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About Cavpilot2k

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    South Shore, MA
  • Interests
    Homebrewing, Martial Arts, Medieval History, and now...smithing

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  1. Cavpilot2k

    S7 hot tools

    I'm a novice, but I made a similar rounded slit chisel out of 3/4" round. I nearly ruined it when I oil quenched it before finding out that S7 was air hardening (ever since I check first lol- rookie mistake). Fortunately I didn't use it because it would have almost certainly broken, possibly spectacularly. So I re-heated it and air cooled it then tempered to straw and the thing has been like a rock. Used many times now for all sorts of hot work and not the slightest sign of edge deformation or dulling. I LOVE this chisel, and so will you most likely if you get the HT right. I plan to make another just like it with a straight edge. Here are some pics, because folks here like pics.
  2. Cavpilot2k

    It followed me home

    MOST of these edges are pretty clean in person. The discoloration and large scale flaking off gives the impression of roughness. That said, some of the smaller ones on the right side in the picture are less-than-perfect, but nothing a little file work couldn't fix. They are close enough for my needs. The maker did mention some sort of CNC process, but I don't recall what it was and didn't ask details. But that said, if you can find a swage block in better condition (most of the antique ones I see are in far inferior condition to this one) for anywhere close to the price, you should definitely jump on it. Swages are worse than anvils these days for price. I don't have any skin in the debate - just pointing out that I see what you are saying, and not all of the edges are perfect, but they are better than they look in the pic and better than most antique cast swages you will find. At a fraction of the cost. I'm super happy with the purchase. YMMV.
  3. Cavpilot2k

    It followed me home

    A Guy on Etsy makes them. Not sure of his process, but it surely involves high heat (scale and discoloration on the surface). $100 It is. Cut from a solid chunk of A36. The maker also does them in 4140 for $50 more. After much deliberation, I went with A36, as it might deform a bit on a misplaced edge blow, but the 4140 could possibly chip if it work hardened (they maker said he does not heat treat them, but some hardening could occur due to the heat from the cutting process). Anyway, at $100, it's a no-brainer for someone who doesn't already own a swage block. I can send you a link if you PM me. I think he is currently out of the A36 ones but has some 4140 in stock.
  4. Cavpilot2k

    It followed me home

    Brand new small Swage Block! 11" x 11" x 2"
  5. Cavpilot2k

    making a flatter

    Jennifer, I just watched your flatter video last night - awesome stuff! I just so happen to have some 1" square stock lying around for hardy shanks...
  6. It wasn't cut. It's still intact, just with that one end straightened out from the normal curvature. I picked it up in a scrap yard for scrap price, because it had the dimensions I was looking for in a drift. No. No quench at any point on my end. I just straightened it with one heat and when those delams happened I pretty much stopped work on it. Dunno - got it from the scrap yard in Hanson.
  7. So I picked up an (old?) pick head because it had nice thick (tines? arms? picks? spikes? what are they called?) and I wanted to make a pair of hammer or axe drifts out of it. Yesterday I finally get around to heating it and straightening one of the (tines?) and lo and behold I see what appears to be delaminations from a not-so-great forge weld of a likely high carbon bit/point inserted. I know that's commonplace with axes, but I didn't know they do/did that with picks. Is that what I'm seeing here? If you look closely, you can see what looks like the root of the bit as a wedge nestled in a long, narrow "V" about halfway back. Given what looks like 2-piece construction and given that the weld doesn't seem all that great, will it still make a serviceable drift or should I just scrap it and look elsewhere? I did not spark test it yet, but if it truly is two-piece, there would be no other reason that the point being HC and the base being LC. UNless perhaps it was a repair job rather than manufactured that way. Thoughts?
  8. I've been reading a bunch of these type posts on here lately, as I am selling a few widgets here and there on Etsy. I am by no means offering advice, because I'm just winging it at this point - and I may be wrong and in violation of law, but my understanding is that for small operations, you can just claim it on your personal income taxes via "pass-through" taxation. For instance, if you make a "business" in tax software, like Turbotax, you can claim deductions (like, say, tools and coal), and also claim sales proceeds, and it is all dealt with as part of your income taxes. I'm sure there are advantages to becoming a licensed business, but for hobby businesses, I don't see much reason to do more than that, unless required by your locality. Now I'm not sure about sales tax, because as of my last filing I hadn't sold anything yet - only deducted expenses to get up and running (forge, tools, etc), so I'll have to figure that piece out for my area. I think forming an LLC is a good idea, especially if planning on selling "weapons" (I am mostly interested in historical recreations, not becoming a "knife-maker). Again, I'm just looking into all this too, but am only interested in it as a hobby-business.
  9. Cavpilot2k

    Third damascus

    Very nice! I am trying to muster the courage to attempt Damascus, but since it would be done by hand, without press or power hammer, I wonder if my forge welding skills are up to the task. I guess there's only one way to find out...
  10. Cavpilot2k

    It followed me home

    No ideas? I'm guessing some sort of spring steel.
  11. Cavpilot2k

    It followed me home

    A friend gave me a few scrap cuttings from a railroad trestle rebuild (legally obtained, FYI). They are square cutoffs about 3"x3"x0.5" of the pre-drilled strip pictured this side of the track sections. It looks like they are additional bracing over the trestle. Does anybody know what that piece is called and what it is normally made of? It spark tested medium-to-high carbon. I don't know what I'll do with it - maybe make axe bits out of it or something.
  12. Cavpilot2k


    NIce! That thing is HUGE!
  13. I plan on using the rest of the non-collared portion of my bits for drifts and warhammers.
  14. I'll second the jackhammer (pavement breaker, really) bits. THat bucket pictured above was indeed mine. I got those for nothing. I stopped by a tool rental place and asked if they had some spent ones. I offered to pay, but the guy said no - he'd rather give them away than bother making the trip to the scrap yard for the pennies he'd get for them. I am going to make him something from one of them and give it as a gift. The only downside is that they are a pain to hammer, but it's a good lesson. If you have a 1" hardy hole, they don't even require that much hammering to square up the shank. he built-in collar is awesome. Here is the hot cut I just finished yesterday from one. I left the shank long so that if it gets stuck, I can tap it from the bottom. It fits snug, but not "tight".