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Show me your anvil stands


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nothing all that amazing about this but its quick to take apart i made up the base out of old 2x8s that a glued and screwed together then rand a few large bolts through as well
i traced out the anvils footprint and routed out a socket for it, i made it a hair larger so that i had room for a strip of inner tube rubber between the wood and the anvil this makes for a very tight fit and cuts down on the ringing
the main reason for doing this is the ease of taking the 2 apart as i take this anvil with me now and then and so far this has worked quite nicely and as always its nice make something up out of "free material"
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Greens, I'm not sure I like that mix, but I can see how it might be handy in a classroom setting where you have multiple people needing the same gear. Probably work well for a farrier, too.

Looking at your anvil and stand, I would get rid of the 1x6" lumber on the bottom and turn the section of track so that it's on end. This will give you the most mass under the hammer as possible (and you only really need a bit of steel directly under the hammer), cutting down on the noise dramatically while increasing the performance of the track section as an anvil.

Then, you would have room to mount that nice Rock vice you have in the background. I could see the combo being rather handy for light smithing needs, especially if room is at a premium.

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Here are a few pictures of my 84 lb Hay Budden anvil attached to a large locus stump. The stump is buried 22" in the ground. I used 2 - 3/8" x 4" lag screws to secure it. Very solid now. As you can see from the photos, the anvil had two 3/8" hole in the base already. Very handy when securing it to the stump.

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Phil,

This is my stand I built for my new 242-lbs Papa Rino Anvil "http://www.incandescent-iron.com/rhan.html"
I have seen a lot of stands made of metal and people would always take flat 1/2" Plate and welt loops and flat 1/2" X 3/16" Stock on edge to hold tongs, hammers and hardie hole tools, this works but a lot of stands have loops missing cause they fell off or got tore of threw use or a bad weld.
So I figured I wanted to make a stand that one guy could lift 50-70bls, had a large shelf, adjustable feet, would only have 10-12 pieces to weld and would not have missing loops after using the stand for a year or two. I also wanted to be able to sell the stand or the top plate or make different configurations.
So I drafted up a top plate and had 15 of the plasma cut at a shop.
A guy can take the top plate and weld up any configuration he wants to; 3-4 legs, shelf or no shelf…… whatever suits him
Below is my preference a wide footed stand with a large shelf. I like to put a chunk off conveyor bet or hard rubber mat under my anvil, I also fill the legs with spray foam.

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Very nice. I do wish I had access to that kind of equipment.

Phil


I don't own the cutter, i had a fab shop cut them out if you would like a top plate i could find out the shipping and i sell you one for my cutting cost and shipping. My cost is around $50.00 to have them cut out of 1/2" plate.
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I posted earlier in this thread, but now I have the other 2 brothers to that stand, so I thought I would show those. they both have pivoting tables that swing 90 degrees around the anvil, very convenient, you can see I keep one in use, it has a 160 something lb. peter wright on it, my first anvil, and it still is my favorite,I have just placed an early 1800s colonial anvil on the other one, i got at an auction for a killer price, it has yet to be bolted down. post-4158-0-82841300-1336668064_thumb.jppost-4158-0-16124600-1336668066_thumb.jppost-4158-0-43321700-1336668067_thumb.jppost-4158-0-62605700-1336668068_thumb.jp

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Avadon. that is a piece of art. I would have that anvil and stand in my living room as an art piece.. er if I could afford it and lived alone... that is the better half would some how manage to place it where the sun don't shine (and I'm not talking about the basement) if I did.

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Daniel, That is one beautiful stand. I may steal the leather idea for my stand. Even if I do, it will not be as good looking though. Here is mine, just finished building it about an hour ago. Will mount the anvil in a few days, once I have another free minute.

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The longer 2x4's will have holes or slots in them for tools. All of the materials I have collected for free or close to it over the past couple of months.

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here is my latest anvil and standpost-12147-0-96397200-1337522994_thumb.j
the anvil is a 10" by 10" 200lb chunk of i don't know what. it has a 3" long x 7" round base that fits into the hole i cut in the top plate of the stand.
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the stand is a piece of i don't know what, but is 7" tall by 16" round by 2.5" thick the top plate is 5/8 inch thick, the legs are 2.5" heavy wall tube just need feet on them. the stand is weighing in at 165lb alone. the anvil is set at 26" off the ground. will make a great striking anvil. i just need to find something for a 1" hardy hole. the machine shop here wants $200 to put a 1" hole down the center(round) $350 to put a 1" square hole down the center.

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These are my homemade stands, The last 2 are on my 250lb Hay Budden and the first one has my 126lb HB. I've used the heaviest pipe I could find which was all at least 1/4in thick walled. The tops are 3x3 angle, 1/4in thick. I use those cheap pads under the stand to actually steady them. The stands and anvils compress the pads and sort of act like glue, Of course it can get kind of exciting when you drop a piece of red iron on one, Anywho it makes you stay aware of your grip on the tongs.In the worst case it just get real smokey for a few minutes.

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That's a question that has puzzled me since I got it. I've tried everything to get a complete read on the printing but it is too worn off.
I figured that its probably a hardware company stamping because the "Our Best" is the only thing that is clear. I was sort of hoping someone else on
ifi would know what it says. I'll post the question later in the anvils section and see what comes.

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