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What did you do in the shop today?


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Nice work Hoj, anything new takes a bit longer. Don't worry about heats, it takes as many as it takes. 

I have a few of those tongs and they work well. I don't need as many tongs as a lot of the other guys seem to. I don't know if it's the gas forge or what I build, but I could get along fine with only 4 or 5 tongs.

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Rebar gets a bad rap, but it does make reasonable looking longhorn billy hooks when you run out of square bar. The pattern gives an industrial look and it does take a high polish. There are many different grades of rebar though and not all have the same working qualities.

I did these two today and the one on the left is square bar for comparison. The hang up rings are flattened spring washers (cooled slowly!) and the middle one has a ring forged from an old wrought iron chain link. Easy ways to make rings.

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You do such nice work.. 

On 3/10/2019 at 10:27 PM, Ted Ewert said:

What's so confusing Here is my usual configuration. Hot part in the forge, cold part outside. No tong needed unless I have a small part to heat. 

What do you do when you get to short pieces?   Thumblatches, chain making, Hinge making, rivet making?    I used to make a new set of tongs pretty much every week for each new job that came in.. 

When I was doing demonstrations I used to get paid so would make weird tongs which I normally wouldn't devote time to..   I use maybe 7 of the same tongs every week..  The scroll tongs get used the most but these are for cold work so never see the forge fire.. Funny right.. 

but, I don't make the same things I used to..  and without the larger selection I would not be able to do the same differences that happen week to week.. 

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1 hour ago, ausfire said:

Rebar gets a bad rap, but it does make reasonable looking longhorn billy hooks when you run out of square bar.

See, that's where you SHOULD use rebar: when the texture compliments the design!

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We all have our favorite tools that seem to work best for at least 80% of what we do; but I sure enjoy having a bunch of weird ones that cover that last 20%.

I see no virtue in restricting oneself and the photo's of 100 years ago shops generally seem to show they didn't back then either.

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2 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

What do you do when you get to short pieces?   Thumblatches, chain making, Hinge making, rivet making? 

I don't make a lot of the stuff you do, like chains or thumb latches. Hinges I can make with what I have, and I use a torch for rivets. If I have an oddball piece I'll usually just weld a handle on it. Nevertheless, I could us some offset tongs.

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Finally finished my dishing stump for some armoring work I've wanted to do for a long time and got started on dishing a helmet half (no pics yet - it's a stump with a depression and an incomplete helmet half - nothing much to look at...).

Turns out that being used to hot work, cold-dishing 16 ga. cold rolled sheet is WORK!

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Alexandr---lovely light for your shop!  (I know, goes to a customer; but it would be...)

CP2K; got any large spheres for ball stakes?  I picked up some 99 pound dock weights to planish against...as well as a crane's headache ball.  I'm too old to work cold rolled by hand anymore. Heat&Beat and planish the work hardening back in....

 

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Learned how to weld the other day, not pretty but it works well enough for sticking metal together. Welded some scrap tubing I had to the sides of the forge and bent an adjustable work rest out of some round stock to fit, turned out better than I thought. Huge quality of life improvement there, still working on optimizing burning performance though (picture is during cool down).

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I used sq tubing on mine with a slightly small square stock "L" that "binds" in place in use, rotate it slightly and it moves in and out freely.

This means I can use a different "L" in the tube on the other side for the rear of the forge and have them adjust separately.

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Thomas: At this moment, the best I have for a spherical planishing stake is a 12 lb sledge head rounded on one end. Currently working on sourcing something else. I had considered a shot put, but I don't know that I am good enough a welder to get a cast iron (as I understand most of them are) shot put to stick to a medium carbon stake (pavement breaker bit). If I go that route, I'll probably take it to a pro welder. 

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29 minutes ago, Cavpilot2k said:

Currently working on sourcing something else. 

I have the mate of the ball I made this one from, if you want it. It’s cast, but you could drill it out and pour in some melted lead to lock the shaft in place. 

5381BDC8-14BF-4561-A33C-2660BABDD125.jpeg

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21 minutes ago, Cavpilot2k said:

At this moment, the best I have for a spherical planishing stake is a 12 lb sledge head rounded on one end. Currently working on sourcing something else.

Check with a cable or wire rope supply for "headache balls" They are the round balls you see above hooks on crane cables to keep tension on the drum to prevent the cable from "bird's nesting". The weight also helps place the hook accurately and easily.

Anyway, headache balls are iron spheres in bolt together halves. There is a groove between the halves with a clamp mechanism, shape, (?) to clamp the ball to the cable. They come in many weights / sizes and prices.

They  make excellent mushroom stakes with a little polishing, if you really want a ball stake you need to weld the halves together and dress. In either case you need to weld a shank to the ball to mount.

They also make excellent engraving vise stands. You bolt, screw, etc. the vise or Wax the work directly to the flat side of one half of the ball and place it round side down in a toroidal (donut) shaped shot bag. It allows you to engrave, chase, etc. fine work at many angles. 

Frosty The Lucky.

 

 

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