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I Forge Iron


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About rookieironman

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  1. Awhile back I thought I'd start hammering. Now that was more years ago than I'd care to divulge, but over the years I've acquired some knowledge about hammering metal. And I've learned a few things about places where experts hold forth. I've learned that the quickest to comment with an opinion often writes so much that there is obviously very little time spent at the anvil. Unless you call a keyboard your anvil. I have learned that engineering facts about heat transfer, thermodynamics, and material dynamics are areas of knowledge generally misunderstood by those who hol
  2. Refractory lining in. Castable first, then coated with greenpatch421. Will be ordering the macote wash from Wayne soon. I heated too fast and got some steam spalling. Have repaired and am letting things dry for awhile before I fire it up again.
  3. Lined it with the cerachem. I found an online source for Sodium meta silicate powder. Five pounds for $30 so I used a solution of that to assist with the installation. It went well. Test fired it. After running for an hour at a low level I cranked it up to about half way (air gate valve) and stuck a piece of half inch re-bar in it. The picture is of the re-bar three minutes after I put it in the forge. Running at 2 PSI through an eighth inch orifice. I shut down after running for three hours. I figure that was a sufficient burn in. Tomorrow I line with refractory. Thank
  4. Burner mounted and test run. Air adjustment is a bit touchy. I'll be scouting for for a 1 1/4 inch gate valve to allow a bit finer adjustments. I currently have a blast gate over the blower intake but that is a bit crude. I was able to easily produce reducing, neutral and oxidizing flame fronts, though because of the air adjustment, the oxidizing flame was a bit unstable. Had to shut it off after 3 minutes as the structure started glowing a bit. Lol. Burner body had no leaks and stayed cool to the touch. So far so good. Your comment made me look at it a
  5. Wall thickness is 5/16. So a bit more threads than it appears. Test fire showed no leaks or issues at join.
  6. Finished the burner. Following John Emmerling's path with a couple of exceptions. Instead of using crayons, I used lag bolts that I was able to remove after the refractory had set. I didn't like the idea of drilling out the crayons. Also I thought the spiral left by the lag thread might aid in mixing. Additionally I chose to thread the fuel pipe in to the burner instead of welding it on just because I had the appropriate sized pipe tap available. The excess plywood at the end of the burner form was so I could mount my orbital sander to the form tto vibrate the concrete and get rid of any air
  7. The stoichiometric requirements are more readily met with an excess of air as the ratio is nearly 30 :1 air. If you don't have enough air to burn the gas then the gas does not burn. The velocities of the gas required in a Venturi burner require high pressure and usually depend on the excess gas burning in the chamber not the flame wall.
  8. My understanding was that there was less fuel wasted with forced air. No?
  9. Thanks. Movable baffles are part of the plan. It is my understanding that forced air burners use far less fuel than Venturi burners and are more forgiving in terms of design. The preference in the community, from what I see, is for Venturi burners. And indeed most comments I have received on another site regarding this plan assume massive fuel consumption based on Venturi burner fuel rates. I have 16 gauge Kanthol wire I intend to use to hold the blanket in position. Question: should I use a layer of refractory against the tank wall before I put down the blan
  10. And subtract six for a length of 18" According to pine ridge a burner with approx 30 sq inches of burner should work for my 1.6 cubic feet of heated space. 3 x 10 burner should suffice. I happened upon a dust collector/ blower for 75$ that provides 660 scfm and a static pressure of 25. So I won't have to make my own blower anymore. Help is appreciated. Advice to scrap all my work thus far because it will never work and should go out and buy something is accepted in the spirit with which it is offered. Computational fluid dynamics investigation of the flows ( inc
  11. Actually 2700 Cubic inches. And I'm not aware of commercial size furnaces that small. But thank you for your concern. I will run right out and try and find a 'used gas fired pottery kiln' and compare that expense with the $10 total I have spent thus far. I suspect the difference will certainly allow me to purchase a fair amount of propane. Would you suggest an inital layer perlite/sodium silicate in addition to the three layers of cerachem? Actually 2700 Cubic inches. And I'm not aware of commercial size furnaces that small. But thank you for your concern. I will run right ou
  12. Cerachem 8 pound density rated to 2700 Degrees. I have 50 sq ft
  13. I am making a gas forge. I am using a water heater tank. The dimensions (outer) of the tank are 24 inches long by 20 in diameter. I have enough cerachem to line it to a three inch thickness. I am going to make a forced air ribbon burner for it. I am going to build the blower so that it will provide a static pressure of at least 25 inH20. That should be plenty from the stoichiometric calcs. I have a refractory coating to coat the cerachem and a couple of firebricks (good to 3000 F) for the deck. My main question at this point is what do I need to do to install the cerachem? Will it stay in p
  14. Funny my first reply was not posted. I'll try again, I am mechanical engineer who has studied and published on the engineering properties of wood. I understand very well the consequences of the various mounting schemes I have seen for anvils on wood. I understand the mechanical properties of wood thoroughly. Perhaps a more direct way of asking my question is this: do you want an anvil mount that absorbs the kinetic energy of the hammer strike or do you want one that stores the energy momentarily and then returns it as noise and motion? rookieironman
  15. I note that Nimba states a Rockwell hardness for their anvils but neglect to say what the scale is they are using. I have asked them three times by email what scale and they have never answered. I'm pretty sure I'm not going to buy from them even though I like the shape... if they can't answer a simple question and use hand waving meaningless terms like Rockwell hardness with no scale mentioned, it seems more like a marketing excercise than a real anvil company.
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