Cavpilot2k

I love this thread because I see so many people acting like anvil-making is a lost art and anvils made prior to, say, 1940, are superior to modern anvils. Sure, the mid 20-th century onward saw a lot of lesser quality anvils, but the technology is by no means lost. A hardened face on a wrought body does NOT a superior anvil make. I've got more anvils than I need (a 173 lb Fisher, and a 120 and 190 ln Trentons) but I look forward to the day when my forge proceeds allow me to buy a new German 100 kilo anvil.

MY hawk , anyway, is meant as a user. Regarding oxide layers inhibiting rust. I could be wrong, but I've always operated under the impression that if a piece of steel is already covered in one form of oxide, that (preferred) oxide will occupy some of the molecular bonds that allow for rust-type oxide. Basically pre-oxidizing it with a non-destructive and preferable preventative oxide layer. Just like the patina that builds on kitchen blades and darkening from acid etching - they serve as a mild rust-preventative when compared to a "raw" polished steel. Again, I am no metallurgist, and I don't completely understand the chemical process, but it is conventional "wisdom"(which isn't always true) that oxide patina helps inhibit rust. I figure tempering oxide colors are a form of such preferable oxide. If I am wrong on this, somebody please correct me!

Thanks. I just oiled it. I know it may not stay, but since they are oxides, I figured not only do I like the look vs polished, they might help inhibit rust. Thanks. Planning to sell it unless I gift it to someone. I've made a few prior, but this is the first one I've felt nice enough to actually sell (I think it's my 3rd or 4th).

Another farrier's rasp tomahawk. They are definitely getting better and cleaner after making several. I was going to polish this one up a little more, but I decided to leave the temper color bands on the face. They don't come through as well in the pics as they do in person.

Yeah, I don't worry about it since I don't care if the burrs are sharp or not, but I am constantly amazed at how sharp these things still are when the farriers discard them. I get cut on these things all the time when I pick them up. I've kept a few aside for hot rasping and wood shaving, because they are so sharp still. Hey, their loss is my gain, because I get them for free. I do both because they lend to very different patterns. If grinding them off to get the open triangle pattern, I anneal them first. If leaving them on and hammering down for a fish/snake scale look, obviously that gets taken care of in the forge.

Another stack of rasps from my local farrier. I've been doing a series of knives and rasp hawks with them. And yes, I always confirm they are good steel, since many are case-hardened. But the two farriers I get them from always buy high end rasps, usually Heller blue and green tang. I know some have said that they have come across case hardened Hellers, but every one I have gotten from my sources has tested out very good. They run $30+ each for the farrier, versus less expensive for the case-hardened. My test, which I do on every rasp before I use it (unless it is from the same lot number as a previously tested one) is to cut off the tang, heat it to orange, quench in water, put in a vise and whack it with a hammer (using eye pro). If they snap cleanly they are good to go. For knives I make from them I had been using Parks AAA, but have moved to Parks 50 for slightly better hardening.

From a merit badge counselor perspective, I am not in and don't intend to be in that role. The friend who asked me to do it is the official counselor. I am merely the subject matter "expert" with the facilities to do the hands-on portion (they have already completed much of the "academic" work).

Appreciate the advice to talk to homeowners insurance people. There will/would be several other adults there, from scout leaders to some of the parents and I have already said ear and eye pro are non-negotiable as well as leather gloves (I don’t wear them, but I accept getting burned by hot scale). Still undecided if I am going to do it but I will check with my insurance company in the AM.

A friend approached me about a scout troop he is working with and there is a metalworking merit badge that nine of their older scouts are trying to get. A portion of it requires hands-on forging basic skills like drawing, bending, and twisting. I want to help out, but I have concerns about liability because I am not set up with my own insurance or LLC for my forge. They have all signed activity waivers and whatnot, but in the event something were to go wrong and someone wanted to sue, I fear I would probably be vulnerable, even with liability waivers in place. Two questions: A: Thoughts on my vulnerability to liability in the event of a mishap? B: Is there anyone else in the area (south shore region of Mass) who is better established who would like to help the Boy Scouts? (caveat: they ideally want to do this thing this weekend, but could push it for a better venue).

Thanks all for the input. I do have some spare old leaf spring lying around, so I will still probably use that, but I won't overdo it.

Question for the gallery about that post vise above: I see it is missing its normal spring. I have one a friend gave me for free that is also missing its spring. My plan has been to fabricate a new spring from a length of good steel, heat treat it, and bring it to a nice blue/purple temper for springiness. For Size and shape of the spring, I will just mimic the spring on the intact post vise I have. Are there any pitfalls with this plan that I don't foresee?

So I have to clean it up still (just a little wire brush), but here is the Trenton I picked up last week. Based on its size, I thought it was heavier, but it weighed in at 190 even. It is 30.5 inches long! Nice edges and excellent condition. I haven't found the serial number yet because I haven't cleaned it, so I can't date it (I don't have AiA anyway).

George - Cool! They had done away with the AO program by the time I got in (mid 90's). I flew the OH-58 A/C both in flight school and in the MA National Guard years after my active duty time in the D model. It was a fun, basic, stick-and-rudder type aircraft, but the D model with its 4-bladed rotor and more powerful engine was a real sports car (until you put a combat load in it). It didn't have top-end speed, but was incredibly agile due to the rotor system. Like driving a Lotus versus a Lamborghini (OH-58D vs, say, Apache or Blackhawk). Yeah, I guess flying in combat in a very vulnerable position does alter your perspective on things. I can't tell you how often I've had people ask "so the glass all around the cockpit is bulletproof, right?" I have to laugh at their faces when I tell them it's just plexiglass and probably wouldn't stop a pellet gun projectile. When they ask what I did, I say "my job was to go find the bad guys before the bad guys find the good guys, and arrange to make them dead, whether by my own ammunition or someone else's (preferable)". Such is the life of a scout. And a lot of my friends didn't make it out. THat's the job we chose. Oh well, that was another life ago. Now I am retired from that, work with computers to pay the mortgage and forge trinkets, tools, and medieval weapons and armor because I am a military history buff. Ain't life grand?

Well, you have the one that looks like two palm trees mugging a dumpster, the one that blows stuff up, the one that delivers chow, and the little mosquito-looking one that skims the treetops like they're looking for lost keys (that was me).

What do you mean "you folks"?!?!?! I flew no air taxi!!! My aircraft only a two-seater - no passengers or crew chiefs on board, just 2 pilots (armed aerial recon - see profile pic of OH-58D).