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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Daniel.85

  1. Yep its stalled for sure. yay life... Im getting out of the forging world, check the tailgate section. My brother still plans on working on the forges, its mostly his thing anyway, I was just the adviser/idea monkey so he knew what features blacksmiths would like, hes been traveling a lot for work lately so there's not been much time.
  2. I don't think you would have to worry about the boards cracking. As far as extra foot relief, that's just preference, I haven't felt the need to get any closer to my anvil. If you can secure it to the floor it will be much more stable. A few of the leather loops I did have popped off the rivets, probably because I used the wrong rivets for the thickness of the leather. The next one I build when my fontanini anvil comes in will have iron hardware around it for hanging the tools.
  3. Hey that would be cool! I hadn't though of using it to heat up a salt bath, very doable.
  4. Nope, unless you decide to lick it... Its just an oscillating magnetic field with lots of juice behind it.
  5. Very good point, although at this point I think it would take more work to not include those features. Josh only has to do the programming once, then it can be used on every one we build. Each system will have a display and features to monitor system/water temp, power, ect… The programing for the more detailed controls will just be part of that same system, if you wish to use it. The prototype model I've been using is a simple on/off with a foot pedal, its nice in some ways but it will melt anything if I leave it in for long. With the controls on the new versions you could have a larger oval coil with a few things heating while you forge and be able to limit to power so that it won't go past forging temps and start to burn or melt completely. Great for architectural work, doing multiples of the same thing, allowing non stop forging when rotating a few pieces in a large coil. There will be at least 3 different models as well, more info on that later.
  6. Thanks, it scoots around easy on the smooth floor but I wont need to move it really and I dont want it to move when I'm working so it will get anchored to the concrete.
  7. I recently acquired a fisher #4 vise(6-1/4" jaws, 120lbs) and built a new home for it. I used 3/4" thick plate for the top and bottom, 12x12 & 12x18, the legs are 3x4x1/4" tube filled with sand, all that comes to about 230lbs and right about 350lbs with the vise. Cutting the legs on the Grizz. "Milling" 1/2" Holes Marking holes for the top plate. This is my first big welding project(big for me anyway) my little mig is a little under powered so I did 3 passes, seemed to hold up well and I didn't think my welds were too terrible. "Mind the puddle not the spark" is what I had to keep telling myself. I would have used the stick welder but I have to get a new cord for it. Just over 50lbs of sand. The paint is a walnut color, it was still a bit wet and in the sunlight its more brown but in the shop its a nice dark brown not quite black, goes well with the old tools. The leg had a crappy plate welded to it already so I made a better one. Though I was too much of a noob to remember when I drilled all the holes, these were supposed to line up with threaded holes in the base but I accidently drilled them 1/2" instead of 27/64". These pins hold it really well since there was a lot of down force on the leg anyway after bolting the vise to the top plate. HEAVY and ready to anchor to the floor! There are 3 holes to use for anchoring, 2 in front and 1 you cant see that is in between the 2 back legs. I wanted a stand that would protect the screws as well, this seems to work.
  8. Yes, Kickstarter might be used. Induction workshops sound interesting, hadn't thought of that! There will be videos showing a walkthrough of the assembly as well.
  9. Daniel.85

    New tongs

    Francis, I think I agree with you, I have had a few issues when shaping the jaws because I have them too thick sometimes. Basically there is something about each part on them that I still want to tweak a bit, I'm guessing the only time that wont happen is when I'm so old that my main goal is just to not poop myself when I swing a hammer.
  10. Daniel.85

    New tongs

    Thanks. I thought about doing some with the scroll going out but I imagined it might dig into the palm of your hand too much, I'll try it on a pair next time I make some though.
  11. Daniel.85

    New tongs

    Most the shape is forged under the power hammer, I do a little cleaning up on the anvil and I shape the jaws in a swage. My "jig" for the jaws and boss is a 1" block with rounded edges lol, I plan on coming up with something a little better so I can get a cleaner and more consistent boss. I cleaned up that tennon tool I showed you before and it works a lot better now too. I need to work on my rivets as well, I don't have any special tools for them, just smash and peen.
  12. Daniel.85

    New tongs

    1/2" and 5/8" cold rolled round 1018. I'll use up to 1" round for when I make bigger tongs too. 1018 has been great so far, couple thousand feet of it through my shop and havnt had any defects, sometimes it even hardens to much to drill if I quench it too fast.
  13. Daniel.85

    New tongs

    Just trying a few new styles, I think Ive settled on the ones with the scrolled ends, little different look and really comfortable in the hand. 17" long, nice and springy, 3/8" round reigns. I'm ok with putting my stamp on these.
  14. All you gotta do is find 2 old Russian built microwaves and a ham radio, take all the parts out and assemble them backwards, then link them with flux capacitors and add a coil. Depending on the size of the microwaves you find, you should get about 1.21 jigawatts of power from your induction powered forge, enough to melt down a Chuck Norris roundhouse kick championship trophy belt. Please post pictures of your progress.
  15. Quick forum search of Tools to make hammers
  16. Ya that video was supposed to say 240v, my old shop was only running it on 120 and forgot that it would be the full 240 once plugged in to the new one. I changed the text in the video but couldn't edit my post here.
  17. The physical parts of the machine are simple, if you had them in front of you with instructions anyone could assemble it, the hard part has been redesigning the controls for this type of thing, that's my brothers area of expertise. The boards used so far have just been made at home at home. Once its set we can send it off and get them professionally made and then its just another part of the kit to attach, like buying a video card for your computer. Offering it as a "kit" would be a possible way to avoid any liabilities, then maybe offering a fee for "kit assembly" for someone that didn't want to do it. The last six months for me have included an move and new shop build, the last six months for my brother have included a job switch that required travel and endless conference calls. Its starting to settle now though and we just had a few long conversations about the next steps and getting back on track. I'm still using the prototype model in my shop and its held up surprisingly well for a year or so now, I'm sure Ive put a couple thousand heats through it so far, more than a couple now that I think about it even. I'm sorry if anyone feels we've drug this out forever, believe me Ive stayed on my brother, because as a blacksmith I want a one just as much as you guys! I cant really change the coils on the prototype, its a pain, so I cant heat more than 1-1/4" round. We feel that this has the possibility to be somewhat revolutionary in the metal world if done right, if you've used any induction forges before then you know why. Especially since nothing like this is available at a hobbyist price point. As soon the new one is done I will have videos on here of it.
  18. It wouldn't stay blue if you used it, temper colors can wear off. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Tempering_standards_used_in_blacksmithing.JPG
  19. A little bit, my brother is finishing up the last of the coding. I'm anxious to see it done too!
  20. I usually just say Im a blacksmith or I do some blacksmithing, just because its easier than explaining that nuances of the title every time. Ive been at it for 2 years and Im barely a metal smasher compared to some of the real blacksmiths out there.
  21. Not bad at all for a first set. Not sure what size material you started with but if you upset a few inches of one end just a little it will give you more material for the jaws.
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