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I Forge Iron

Richard Furrer

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Everything posted by Richard Furrer

  1. Glenn as long as I can cut the end off a car part, heat it to almost red, pack the edge, get it flood light white and quench it in a mud puddle facing north and stick a used broom handle on the other end I think everything will be just fine. I happen to very much like the way this list cuts to the quick when ideas are crowd sourced. On the great whole the suggestions here are either presented as "what if I...." or "I think it works like..." or "when we did that type of work 30 years ago We..." which are all very valid starting points. I have quite a few engineering students into my shop (had three freshman Northwestern students in last weekend) and I have learned a great deal from that interaction over the years. I often bend the ear of the Profs and past clients who are in industry. I think it wise to use and abuse such relationships when faced with fundamental issues in the blacksmith shop. What we do is far beyond just hitting things with hammers even if we choose to look at it otherwise. Ric
  2. I just saw this thread. Shall I send you a few books from my library to pass the time? I do not have many people with official inter-library loan contracts, but you qualify. What is your current interest area? Ric
  3. I always liked that video Donniev. I am sure the solution will involve a multistage hydraulic operation to gather the upset and punch the holes. With proper use of induction heating those two operations could be done in one heat. The overall manufacture time and the production time are related, but given the cooldown needed one would be better waiting for a natural cooling (forced air to keep fine pearlite is an option) from one shift to another or one day to another and process in batches....maybe a "left twix right twix". Without specifics as to alloy, shape and size it is near impossible to give specific answers. Ric
  4. I have a million BTU natural gas line at 5PSI to the shop. My interest in the oil burner is max temp. I can run coke for very hot fires, but I would like to see if the diesel can do the same for some uses. Ric
  5. Any Progress on the Fisher anvil or swage block castings? This thread is from 2013. Ric
  6. John, I rather like the trunnion style for the rotation aspect of it. Question: Would investment casting allow for more design freedom? Ric
  7. Anyone know if John Newman of Hamilton, Ontario is still casting swageblocks? I can not locate any information. Ric
  8. maybe all three Pat, but I would wager the steel being welded and the filler rod......same with chrome issues as well. It has to be there to be an issue. Ric
  9. Well, The answer is a sliding scale of what you wish for overall tonnage (50 you say), speed and hp you wish to run. So we seem to know 50 ton and 7.5hp at 3500 rpm so for 50 ton at 6" cylinder you need 3537 PSI for 100,006 pounds of push. Given that psi and hp the gallon flow theoretically is 3.63 per minute and the speed (minus 85% efficiency is about) 0.425 inches per second. So you need a pump with the specs of 0.233 cc per revolution........assuming all the above. More or less. Ric
  10. I just saw this posting and needed to share. http://medicalxpress.com/news/2016-12-manganese-welding-fumes-neurological-problems.html Time for a different mask with filter and an exhaust system in my shop. Ric
  11. try low heat (red) and a wooden mallet (2x4 is OK) Ric
  12. As all these tools are older in manufacture and specs change over time it is always a good idea to measure the very one you are making the tool for and not depend upon the factory specs. Have a look at FX2 steel for dies..I have some on my 3B Nazel and they are only now showing wear. They can be machined "as delivered" from Finkl Steel with carbide cutters and need no heat treatment after. They offer several other steel in hardened, but millable condition. FX2 is the only one I have used, but others seem good as well. Just a thought. Ric
  13. Yes......for a company that has adverts with ABANA the insurance company The Hartford never did reply to my attempts at communication either. I have heard this from others as well. Not he phone they were pleasant, but never moved forward on the policy in writing. Ric
  14. I have torn A36 steel by over working it in one heat. Just to show off under the 3B Nazel I have upset a round bar 1.5" diameter x 6" tall into a rough cube and then drawn it out to a 1" square sideways (90 degrees to the 1.5" round) and then upset it back onto a faceted ball and then heavy forging into a 1" square bar again in one heat.......many tares in the material. It maintains heat well if forged hard as the friction (adiabatic heating) does wonder5s, but the steel does not like the experience. I'd not make a chain holding a piano over my head with that bar of steel. Is that wat you had in mind? Ric
  15. check business records....in the US we may trademark a name and not use it.....also some folk DBA...."do business as" and names can sit for years un-used. Ric
  16. OK as to VFD off rotary: I was told that by American Rotary as I wanted to do that here.......and was warned off. Now they seem to claim it on the website as a use for the rotary converters they sell.......so What do I know?!? I thought it had to do with faking the third leg and the VFD using all legs to get the job done. I run my 3B Nazel's ten hp, any smaller motors needed, 20 hp rolling mill, will soon add 15 hp twister, 15hp hydraulic etc. VFD on grinder: http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/products/Variable_Frequency_Drives/C80009.html I have it in an enclosure with a filer and cooling fan as its a NEMA1 thing...They make a NEMA4 or better which may be worth the money. Others have used other brands and there are less detailed ones by the same company...I do not use the features on the thing....manual is 120 pages long.
  17. I have a 30hp rotary by these guys https://www.americanrotary.com Bought it new and I have been running it for about ten-11 years with no issue other than having to grease it and my electrician did find it was a bit out of the 10% rating they claimed, but this was settled by adding another capacitor. Their units come up on craigslist from time to time. I have had no issues with my old ten Hp nazel motor in cold weather and have started a 25hp easy start load with the 30hp converter so I call it good. The thing about a rotary is that you need a 3phase panel for it to feed to BUT then you have the ability to run other there phase tools......not that simple with a VFD. I have a 10amp VFD which takes 220 single phase and runs my 3 phase belt sander to get variable speed on that three phase motor. YOU CAN NOT RUN A VFD ON A ROTARY there are issues with feedback and harmonics and not having an actual third leg. For VFD I suggest single phase to three phase and stay with smaller units......5hp and smaller. I have some larger 480 volt machines and have been installing a 100kw generator to feed those. Bringing in line power three phase to me would be about $56k as I would have to pay for the poles and wire for 1/3 of a mile. A generator was an easy choice.........especially since I do have a large natural gas line to the shop. Ric
  18. Happy to hear the news Ian........ Ric
  19. Turns out the "proper" name is strip heater. Similar in idea, but more suited to what we are talking about. KC Lund sent me this and I would think he would not mind me sharing. I will encourage him to make a pamphlet on the subject for sale. Here are a few brands and part #'s for the strip heaters: CHROMALOX: 071383016 It's 240 volt 42-1/2" element, 1500 watts 121427 it's a 47-1/2" element, 2250 watts WATTLOW: SGA1J42J01 42-1/2", 1500 watts SGA1J47R01 47-1/2", 2250 watts VULCAN: OS1442-1500A, 42-1/2", 1500 watts OS1448-2250, 47-1/2", 2250 watts
  20. some use bolt on block heaters to maintain temp on low temp salt pots. I'll be going that route this year in lieu of the gas burner. Much better for vertical units as the heat is even up the side with little chance for pressure buildup from a cap of unmelted salt. The concept came to me from KC Lund of California.
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