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I Forge Iron

John B

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About John B

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  • Location
    Dawlish, Devon, UK


  • Location
    Starcross Devon UK
  • Biography
    over 40 years engineer and blacksmith
  • Interests
    promoting and passing on blacksmithing skills
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  1. Collection of "Special" Individuals Ringing Anvils ?
  2. The 1/8" worked well for me too, Although the CoSIRA books are a good/excellent reference source, they are not definitve, merely a very convenient guide They are now readily available as softback reprints for anyone interested, and can't find them as a PDF download.
  3. Hi Thomas, sorry for any confusion but, Upon checking, apparently so, but this conflicts with what an original CoSIRA instructor told me, and it worked well for me on the larger gates The reference for the PDF format is Wrought Ironwork, Part 6 page 86 Lesson 30, Item D, and the recommendation is 1/16" per foot. See what works best for you
  4. For traditional gates the allowance for sag was 1/8" per foot length if that helps
  5. If I have problems, I use this old blacksmith glove, made from an used welder's glove that has holes in on the seams and fingers. Left hand or right hand, and quick to remove. May be of use.
  6. Here's a portable one I used for shows as well as in the workshop which illustrates how useful they are With regard to the pipe for a tue iron, the refrectory bricks shold be a close fit and come to the front of the pipe (Clay it in ito get it snugif you wish) and this should keep most of the heat away from the steel so it doesn't melt rapidly away.
  7. Flanges are usually used to spread the load when the top tools are in use instead of relying on the pin diameter to take full thrust, as this could allow mushrooming on the end and causing it to jam in the socket. A point to remember is that the original use for fly presses was not for blacksmithing, but for punching, blanking and forming metal items. Blacksmiths tend to use them because they are so handy, and lend themselves to adaptation to what we want to use them for.
  8. With regard to flatters, I would like to add to comments about " floating" . I n practice I used to have these illustrated ones, my preferred one, as you can tell from the split top (which should be ground off for safety) is the wire wrap handled one, the reason being you can just place it on the metal and it levels itself on the meaterial when it is struck without jarring the wrist as when using the wooden handled one which can act like a set hammer if held too tightly The third one I also prefer to the wood handled one, and use it when I am out and about as it does not take
  9. Hi Thomas, just because they are demonstrating, does not mean they are expert, I don't know who the demonstrator was but if he is demoing and treating MS like HC then that is a problem in itself If it is cracked, then you were right to point it out, and unless it was annealed after and before it was ready for using on a job, then it was in a potentially dangerous state, was this pointed out by him/her? If the "job" was a wall mounting or static not to be handled item, then maybe in their opinion "It would do" was valid, but a bit of a cop out for doing a job to be proud of, I could n
  10. True Thomas, I should have qualified the statement by adding the "someone who knows what they are doing" unfortunately I was not thinking of via internet or TV programmes, My Mistake.
  11. The phrase "All the gear, and no idea" springs to mind. Get it HOT and Hit it, and learn from there. Different degrees of Hot, and different amounts of Hit, it's in there somewhere, you just have to find it. Watching helps, Doing will get you there. Guidance will help,
  12. We Had a weekend playing with old spanners back in 2004, sorry about the picture quality. This one started aas a single ended spanner, and finished as a Twybil, used for making willow hurdles for fences or animal pens A selection of the items made An large ring spanner made int a candleholder, and a double open ended one made into mini bootscraper. Found a great difference in materials used when the spanners were made.
  13. I have no experience of gas firewelding, (Don't want to damage my gas forge's lining) but from the appearance in the pictures, they were not hot enough right through, you have to allow the welding heat to soak completely through the joining areas. Patience is the key, bring it up to welding heat slowly to allow the heat to penetrate/permeate right through, turn over if needed during the process. This is relevant to both gas and solid fuel forges.
  14. My take on this would be that it is not cast iron, that is inappropriate for a struck object and would have not mushroomed at the struck end. You could try heating above critical and then quenching the edge and testing it with a file to see if it will harden, you can then continue to make a qualified decision on what is needed for the edge you require. If you want to put a steeled edge on then you can do so, or maybe you just want to try that for practice. Whatever you choose, enjoy and let's see the end result.
  15. Also IMHO proper fitting tongs would help, you seem to be holding it on the twist rather than at right angles to the anvil face and it looks awkward. It will also put stress on your wrist.
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