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John B

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About John B

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    www.westpointforge.org.uk

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dawlish, Devon, UK

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  • Location
    Starcross Devon UK
  • Biography
    over 40 years engineer and blacksmith
  • Interests
    promoting and passing on blacksmithing skills
  • Occupation
    Blacksmith

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  1. You may find the ones with the handles at 90 degree to the opener "blade" awkward to use. While using these as a practising too, The use of a flatter on the opener blade would also help in removing the hammer marks to inmprove the finish, and , if the scrolled ends were more tapered to a point, they would IMHO look somewhat better., Look forward to seeing them all completed and the progress you will no doubtedly make as you get through them. Enjoy.
  2. Hi Pat, Firstly I would cut out a piece (probably 4" square) for the BMW badge from the plate, leaving a margin all the way around, makes it easir to work than a disc of the finshed size and you get equal resistance all around its perophery when casing the profile in, and incise your second circle as the first one. When you are satisfied with your design, then cut off the excess, Hacksaw, and file or use the dremel to finish the outer diameter. use the hacksaw as you would forge a round on the end of a square bar. Saw the corners off near to your marking out of the outer diame
  3. Hi Pat, I'm a little confused with the two circles, if its going to be 3" diameter, then you only need one circle. Anyhow, this is my approach to making this item Anneal your metal. Mark out the finished shape you are wanting. I would then use a small (Approx 4" long x 3/8" diameter or hex stock) radius fuller chasing tool, and a light weight hammer (12oz) and incise in the profiles and lines you want. A Search for chasing tools for some idea of how to use and what they look like may help, hard to describe otherwise , but it will look like a blunt chisel that has a very sma
  4. I think your assumption is correct. They usually come in pairs, and are used to support clamping bars on machine tables to secure workpieces. This block has sixteen different increments, (if used at 90 degrees) The clamp bars have a slot down the centre to enable them to have a tee bolt pass through to locate in a tee slot on the machine table. They are an alternative to a screw bottlejack as they accommodate smaller heights to suit component thicknesses.
  5. Great idea, well done. I particularly like the handles are in line when being held in use, reducing the strain on your wrist.
  6. Apologies for appearing to be patronising in this response, but I am just trying to go through the making process involved in producing this type of joint in a finished project, and avoid some of the pitfalls it can involve, a little forethought and planning can save a lot of time and mistakes.This is the method I use, others opinions may differ. Tenons can be round, square or rectangular depending on their purpose. Consider where it is going to be used, and how best to manage it before starting. This will depend on its purpose in the structure it is to be used in. Plan a logic
  7. If you are cutting hot, you should not get a rebound, if you are, then material needs reheating. When you place a cutting plate under the workpiece, it may rebound then as you chisel until it is through. If you are cutting cold, then patience is the key, line up your chisel, hit, pause and then move chisel on into next position and hit again, Material may bounce on impact and is usually due to the workpice and the supporting item not being in perfect alignment, allowing top piece to spring/deflect when being struck.
  8. Either way is good, but if you don't hold the 90 degrees vertical to the cutting face and your half and half technique does not align at the same place, that is when you get a ragged edge and need to address the finish, also you can end up with different width strands, For beginers it is advisable to accurately mark out using a cold chisel, guide lines on all four sides on the centrelines of each side, and to the same extremities before attempting to slit, again the 90 degree rule is essential
  9. Thanks, whether you go all the way through, or half and half, make sure your slitter is at 90 degrees to the surface you are working on.
  10. I usually slit all the way through (onto a sacrificial plate at the last stage to prevent damage to the slitter) Then close up and resquare the piece, then repeat slitting again from this side. Resquare again, and use a thin drift over a suitable bolster to open up the slots prior to twisting and forming the cage. Open cage to desired profile (If you have any burred edges you can address the issue now, either use a mandrel, or file off any ragged bits) Twist to the required form This sample was on a 1/2" bar and not dressed at all.
  11. Collection of "Special" Individuals Ringing Anvils ?
  12. The 1/8" worked well for me too, Although the CoSIRA books are a good/excellent reference source, they are not definitve, merely a very convenient guide They are now readily available as softback reprints for anyone interested, and can't find them as a PDF download.
  13. Hi Thomas, sorry for any confusion but, Upon checking, apparently so, but this conflicts with what an original CoSIRA instructor told me, and it worked well for me on the larger gates The reference for the PDF format is Wrought Ironwork, Part 6 page 86 Lesson 30, Item D, and the recommendation is 1/16" per foot. See what works best for you
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