John B

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About John B

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    http://www.blacksmithsguild.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dawlish, Devon, UK

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  • Location
    Starcross Devon UK
  • Biography
    over 40 years engineer and blacksmith
  • Interests
    promoting and passing on blacksmithing skills
  • Occupation
    Blacksmith

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  1. Agree with JLP The Tipp Ex product is what I sometimes use, I understand thay are made with titanium oxide content, hence the heat resistance. Traditional brass rule used to have steel wear plates rivetted on the ends to reduce the wear and hence inaccuracy over time.
  2. Looks good, Another half twist , or more are other variations, but I find the one and a half turns are comfortable on the hand. Punch marks are the traditional way of marking key points when forging as they are visible when meatal is at forging heat. Tend to disappear at welding heat, so other methods required then if accurate location needed.
  3. Thanks for all the comments, don't get much time to do bits now I am afraid, bit out of practice. Exactly as you describe. You can see the punch marks I use to align the bar when it is bent back on itself. Bar was marked out at 6" from end and another 6" beyond, Tapered the end , bent the bar back onto itselfto form a loop, aligned the marks and then closed loop between the vise jaws. Heated up the portion to be twisted, then chilled the loop in the water bucket to "freeze" it, Then held it in the vise at an appropriate length with the two bars at 90 degrees to the vise jaws as opposed to holding them side by side within the jaws (as this tend to allow slippage between the bars) Slipped a round bar into the loop and quickly gave it one and a half twists. and straightened it. This feels comfy in the hand, you can put more twists in, and another alternative is to then beat it down along the length making the grip diameter smaller and altering the appearance of the twist too.
  4. I would possibly class these as pokers and some details of them for those that like pics Enjoy
  5. Trying to make steel out of Mild steel ? It is already steel, so what you are doing is starting the process of case hardening (carburising) the existing material by adding carbon to its external surface, you then have to rehat and quench to harden the external surface, and that surface then is normally a wearing prevention surface, and does not make the mild steel into a spring steel. To temper items you have to first harden them and that usually requires a carbon steel. If you are going to use a molten bath to uniformly temper that hardened steel, it will depend on the use for the spring. For watch springs historically we use 48 parts lead to 4 parts tin, and for more heavy duty springs you can use boiling Linseed oil. Both of these methods are highly risky and can be downright dangerous, I would suggest using other methods that can be found elsewhere in the forum as Mr Sells has already suggested, or consult your local blacksmith group
  6. I use perimeter plus twice thickness of metal being used for the collar, and find that works successfully
  7. John B

    Discoloured and pitted metal

    Hi Thomas, Like yourself, I hate using the angle grinder with a wire wheel and have found a solution I am a lot more happier with. What I am using looks the same, but in fact is a car bodyshop buffing/polishing machine. The arbor is the same as the angle grinders, but it has a variable speed control between 500 to 3000 rpm. Still have to treat it with great respect, but not so prone to flying wires.
  8. John B

    Christmas items 2018

    Thanks, inspiration from somewhere on the net, not sure who, with my own spin on them, the snowflake and curlies were quickly snapped up, much to my surprise,
  9. John B

    Christmas items 2018

    Some from last year, tree ornaments and a wreath hanger. Wreath hanger can also be made with an extended top piece to fit over the door itself The hanging s were made from welding rods that had got past their use by date and the coatings were damaged. Easily made and not a lot of heat required.
  10. John B

    Leg Vise Mount Advice Needed

    If you want to get to precision engineering on this, then the side of the washer bearing on the handle side is flat, as this is 90 degrees to the thread box, the side bearing on the vice jaw is slightly dished. This radius will depend on the distance between the pivot on the base of the moving leg, and the centreline of the screw thread box. In practice it should wear in with use. You could always lap it in with grinding paste if you wanted to go that far.
  11. John B

    Leg Vise Mount Advice Needed

    Thrust washer dimension will vary depending on vise size, allow a clearance to fit over the threaded sleeve 1/16" will do, and thickness to be about 5/8" , the outside diameter should match the handle boss size. One side is flat, the other is slightly domed to fit to the moving jaw side. (this may have started parallel, but will wear in as the vise is used.) Here is a picture of a vise I recently obtained, on a suitable mounting post. Hope this helps.
  12. John B

    Anyone got much experience of Habermann hammers?

    A hammer is just usually a lump of metal on a stick. Stainless steel is no better in use than a carbon steel one, just more flashy. It's the person wielding it that makes the difference, there is no magic in them. Farrier supply places are the ones where you are likey to get a rounding hammer from, they don't usually make them, they factor them, just like Angele in Germany does. So don't rule them out Typical farrier supply suppliers are http://www.cottamhorseshoes.com/49shoeturningham.html They have a good range of reliable makers and prices. Or you could come on one of our toolmaking courses at Westpoint and make your own
  13. John B

    Leg Vise Mount Advice Needed

  14. John B

    My twist project

    No fire, good choice, you could try modelling clay just to give you a feel for the project. Enjoy
  15. John B

    My twist project

    It must have been done somewhere before, but I just thought it to be an interesting exercise, and it proved to be a nice comfortable handle or centre feature for candleholders etc. Look forward to seeing your finished piece.