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Show me your anvil

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not gonna lie, got super lucky with this sodorfors find..

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 3.8k
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  • Not done yet but this was cut from 4" plate. Horn was roughed with a O/A torch the finished with a 7" zircon flap disc. Feet cut separate and will be severely welded ;)

  • This is a 80# piece of drop from cutting a hole in a steel plate. No one said an anvil has to have the standard anvil shape.

  • DocsMachine
    DocsMachine

    140-lb pre-1910 Peter Wright. Aged, badly abused, and severely chipped, but no cracks or large chunks broken off. Stand fabbed from scrap angle, strap iron and some fresh 1" square tubing. Two "cutout

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Here's my 300lb PW(I think) and it's little brother the 100lb mousehole. Check out the stand for the big guy, it's filled with sand and the anvil rests on a floating board so I can raise or lower it as necessary. Between that and the silicone on the heel I reduced the ring to a somewhat bearable tone. Before it was totally deafening. I did notice the rebound suffered a bit when I dropped a ball bearing on it after sitting it on the sand. It still moves metal just fine though, and I'll take a little less rebound in exchange for my eardrums!   

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I made this Rail anvil for a Lady friend Mechanical Engineer so she would have a tool her boyfriends did not. She wanted it red.

1956 G&E Shaper

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52 minutes ago, Tooler said:

I made this Rail anvil for a Lady friend Mechanical Engineer so she would have a tool her boyfriends did not. She wanted it red.

1956 G&E Shaper

Extremely nice job.  I have a similar one that I inherited from my father in law that I use for jewelry projects, though mine has a hardy hole.  Might want to put in a prichel hole at least.

It also looks like you may have welded on a top plate.  If you did, was it a full penetration weld?  What kind of steel did you use for the top plate?  How did you heat treat it?

Latticino,

Thanks for the compliment. Yes there is a top plate welded with both plug and deep beveled joints. Build ups on the horn and heel. No heat treatment or holes needed for the final usage/purpose here. Just an excuse to run the shaper and leave a little something for a young Engineer I mentored for a short while. If she needs a hole in it, she is capable of doing it.

 

  • 1 month later...

I picked up this 200lb Fisher-Norris Eagle at a farm estate auction over the weekend. Here's some before and after the clean-up shots.

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Just recently bought this Peter Wright 141lb. Finished the stand today.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Lucky score for me, a friend at church told me his dad had this sitting behind his house.  This is how I got it, 120 pound Vulcan, has a 44 on it also, I'm guessing the year?  Paid $150 for it.  Counting myself very fortunate!

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Here are three I got lately:

A 200 lb. + American Star Hornless

A 110 lb. Atwood

A  152 lb. Peter Wright

I picked up the American Star on a camping trip in Michigan and got the other two at local auctions.IMG_0045.thumb.JPG.bb2d545ed16932b092eb521ebdba733d.JPGIMG_0020.thumb.JPG.f596d8370246ccf826ea6ed57aa34d33.JPG596f415527469_PW34.thumb.JPG.118d9ae22395666fe905bae4d5b0ffa4.JPG

  • 3 weeks later...

I hammered a lot of metal (mostly copper) on a plain piece of railroad track for 20 years before finally convincing myself to take the plunge on a real anvil.  Wow!  This 50 kg Kanca isn't to everybody's taste, but I would kick my wife out of bed and sleep with this thing if I wasn't afraid of banging my head on one of the horns.  I fashioned the stand out of an old waterbed frame I picked up curbside longer ago than I can remember.  I secured the anvil to the stand by hand routing a custom fitting cap.  This setup has been a beast so far, and I am really pleased with how this all turned out.

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i have two anvils at work i hope you guys can help with one is a small english if you go by the numbers on it,it weighs 580lb the big one is 896lb i cant seem to find a makers mark on them and for the life of me i cant find anything close to 896 lb on the net.could you help with a valuation on them

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If you ship the small one to me I'll give it a thorough inspection and report back.

Can you tell us what country they are located in? I'm at work in Mexico right now; but I feel you probably don't want a value in pesos.

I got this PW from a blacksmith a few days ago.  It's been repaired around the hardie and pritchel holebuwhere a small section of the top plate broke out best I can tell, but he said he's used it for years with no problems.  He also said if it ever gave me problems, to come see him.  She's my first, so I think she's a beat...  She's marked 1 2 17,  so 185#. 

Very interesting how the repair was done.  It rings true, and rebound is almost as good as the rest of the anvil, which I think is near 90% just bouncing a ball pen hammer on the face, and 80% in the repaired area.

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Here is my anvil that I purchased new in 2006.  It's a Old World double horn classic at 165 pounds (75 kilos).  I use it to make armour and now, finally, I have a forge to go with it so I can do hot work as well. :)  

 

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Been a while since I posted anything on here, school and work has me busy! But I just made this sweet little acquisition.  Got it for a sweet low price of 0 dollars.  As far as I can tell this is a 107lb Haybudden blackjack anvil made for Simmons hardware in St. Louis.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just finished mounting up my newest anvil to a big salt cedar stump I cut down. 

Decided to put the prevoius anvils on top for the fun of it. 

 

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Bottom is 253# hay budden

Middle: not sure of the make... never looked into it, but made all of my projects have so far been made on it, save the first 3-4 cotton picker spindles I messed around with on the top little guy.

Top:  first time I actually looked at markings and serial numbers was when taking this pic... whaddya know, also a hay budden. 

 

Question: Did hay budden ever make a cast iron only anvil? On my little ( 30#?) anvil I don't see a welded on top plate of steel, so its either all iron, or all steel... any thoughts?

 

Middle anvil looks like a Columbian.

The later Hay Buddens, after 1908, were solid forged steel top half.  Someone more informed may be able to clarify, but I think Hay Budden also did some solid one piece cast steel.  I believe they had a "SS" with the serial number.

Hay all, new to the forum! My wife thinks I'm crazy for being excited about my first "real" anvil! But I found this on Thursday.

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1 minute ago, Bigmatt said:

Hay all, new to the forum! My wife thinks I'm crazy for being excited about my first "real" anvil! But I found this on Thursday.

Circa 1830-1835 Mousehole Forge -- one of the best anvils ever made. Good score!

I must note, however, that the edges are suspiciously sharp for an anvil of that vintage, and it looks like there might be some repaired areas on the edges and the heel. Have you tested it for rebound? Are the rebound and ringing consistent over the entire face?

(Oh, and welcome to IFI! Please go to the Introduce Yourself page and let us know who you are, but please READ THIS FIRST.)

I bounced a 1 inch ball bearing on it and bounced back to my hand. The guy I got it from said he had it for 25 years and never used it.

 rebound is good,, I will say the horn and shelf area has noticeable dings in them from usage, and the top and edges shows very little

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