Show me your Bottle Openers!

[GrumpyBiker]

So it’s not the object, just words that were the problem.....

 

LoL, glad thats all sorted out.

I’ll save the G stuff for you & your group in the future & be sure to choose the most PC descriptions.

[VaughnT]

Very nice work, Grumpy.

Looking at those openers, my very first thought was that they looked like neck ties.  It was only all this talk about weapons that made me see them as possible blades, and even then my first reaction was "Cool, those would be great Kiradashi for woodworkers!"

Either way you cut it, that's some nice work and you could market them to cabinet makers or businessmen.

[Ben Hoover]

Bottle openers One and Two side by side.  As well as a solo of #2.  I am working on improving.  Any critique or advice is appreciated.

[JHCC]

Definitely headed in the right direction. I have three suggestions: pay attention to keeping the width of the ring consistent, make the taper between the skull and the business end a bit more symmetrical, and get a butcher block/farrier’s brush to scrub off the scale as you work. Attention to detail will definitely pay off. 

[Ben Hoover]

Thanks JHCC.  I am working on those items.  One question?  I've heard everything from 3/4 inch to 1 inch for the opener.  Is there actually a correct answer?

[JHCC]

I usually drift my openers with a 1-1/8” pin that Lou L gave me a while back. If I can’t find it, I’ll eyeball something similar and check it against an old Coke bottle I keep on hand for just such an occasion. 

[Ben Hoover]

I've been doing 3/4 of an inch, and that is tight.  I have a one inch that I will see if I can form into a drift today and give it a go.  Thanks.

[Latticino]

Ben,

Simple round drifts are pretty easy to make.  Just do a standard short square/octagon/round taper on each side of the stock, a little hot rasping or grinding on the struck end, and you are good to go.  Medium carbon steel will last longer, but for a 1" drift mild should also be fine.  Make sure you work it with the forging heat soaked all the way into the interior of the stock for efficiency and avoidance of fishmouth.

[ThomasPowers]

I shared my forge with another smith and he made the holes in his bottle openers "to the size of a US quarter".  I'm thinking of making one of my bullpins to the size I like to make it easier/faster to do them.

 

[JHCC]

The official diameter of a US quarter is 0.955"/24.26 mm. So, if that's the dimension of a quarter hole, a whole hole is 3.82"/97.04 mm.

[ausfire]

I use a drift tapered both ends with a 20mm diameter. When it drives though, you know the size is correct. Saves guessing.

 If you want to straighten bottle opener #1, a cone mandrel in the hardy hole works well, or at a pinch, around the horn of the anvil. Once you get a set procedure for these things, you will be turning them out consistently. The more you practise the quicker you will be.

[ThomasPowers]

I've made mandrels for the hardy hole from bull pins---structural steel alignment pins; generally tough stuff and I try to buy them whenever I find them US$5 or cheaper.

[Mark Ling]

[arkie]

LBS, those are kool!  Your work is neat and smooth.

[Cincinnatus]

Nice job on the wrench/bottle openers.

[Mark Ling]

Thanks y'all. 

                 Littleblacksmith 

[Morlock]

 Thank you for this photo. For years a tiny part of my brain has wondered how they go about making those nifty suckers, just not hard enough to ever bother investigating. This makes it all clear.

[Thad]

Finished this one with stabilized maple burl

[olydemon]

Spent some time this weekend making openers... I feel like I'm finally getting better at even(ish) loops and cap hooks. Each opener I make gets tested by holding a full bottle by the cap.

L to R-

Random pattern from 3/16 x 3/4 scrap.

5/8 wrench with a twist.

Old thick file.

Random beach salvaged bolt from old piers, possibly wrought iron (according to the person who gifted the material).

[ausfire]

Great ideas. I really like the twisted spanner. So was the business end a ring, or was the loop formed from the shaft of the spanner? It doesn't look thick enough to provide the mass, so I'm thinking it must have been a ring/open end spanner.

And that's how I test mine, too. No need to open them  … unless you're thirsty.

[tkunkel]

Olydemon,

Nice variety of openers.  I like the curved handles and the chisel work.

Tom

[olydemon]

On 11/19/2018 at 6:02 AM, ausfire said:

Great ideas. I really like the twisted spanner. So was the business end a ring, or was the loop formed from the shaft of the spanner? It doesn't look thick enough to provide the mass, so I'm thinking it must have been a ring/open end spanner.

And that's how I test mine, too. No need to open them  … unless you're thirsty.

 The other end was the box end. I was worried the teeth would make it crack when drawing out the ring.

On 11/19/2018 at 9:07 AM, tkunkel said:

Nice variety of openers.  I like the curved handles and the chisel work.

Thank you! I'm hoping my wife can sell them at her craft table coming up for the holidays. I've given her pendants and leaved to sell with little luck. I think I need something practical to sell, hopefully to the bored husbands dragged out to craft bazaars.

[Reeltree]

Made a couple new drifts, perfer the 3/4" than the 1".  Will give the 1" a try on thicker stock and see what happens

[Reeltree]

To get the most out of your drinking experience,

" Pop the top on a Full Moon"

[GrumpyBiker]

I was able to get three more openers finished today.
A large green layered Micarta with a lanyard pin (never used these before) ,
A smaller black layered Micarta “ice breaker” opener and a oak handled one.