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I Forge Iron

RobS

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  1. Is there a reason the butcher and smith share shop space?
  2. The weight is 428lbs. +/- a couple lbs actual weight.
  3. At the mill I worked at, we used a cross/straight peen hammer. The faces were pretty squared with only a slight rounding.
  4. Pretty sure I've seen similar scenes in cast bronze plaques. They look like negatives. Possibly for casting?
  5. RobS

    Chili Forge

    It's nice to see a company with integrity. I see they give you credit for the burner design and mention your books.
  6. You may not need a new blower. You just need a blast gate or similar to close/reduce/redirect air flow when needed. You need air management. Any blower you buy will need the same air management.
  7. Turn the blower off when you're not at the forge. Turn the air down unless you need higher heats. Use smaller fires unless you need it. Hard to say what the solution is without seeing it and what your doing with it. If your forge welding billet after billet the coal usage may be normal. If your heating small hooks, knife blades ect. then you're using way more coal than needed. Heads up on cost. Most blacksmith groups have an inside scoop on where to get coal. A 50lbs bag cost about $8-10 outside of ebay. Even less if you can buy in bulk.
  8. Handling holes or no, the porosity showing all over the anvil looks like a poor casting. My guess is a replica.
  9. My first impression from the photos is that it is cast iron. The bottom almost "looks" forged, maybe a bit too much. But the sides look very porous. Face almost looks like you can see the grain. The plugged pritchel hole looks like the same material as the anvil. Maybe the plug is a casting flaw if the anvil was cast iron. The rear foot and underside of the heel both look to have casting line remaining. Looks like a cast iron anvil beat to look forged.
  10. I thought about building my own 2x72 but my project list was already long enough. I bit the bullet and bought one from Oregon Blade. I figure when the project list shortens a bit, I can still build my own. Then resell the OBM grinder or keep it. The resale on a well kept commercial grinder should be pretty good. If you got the skills and time, build your own is the cheapest way to go.
  11. It doesn't look familiar. It does have some odd looks, but it may just be the photo. The heel looks long like a more modern anvil (post 1835) but has no pritchel hole (pre 1835). Also does not have that blocky look like early anvils. The heel looks thin like the face has been ground down. The hardy hole looks like crisp edges on the inside like the face has been ground down, or never used. The feet look short. Like maybe the base was ground down a bit. The feet look like they should be square like P.W. H.B. Trentons ect. Not the pointy feet like Mouseholes. Almost looks like a casting line on the front foot under the horn. Check it over really good. It may be a fine anvil. or it may not be. The watch out with painted anvil is body filler under it. Not so bad on the body, but on the face it may be hiding something bad. As always, clean it off and check the bounce.
  12. My first thought when looking at those little owls was Kiwi. The beak is way off, but the overall shape and front view of camera angle may have tricked me. Also the last photo with angle of the camera, are those "crows feet"? I need a better scrap pile or maybe a better imagination. I would love to make some of that scrap art as good you all. Nice work, vert cute.
  13. Check the "free" section of craigslist. There is always someone trying to get rid of wood. Call tree service guys. They may even cut a piece to your requested size. Most likely free, but a box of sweets or beer would probably make you some good friends and future supplier of free wood.
  14. The serial number picture looks upside down. 78934? Is the number on the left? Hay Budden?
  15. Looks cool. Is it a wall hanger or does the client plan on using it? Any guess to what the final weight might be?
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