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I Forge Iron

gaylan veater

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About gaylan veater

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    American Fork, Utah
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Mountain Man Rendezvous and Hunting


  • Location
    American Fork Utah
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Mountain Men and Hunting
  • Occupation
    Auto Mechanic

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  1. So the way I shimmed the sides was I cut the sides of a gallon jug into strips that went the full length of the upright. On mine that worked just right there is now movement and the belt tensioner pushes down and comes back up no problem. My spring is about 40lbs with the belt on.I did put some dry graphite on the plastic before I installed them. So my bottom tube of the riser is 10’’ , the riser that goes in that tube comes up to the top 16’’ with the belt in place. From the base plate to the top of my tensioner pulley is 15. 1/2’’. I used a long straight edge to line up all the pulleys.
  2. Yes I did install plastic shims on 2 sides to take up the little bit of sloop. But the fact is mine also has 2 crowned pulleys as a lot of people said would cause problems. All I know is this was my first build also. I did make sure that all the pulleys line up because that can be critical as far as tracking goes. This information is only from my own experience as not to disagree with anyone else. Thanks, Gaylan
  3. Here is my set up very similar to your build, mine has 2 crowned wheels and I have had no issues with tracking. Sorry I don’t know why it didn’t load my video. Maybe it will load this picture. Here is another picture.
  4. Hi All, I would agree with all has been said. One thing that I remember about Henry Wright he was a brother to Peter Wright and went out on his own to make anvils. I also think that his is marked in the English weight of 206 would be 230lbs. In my opinion it is useable but a little rough for sure not worth the amount asking. If it does pass the rebound test I would offer $400 to $450 and give the owner the reasons why. Just my 2cents!
  5. For all those interested we will be having our January Meeting Workshop January 12th 2019. We will be teaching how to make a wizard bottle opener as per Mark Aspery style. Teachers will be Lonnie Jensen and Gaylan Veater. For more information go to gbsmiths.com
  6. I just left them mild. They seem to grip the forged metal better IMO.
  7. Thanks, As a note I used mild steel. If you use 4140 it will be a lot harder to upset but possible. Good luck with the experience. I had a lot of fun and learned a lot as always.
  8. Hi All, I made this small vice several years ago. My reason was also for the experience and I wanted one that would fit in my hardy hole to take with me when I did demos. I started with a piece of 1” square bar and I slowly upset the end until I had a good 4” face that part took some time and patience. I knew it wouldn’t get done quick so I just went with the experience. After the jaws were formed Ibent them at the 90 degrees you could do them at less than that and adjust the jas face to match. I then decided how far down to make the hole for the screw box. I made a slot punch and knocked out the picked then drifted the hole to size. I used a screw from a welding clamp that was bend but the screw was still good and cut off the threaded part to use on the other end. I did not really take any measurements at the time I built it I just did it as I went. Here are some pictures.
  9. Hello Everyone, Just letting everyone know that The Bonneville Forge Council of Utah has had to change its name. Same great people with new members coming to every meeting. We are now Great Basin Blacksmith Guild and are on the a ABANA affiliate Thanks, Gaylan Veater
  10. I have some little ones I use them all the time for pulling needles when doing leather work. :) Gaylan
  11. Hi Harold, I would say that it takes about 3 sessions of about 2 and 1/2hrs of shop time. I like to work with about 4 boys at a time and I have 2 anvils set up for them only 1 boy working on each anvil at one time and the other 2 are watching or helping when the making of the tongs. I like to meet with them one night before shop time to go over the safety things and metallurgy questions. Also go over clothing that they should wear. I have had a few boys that start out a little slow and sometimes I have had to help them by holding the bottom of the hammer handle and with them holding the hammer just above my hand and guide them to hit metal in the right place. Usually once or twice of help like this they are off and going and do pretty good after that. I will not pass any boy if he has not completed all the requirements they do not have to look like a pro has done them but I have been please at how well they do with only a small amount of time. I can see improvement each time they come. I usually have them come once a week for 3 weeks in row. I have done it before on one saturday with the safety and metallurgy question done before but it is a long day. These is usually done because of travel time being far away from my shop to their home. I have never had any boys quit or get frustrated in fact I hear all the time from the leaders and Eagle commissioners that always ask the boys what their favorite merit badge was if they had took the metal working with the blacksmithing option it has always be their favorite.
  12. Hi All, These are my toughts on the Metal Working Merit Badge for the Boy Scouts of America. I have been teaching scouts at my place off and on for about 10years or so now. My experience has been great with this new generation coming up. This is how I have gone about teaching to the young men. I usually meet with their leaders and explain everything that will need to happen for them to complete this merit badge. I inform them that this can not be done in one meeting. I start by having handout of different things some of which is requirements from the book and make sure that they are done when we finish. I use a worksheet from BSA for the merit badge and use the things that pertain to the things for a blacksmith to teach and for the boys to do. We also go over the safety requirements and clothes they will have to wear. I had one boy show up with short pants and flipflops on I ask him if he remembered the safety clothes we talked about the week before he said he did but I sent him back home to change. I think the word got out cause I havent had any one else show up that way again. Once that is taken care of and as we start to learn about the forge and anvil etc I continually ask them question about parts of the anvil and other tools the blacksmith uses. I use a small flat piece of copper to show how to anneal it and also show them springback and hammer harding with that piece then each boy gets a piece to try for himself. Then I show them how they will draw a taper on a piece of round stock something with some carbon in it because it will become a center punch. I use ubolts from the newer Chevrolet truck as I work at a Chevrolet Dealer as a mechanic and when we install lift kits etc we have them left over. They seems to work really well range in size from 1/2'' to 3/4'' diameter. I straighten them out and cut off one side of threads that gives them a good handle so they do not need tongs at this point. After I do I demo of drawing a square taper. Then I let them try it watching very close so I can give instructions as needed but dont be to quick to correct them most of the time they will correct themselves. I explain during this that it took me some time to forge my first taper and dont worry about having to reheat 5 or 6 times. that seems to be the average for boys that for the most part have not ever picked up a hammer before. Once they have drawn the taper to a square I have them hand file the end on the diamond and It becomes a square center punch which is more visible for the blacksmith to see after his piece is heated up. Then I show them how to harden and temper back this new punch they have made. They all go home with a punch in hand and a piece of copper after the first session. The next meeting I have them make the set of Easy Tongs by Sean Conner can be found on anvilfire. I have the boys work in pairs or with a adult so everyone has a partner during which each on will help hold one side of the tong so the other end can be worked on by the boy. Once the tongs are riveted together. That completes a riveted project and a twist but they will do more twisting later. The tongs will take up another session. On the final session they will make some s hooks and or flint steels and put a twist in the s hooks so more drawing a taper I give the 1/4'' square bar for the s hooks and a piece fo 1/4'' spring steel for the flint steel about 6'' to 8'' inches I use old garage door springs for the flint steels. All of these things take care of the requirements for the merit badge. I am always asking questions to the boys during this of safety things and parts of the anvil and blacksmith tools. I also have a release form signed by the parents I use the one that the Boy Scouts Use. I have never had a problem with any parent and I have never had a boy get hurt. I think the key to this is having good adult leaders that watch what is going on all the time and only work as many boys at the anvil or forge as can safely do so. I encourage the fathers to come if they desire and have had to teach fathers or leaders at a later time as they also becoming envolved. As most blacksmiths will say there is many ways to get the same results. So this is only my way of teaching and I know it can be done in many many other ways. I hope this helps. I will be teaching another group of boys after the first of the year. Have a great time teaching these young men as they seem to want to learn so much. This is only one way to give to the future. My thoughts, Gaylan
  13. Hi All, I have completed my stand with the base. My legs a 2'' square solid bar with 3/4''feet and the base is 2 pieces of 3/4''welded together I cut and filed the 1&1/16'' hardy hole opening in the base and drilled the 5/8'' hole these are oversized so when the anvil is put on there will not be any hangup. Here is the pictures so far.
  14. thanks to all for the making of the video, pictures etc, I starting to get parts for a striking anvil back when Brian made his 2nd one before the Abana conference in SD. The video and pictures have made my process go alot easier. I am still working on mine ( my day job gets in the road most of the time ). I have legs cut and anvil cut to size 2.75'' by 5.25''by 14'' my base plate is going to be 1.5'' by 6''by 15'' I am getting the base ready at this time . Thanks for the encouragement to keep working at it. As I can see yours done looks great and the new hammer looks great also. I am sure Chase will always cherish that hammer and the day he came to help strike for it. Thanks again for sharing your journey. It was a pleasure to meet Brian and the 3 young smiths at Abana in SD. I got one of your hot cuts Dave it works wonderful.Keep up the good work!!! Gaylan
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