John B

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About John B

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Dawlish, Devon, UK


  • Location
    Starcross Devon UK
  • Biography
    over 40 years engineer and blacksmith
  • Interests
    promoting and passing on blacksmithing skills
  • Occupation

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  1. John B

    Leg Vise Mount Advice Needed

    If you want to get to precision engineering on this, then the side of the washer bearing on the handle side is flat, as this is 90 degrees to the thread box, the side bearing on the vice jaw is slightly dished. This radius will depend on the distance between the pivot on the base of the moving leg, and the centreline of the screw thread box. In practice it should wear in with use. You could always lap it in with grinding paste if you wanted to go that far.
  2. John B

    Leg Vise Mount Advice Needed

    Thrust washer dimension will vary depending on vise size, allow a clearance to fit over the threaded sleeve 1/16" will do, and thickness to be about 5/8" , the outside diameter should match the handle boss size. One side is flat, the other is slightly domed to fit to the moving jaw side. (this may have started parallel, but will wear in as the vise is used.) Here is a picture of a vise I recently obtained, on a suitable mounting post. Hope this helps.
  3. John B

    Anyone got much experience of Habermann hammers?

    A hammer is just usually a lump of metal on a stick. Stainless steel is no better in use than a carbon steel one, just more flashy. It's the person wielding it that makes the difference, there is no magic in them. Farrier supply places are the ones where you are likey to get a rounding hammer from, they don't usually make them, they factor them, just like Angele in Germany does. So don't rule them out Typical farrier supply suppliers are They have a good range of reliable makers and prices. Or you could come on one of our toolmaking courses at Westpoint and make your own
  4. John B

    Leg Vise Mount Advice Needed

  5. John B

    My twist project

    No fire, good choice, you could try modelling clay just to give you a feel for the project. Enjoy
  6. John B

    My twist project

    It must have been done somewhere before, but I just thought it to be an interesting exercise, and it proved to be a nice comfortable handle or centre feature for candleholders etc. Look forward to seeing your finished piece.
  7. John B

    My twist project

    That would work, but not appear the same as the one pictured, less of a helix which then feels different when held if used as a handle. Give it a try, and let's see the results for comparison.
  8. John B

    My twist project

    Managed to have a bit of a play today, and ended up with this Question is, which one is the reverse twist?
  9. John B

    Memorial garden work

    Don and yourself should be proud on how far you have come, glad I was a tiny little bit of that journey. Well done Joel
  10. Opening Times Open weekdays when I get round to it, possibly about 9 or 10, may be earlier, sometimes later, or not at all. I close about 5 or 6 or when the fancy takes me Sometimes earlier and sometimes later When I’m not here I’m somewhere else, but when I am here I’d sometime rather not be Recently I’ve been here a lot of the time, except when I’m somewhere else, but I should be here then too! YOU COULD CHECK FIRST BY MOBILE PHONE IF I HAD ONE WITH ME
  11. John B

    What did you do in the shop today?

    The pictured heads are from a standard square head coach screw, so come in standard A/F sizes. Collars, need a mandrel the same size as the pieces to be secured together, length of collar is circumference around joining area plus twice the thickness of the bar being used for the collar. Forge one or fabricate from stock used. Use double ended calipers to obtain sizes to forge to. Place on stock for collar at end of bar, rotate on bar each side of mandrel, add two thicknesses of collar stock, Note this length using dividers in case you have to repeat for other collars if making more than 1 item Mark with cold chisel, so you can find this mark on your hardie, get hot and cut nearly though with hardie, and then form into a U, then twist off when hot and forge around the mandrel to finished size, reheating as needed, (Remove collar from mandrel and just reheat the collar. then open up the collar and slip over the pieces to be secured, close with hammer blows and allow to cool to tighten the whole assembly. I prefer to have the split on the collar on the widest section, Hope this helps. Others may have different methods,
  12. John B

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Custom tool is caled a spanner, and if you put a collar on properly, you don't need a weld.
  13. Hi Alex, whereabouts in the UK are you? Complaints about noise are taken very differently by each local authority, and are subjective as to the degree of annoyance concerned. Decibel counts are not the criteria that are used. What noise is generated by your forge/hearth, and why? Anvils can be quietened, but by and large if you are forging hot metal as opposed to colder, that will reduce noise. If you are in the Westcountry, you can have forge time at Westpoint on members days which may help your situation.
  14. John B

    Forging meteorite

    In 2008 I had a the pleasure of forging a meteorite for a client, purportedly to have originated from Jupiter according to analysis (could not find Made on Jupiter or any other ID on it, so assume it to be as stated) It wasn't a large sample, and the client wanted it forged into the shape of the Ursa Major constellation. ( aka Great Bear, Big Dipper) Unlike the one Mr Steels was attempting to forge in his video, you could see the striations on the lower surface as it had travelled through the atmosphere to its resting place in the Sahara desert where it was found. To look at it was reminiscent of the cone shaped capsules of the NASA projects as they were heated upon rentry into the Earths atmosphere. This was supposedly similar to the items used when mummyifying Egyptian Pharoah's bodies prior to being entombed in the pyramids. It was in this case to be worn as a necklet. The process proved quite interesting, as when this metal was originally used it was forged pre the iron age, more valuable than gold, and the Egyptians thinking it was sent by the Gods fronm the stars. After a slow start and a couple of attempts, in a coal fired hearth, to get the feel for it. I found it best to work by keeping to a high temperature and not allowing it to cool too much, it was quite manageable. I first forged it into a small rectangular bar, Manipulated it to the rquired shape, cut off the excess which I also used to make a pendant for the clients daughter, and then formed the shape by bending the bar on edge and punched a small hole through the tail end of the dipper. The position of the seven stars were then stamped into the item, and a light clean up undertaken with a file and emery cloth. The excess that I cut off was reforged, twisted and punched, then polished. The finish was superb and easily polished to a mirror finish, due to what I believe was a high nickel content in the sample. None of the forging processes proved troublesome , must have been beginers luck, or the Gods were smiling down on me that day.
  15. John B

    ember problems

    Try shaving the hammer shaft to fit your hand properly, and don't use too tight a grip. All tools you make or use should be comfortable.