?

    Pimped the other two SS 316 Ti burners with an orifice of #60 instead of #73 and supply them with a #60 pressured air injection (MIG-tip). Now they powerful enough to reach the temperatures on a second (brass, bronze or copper) melting furnace (maybe for sale) and the two gas forges I intend to use for damast welding. And YES I still use the TÜV- approved gas components like torch and connectors of the humble ‘weed’-burners instead of the galvanised 110lbn/in stuff from the local pluming shop. Do this to avoid damage on the rubber hoses and valves by crawling up heat to hoses and valves after shut down the devices. Any tips for assembling a simple damast packet are more than welcome. Cheers, Hans
  12. It followed me home

    B.t.w. this porous block and the acetone is also the reason to transport and use acetylene cylinders always in a vertical position and never lay down.
  13. I was curious about the possibilities and the low aggressive method (no solvents, no acids) and tried to build my own de- rusting apparatus. Unfortunately the battery charger (motorcycle) turned out as not powerful enough. Build a cathode cage from rebar and start with a couple recovered raw horse shoes. Looking for a more powerful charger now on second hand sites. Greetings, Hans
  14. Congratulation Stich, wish you many happy forging hours with the new machine. Just get a Deja’vu, I also ask the boss at home to do the paint job. Maybe another tip, be aware that the dices (and you) can get hurt if you let them run ‘cold’ against each other. I usually try them out with some wood or a piece of rubber conveyor belt between them. Even when I not use the hammer I always have a wooden block between them. The dices are holy to me. Got two sets of dices and several hardy tools and able to do almost everything with them. Just busy to build some fuller tools to forge repeating pieces like balls, rosettes and leafs. Enjoy your hammer. Cheers, Hans
  15. African wood

    Hi Pr3ssure, If I look to the structure of the wood it looks like interlocked wood grain with crossing fibres like many long growing African trees have (to many sorts to define your 3x3 posts). It have not the long diagonal wood grain like ash or beech you normally use for many kind of handles. Ash or beech will act like a spring and absorb the shock of the hammer beats to your wrist. Interlock wood grain is very decorative ones polished and furnished but will not absorb shocks. There is another thing you have an eye on. If the wood ones used for packaging and transportation and came by shipping from Africa it must be compliant to the IPPC regulations and should be debarked and heat treaded or gas treaded by Methyl bromide (!). They do/require this to avoid migration of agriculture quarantine pests, termites, funguses and plant diseases. See links below. In your case -the posts are debarked and stored/air kiln for quit a long time that eventual leftovers of MB are long gone, but reconsider the use of the wood for hammer handles. Ware gloves during working on the wood because my experience after working with Wenge, Mahony en Azobe (fantastic wood with interlocked wood grain) result very often in annoying little infections on my hands caused by wood splinters. Have a good WE, and fun with your exotic wood source. Hans (The ‘Work safety pope’) https://www.ippc.int/largefiles/adopted_ISPMs_previousversions/en/ISPM_15_2009_En_2009-04-23.pdf http://www.ultimatetermitecontrol.com/methyl-bromide-fumigation/