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Buzzkill

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  1. The flame color should be a good "medium blue" when it's neutral. Somewhere Mikey has shown a picture of a "perfect flame," but I don't remember where it is at the moment. If the flame is light blue or has a green tint to it that's an indication of a fuel rich burn. In the picture on the left it appears as though combustion is happening at the opposing wall from the burner rather than at the end of the burner tube. That's what I mean by blown off the burner. Sometimes that's just due to the speed of the fuel/air mix being faster than the rate of combustion. After the fuel mix leaves
  2. To me it looks like you may have gone just a little too far with the choke opening. The flame in picture on the left has a purple hue to it, which is an indication of a fuel lean (oxidizing) flame. It also appears to have blown off the end of the burner, but that may just mean you're running a little bit more pressure than needed before the forge gets hot. It looks like your setup is outdoors. Keep in mind that sunlight tends to affect our perception of colors a bit. The picture on the right shows a forge easily hot enough to forge weld high carbon steel, and probably hot enough to we
  3. I decided to try forge welding a billet (1095 and 15N20) for a blade without using flux. I have some kerosene, so I chose to soak the stack in kerosene after arc welding the stack together and also arc welding a short bar on the stack to grab with tongs. I'm using a propane forge, btw. The initial weld went fine. I had a solid billet with no apparent delaminations or dark lines as it cooled. After drawing it out, I hot cut the billet in the middle (leaving only a thin layer uncut), brought it back up near forge welding temperature, used my butcher brush vigorously on the mating surf
  4. More thongs when blacksmithing? I'm not sure any of them are truly better or worse for our application. Hopefully you are wearing something over those. To my eye the flame shape looks good, but it appears to be burning fuel rich if the color in the picture is what you are seeing with the naked eye. If you open the choke a bit that should help you get an even hotter forge. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with it.
  5. Welcome to the forum. If you haven't already done so, it would benefit you to take a little time to read through the Read This First topic, which you can access from the blue bar at the top of the page. That will help you get the most out of the forum. It appears to me that at the time that picture was taken your burners have an excessive amount of gas compared to the air they are inducing. The more burners you have in a given space the more opportunity there is for conflicts between the burners. They can compete for air at the inlet side, although with the design you used it's not li
  6. When your performance degrades it's time to stop for a while (or a day) and come back later. Too many times I've tried to power through "just 15 more minutes and I'll be done," only to make an error that took much longer than 15 minutes to correct. You can try to switch to a lighter hammer, but if you're having the symptoms you described it's most likely time for a lengthy break - especially if this is a hobby.
  7. I have not forged A2, but I have forged O1. It can air harden in thin cross sections. I was forging a knife when it happened to me.
  8. This may very well have affected the integrity of the steel in that area. Hopefully it just caused some surface decarburization, but it's likely to be more severe than that. If you quenched right out of the forge with that part of the blade overheated you most likely have large grain structure in that area which tends to mean a weak/brittle section where it was overheated. In the future you may want to consider using a piece of pipe or steel tubing that you can put in the forge and then put the blade inside that to help with more even heat distribution and also avoiding direct flame imp
  9. To me it looks like you probably got it too hot before quenching - at least in the area where you are seeing the pitting/deformation.
  10. Welcome to the forum. If you haven't already done so, you should read the Read This First topic which you can find in the blue bar at the top of the page. That will help you get the most out of the forum. The threads we have on gas forges and burners are some of the most active on the forum, and as a result they tend to be quite lengthy. However, nearly any question you will have has probably already been answered there. Here's a couple links to get you started: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/46536-burners-101/ https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/47439-forges-101/ If you
  11. Welcome to the forum. If you haven't already done so, please read the Read This First post which you can access through the blue bar at the top of the page. It will help you get the most out of the forum. Without being able to see the flames from your burners it's hard to make any real judgments about the burners. There are also a number of substandard design issues with the forge. We typically recommend choosing one proven and effective design from an experienced person and follow it strictly for your first attempt. Once you have a better understanding of how things work then y
  12. True TP. I failed to observe the location. If they have coins similar to ours the principle still applies. Otherwise I guess it's sourcing nickel, copper, etc in small sheets to get the same effect.
  13. As a side note, I'm not sure there's enough of a difference between 304 and 316 to give much contrast even if you do manage to get those 2 forge welded. Since the whole point of pattern welding is to see the pattern afterwards, you want to ensure your starting materials will provide the contrast you are looking for. A more or less standard combination for knife making is 15N20 and 1095 steels. These weld well together, produce good contrast, and still have the characteristics desirable in blade steel after welding. Since you are going for something "purty" rather than functional, I'd s
  14. Deimos, now we're on the same page. For a while I thought I was missing something obvious that everyone else was easily understanding.
  15. Agreed. I put distal tapers on full tang knives for balance reasons frequently and as long as the surfaces are flat it doesn't really matter that they are tapered. You compensate for whatever minor change in thickness exists as you remove the scale material to get the desired feel in the hand.
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