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About Buzzkill

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    Central Illinois

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  1. Buzzkill

    What did you do in the shop today?

    If you polish up the insides to a high shine that should reflect a lot of light back at the wall for a soft light - maybe even a heavenly glow around the bust.
  2. Buzzkill

    Forge and filing problem.

    If you want consistency the first order of business is to get the stock as nearly perfectly flat and uniform thickness as possible from forging. Small variations can be removed with the file, but anything significant that makes one side stick up higher than the other when it's clamped in place will inevitably result in non-uniform bevels at the end. If you get it flat and uniform thickness, then you can use a magic marker or something like Dykem on what will be your cutting edge. Use calipers or other method of finding and marking the center of the cutting edge the full length of the blade. Determine where you want your plunge lines. Use a chainsaw file to cut your plunge lines in on both sides down to about a dime's thickness. That will establish your desired thickness and it should help you figure out the angle needed on your filing jig to set the bevel where you want it. Watch as you are filing. If you reach the edge thickness you want before the bevel is up as high as you want it on the blade then you will need to lower your eye bolt height. If you reach the bevel height you want on the blade before reaching the edge thickness you want then you'll need to raise your eye bolt height. Whether you use a jig or do it all by eye it will take some practice to get the results you want.
  3. Buzzkill

    Cleaning the old work table

    Unless it's a good hammer.
  4. Buzzkill

    BD1 Bandsaw Clamp

    Nice idea. It looks like half an outer race from a large bearing might work well there too.
  5. There is more than one way to grip and swing a hammer without causing yourself any problems. However, there are some "techniques" which are indeed known to cause problems. For instance, resting your thumb along the length of the hammer handle when striking will send the shock of the impact through your thumb and into your arm, and that will cause damage over time. Another known issue is, as TP said, gripping the handle too tightly. If you do this you'll most likely feel pain on the top of your arm (with your hand palm down) near your elbow. If you are gripping too tightly and continue to hammer that way you will end up with tennis elbow. The grip on the hammer should be loose enough that someone could fairly easily pull it from your grasp. To avoid it slipping out of your hand while you are working you can leave a flare or knob at the end of the handle which is larger than the rest of the handle. I was surprised at how much material I removed from "standard" hammer handles sold at big box stores in order for them to be comfortable to me when smithing. YMMV.
  6. Buzzkill

    Propane Bottle Forge Build

    I may have made an incorrect assumption, but before I started using ribbon burners, when I would apply the refractory layer I'd leave the holes for the burners big enough so that I could change how the burners are aimed inside the forge. My mounting tubes on the outside of the forge were more than double the diameter of the mixing tube and they had several bolts to hold the burner in place and change the aim. Since the end of the burner was about 2 inches up inside the hole from the forge chamber, it would be possible to aim the burners so that the flame cone could make contact with a wall of the hole cast into the refractory. If you cast the end of the burners directly into the refractory that shouldn't be an issue for you, but you've already discovered that technique leaves you no room for adjusting the aim of the burner. It's not as big of a deal as you seem to think it is. As Frosty has mentioned, the holes can be changed/enlarged and it's not a huge deal to change your burner mounts on the outside of the forge. That's stuff for the future. Right now you do not have functioning burners and that's where you should focus your attention. Is your forge even 16 inches long in total? Even if it is it seems like you are convinced there's no way to make what you have work. Several people here are attempting to help you get what you have working. All you have to do is take a little advice, make one change, then report back to us with the result and we'll move on to the next one. We obviously don't know everything, but those of us trying to help have successfully built forges and burners that do what we need them to do. Even if you think we're wrong it will only cost you a little bit of time to make some of the changes, and a fraction of the cost of the forge you were looking at for other changes. Why not give our suggestions a shot?
  7. Buzzkill

    Propane Bottle Forge Build

    If I understand you correctly you are saying that the distance between the mixing tubes is greater where the tubes enter the forge than the distance between the tubes where the fuel lines are attached. In other words the tubes are pointed slightly towards the openings at both ends. If that is the case it's not ideal, but based on the pictures I don't believe that angle is enough to cause major problems unless the flames are aimed in such a way that they are hitting one side of the hole in the refractory before entering the forge chamber. The main problem as far as I can tell is the burner construction, not the burner orientation. If you can get good burners mounted on that forge and close off most of the area on the ends with firebrick you should have something that works ok. The flames are leaving the forge (or appear to be) because not enough oxygen is being supplied to the fuel inside the forge. So, what's happening is some (a lot) of the fuel is burning outside the forge where there is enough oxygen for combustion. That creates the large flames you are seeing out of the ends of your forge. Well tuned burners will draw in enough air to provide the oxygen for combustion inside the forge. Then you'll have mostly hot exhaust gases and much less visible flames outside the forge chamber. Make sense?
  8. Buzzkill

    3/4" burner seems way too big!

    Are you set on using that cross, or are you open to trying the specified T? I'd be very interested to see how the flame characteristics change by just swapping out the cross for the right T. It looks to me like you still need more air mixing with your propane. However, I don't have a good handle on the effects of additional turbulence at the air intakes, mixing tube, or the flare on the flames, so that could be part of the problem as well. For a 3/4" diameter mixing tube I've not had to go smaller than 0.030 mig tips to get a good fuel to air ratio, but I can't swear that going smaller would be wrong. One of the things I was playing around with shortly before I went to ribbon burners has been discussed on here a bit. Instead of a reducer fitting at the end of the burner tube, a larger diameter pipe which can be slid up and down on the burner tube can really help out with flame stability and finding the sweet spot for performance. With the reducer fitting you're stuck with the dimensions and location when you thread it on, water putty notwithstanding.
  9. Buzzkill

    3/4" burner seems way too big!

    It's definitely an improvement over the first thing you showed us. However, it's still not where you want to be for a burner in a forge. Look at the still shot of the video you posted last. Notice the white blob right at the end of the burner. First off it's not centered on the burner tube, so unless there was wind blowing or something similar that indicates your jet is not aligned well with the mixing tube. Next, you really want as much fuel as possible to be consumed in that area where the white blob is - though what we're looking for is a blue cone or parabola shape right there. All that excess blue flame beyond that point is a secondary (or tertiary) flame envelope which doesn't burn as hot as the primary cone right at the end of the burner. Mikey has posted or commented a few times on here when he's found a picture of a flame that is perfect or very close to it. Those are what you should be striving for. You want minimal or no flame envelope beyond the cone at the end of the burner. What you have right now is much more likely to bring your forge to a higher temperature than what you showed us at first, but you'd probably have a hard time getting to welding temperatures. It will definitely be using more fuel than a well-tuned burner would.
  10. Buzzkill

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Bummer. It looks like it was coming together well up to that point. On the bright side, if there is one, you get to see you grain structure at the break and assess your heat treatment.
  11. Buzzkill

    Propane Bottle Forge Build

    This is definitely a bad time to throw in the towel. You are getting close to having a functional system that you built yourself. I haven't seen the inside of your forge where the burners enter, but unless those are horribly wrong all you have to do is get a few parts and spend a little time to get reasonably functional burners operating and then start hammering.
  12. Buzzkill

    Burners problems in forge

    It's not ideal for getting a good swirl. If it could be done without moving the mounts, I'd aim a little higher on the wall. I don't think he can aim at the near side of the floor with mounts as they are. Still, if he blocks off most of the ends and it gets to welding temps I wouldn't lose much sleep over it.
  13. Buzzkill

    Burners problems in forge

    Looks much better to me. If it gets the temps you want then it's probably good enough. If not then hopefully one of the gurus can get help with the final fine tuning.
  14. Buzzkill

    Propane Bottle Forge Build

    This probably isn't what you want to hear, but I think you'll be better off starting over again on the burners. Frosty and Mikey both have burner designs on here and they can help you with tuning issues - if you build them according to the directions. You should be able to use some of the components of those burners, but right now they are so far off the mark that I don't see it as worth your time to try to modify them. I really believe you'd spend less time and money and have far less frustration if you start over with them. I'll admit that part of me has a hard time with the concept of going to YouTube for burner building instructions when you have plans from, and the ability to interact with, the designers here.