• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About will52100

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 01/07/1973

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    south Mississippi
  1. Nice! Love everything about it.
  2. Nice, love the shape and handle finish.
  3. Absolutely gorgeous, outstanding work.
  4. Thanks
  5. Nice and clean, love the lines and I bet it's very comfortable to use.
  6. Just finished this yesterday, 6/8 blade, 3" long, 400 layers of 1084 and 15&20 twist damascus, half hollow (smallest contact whee I have is 8"), maroon linen mycarta scales and spacer, brass pins and washers. Shaves well, though it needs a little more stoning. This is my second razor, and while it's got a few things I would do different next time, it's not bad and a big improvement over my first. The biggest thing is I want to get a smaller contact wheel and go for a 1/4 grind. I tried to get a decent pic of the edge thinness, but it's hard to see how thin it is.
  7. Very nice work, and love the safety. I've been trying to figure out a method of putting a safety on liner locks myself, but haven't settled on one yet.
  8. Well, I've got a 2 and 3 pound and 7 pound, now I just need something in between like say 4-4 1/2 pound. The larger the stock the easier it is, but I had a couple friends over a few weeks ago and we forged 3 and 3 1/2 pounders out of 1 3/8 axel shaft, just had to cut long and upset, kinda a pain, but that's the beauty of metal working, you make the material fit you, not you fit the material.
  9. Used a swedge block, tried a cupping hardy at first, but it was too small and started to pinch the edges.
  10. That's what I like about it, you can just lift it and drop it and it does the work and with a good anvil the rebound helps you lift it again.
  11. I understand the difference, but the terms solder and silver solder and silver braze is used so indiscriminately now to describe several different heat and strength ranges that I ask for heat range any more instead of silver solder or braze just to be sure of what I'm getting. You are correct that -100 is not cryo in the proper sense of the word, but knife makers usefully use the term, incorrectly, for dry ice and kerosene as part of the heat treat. I never said I would not do an interference fit, just that I'd be cautious about it, namely that there is little reason to go -100 deg. when kitchen freezers will shrink it enough and not risk damaging a couple days work.
  12. Granted it's not as cold as liquid nitrogen, but it's still considered cryo and as long as you get the blade below -100 deg. it's still doing it's job. I did not say it would not work, just that I would not risk it with stainless, or carbon steel for that mater, as blades below -100 are very brittle, and the sudden temp change of a hot guard could cause a fracture at the junction, and if you decide to give it a little tap to seat the guard it could fracture as well. 20-25 degree in the kitchen freezer on the other hand will cause enough shrinkage to allow an interference fit with a guard that has been warmed to 200 deg. in an oven to slip on without undue stress to the blade, or taking skin off while your doing it. This is supposition from not wanting to break a blade and not taking chances on something I've got a couple days work in. I was talking about silver braze, not solder, ruining the heat treat and unless you can find a braze that will remain solid at 2000 deg then don't do it before heat treat either. Silver solder, or low temp solder, is fine, and done rite will not ruin the temper of most any knife out there. Most times I simply wrapped a wet paper towel around the blade to prevent heat transfer if needed. There are various low temp solders out there, but I don't know of any off hand that will flow at below 350 deg. and work and look rite for a guard, but it wouldn't surprise me overmuch if they exist.
  13. I am no expert by any means on stainless, do only a handful every so often as I much prefer carbon steel. Anyway, I would not sub zero a blade and slip a hot guard on, might be OK, but could cause the stainless to fracture at the junction from thermal expansion. Like I said, it might work, but my experience with cryo shows that the critical point is not the cooling down, but the warming back to room temp where if it's shocked it likes to break. Should work fine at regular refrigerator/freezer freezer temps and warming the guard. I'm not up on stainless braze, I use silver braze on some applications like adding on to a stick tang, but all I've used flows in the 1400-1500 deg range and the last stainless blade I heat treated was at 2000 deg. so it would not work to braze the guard before heat treat, and would damage the heat treat post heat treating. I have seen stainless guards made of the same material as the blade TIG welded on with strips of blade metal prior to heat treat. Good idea to check the temp ranges to make sure everybody is on the same page as to solder/braze.
  14. The solder is less important than a flux that will etch the metal. Regular old past flux won't cut it on higher alloy and stainless steels, and a good solder like stay brite will not only flow well and have more holding strength than lead solder, but it stays bright and shiny longer instead of turning grey. I've never used a solder stop, but I would be willing to bet that the sharpie trick works well as it came from a maker that I respect both as a person and there craftsmanship. If they say it works then I'd be willing to give it a try. I have a feeling it's pretty much doing the same thing. Also, I have sharpies on hand, would have to go and buy solder stop. The argument on tanto's is unending. What your talking about and others are is the American tanto vs. the traditional. Or as some would call it, a knife with a tanto point. I love the traditional blades, and really don't much care for the American tanto, but if that's what you want to make then there is no rules saying you can't, so call it what you want and make what you want.
  15. I imagine it does cook it away, but would leave a residue that the flux has a hard time eating away, or at least that's the theory. Most likely will turn to carbon and tarnish the surface, and as much as I hate to sand tarnish off, I hate sanding solder off even more. Lora Schwarzer was where I got the idea from, she makes beautiful Scagal style knives.