Buzzkill

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  1. Why is my leaf spring steel cracking?

    If his semi half cousin Ford shows up the probability increases dramatically.
  2. Normalizing-Hardening-Tempering?

    The pinned topic in this section will answer most of your questions. However, there may still be a couple things that aren't clear to you after reading it a couple times. For normalizing I heat to non-magnetic and let it cool down to black heat (not cool enough to hold in your hand) before reheating back up to non-magnetic. If you detect a warp immediately after quenching but your blade is still several hundred degrees, you can usually straighten a slight warp before it cools to room temperature. This is a little risky and you can snap a blade if you go to far. There are a couple other methods of straightening without repeating the whole process. Some people clamp a warped blade between two straight pieces of thick flat stock and leave it that way for tempering. You may also want to look into the "3 pin" method in which you isolate the warp and heat only the spine to straighten the blade. I've asked a similar question on here before and was told (by Thomas Powers I believe) that number of times steel is brought to a certain temperature is more important than the time spent at temperature. One of the reasons for the suggested hour or more at temperature is to make sure the entire piece of steel has been thoroughly tempered. A word of caution if you draw your temper using the color method: Once the colors start running, they go very quickly so make sure you have water or some other quench medium immediately at hand to stop the temper at the right spot. If the steel is only a few hundred degrees in temperature it will not hurt anything to dunk it in water or any other liquid that will take the heat away. Also, straw color is correct for some alloys for knife blades. It would not necessarily be correct for other alloys or applications. You'll have to look up the heat treating information for the specific alloy you are working with in order to know the proper temperatures to get the most out of that steel for your intended application.
  3. Super steel/Damascus/

    It bears more than a passing resemblance to the Daedric dagger in Skyrim. Not sure how practical it is, but it is some interesting eye candy.
  4. Hardening Mild Steel

    Any idea as to the purpose of the table salt? Chlorides are notorious contributors to stress corrosion cracking (even in stainless steel), so I'm a bit puzzled as to why it would be included in the recipe.
  5. Blademithing series on History channel

    Congrats Theo! Can't wait to see you tell some more blacksmith jokes
  6. JABOD forge melt the concrete coating?

    Looks a lot like the results I got when using a refractory mortar for the lining of a gas forge. It was supposed to be rated to 3000 degrees F, but at high temperatures it got sticky, kind of like peanut butter, and when it cooled it was glass-like. You don't really need something like that in a solid fuel forge anyway. Dirt/clay/ash should do fine without any refractory coating.
  7. T Burner Illustrated Directions

    We have a different understanding then. My understanding and limited experience is it works better to place the end of the burner or flare about a half inch inside the the shell, give or take a little, which puts it about 2 inches from the forge interior if you are using 2 inches of blanket and a half inch hot face material. I usually cast the burner ports with refractory material though, so there is refractory from the shell to the forge interior in that one spot.
  8. Tempilsticks, anybody use them?

    I've never used them, but I am interested in your opinions after using them some, so please keep us updated if you have anything further to add.
  9. T Burner Illustrated Directions

    Don't get too concerned about the flame wanting to blow itself out - as long as your burner is tuned well. Once the inside of the forge is glowing hot the flame pretty much cannot blow itself out any more. I generally let mine run about 5 minutes or so on fairly low/stable pressure before turning it up. Once it's glowing hot inside I can go to max pressure with no problems. If I did that when I first light the burner it would definitely blow the flame off the end of the burner. You may need to trim the tip a little. Your flame looks to be on the rich side to me, but I don't consider myself to be an expert in burners or interpreting photographs of their flames.
  10. Borax Fluxing Multi Layers

    John, This forum is read by a lot of people. Even if we understand what you mean, other people who read the forum may not. Some of the terms have a specific meaning and if we conflate terms then it gets very confusing to others. There are differences between forging and forge welding in both the desired outcome and the temperatures used. When forge welding we are typically using a significantly higher temperature than we would be forging at, and we're just trying to get all the pieces stuck together so that we have one solid piece of steel. We're not really trying to manipulate the shape of the steel at this point. When we forge we will usually lower the temperature and move the metal into the desired shape. We don't do that until we're reasonably sure that we have created one solid piece of steel. Attempting to forge before successfully forge welding will cause your billet to separate (delaminate) and you'll have to start over.
  11. T Burner Illustrated Directions

    Is the sputtering happening only at low pressure, high pressure, or throughout the operating range? Is there any chance a breeze (from any source, even a fan) can reach the air intakes? It doesn't look likely that you have an issue with recycled exhaust gases, but that is a possibility. If you have the 2nd burner built already you may want to try it to see if the symptoms persist. That may help narrow down the possibilities.
  12. General help on a brick forge/ needing info

    I am not going to try to read his mind. I don't think he knows or understands enough yet to help us help him. On the one hand he talks about "melting cups" and melting scrap steel in order to produce a bar of iron, and on the other he says it's not casting. It's not smelting from ore if he's talking about melting scrap pieces, and if he's going to melt the scrap pieces then he will effectively be casting the liquid unless he's interested in crucible steel. I told him where to look to get an idea of what is involved there. He also says he wants to do what they did with their scrap in medieval times and referenced melting it again. We're pretty darn sure that in general scrap pieces were forge welded together and then forged out for use. Until he learns enough to know what it is that he's really after I'm not sure how much more we can help.
  13. T Burner Illustrated Directions

    When you fire it up again, if it starts out ok, but then goes back to sputtering it's not likely to be an obstruction. If it sputters immediately again and won't burn at the end it could be. Even though you cleared it out, if a small particle came loose and lodged in the jet you could get those results. Most likely though it does have to do with the flare being down inside the forge.
  14. T Burner Illustrated Directions

    One thing he has done is to extend his flare into the forging chamber rather than just past the outer shell. This makes it likely that over time the burner tube will get hot enough to ignite the fuel/air mixture inside the burner tube rather than at the end. The longer that continues, the closer to the jet ignition can take place. A couple other things that can cause those symptoms are a fuel tank that is nearly empty and a fuel tank that has cooled from the rapid use of the fuel so that the pressure has dropped too low to produce a stable flame at the end of the burner. Yet another possibility is an obstruction in the fuel supply line or the jet itself.
  15. General help on a brick forge/ needing info

    I can only use the information that you've given us. You've specifically said you wanted to know about a "melting cup" for iron or steel. Melting is not just changing the physical form, that's changing its physical state. If you just want to re-shape bits by getting them hot and hitting them with a hammer, that's forging. If you want to take 2 or more pieces of steel and turn them into one piece of steel without them becoming liquid, then that's where forge welding comes into play. Either of those two options are much easier to achieve and much less dangerous than taking them from the solid state to the liquid state. I would strongly encourage you to look at those options to get what you want rather than trying to deal with molten iron or steel. Thomas Powers can tell you about the medieval ways probably, but I'd guess they were much more likely to forge weld scrap pieces together than they were to melt the pieces.