MotoMike

Members
  • Content count

    334
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About MotoMike

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Northern Illinois

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. MotoMike

    What is it?

    I'd concur with the saw outperforming. the exception being that if once you took a bite your rotated it on the limb a bit then tightened it and repeated. like a big tubing cutter. Im just guessing too.
  2. MotoMike

    What did you do in the shop today?

    I do like that hammer and chisel and hammer. Nice work. No forging for me. installed a 240 circuit for my grinder and welder.
  3. MotoMike

    Propane tank forge design REV 0

    The comment about the back opening being too large was not mine. I did however make my back opening smaller than the front. I love your drawings. they look to be the best forge I've seen if you bring it to fruition. Burner count. I think the conventional wisdom is that for every 350 cubic inches you need one 3/4 inch burner. so calculate your interior volume to decide. Mikey I'm sure is right on that issue. I set mine up so that the floor meets the bottom of the openings front and back. makes sliding things through the back easy. Don't know what the wisdom is here. I'm interested in others thoughts on the porch height. I've got mine all level, front porch, forge floor, back porch. I've considered that it might be nice to have the front porch about a quarter lower than the floor. then when I drag work to the opening, it might make grabbing with tongs easier. Don't know about refrigeration tubing. I used 1/8 inch tubing long enough to get the hose junction clear of the forge body.
  4. MotoMike

    Can I save my new punch?

    Great news. A round nose punch is goof for making the tooth in a cap lifter.
  5. MotoMike

    Propane tank forge design REV 0

    That looks great Travo. I know what you mean about the boxes being a better mating surface for the bricks to sit against. My thoughts were that you can't close it off all the way anyway as the burner needs air. with my tank even though the ends are convex I can easily position them tight enough to starve the combustion. I don't like that unprotected metal always being hit with that heat. I notice that your drawing with the burner installed shows the flare up in the burner mount. Don't know if that is intentional or not. I have my flare tip about 1/2 inch up in the wool. with it as shown, It might be tough to get your two rows of mounting bolts enough room to grip the burner pipe. I think you want them at least an inch separated vertically so that they have good solid strength against the burner pipe moving. also I think being separated vertically by at least an inch gives you better aiming ability by adjusting those bolts. I'm really looking forward to seeing your build.
  6. MotoMike

    Propane tank forge design REV 0

    Upon re-reading my post I see that I said tilt the burners, I guess that is not really what I meant. in addition to being tilted to about 1:30 or 2:00 I would install the burner mounts at 1:30 or 2:00 as well. Your design looks like you've considered creating a nice swirl inside the forge. I failed to do that. On my next build I'll incorporate that feature. In a nutshell the goal is to move the intakes off to the side a bit so that the DB which because it is so hot will tend to rise quickly, won't be passing right by the intakes.
  7. MotoMike

    Propane tank forge design REV 0

    Travo Very nice drafting work. or cad if that is what it is. built a forge from a portable air tank. not an expert by any means but did learn from my build and exchanging posts with the resident experts here. My forge if the air is still, occasionally will re-ingest the dragon's breath and falter. This I think is in large part due to the burner intake being straight up (12:00 O'CLOCK_. If I were to build it again, I'd tilt the burner (burners in your case) over to about the 1:30 or 2:00 o'clock position. not a big problem as I usually run a big furnace blower in the shop to move the air around with windows and garage roll ups open. my initial build had the front work opening about the size of yours. I found I could not get my arm into the forge through the opening to slather on refractory. I'd make sure the front opening was big enough to get your arm in so you can reach the whole interior. I don't know about the openings where you have designed boxes that are essentially tunnels moving the opening a bit futher from the body of the forge. I have had good luck with a porch welded to the body and just sitting hard bricks on as doors that I can move with no restrictions to change the opening size. I put a hinge on the front and a latch on the other side. not to routinely open it, but to make future work easier. That's my two cents. I think you are going to make a great forge. Wasted excessive spaces removed
  8. MotoMike

    The Vise to end all Vices.

    Can't wait to see her cleaned up a bit and mounted. congrats!
  9. MotoMike

    some for the Kitchen

    very nice. they all look posh to me.
  10. MotoMike

    BIG Hay Budden

    what a monster. congrats
  11. I wouldn't mind seeing some pictures. Any in progress pics?
  12. MotoMike

    small forge building on skids

    As a guy who tried to work in the winter here in northern Illinois, in an uninsulated garage, I'd definitely recommend insulating it. I don't have coal forge experience, but a well insulated gas forge does not put much heat into the room. At least that is how it seems in the winter. Yesterday was a different story.
  13. MotoMike

    Brass Shell Casing

    wow, that is quite a commission. I am anxious to see the progress as you work through that.
  14. MotoMike

    It's only fair.

    OK. been quite hot lately. just wondering
  15. MotoMike

    It's only fair.

    ohh. I'm with JHCC. No Pics!!