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I Forge Iron

TRR1143

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About TRR1143

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    Lexington, KY

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  1. Cutting a hole would likely be the best solution practically, but it's also quite permanent. In the event that I don't bring this shed if we move, the new owner likely wouldn't see the use in it haha. At present I have a few concrete blocks leveled out underneath where the anvil sits and I have a wide deck jack bridging the gap. The improvement is actually quite decent, definitely better than I expected, but I'll be curious to see how it holds up to repeated abuse. It's fairly easy to access the underside to check though. If it ends up failing I'll probably end up using some cribbing.
  2. Hi everyone, I moved about a year ago for work and initially lived in an apartment without much room for forging. This past summer I finally was able to move into a house with enough room for a small shed shop to primarily use for forging. After working through HOA requirements I was able to get a 10x12 building (pre-built) to get started. I'm not so much concerned about that size of the space, I've worked previously in part of a garage that was that size or smaller. I just wanted to run my progress by some more experienced folks on here and seek some advice on a few topics that I am encounter
  3. Made my first set of bottle openers yesterday. Fairly simple, but they work. Made the punches last week, they get the job done.
  4. Finished a set of Poz Tongs today for 3/8" stock, derived from the instruction from Black Bear Forge. I really like the style and they turned out decent enough. I'll make another set sized for 1/4" soon.
  5. Finished my first set of tongs today, flat jaw tongs following the demo by Black Bear Forge starting with 5/8" square stock, I found a large nail laying around and used the head for the rivet. They're pretty rough but they'll hold things, learned a lot from the process too.
  6. Welcome to IForgeIron Nathan, you may want to add your location so people have a general idea of where you are located. I'll go ahead and share the prevailing initial advice for this forum, go ahead and read some more through the Forges and Burners 101 threads on here. There are a great list of instructions and recommendations on how to build a great forge. Many other more experienced members on here are also usually more than happy to help, they gave me great advice and help on my own build. You'll tend to find that 2x 1" thick layers of a kaowool material, ridigized is the go to fi
  7. The cast nozzles were made using 3D printed forms that mimic the 1:12 taper spec that seem to be the standard. The taper starts approximately 1/2” into the lining measured from the shell. Once up to temperature the forge is only running around 8-10 psi. I’ve tried cranking up the pressure some but it doesn’t do much besides speed up the sputtering sound.
  8. Cleaned out the tips this morning and the forge worked fine again. Tested the temperature with a small piece of copper, which melted readily when the forge was up to temperature. Copper melts around 1980-1990 F or so, so I’d guess I’m north of 2000F somewhat. Pleased with that. I was then working on a set of tongs and that front burner started sputtering rapidly again. I’ll clean the tip out again, maybe some tape from a fitting is coming through but I can’t help but wonder if it’s due to the heat or something. I also noticed that the top door tracks were glowing a dull red on either sid
  9. And by "heat issue" I mean for the burner components, sorry.
  10. After trimming more tips for these burners they're pretty close to even with each other, but the front burner is still running hotter. A new tip on the back burner took care of the excessive "richness" that it was showing. The flames themselves also look fairly similar. I decided to run the forge up to temperature and stick some steel in there to see how it performs, and, given that I was under more optimal lighting, I might dare to say that it's looking rather yellow to me, although I kind of want to order a thermocouple or something to measure the temperature so I know for sure. The dragon's
  11. Bending the tip didn't seem to do much, and I went ahead and replaced the tip on the back burner, as filing it down some more didn't do much. I was too aggressive with the tip file. I went ahead and made another pair of T's, making sure that they line up with the mixing tube. I'll swap those out and see how it goes.
  12. I guess I'll find some more T fittings and try and do a better job at centering up that hole for the MIG tip just right. And by "lifting off" you mean how the flame tends to wander from the flare opening, which looks to be a problem with both burners, correct?
  13. I run tip cleaners through them pretty thoroughly after I sand each little bit down, I saw what you meant and ran the cleaner through again. Shaped up a bit better.
  14. I've since placed the burners back in the forge. I started tuning the front one and I think it's pretty close, definitely improved. I've been working on the back burner and have trimmed off quite a bit of the tip, but it still appear to be weaker than the front one and tinged green, but it's shape improves whenever both burners are running. I'll post pictures below. YouTube link here. Front Burner Back one, not as clean a cone. Likes to smoosh into the floor initially, cleans up when both are running. Both running together, front one is clearly hotter. Fr
  15. Got it. I'll stick the burner back in the forge and start testing. Thank you for your help Mikey, I appreciate it.
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