Judson Yaggy

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Everything posted by Judson Yaggy

  1. Yup! I've tuned rubber on my lathe after freezing solid. Work fast.
  2. Up here near Canada I use ATF in the cold season and 30W non-detergent in the summer. You can probably skip the cold weather option! Whatever you use, use a lot. Mechanicals were intended to be drippy, it helps flush out any crud that gets in.
  3. We should probably move this to the power hammer section. The lowest of the linkage arms, the toggles that connect to the tup, should be close to horizontal at rest. Yours are out of spec. No hammer can ever get to truly horizontal but the closer the better. Upping the tension will pull those arms closer to ideal. If that doesn't do it, the rubber may be tired. I know I would be after almost 100 years! The rubber is the spring, if tightening doesn't change anything then the spring is worn out. There are threads here on IFI and other places about replacing rubber on Bradleys. As a stop-gap you could rotate the rubbers 180 degrees, they are slightly wider and less fatigued at the bottom of the rubber due to the inherent geometry. From the photos the babbit in the lineshaft portion looks ok, just a little scoring. The leveling and alignment bolts are fairly common on old lineshaft stuff. Like you said, probably just overtightened. The worn out brake is a problem. These were designed to function with a factory brake, as were all industrial grade mechanicals. Lack of a brake is one of the reasons why Little Giants are considered farmer not industrial grade. Definitely fix that. Tune up the brake, tune up the springs, and go to town!
  4. Old Crew, can you show us a picture of the linkages square from the front side of the hammer? I have a Kayne&Roach which has a very similar linkage, perhaps I could help out with spring tension if I could see the positions of the arms. Jennifer, you can adjust spring tension on these, the nuts on the outside of the rubbers can be cranked down to increase compression. I would make the drive belt nice and tight, no slip obviously. Then I would adjust slack belt tension so the hammer just barely cranks over with your foot off the treadle. Then tighten the brake band till that overcomes the slack belt. Be sure that the brake is fully disengaged when you stomp the treadle. These are very well designed and built hammers, you should be able to get everything from single slow kissing blows to single hard blows to full on metal munching if everything is adjusted correctly.
  5. I make a lot of tongs, both for sale and for prizes when I run the New England Blacksmiths forging competitions. It really does make a noticeable, functional difference to have tongs matched to your handedness. 95% of what I make are right handed, the remaining fall into the scrolling tongs or power hammer tongs categories as noted above. Power hammer tongs in particular get used in either or both hands at the same time. Once in a blue moon someone asks for leftie tongs and I actually find them more challenging to make well as my muscle memory is so used to cranking out righties!
  6. I should add that Fisher has been out of business for 50 years or so. You are not going to find a stash of NOS parts. But we here will give advise and comments for the low low price of posting photos of your tools! We love photos!
  7. The legs on my #4s just screw into the casting. Making a leg should be as simple as threading the end of a round bar of the appropriate size. Even if you don't have a die set, this is something your local machine or fab shop should be able to do with their eyes closed.
  8. Stay home folks. Don't let ANYTHING follow you home. Sucks I know, I let a nice PW anvil on Craigslist 2 towns over get away because my father in law who lives with us is pushing 80 with a heart condition is in the high risk category.
  9. Sherman blunted all the horns! Citations needed before suggesting that purposeful abuse was more likely than the very common exercise of using the tip to enlarge an eye or turn a small curve, weld a whatnot, use it as a small fuller. We all miss sometimes, I suggest that in 100 or 200 years of 12 hours a day 6 days a week use mis-strikes happened frequently. As modern smiths we underestimate wildly how often an anvil in a production shop was struck. 2000 times a day? 10,00? With strikers? No wonder we see worn tools! Also some anvils were made with blunter horns, look at some of the German anvils. Bicks are bouncy, lack mass, and inefficient for forging. They do work well for some operations, but given the choice I'll work over the tip of the horn any day. And would fire/kick out of the shop any apprentice or journeyperson who purposely degraded a well made tool.
  10. Don't forget that they were an agricultural tool, and mostly made for use by slaves or subsistence farmers. They would have been made of mostly wrought iron the cheapest way possible (forge welded, even the eye) and then used, remade, used again, etc. Surviving historical pieces are mostly worn out! Originals were probably bigger before wear. Unrelated note, those are my favorite kind of tongs!
  11. Russian made cast anvil. Used to be sold thru Harbor Freight or Northern Tool, 10 years ago or more. Unavailable now, the closest current alternative is the Chinese made Acciaio.
  12. Look closely at how the ram shuckles back and forth on impact. That and the rattly clack of linkages says things are moving in directions they shouldn't.
  13. When that thing lets go it will be exciting! And it will let go, all that looseness in the ram is going to be putting sideways loads in unexpected places.
  14. Aw shucks John, I'm blushing! Thanks. Come on back for round 2 anytime.
  15. If you are ever in Vermont, I would like to invite you to my shop to run both air and antique mechanical hammers side by side.
  16. That tong chart is from over 100 years ago when tongs were being made from wrought iron. Largely irrelevant for modern makers who are using A 36 or 1045 or 4140... Even our modern basic grade of steel (A 36) is far stronger than wrought, so functional tongs can be made from much thinner cross sections.
  17. Nice cone. Sometimes they are marked with lettering down the inside of the tong groove. If I recall, some of the Greenfield, MA made ones were that way. If no makings (like yours) best bet is searches of the advertisements from old trade journals to look for matches.
  18. How is the rebound? Very interesting. Base looks like late 19th to mid 20th c American maker anvil. But the big step from face to horn and thick heel indicates aftermarket modification, but that modification is old and worn to the degree that the face shows sway. The seam looks like a forge weld rather than an electric weld. My vote is for an antique factory repair where they forge welded on a new face plate. Period literature says some anvil makers offered repair services. Can you show us more pics of the face and weld seam?
  19. Look into making a tire hammer (google Clay Spencer Tire Hammer) rather than putting similar effort into a less efficient design. There are hundreds if not thousands of tire hammers out there now, and are a proven design that you can purchase complete plans for. Many ABANA affiliates even have group builds that you can buy into. Probably a little more expensive than a thing made from wood, but far more economical in the long run.
  20. It makes no difference, assuming of course that the anvil mass is caped with appropriately hardened alloy dies. So save your money, hot rolled 1018/A36 is fine. Do try and get above the 10:1 tup/anvil ratio though!
  21. Of course and indeed. But to the original question of this thread, Oxy/fuel is not a great heat source for forging because the temperature of the flame can transfer energy into the surface of the steel faster than the steel's thermal transference can convey that heat to the center of the work piece.
  22. Met up with the other members of the Farm/Practical Blacksmithing demo team for the ABANA 2020 conference in Saratoga, NY in June. Google it. We've been meeting up in our shops around New England pretty much every month to work out our demo. This time we were at Lucien Avery's shop in Hardwick, VT. Also present were myself, Joel Tripp, Dereck Glasser, and Med Chandler. Each of us have a specific focus to our blacksmithing, and will lead the others in our group thru projects during the various demo times during the conference. We mostly worked on Lucien's part today namely carving tools, but also covered a little of Dereck's demo of German style scroll and leaf work. IMG_4314.mov IMG_4313.mov
  23. It does matter to some extent. Oxy fuel heat sources can heat a piece so quickly that the outer "skin" can reach forging temps or even burn before the core is at working temperature. This is especially true with bigger pieces. Read up on soak times used in industry.
  24. Ha! -14 deg F here this morning. That's below 0. Slack tub is thawed thou because it's between the woodstock and the forge!