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What did you do in the shop today?


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Dereck is a cool and knowledgeable guy; I would definitely pay attention to his methods and recommendations!

3 hours ago, Chimaera said:

while it was a massive pain

If you get it hot enough, it forges like butter. Think snowball-white.

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3/8" round for the ring, 1/2" square, tapered, for the post, and 1 1/4" x 3" x 1/8" flat for the mounting plate. 

The post is tapered some and the end drawn out, upset corner then scrolled around to hold the hoop in place. A 1/4" tenon on the bottom for the mounting. 

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I made new "jabod" ruinig old rim to make it.

 

I have question for charcoal forge users or coal users , how you heat long pieces, i wanted to heat my tonga project and i couldnt because all fuel was under it i cant dip it in fuel.

 

There is top plate in wich this rim fit in.

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22 hours ago, LeeJustice said:

How does the resin hold up to wear and tear?  Scratches, scrapes, etc.,  Must one treat it with great care?  (Everyone should treat their things with care)

The resin is strong enough. But I usually use flexible "glass" The resin is easy to grind.

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14 minutes ago, natkova said:

IF i did that my embers will go away to that cutout.

 

This is one reason we don't recommend using a wheel rim for a fire pot, they're too large and it's too hard to access the hot spot with long stock. Disk brake rotors make much better fire pots as they're not so deep and are easy to adjust with a little packed clay. A steel topped table with an angle iron rim and a hole to set the brake rotor in makes a really nice forge. You can store coal or charcoal on the table top and rake more in as needed. The stock can lay on the table and be well in the fire if you need it deeper just prop up the outside end. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Good day everyone. And good work seen here as always. 
It has been awhile since I’ve been on here and a bit since I’ve hit some steel. Now that I’ve landed and stable, I’ve started up again and have a question. How does one go about hollow grinds without a belt sander?

 

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5 minutes ago, Frosty said:

This is one reason we don't recommend using a wheel rim for a fire pot, they're too large and it's too hard to access the hot spot with long stock. Disk brake rotors make much better fire pots as they're not so deep and are easy to adjust with a little packed clay. A steel topped table with an angle iron rim and a hole to set the brake rotor in makes a really nice forge. You can store coal or charcoal on the table top and rake more in as needed. The stock can lay on the table and be well in the fire if you need it deeper just prop up the outside end. 

Frosty The Lucky.

WEll i cout it out so it is not that large.

 Maybe deep only 3 -4 inches but i feel like iam wasting fuel.

That can be overcome by cuting slot higher and puting pipe ther.

I used sheet metal since i could weld  good floor for it.

I placed sheet metal and i put clay over it

Well i will play along it.
Fuel just need to be gathered at one place, i need bowl for that, i noticed smaller pieces dotn fly off and its better that way.

 

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Well they used to use large natural stone grinding wheels turned by water wheels with the grinders laying belly down on a board and slowly grinding blades to the curve of the wheel.

Otherwise I don't know of anyone doing hollow grinds without a belt GRINDER with the appropriate contact wheel.

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You can do a hollow grind with an angle grinder.  You have to adjust the angle of the grinder to the steel to get the depth of the hollow grind.  Also, the grinding wheel changes shape and size as you use it, so that creates some additional challenges. If you want to do it with any real precision you would need to build a rig that holds the grinder at the same angle and also keeps the grinding wheel in the same proximity to the knife edge.  It's much harder than using a belt grinder with a contact wheel, but it can be done. 

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6 hours ago, 671jungle said:

How does one go about hollow grinds without a belt sander?

Only thing I can think of is a really big grinding stone, but it would just be easier to get a belt sander. I've got a little WEN 1x30 from home depot, and while it is a bit slow it gets it done and only costs $100. I'm sure you could make some kind of rounded piece that can be bolted onto the back plate, giving it a radius.

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I'm expecting the DPS (digital phase shifter - alternative to VFD for converting 1-P to 3-P) for my surface grinder to come in today. I'm thinking of using it to hollow grind my new concealed carry blade. It was forge welded from two pieces of wire rope of opposite lay that were cannister welded with 1084 powder separately. I'm disappointed with the pattern so far because after welding and drawing out the strands all ended up parallel! Oh well, next time I'll super twist them before putting in the cannister. 

I don't know what to call this besides a boot knife, although I intend to weld a ring on the end somewhat reminiscent of a karambit for the pinkie. The guard and handle sections will hopefully be from some hardware that has been in my leg for the past 16.5 years. I'm getting it taken out tomorrow. The short edge will be hollow ground but the long edge will be slack-belt. 

My intention is to cut the plate up, braze a large piece for the guard and braze smaller pieces for finger separation and fill the gaps with epoxy/monofilament wrap. 

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PB, my daughter got you beat. 2 plates and 18 screws in her ankle. She was laid up in the hospital for 2 weeks with metal bars to hold everything stationary. Then sent home becuase of a blister that had to heal until they could do surgery. That was over Christmas before last and becuase of the whole covid thing i could not even visit her in the hospital. She was taking out her trash and slipped on ice, so this past Christmas one of her presents was cleats for her shoes.

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