customcutter

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About customcutter

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    Tampa, Fl
  1. Thanks guys, I would like to restore it as close to the original style as possible. I have seen a few pictures, but nothing specifically of the spring or mounting plates. I'll start digging. OK lots of pics in the post under this one! Lots of mounting ideas too.
  2. We are visiting my brother in law in Byron, Ga and I checked the local CL for blacksmithing tools beings I'm just getting started. I found a post vise listed in Centerville for $150, and went to see it this morning. I explained to the owner that I was just getting started, and it would be a working tool not a collector piece. Then I explained that it was missing the mounting bracket and the spring to open the jaws, and the movable jaw was frozen up. I told him I would be interested at $80, but $100 would be my max. To my surprise he said he would take $80, and threw in the small tongs and plate. I don't think the plate is related to the vise. He had mentioned that the vise was his grandfathers, and I think he just wanted to see it in good hands and used again. There is a rectangular hole in the post leg of the vise I'm sure for mounting the spring or plate. Any pics of how it is set up would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Ken
  3. Sorry, yesterday was a busy day. I was driving all over the southeast US looking for a PW anvil that weighed 185#. Finally found one up in Atlanta Ga for a mere $2000.00! But hey the pics are up in the Show me your anvil thread, so it was worth it. Sorry guys, just a little humor. It was a busy day, we took the cedar logs to 2 different mills and were told it would be $800-$1000 to have them milled into lumber, so we decided we had better wait before spending that much of our small church's money to mill lumber we may not sell. One guy offered $150 for both loads of logs, then quickly offered to mil them on halves, so that told us they were worth at least $1000, rather than the $150 he offered. Then I had a meeting with the Principal of one of the local High Schools to see if I could talk with the students about Apologetics.
  4. I got this PW from a blacksmith a few days ago. It's been repaired around the hardie and pritchel holebuwhere a small section of the top plate broke out best I can tell, but he said he's used it for years with no problems. He also said if it ever gave me problems, to come see him. She's my first, so I think she's a beat... She's marked 1 2 17, so 185#. Very interesting how the repair was done. It rings true, and rebound is almost as good as the rest of the anvil, which I think is near 90% just bouncing a ball pen hammer on the face, and 80% in the repaired area.
  5. I read this last night after reading about 20 other pages here on the forum, and I know I need to read it again. I can see three main advantages to this type of burner vs the conventional burners. #1 it is a lot quieter, which in my book is a big plus. I already have enough hearing loss, thank you very much. #2 It is possibly more efficient if it is sized properly to the size of the forge you are building. I don't think it's more efficient because it runs at lower pressures, as said before BTU's are BTU's, we just need to make sure they are being burnt inside the forge, not outside. #3 it should have a more even heating of the forge with fewer hot and cold spots. I hope I got it right? Any other reasons I should be considering one burner over another? thanks, Ken
  6. Thanks, I'll try to get some posted tomorrow. Need to get some sleep. Got to haul some cedar to the mill in the AM early. Had 3 trees taken down by a storm at Church 2 weeks ago.
  7. All I can say is the TPAAAT works! I started putting out the word that I was looking for an anvil. I also contacted a local member of the FABA about a meet that is coming up in a few weeks. He told me that he had a couple of guys coming over that Friday to do some forging and said I was welcome to come and said that he had an old anvil in his garage that he didn't use anymore. That was Tuesday night, and I couldn't wait for Friday to come. I made two new friends, forged a knife from a railroad spike, and got to look at his old anvil he didn't use anymore. He raised the garage door and there sat a Peter Wright marked 1-2-17 (185#s if my calcs are correct). He said it had been repaired over 50 years ago before he got it, and that he had never had a problem with it, it was just too big for him now. He's in his late 70's and uses a 140# Peter Wright. I was so excited I didn't even think to check the rebound or anything on it. I asked how much he wanted for it. He threw out and number, then talked himself down $50 without me saying I word. I asked if I could get the younger man there to help me load it and I would run to the closest ATM and bring back the cash, and he said sure. I got it home and did a rebound test on it and everything rings true and the rebound is great, probably close to 90%, even the small repaired section is probably 80% rebound.
  8. Hello everyone, a total newbie to forging, blacksmithing, etc. but getting ready to build my first forge. So I saw all the video's on u-tube using the perlite and sodium silicate, saw some more video's where they were adding mortar mix, etc. So I did even more reading in the comments section of said video's and found out that perlite and sodium silicate aren't good refractorants, above 1900* and just as well throw the mortar mix away. The I started doing a little more research on several different forums and having no luck finding refractory cement locally, I did find Mizzou on Amazon. What I'm wondering is if straight Mizzou is a good enough insulator that I could use it for the first inch or two of the inner chamber, then finish with a Mizzou and perlite mixture on the outer layer next to the tank wall. Will the straight Mizzou insulate the perlite well enough to keep it from burning up? If it does burn up is it a problem? I'm planning on a 30# propane tank with a "D" opening where the carry handle was located. It's $75 for a 55# bag of Mizzou, would it be cheaper to go with a ceramic blanket material and that process? Thanks in advance, Ken
  9. Hello All, My name is Ken, I've been making knives since the late 80's by the stock removal process using ATS-34, but nothing in the last 15 years to speak of. I retired the first of July and I've had the blacksmithing bug since helping a friend forge 2 billets of 500+ layer pattern welded damascus back in the early 90's, but work got in the way. I've been trying to find a decent anvil for years and everyone I ever found was beat to pieces or they wanted an arm and a leg, plus my first born for it. So 2 weeks ago I followed the advice I found on this forum and I called all my friends and started putting out the word I was looking for an anvil. Then I called the Florida ABA, one of their member was having a few guys over to do some forging at his house that Friday and he had a Peter Wright he wasn't using anymore. Long story short, I made 2 new friends, I got to forge a knife from a railroad spike, and a Peter Wright anvil followed me home. It's had a repair done on it a long time ago where a small section of the top plate broke out. It goes from the heel up to the hardy hole and over to the side of the anvil. The crack has been welded and filled back in and if you look at the bottom you can see where three 1/2" round rods extend down through the area next to the hardy hole. The top of the anvil rings true, even the section that has been repaired. In my estimation, I think it has a 90% rebound everywhere except the repair area, and that is about 80% just slightly less than the rest of the anvil. Now I'm trying to figure out how I want to build my forge and gathering materials for that. Edit: If anyone knows where to find refractory materials locally, give me a shout. Other wise I'm probably going to order some Mizzou.