GrumpyBiker

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About GrumpyBiker

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    N.Central Ohio
  • Interests
    Harley's , woodcarving , custom firearms & motorhoming
    State Prison Guard since 1996

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  1. Finished up the cleaning on the swage block . Ready to put it back to work .
  2. I know but the pitting was so deep , I think I get why it was only $150
  3. A number of items. I started with the scale / paint removal device used for getting paint off metal. I found it works great for removing the loose dirt & flaking rust. If going for a more polished surface I then go to the angle grinder to get the heavy rust off & remove the tops of the heavily pitted surface. Then move from the grinding disk to the Flap pad sanding disks starting with a 60gr and down to 120gr . If I don’t want a shiny surface I skip the angle grinder completely and go to the fiber wire attachments for the drill. Harbor freight has these, orange is course , blue is fine grit. After that I go to the wire brush attachments in the drill. I use die grinder bits in the drill to reshape the concave parts on the sides. I have 6 hours into it so far. I expect 4-5 more as I prefer to go slow & light. Mistakes are smaller & easier to fix when I don’t try to do it all in a couple hours. This portion is almost don’t.
  4. Well it turned out to weight 102lbs. $1.47 per pound. 3”x12”x12”
  5. Here it is. I suppose I could do worse for $150
  6. For my use it’s the concave shapes on the edge that I’d be using most and at that price it’s equal to buying 3.5 hardy tools with a few of those shapes. But it’ll take up more space than hardy tools.... I’m kinda stumped.
  7. I found an old swage Block but all the holes in it are round, none of them are square. Is that unusual & is it something I should be concerned with. Its 2.75” thick , 75-80lbs & $150 Would it be worth it at $2 per lbs even without the square Hardy’s? Condition is fair to good. Needs cleaned up but nothing broken. I know, I should have taken a pic but I’m considering stopping back by. Opinions needed.
  8. Anyone here use / make a solid working end nail header vs a concave (hollow underside) header ? I’ve seen a couple different versions but I know it’ll be a longer process making one instead of the quick & easy flat style I have. I’ll be making a couple this Fall and am looking for and appreciate the input and advice.
  9. What would you all say is the best thickness for the working end of the header? The concave portion in particular. I don’t want to go to thin & have it begin to collapse. I know it doesn’t receive any heavy hammering but I want it to last years & not have to mess with it once it’s right.
  10. I like the bulge , is that part forge welded on? Or Forged that way from the get go?
  11. I’m interested in seeing what style & type of headers everyone has and what size nails you guys have found sells best ! Also if you have a technique that works best for you for making them I’d love to hear it ! This one is 1/4”, I needed a larger one.
  12. My Blacksmithing tools are in my will going to my county’s historical society. We have no kids or family that’s interested in it other than what they’re going to get from my shop for Xmas .