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I Forge Iron

Richard Furrer

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Everything posted by Richard Furrer

  1. Low temp salt pot.....best way to go in my opinion. For one/two swords I suggest either going to someone who has the tools to do the job or make blades that fit in your house oven. Ric
  2. I have quite a bit of 4140 near or that size.....maybe 400 pounds or so in 12 foot bars. I know I have 3" round 4340. Ric
  3. All good wished Ian..recovery can be slow, but you can recover. Ric
  4. Well.... Are you sure it is H13? If it was a tool then was that tool heat treated and are you heating quickly? Maybe the tool is breaking due to stress on the heat treated area. If you are induction heating the part then there may need to be more a pre-heat prior o bringing it up to forging temp...this may be the issue in a gas or coal forge as well.. they a slower heat to forging temp...maybe being that heat back a bit into the unworked portion. Many issues can arise from forging tool steel if one's practice is off a bit. I see many treat tools steps and higher alloy steels like mild steel where they do not pay attention to temp and working heats and then wonder why things go amiss. I recall forging M2 early in my career and had a horrible time...never did get to under control and have not touched it in 20 years. Forged some 4340 a few years ago and heated it too fast (no preheat) and the parts all cracked in the quench. Nice spiderweb issues from the center to the corners. Ric
  5. Anvil's Ring maybe 22 years ago or so had three articles by "Hammer and Hand" studio where they talk about using air chippers and jack hammers and such for piercing and drifting and forging. They liked the hex tools as they did not rotate. You should be ablate locate the back issue with a search over at ABANA.org...........if you find them let me know. Ric
  6. Good forging experiment. I do the same to show visitors the plastic nature of hot steel. Ric
  7. Hello All, I was just asked by a friend if I had plans for foundations on Nazel 4N hammer.......anyone got em? Ric
  8. Make sure the electric solenoids are controlling valves that can pass the volume of oil...the larger GPM valves cost quite a bit more. If you move a lot of fluid then you may run into a "hammering" effect in the line with rapid flow changes. This can increase the PSI load greatly. That said I have seen several 8gpm presses with very fast action and I ran an 11 gpm with foot switch an auto return (spring detent to reverse flow) without the upper microswitch that worked well for many many years till I sold the whole press. Ric
  9. Take them to the top of a hill and roll them down? Ric
  10. weight is 19,000 pounds...made in Japan. AND there are two of them. Ric
  11. Hello All, So........if you had a large gear from a machine..............about ten foot diameter......what would you do with it? Yes 120"...ten feet in diameter. Table for post-modern Knights? Sundial? Ric
  12. 4x4x12 with some help..forge welded and drawn out on a power hammer. Quite a bit of 4x4x6 alone. I have a 200 pound billet of titanium I have been meaning to forge into something.....nothing useful, just a bit of "artisish thing" I would like to work in Phil's size for a while, but not all the time. I have toured Scot Forge with Patrick and the end cuts off one billet are more than most of us work in a month........watched them trip the spur off a stainless ingot about 3x3x6 foot , upset it to 4' tall and then draw it to about an 8" square x maybe 25 feet long in one heat under the 3,000 ton press. It was good to see. Ric
  13. Apprenticeships are dead. There are groups in your area, but what the group members do is up to them so swords may or may not be on the list. There area classes all over the US (world) for those who wish to learn. Getting with that local group and attending meetings and learning general metalworking/forging will help you more in blades then just doing blades. If you truly want to do it you will find a way to do so. Ric
  14. plated shaft? chromium oxide? copper undercoat from eletroplating? No simple answer here on found objects. Ric
  15. How do these 3/4" injectors work at 5PSI? I have a max of 5PSI natural gas in the shop.......I would think I could simply increase the orifice. Ric
  16. Well...explicative. Larry I am happy you are unharmed and should you need anything let me know. Ric
  17. core splitting is not uncommon with severe quenches or drastically different core/side pieces...happens a lot with 52100 and stainless sides. I suggest not using A36 as you really do not know what it is. 1018 or similar would be better. Ric
  18. Shamus....the technique is to size the work to your tools. If you have a 2 pound hammer then do not forge on five pound billets. Weld up smaller one pound billets and then join them if you wish to be larger. I made multi bar sword blanks without electricity years ago...now I have every tool I think can save either time or my body (like Mr. Gearhart). ALSO...thee is a time honored tradition of renting time at other's shops where there is tooling. A day at a shop with a hydraulic press and a gas forge would replace a week of hand work or more. Ric
  19. I'll be there too......look forward to meeting those I do not know. I have the Saturday afternoon spot...........if you wish to see anything demonstrated let me know so I can pack. Thomas...........sorry we'll not meet up. Ric
  20. you want fast...look at the old "Ryder forging machine" five work stations. Figure out how that was made and I'll take one too. I've never seen nor heard of one for sale and know of only a few that yet exist....one in a shop in UK and the other in UK museums. There is a video of one being used making "Wood Auger Bits", but the system here will not let me link to it. Ric
  21. I'd like an 8x8x4 block of tungsten........or something denser with no radioactive issues.
  22. I think the poster is interested in making all metal shapes to mimic forms of glass...not glass and metal. I have given this much thought over the years and have spend a rather large amount of time watching glass folk work (in person and youtube and some DVD). My conclusion is that even if we could the time would be better spent actually learning glass and treat it in a blacksmith manner.....your current mentality applied to glass. Several handicaps exist when using glass techniques in metal.......one is a clear color....we ain't got one. Some colors can be obtained with patina and different metals, but nothing to catch the spectrum of glass...even anodizing will not quite get you there. Dave I have worked through some ideas using induction to get near liquid (low yield) movement and use of high hydraulic loads to capture some of the "fluidity" of the glass methods, but it all falls short and is very troublesome. Ric
  23. As to "integrated production": I needed several thousand (like 25,000) small bits sheared from sheet metal and did not want to do it myself. I took a ride through town to the four shops with shears and the two with CNC shearing machines were proud to show me the line and each explained........in slow small words....that they had an integrated production line where raw enters one way and completed work exits the other. I saw a man standing between the manual shear and the cnc feeding stock from one to the other (manual to cnc). I asked the manager after the fine tour if the man handling the sheets could ...at the end of the production run....feed my sheet into the cnc with a slight change to the cut pattern and run my stock at the end of the month. He smiled and said..."no we have an integrated production line" and explained again the raw material entering one end..... SO........apparently integrated production either means "leave my shop" or "I am incapable of thinking". Ric
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