Buzzkill

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  1. First, the disclaimer: These are all guesses, but I don't have enough info to provide anything more than that. It could be the "wrong" kind of steel, but that seems a little unlikely for a hammer. A lot of old used hammers are some combination of mushroomed, chipped, and cracked. Any cracks will most likely open up a lot more when you forge, so it's best to grind any cracks completely out before forging. Lastly, and this will seem odd at first, it is possible to be both too hot and too cold at the same time. Here's what I mean: If your fire is raging hot and you put the piece in, the outer portion will heat up and start glowing fairly rapidly. However, the center of the steel may still be at black heat. You could have a situation where you are burning the outermost part of a thick piece of steel, but be below forging temperatures in the middle. The thicker the piece, the longer the "soak" time should be. This comes back to fire management.
  2. I definitely made some assumptions as to what alloy was probably being used. There's also a reason I used the word "may."
  3. I have a few observations for whatever they are worth. First is your tempering color. It looks like you may have drawn the blade back a little softer than is usually preferred for a knife edge. Next, I'm not sure your blade wasn't/isn't straight. What it looks like to me is those areas you circled were hammered thinner than the areas around them. When you grind you have to take more off the thicker areas in order to get down to the thinner areas. It just takes practice to get reasonably consistent thickness across a blade. This is especially true when starting out: Forge thick and grind thin. Also, the heat treat itself can cause warping. The thinner the blade the more likely it is to warp during the quench.
  4. In the second picture of your first post it's quite obvious that your drive wheel is way out of alignment with the bottom wheel of your platen. You can get by with a small variance, but not that much. As already mentioned you can check the alignment with a straight edge and adjust the motor location to get it right. The further out of alignment you are, the more friction created and therefore the hotter your wheels will get too. With my grinder the closer the tracking wheel is to the same height as the top platen wheel the better it tracks as well, but that could just be my build and not a generalization.
  5. Momentum, inertia- however you want to phrase it. The more mass you have moving at speed the more it wants to continue in that direction. When it grabs you have to provide the equal and opposite force or it gets ripped out of your hands, assuming it doesn't turn the disk into a shrapnel grenade. A 9 inch disk has approximately 1.65 times the area of a 7 inch disk. If they are made of the same material at the same thickness that's already a significant increase. If the 9 inch disk is thicker it's even more. The difference in RPM's does come into play, but right now I don't feel like doing all the calculations to see which one exerts more force when it grabs. In general though, smaller = less damage when things go wrong.
  6. I thought they called it rice coal due to the Rice Krispy popping effect
  7. Looking good. You've probably seen this before, but imho the ceramic belts are worth the extra cost. They cut better, run cooler, and last longer than the alternatives so the up front cost is more than offset by the performance.
  8. Thanks for the link. I looked around a bit and also came to the conclusion that there wasn't really a better "cheap" solution. I ponied up for a gallon of the Juice and so far have only stabilized one piece of elk antler, but if it stays liquid and treats as many pieces as I think it will, the cost per stabilized piece will be fairly insignificant. It is a little pricey up front but appears to be worth the cost. If I run into anything negative I'll let you know, but so far so good.
  9. I'm in the transportation business hauling mostly bulk liquids in cargo tankers made from stainless. After repairs we usually have the inside passivated with a weak nitric acid solution and then the repaired area polished. The tanks are either 304 or 316 stainless steel. My understanding is that stainless will generally get the chromium oxide layer which significantly retards corrosion anyway when exposed to oxygen, but passivation is much faster and provides a more uniform layer.
  10. I'm kind of partial to Monty Python's take on philosophers in their "Bruces Philosophers Song."
  11. Assuming you are casting this so that the axe eye is vertical you could make a post in the shape of the eye from whatever material you would use if you were doing lost wax casting. If you embed that in your sand that should retain your eye shape and you can just chip it out after the bronze cools - I think.
  12. That is fantastic! Your snakes are getting so good that I think a lot of people would mistake them for a live critter at first glance.
  13. Don't overlook the possibility that someone in the past had a sense of humor similar to Thomas Powers. Didn't he say a couple times that he was going to leave behind objects for no other reason than to confuse/confound people in the future?
  14. Thanks for the tips. It was kind of a head-slapping "duh" moment for me, but I hadn't thought of that.
  15. Maybe, but with the thermal mass of the oil it will hold temperature a lot better. Toaster ovens tend to bleed heat badly, cycle frequently, and are therefore much less likely to provide a steady temperature. Don't get me wrong. I use one for tempering, but if the temperature on the fryer can be reasonably controlled and maintained I think it could provide better results.