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disclaimer not a pretty stand but it gets the job done
and think of it more as a wheel chair for a anvil with bad feet as this anvil sure dose have bad feet as i dug it up out of the dirt out in a woodshed so the stand came about from needing to attempt to get this anvil to stay upright lol
it has 2 wheels off the front and all 4 legs have one inch threaded rod in them that i can use to level the anvil as well as rugged rubber pats made out of stall mats
now if and when i get to make another stand for a new anvil it will most definitely be a tripod

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Here's my beginner's setup (read: newbie)- I've been making knives since '74, and a number of my customers have asked me to get into forging.
This appears to be a 100# Russian anvil, maybe one of the "Star" brand. It does have a hard face, only about 6mm. And no, it doesn't ring. It kinda goes ~whap!~ when you tap it. Okay for a beginner, and doesn't irritate the neighbors.
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I received a donation from one of our smiths when I had my new 224 lb anvil delivered the other day. The stand used to hold a swage block, then got modified to make a small bottle jack press (didn't work too well) and then it was stuck outside for many a year before I spotted it. Anyway, after slicing and dicing, adding some bits and welding it up, it has turned out to be a nice little stand. I have slipped a couple of slats of hardwood under the feet of the anvil but haven't got to use it yet. I will run a couple of struts between the legs and some tool holder rings down the track. A good bit of recycling and big money saver on material and welding rods.

Cheers -Rob
ABASA Secretary

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  • 2 months later...

this is my Anvil stand in my "in-the-making" workshop

it is pressure-treated 4x4's glued and screwed together it is 1,2meters tall, it has for a year soaked in waste oil + anti-fungal stuff mix

it is digged into the ground and cemented in, then the floor was cast around it with 15mm styrofoam around it so its not in direct contact with the floor.
then I did something that probably makes some of you want to bash my head in I DRILLED 4 14mm holes one in each of the feet on my anvil it cant get more securely fastened then that..
then with a 3mm layer of polymer caulking on the base I bolted it down with long 14mm lag-bolts
on one side i bolted down a 20mm thick steel plate for upsetting but might replace it if i find something thicker

it gives next to no ringing and has about 75% rebound
the anvil is a old 142KG WI body steel-faced from year 1905

here is a few pics

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i have a smaller anvil i will make a metal tripod for so I have one that i can move around when needed

cheers

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Tagg,
Good Start!
The people I admire most are the people who have very little to start with and
make do with what they have as they grow.

I would suggest that you just work at collecting your tools slow but sure.
First thing you know you will have a first class shop!

I enjoyed talking with you in the chat room the other night!

One other thing! " Please Work safe'.
Keep your mind on what you are doing at all times.
Think about all of the possibilities of what your doing and what could go wrong and then take steps to avoid a mishaps.
I think it would be hard to see out of a wooden eye! :(

I wish you the very best!!
Ted Throckmorton

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In general running the supports floor to anvil vertically takes out more bounce in the system than crisscrossing them, see the DC post right above yours for an example; but if you only have short pieces then whatever works is *best*. Crisscross stacking does make it easier to adjust the height to see what works for you too.

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Yeah, I would have done that to save work, but I do not have a chop-saw. aDoing the way you suggested would hve forced me to cut the beams perfectly square which was really difficult with my handsaw. So this was the best option for me.

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I guess my dirt floor is a help in that regard. Perfect squareness is not a requirement on the bottom and the top can be adjusted with a router to have a square bottomed pocket that the anvil sits in. (simple cut out shimmed to level and rout the interior...)

Actually what I have done for my anvils is: cut a large mine timber in half to make two "stumps" and bolt on handles to make loading them and unloading them easier, take a piece of 6x6 and bolt cross pieces on the base and drill/burn out a hole for my 25# medieval travel anvil, set 2 large anvils on a set of 3 bridge timbers bolted together (6' long so room at both ends for big anvils---found floating in an Ohio stream during a flood), I have 1 three leg metal stand I got in an IITH, and I have a quite large mine timber I hope to bury for my main shop anvil once I get the new extension set up to my liking. I'm still down one stump though as I picked up another teaching anvil... (Oh yes I have two stake anvils mounted in short stumps.)

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Anvil bounce is when the anvil bounces or when the hammer bounces on the anvil? The stand, nor the anvil bounce, but the hammer does bounce on the anvil.


The hammer bouncing on the anvil is rebound, very desirable. It sounds like you got it right since the anvil and the stand stay put.

Phil
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This is the stand I made for the anvil I just got. I made it out of what I had on hand, a bunch of 2x4's nailed together. Probably not the best long term solution, but it works for now, especially until I find the place where I'm going to keep it parked. The straps pieces of sheet metal I cut from an old microwave and nailed down.

http://s1125.photobu...nvilonstand.jpg

anvilonstand.jpg
EDIT: Yay! Thanks, DClaville!

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  • 3 weeks later...

ok , made this one up in two saturdays, one to make the stand , one to do the hammer rack,
still need to add feet to the base and some bracing to the legs.
base legs are what i had laying around, the anvil base is the backs of a set of forklift blades, 2 inch think!
took an hour to make each cut on my harbor freight band saw (poor blade) .

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I used to have a stand made of oak. BUt it was to small in diameter. I was in the mood to change and we had just cut down a sycamore tree and I had a piece of the right diameter. I got the chainsaw out and started to carve and level. I used my router and a large box type guide and slide plate to level it nicely. I should have taken pics of that. It's actually some tooling to make wide wood slabs level. If anyone is interested I can post that. BUt anyway here is my current stand. Sycamore is probably not the wood of choice. When I made this the Sycamore was alive and had just been cut down a few days before. The wood has split in several places but I am hoping they are "mostly" surface cracks. u can't see the cracks in the pics but they are there. This is a 275# anvil just for reference. So far it is solids and I am happy with it. Here tiz...

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