Murphyd: that's what I fear as well. When I used to have more time, I'd stop by a local forge now and then. They had a multiple solid fuel setups, it was a lot of fun. 

HojPoj: those are looking good. 

Rojo Pedro: I like it, and congrats on the anvil.

jlpservicesinc: Is there a minimum radius that you would recommend? I've had my Nimba a few months now, and have been VERY slowly hand filing the corners. It might be several more months, before I get where I want- but there won't be anything over radiused haha. My older anvil (big chunk of Mild steel) has lots of more aggressive radius', so I've been shifting to that when I need more. 

Anvil: yes, that is 100% on my wishlist as well. But first I need to save for the torch, in total- it's looking like it's going to cost a pretty penny. However, I'm sure it'll pay for itself in pretty short order. 

Mudman

Not sure how they are in your area but auctions can be a way of finding things like torch set a bit more budget friendly.  Have yet to pick one up but I am also able to walk away from something over my limit and not get carried away.  Last two auctions I went to had a set each and they went for almost retail.  I am, if nothing a patient man, cheap, yes but also patient.

KiltedWonder: auctions seem like a good place to hunt, I just never have the chance to make one. I don't mind spending the money on things that will last a very long time, just a matter of saving up. I've kept my eye on local ads, but 90% of them are oxy/acetylene. The propane setups that I do see, are almost retail also.  

Personally I do exactly what you are doing.. I sneak up on it very slowly.. 

the immediate area just behind the horn and a smidge  (widest flat bar I will work is the distance) from the hardie hole gets about a 3/16" radius.. But this also gets snuck up on.. It just gets there quicker and I start with just over 1/8" radius right away..  (of course a project will come in and I'll goof it by a cold shut so this helps me move a little faster)

I'm very conservative as I know what radius has to be where, but I hate to make a mistake and take to much which is easy to do with a grinder.. 

I have hand diamond flat sharpeners I use for removing the corners.   the Peddinghaus was hard enough the file would skate. 

I suggest taking the time but the area that is needed right away to be done I'm a little more likely to remove it quicker.. The rest of the corners can take awhile to get where I like them..  It's been nearing 2 years I am still applying radius to areas of the anvil I find I am using more.. . 

Rebuilt my portable anvil stand. Lowered it two inches (buy replacing the block with one rabeted to fit lower) changed the tool loops for racks and rebuilt the clamps

Charles, how is the new forge working out?  Love the stand..  Why lower?  and how much compared to the traditional knuckle height..  Just curious nothing more..

I lowered it from wrist to fist high. That is 32 from 34”. This gives me first knuckle when wearing my riding boots.

i bent the racks with the vise and heated it wit the forge. It’s a fuel hog compared to my JABOD experiments but it taught me what I needed to know to build a side blast fire pot. 

6x11”, 3 1/2” to the top of the tuyere and 6” deep over all. 7/8” ID (3/4” schedule 40 pipe) tueyer. 

The 70# anvil is easer to tote around than the 120# one. 

That is cool..  Thanks for the info..   For shoeing I use a stall jack that is maybe 36" tall..  

For real forging it's only 31..  I find this give me full range of motion with the hammer...  

I'm a little curiours of your firepot design?   You run coal or charcoal?  I thought I saw charcoal in another picture.. 

The heat colors look great on it. Many people thing it can only be black, steel color looking. Adding some heat colors is really a nice effect. Ya did clearcoat it, right?

Had a fun visit with IFI member Judson Yaggy at his home forge. He showed me how he makes tongs on the power hammer, and we knocked out a quick pair. 

(His half is the one with the very clean taper on the rein. What can I say: I’d never used a power hammer before.)

That sure came out looking nice Mudman, well done.

 

4 minutes ago, JHCC said:

What can I say: I’d never used a power hammer before.

After wracking my mind for what feels like an eternity of moments I think. "I'd never used a power hammer before." Pretty well says it all. I don't see an appreciable difference in the reins, nice job.

Power hammers are fun aren't they?

Frosty The Lucky.

I am exceedingly envious of just about everything in Judson's shop, not least what he paid for his fly press.

2 minutes ago, Frosty said:

I don't see an appreciable difference in the reins

His is stamped with a "Y"; mine, with a "C".

Nice John. I have to say I'm a bit envious of all the great people here you get the chance to visit. 

At least you're one of them!

Well Thanks.

Travel for me lately is very limited unfortunately. 

jlpservicesinc: thanks, I'm trying to be very gradual with it. A snales pace if you will. 

Charles: that's a handy setup, those turning cams(?) on your anvil are neat. 

Daswulf: thank you, it was completely unintentional. The hook no longer fit in my forge, so I tried using a propane hand mini torch thing. Next thing you know, this is what happened- wasn't what I was aiming for, but I sorta like it now. I wonder if I could use the house oven to heat it up for waxing, I know my mini convection oven didn't work out so well. 

JHCC: those tongs look perfect to me! 

Frosty: thank you, it was a really head scratcher project for me. Took longer than expected to finish- due to my own lack of time. 

Yes you could use the home over to heat up for waxing.something like that tho I would use engine matt clearcoat on. Just my opinion and liking. Holds up a bit longer than wax. 

I'll look into that Das, thanks. 

If you do go that route, I will say from experience that Duplicolor is my favorite for sprayability, finish and quickness of drying. I'm on the verge of going to an automotive clearcoat personally, just for the UV protectant but as of now the flat or matt engine clearcoat has been faithful to me. 

I don't get too many opportunities to coat anything forged, most of my projects are just real small basic stuff. But I do like the idea of a clearcoat. 

 

Mudman love the bracket.. 

JHCC..  Well done..   Judson is a great guy...   I love you are making the rounds to all the smiths..  You are on a journeymans journey of sorts.. Very cool..  You will have a museum of sorts with items forged from many.. 

Very cool..       He had heat in his shop right..  

He’d been working on a beautiful headboard, so the shop was nice and warm. Afterwards, I had dinner with his family, and there was much warmth there as well!

The pot is set up for both coal and charcoal. Unlike bottom blast forges side blast forges with 3/4-1” tuyere burn either fuel equally well. 

I rarely carry a “real anvil” on the truck, having a track head welded on a piece of 2” shafting that handles 90% of what one needs an anvil for. 

I'm with you..  I just prefer a charcoal forge side blast with the sides more like a Japanese side blast or more in line with the ability to push something through and build up depth via captured walls.. Was curious since you actually have a pot.. 

Nice..  so do you like the anvil lowered better?  To soon to tell?