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I Forge Iron


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About Cavpilot2k

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    Senior Member

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    South Shore, MA
  • Interests
    Homebrewing, Smithing, Martial Arts, Medieval History,

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  1. Here is the (old?) one I used as a model. It is clearly hand-forged, but its age and origin is unknown. I also referenced that image SLAG posted to get an idea of the range of shapes. It works very much like a sickle, but for tougher material than a sickle can handle.
  2. Hey folks - I haven't been on here in a while, but I've still been forging. Mostly made a bunch of knives for friends and family, but Thought I'd post my most recent project: a Bill Hook requested by the guy that is the live-in barn help at the barn where my lady boards her horse. I didn't know anybody used these anymore, and I am far more familiar with the adapted-to-a-medieval-weapon version of the Bill Hook. I found an old hand-forged example of one a friend had and used that as a pattern. Mine is made from 15N20, hidden tang, mild steel bolster plate/guard and handle is recycled oak household railing left over from a new one I installed a few months ago. I left it brut-de-forge for the most part, for looks and to help prevent rust because I know this tool will get used a lot (as intended). Handle treated with Dark Half from Real Milk Paint (part tung oil, part citrus solvent). Anyway, I am pretty proud of it and being that they are an uncommon tool, I thought I'd post it here for your enjoyment.
  3. Thanks, guys! Can't wait for it to arrive and start using it.
  4. I agree that S7 is way overkill for leather awls, but if you want S7 awls, more power to ya. I made a hot slit chisel out of a 3/4" S7 round. I air hardened by just setting it aside from critical temp. No fans or special airflow setup, just simple air cooling. I tempered it to bronze on the cutting edge and purple on the striking end. It has held up beautifully to a lot of use with no chipping and no deforming.
  5. My brother and I are 5 years apart (he the elder), but we have always been close. Even when we go months without talking because we live half a country apart and life gets in the way. We would do pretty much anything for one another.
  6. Well I was going to try the electrolysis method, but apparently my brother, who is readying the anvil for transport to me, took it upon himself to (carefully) remove the majority of the rust with a wire wheel. Then he applied a wax/oil mix to seal and protect it. I think it looks fantabulous! Can't wait to hit something on it!
  7. Isn't it technically a proximal taper if it is on the tang? (not sharp-shooting you, genuinely asking to make sure I am not misunderstanding terminology). Nice knife, OP. I really like the handle shape. I am putting the finishing touches on my first integral bolster knife - it presents a whole new set of challenges.
  8. Thomas: Mainly for normalization before cold work, but I have started dabbling with raising, which seems to work better with some heat. So far it's just practice exercises with raising, not actually making anything. I've used everything from MAP torches to a large burner for boiling homebrew kettles (80k-130k BTU) for heating a larger area.
  9. True, but similar could be said of steel (maybe 1300 years?). I'm okay with only going back 1000 years ;-) In all reality I would almost prefer charcoal for cleanliness, but coal is easier and cheaper to source, IMHO. That said, I have never worked with charcoal, so my opinion is speculative. For that matter, I have never worked with a gas forge either (only gas burners to heat armor pieces, no actual forging done on gas).
  10. Heck, at that price, I'd go pick up another piece and bed it in another stump on its side right next to the other one. No flipping needed!
  11. I love my coal forge - there is just a primal connection to the craft I feel with it, but sometimes I do long for the ease and simplicity and cleanness and predictable even heat of a gas forge. I know one day I will get one, but it will not replace my coal forge, only augment it.
  12. I'll echo what Mr. Powers has said. Most "real" swords were under 3 lb, with 3 lb being an unusually large specimen. Even things like falchions, which are considered chopping blades were still in the 2-2.5 lb range. You can't go by modern replicas because most were built with the assumtion of their having been heavy. Anybody who ever made a heavy sword obviously never had to wield one for any length of time in battle. Remember, other than those made for ceremonial purposes, swords were battlefield weapons meant to be used for extended periods. They had to be practical and usable. Same with armor. Aside from parade armor and some heavier examples of tournament armor (which was never meant to be used on the actual battlefield), a full suit of 15th-16th century battlefield plate armor was usually only 40-50 lb, with some outliers up to 55 or 60. Remember too that swords were not made to cut through armor. They don't do that - never could, so they don't need to be heavy enough for that. Accuracy and speed with a sword is infinitely more useful than impact force. And battle axes were also far thinner and lighter than most people, movies, and fantasy portray too. Think along the lines of hatchet head weight on a longer handle, NOT chopping axe weight. But I digress... (Sorry, you just happened to touch on a topic on which I could speak for days...)
  13. Wow. That seems like a nightmare to keep track of all those scroll parts and organize the whole thing. Well done, sir!
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