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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by pkrankow

  1. Apparently it can be brazed with a silver bearing filler. No personal experience, but exhausts should be below 500F so solder should hold up fine. Phil Mod note: Must have missed the part about guessing
  2. Draw a picture, keep it simple. Everything is similar triangles. The offset of the hinge creates a triangle that has the same angles as the rise of the gate. The rise of the gate is an imaginary triangle underneath the gate panel. Phil
  3. The repeated arc burn will damage your skin. It is the same as sunburn in how it can increase your chances for cancer, it can also cause premature aging. I had a pair of welding gloves that were a single thin layer of quite soft leather. The felt like driving gloves, and fit perfectly. I loved how they fit till they wore out. I haven't found a pair like them since, but I haven't looked very hard. My mistake was wearing them as a general work glove! Phil
  4. "Sunburn" from a welder arc flash is WAY worse than sunburn. Get some gloves and wear sleeves, same with your assistants. You may also want to cover your neck. Yes, PPE can be hot and uncomfortable, but there are selections that can be made to help with your climate. How's your back feel? That pose is not good for lifting, or staying still for very long, but if your back can take it then OK then...at least for now. Sawhorses are worth their weight in gold sometimes. They make the back feel better at the end of the day. It is a simple gate that looks good. Is the client happy? Phil
  5. If you have a means to SAW the rail (that is a power hacksaw, abrasive cutoff saw, or stock cutting bandsaw, not a hand saw, although determination will get you there...eventually) saw a few pieces about 1 inch thick, or the size of your hardy. You can then cut these down and/or reforge to make tooling. Phil
  6. You could make a part to slide over the square tube, take the handle/latch off and put the decorative element on. Phil
  7. A place to lay things that are not hot is a "cold" work bench. These items are cool enough to handle bare handed, they may be tools, completed items, or just a place to set something. Phil
  8. I bet most of the stoves he has used are set up this way. Most of the commercially produced stoves I have looked at are hinged on the right with the latch on the left. Phil
  9. Get a drum. 55 gallons of coal is right around 500# No one will walk off with it, you can put a board on top to keep it clean and dry. Use the drum with plywood as a "cold" work table. Phil
  10. Might be worth looking, lots of tools were produced in that time frame that became surplus. You might get lucky. Phil
  11. I find coil spring moves easily at the right temperature. When it gets stiff it is too cold, and still glowing. It requires a few normalization cycles to refine the grain prior to hardening. Too hot and it kicks off more than a spark or two, or crumbles. Start with more material than you need and DON'T BE AFRAID TO RUIN IT!!! Run it hotter and hotter until it misbehaves, then cut off the bad piece and try to get not quite that hot. Diagonal fitting hot-cuts with a tapered shank made from leaf spring are rather nice. the tool can be pretty ugly and work great still. With a curved top they can cant in the hardy before jamming and still be easy to use. They also fit different anvils since they just seat differently. Phil
  12. 1 inch walnut Remember that fines can be wet and used, so "too small" is just a handling inconvenience. The fire doesn't care so sweep them up! If your forge table is big enough you can coke up to baseball pieces and break the soft breeze coke off as needed...Of course this doesn't work if ALL the coal is that size, but for a few pieces it is easy. Phil
  13. Do remember that some of the candles are carried in the upper portion of the holder for procession and recession, and other times. Take this in account when applying decoration to the holder. You should be able to examine the candles and holders they are using. The socket for the paschal candle is probably 3 inches deep. Phil
  14. While $150 isn't astronomically high, try $50 unless the remaining anvil is rather near perfect. Also where are you? Here in Ohio anvils are pretty easy to find. In California the game is a little different. Phil
  15. If you don't have torch tip files (tiny wire files, usually in a set) get a set before opening this up. You may have trash or damage to the tip of the orifice. A little tip file can clean any trash inside the orifice out and make life nice. I had an interesting curl of flame inside the burner when I built my forge burners. A sharp edge is needed so the fuel gasses part from the nozzle and continue in the desired direction. Phil
  16. If you need to pay for the old parts, and a core charge is not involved, then something is fishy. I got a small pile of automotive coil springs. The problem with struts is the center shaft is hard chromed, and nothing special so they aren't worth all that much to risk dealing with chrome compounds in the fire. There is also the oil. The springs are about 7/16, or a metric equivalent, so while they are great for hand tools like punches and chisels, but not much good for bigger purposes. Free good steel is still free good steel. Phil
  17. Magnetic clamps affect the weld. The weld is moving electricity and creates its own magnetic field. Magnetic fields that interact create motion. When your weld gets near the magnet the arc will distort. Move your magnets after tack welding. Phil
  18. Did you look up high efficiency stove design so you can maximize your energy returns? Looking good! Phil
  19. pkrankow

    incomplete vise

    http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/28479-how-i-forged-a-new-spring-for-my-leg-vise/ Just use mild steel. You can adjust it cold then. Phil
  20. Start with a patent search for Fisher anvils and possibly a couple others. You can probably patent search on Vulcan too since the process was slightly different, but I don't know the names or company. Fisher did it first. Search here on IFI for posts from NJAnvilman who is the curator of the Fisher & Norris factory museum. Phil
  21. Some pictures would be welcome. The heel of the anvil, and the hardy hole are not as necessary as some want to believe. There is no arguing the handy nature of having a good anvil with all the features a London Pattern anvil has to offer though. There are many ways to substitute for a hardy hole, such as thick wall square tubing mounted upright to accept the tool, or making a bolster plate out of some plate steel. Phil
  22. So...what are the final dimensions of the opening? Phil
  23. Onan is out of business, and no new parts are being made. There should be plenty of parts available since just about everybody used Onan for decades, and common carburetor parts are likely the same as on other brands, or even the same entire carburetor as other brands (without looking up everything, kinda hard to know for sure though. Finding an old timer at a small engine repair place is the best bet here) All the same...don't loose any parts. You don't need the headache, and Onan parts are getting harder to find. If the float is cork, you may want to try sourcing a replacement (brass or plastic). Cork floats are sealed with shellac which is impervious to gasoline but washed off by alcohol. 10% alcohol in modern fuel wash the shellac off...you will quickly have the opposite problem of flooding. Phil
  24. Jet and float valve is plugged. Drop the carburetor bowl being very careful to not loose parts. Remove the float, flush the float valve and float valve seat, and jet(s) with plenty of carburetor cleaner. Reassemble. There may be varnish in the fuel tank coming free and proving a headache. The carb may also need a full rebuild. Running the engine is like an ultrasonic cleaner to the fuel tank and can break gunk free. Run the engine for at least 10 minutes, preferably 30+ minutes. If it stalls and acts the same way with the jet or float valve plugged up again, then you need to remove and clean the fuel tank since it has varnish build up in it. Use lacquer thinner and a known number of nuts, bb's, or similar to agitate. Plan to take a day or two to soak with agitation every few hours. If it stalls when fully hot and won't restart till almost cold then your coil is also bad. Phil
  25. The top top bar (yes, I said top top)is hooked in and acts as a spring mechanism to tension the blade. The bottom top bar pivots at the handle and pulls the blade tight. Ingenious design.
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