Kintan

I was able to get them running smoothly down to about 3 PSI. I'm wondering if this is too much dragons breath outside the forge. The flames look really yellow on camera but look much less yellow in person. The exhaust is a 4.5" circle out of the back.

Gentlemen, I'm glad I made you happy by listening to your advice haha. "A smart man figures it out, a genius listens to advice from others that are smarter than him." I'll admit a big reason I rebuilt the entire burner is because it's not crazy expensive. And I had all the brass tubing and nipples I needed besides the schedule 80 so I didn't have to drop a ton of cash to redo them. I also figured these would be better and save money in the long run. In the beginning, I thought the design I used was a good design. It turns out it wasn't, and when the guy who designed the dang thing tells you it's a bad design....it's a bad design haha. Ill get these fired up and let you know how low I can take the PSI.

Quick update. First they are .023 tips. Sorry my 40 something year old eyes couldn't read haha. Second, I just finished building the first burner following the book steps exactly. I will make a second but wanted to make sure I got one done and it worked before making two and messing them both up. Good god these work a whole lot better without the changes the other plans I followed made. I went with three port holes instead of 4 and used schedule brass pipe for the accelerator tube. The tips I had were actually 1/4-20 thread at .030. Just got it fired up. Much better flame than the first ones I made and outside the forge ran really well at 5 psi. Now I'll make my second one and get them installed.

Thanks Mike! And I do believe you! Frosty you are spot on about the mig tip threads. I do have the right taps and bits for them

Thanks for the tips Mike! I will make sure to use them as intended. For the schedule 80 nipple, should I cut the threads off one end or file them down, or will that not affect anything?

Totally agree Buzz. Lingo is important The one question I have for Mike is his recommendation to use schedule 80 brass instead of 40 for the flame: "(1) Change out the recommended schedule #40 1/8" pipe nipple for a schedule # 80 nipple, which you can tap the 1/4-28 thread directly into, and thus exchange a bunch of extra steps and silver brazing for increased performance." I just want to make sure I am doing it right and this means I can skip using the brass nuts that hold the mig tip and screw the tip directly onto the brass nipple? Am I still supposed to cut off the threaded end the tip goes into like it shows in his book when you are using the two brass nuts?

Buzz, thank you. Whenever I read that flame in the nozzle was bad, I alway pictured the flare as the nozzle and not the burner tube. That makes a lot more sense. I have Mike's book and have most of what I need to make that burner. I'm taking his advice from another thread and using schedule 80 brass tubing instead of schedule 40 so I don't have to brake anything.

I just saw that about the searches on the read this first part. I also updated my profile. I got a message suggesting the same thing as you haha.

Ok, I cannot find a subsection called "gas burners" anywhere on Iforgeiron. I see a sticky labeled "Burners 101" and a subsection called "Ribbon Burners" within the "Gas Forges" section, but nothing called "gas burners". Beyond that, I'm going to follow Mike's instructions to make some new burners and will update when that is complete.

Frosty, I am not saying I'm not going to listen to you. I like to figure things out and understand what's wrong to improve it. I did this as a test for my own curiosity. I've already gotten the book by Mike on burners to read through it and plan on following his directions in said book. I'm sorry for being curious and trying to understand why the burner I made isn't working for my own edification. And I don't know why I can't find it. The only thing I can imagine is I'm doing this on my phone and that is somehow screwing with the format so I can't see it. No need to be rude about it.

Ok a quick update. For poops and giggles, since I plan on replacing the burners unless I can figure this out, I ground down the threads in the coupler I am using as a flare end. Doing that let's the burner ignite and burn. Only problem is, it's just like before and appears to be igniting inside the flare. Since I know a flare is to help slow down the air/fuel mixture to burn, is it possible it's slowing down *too* much, or am I just overthinking this?

I appreciate the replies. I would gladly upload a video of it working in the forge, but it won't work long enough for that. I took them out of the forge to try and light it outside the forge and had the same issue. I have tried tuning the choke in every conceivable possible way. With it *barely* cracked a flame will light but that is with almost zero pressure on the needle valve. It won't stay lit without the flame being green. The tiniest change in opening the choke, causes the flame to shoot off the end and die. With that in mind, I am taking Frosties recommendation and finding a new burner to build. Now I just gotta find the gas burner subsection. I see "ribbon burner" but not gas burner. I'll find it eventually.

Good morning all, I have a forge I built with burners based on this design: https://althoffwoodshop.com/blogs/main/forge-build-part-i-building-the-burners?srsltid=AfmBOoqjCx3s6BJB8fp32IsS9slCT3xlkMUHaDDsWM0sLvghsnNGQRGW Originally I had a reducer on the end as the flare. It was a 3/4" to 1" bell reducer that I ground the grooves off on the larger end. This worked very well, but the flame was igniting inside the reducer causing the bell to get red red red hot. After doing some looking and reading, I replaced the reducer with a stainless steel coupler as the nozzle end. I have not ground the grooves down on the flame end of this reducer after seeing Frosty mention in another thread how that was not necessary. Now, I cannot get the dang thing to light without the flame detaching from the front of the burner very far into the forge. I am running propane at 20psi that feeds into a needle valve I can set from 0-20psi. At 1-2 psi I cannot get the flame to catch. At 5 psi, it will light but I cannot get it to stabilize without shooting off the end of the burner. I have messed with the collar covering the port holes but cannot make fine enough adjustments I think. I am using .035 mig tips for the accelerator and have also tried .020 tips with no improvement. I will try and get some pictures of the burners this evening, but wanted to see if anyone had tips before then.

This is all true. For me though, the galvanized pipe was left over from a job at my work. I like saving when I can so this was one of those instances. I appreciate your comments though. Down the road if I decide to become a 2 burner man I will definitely keep those tips in mind.

I got it figured out. I ended up grinding the 3/4" black iron pipe a little bit and got it to fit. Then I primed and coated everything wtih high temp paint. Works great.