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I Forge Iron

Buzzkill

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About Buzzkill

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  1. Standard 7018 rod is a challenge to use with an AC only buzz box. The 7018AC rod works much better, but I always end up using significantly higher amps than the same diameter of 6011 or 6013. For 7018 rod especially, keep an old file nearby that you can use to rough up the end of the electrode if it has cooled down. That makes striking your next arc much easier.
  2. My personal experience is different than yours. I agree in the sense that it takes a certain amount of fuel combined with the right amount of air to produce a certain level of heat per unit of time. However, I get plenty of swirl in my forge using a naturally aspirated ribbon burner. I also get a far more even heat than I did with a single port burner. There is no noticeable hot spot anywhere in the forge once up to temperature. My forge is quite small - around 240 cubic inches. It also seems to me that since the smaller flames lose momentum more quickly than a single larger flame, more
  3. I'm fairly certain it's illegal to have a flat horizontal surface that large with no appreciable amount of clutter on it. I've never used unistrut on anything, so I have no frame of reference here, but I'm curious if you have trouble with debris falling in and making it difficult to slide items along the channels.
  4. Yeah, but what's more fun and satisfying? Pushing a mower around someone else's yard or playing with fire, steel, and hammers? Plus after succeeding on a project like that there is a profound sense of accomplishment that has significant benefits to mental well-being. At least that's the type of reasoning I use to justify my actions to myself and my wife when engaging in a project that doesn't appear to make economic sense.
  5. Since you are using a blown burner this is mostly irrelevant. Too small an orifice can limit the gas flow and therefore your max temp, but you do not seem to have that issue. The only real value of a small gas inlet orifice like a mig tip on a blown burner is creating pressure in the supply line that you can reference with a gauge which will allow you to "dial in" specific temperatures that you can repeat easily. You still have to adjust the air supply properly, so even that is of limited value. If you're getting the temps you want then there is no need to change it. If you can't get
  6. Keep in mind that the size of the drive wheel makes a big difference in speed and power. The bigger the drive wheel the greater the speed (surface feet per minute), but the lower the effective power. Normally you see drive wheels in the 3 to 5 inch diameter range even with 2 or 3hp motors powering them.
  7. Interesting design. A couple thoughts though. If it has a belt tracking adjustment I didn't spot it in the photos. The variation in belts makes that a necessity. Secondly you will need a flat platen, but I assume there is a plan for that. Most importantly, that is not nearly enough HP for a 2x72 belt grinder. You really want to be in the 1.5 to 3 hp range if you plan to do any real grinding. I stalled a 1 hp motor frequently with moderate pressure before I upgraded. Looks like TP beat me to it and with pretty much the same issues.
  8. First the disclaimer: I haven't used fibre board or the specific castable refractory you've used. However, the last 2 or 3 gas forges I've built tend to get uncomfortably warm on the outer surface of the shell after running for an hour or so. I can place my hand on the surface briefly (about a second or so) with no burns or damage, but I can't rest my hand on the shell for any length of time before it's too uncomfortable. I'd guess the temperature is between the upper and lower limits you gave. I will also say it depends a little on what I'm doing. Running at forge welding temperatur
  9. Generally speaking, a choke on a T burner is a step backwards. When properly tuned a T burner pulls in the right amount of air for the volume of fuel being injected across the operating pressure range of the burner. So, if you have to choke the burner then it wasn't tuned properly to begin with, and most likely is not burning as hot and as efficiently as it should be. My personal experience with a NARB powered by a T burner is that it tended to run richer than it had as a single port burner. I had to make some modifications to allow more air to be induced, which is the opposite of what
  10. Finally got this one done for my brother in law. Blade is 1095 and 15N20, hollow ground on an 8 inch wheel. Hand sanded to 1000 grit after grinding and then etched in coffee. Guard is stainless, and handle slabs are water buffalo horn. Overall length is about 12.5 inches.
  11. I have limited experience casting and have never tried cast iron. However, I do know that you need to be able to melt more material than your finished product will weigh. Typically there are risers, sprues, and/or runners which will contain some of the melted metal, so you need to compensate for those things. In addition most castings require some cleanup or machining which will also reduce the final weight. I have built a heat treating oven which uses 110v. I built it to pull slightly under 15 amps. Just to heat the interior of the oven up to 1950 degrees F takes about 3 hours. Tha
  12. It looked stainless rather than plated to me due to the fine machining marks that would probably be covered, or at least not as defined, if it were plated. However, at least one of the wear surfaces appeared to have rust, so I'm reserving judgment. If it is non-magnetic it is almost certainly stainless. If it is magnetic it could still be either plated or stainless, depending on the alloy.
  13. First off. The party size helium tank is fine. There is more than one size, but if it's comparable to a disposable refrigerant (freon) tank then it's a good size for a first propane forge. I used one for a while with a single 1/2" Frosty T burner and was able to forge weld in it. However, if you think you are frustrated with getting odd-shaped pieces placed properly to heat a specific section now, that will only be magnified with a gas forge. Small gas forges do quite well with straight or nearly straight pieces that need less than 12 inches heated at one time, but when you are dealing
  14. I hate to tell you this, but those burners appear to be substandard. I found some pics of those on ebay, and the flames shown in the pictures leave a lot to be desired. If those are indeed 1" burners and you used Wayne's plans, then a single one of those burners should be overkill for that size of forge if they were of good quality. Two of them in a forge that size is ridiculously overpowered. What I saw was extremely rich flames, which translates to lower temperatures and a LOT of wasted fuel. Then there's the risk from excessive carbon monoxide production. The good news is that if
  15. Yes, it's basically an oversized 1/2" T burner. I started off attaching the same single port 1/2" T burner I had used previously to the plenum. However, once I attached it to the plenum I always had a significantly rich burn no matter how short I trimmed the mig tip. The standard 3/4" T setup with a .023 mig tip gave me a lean burn, so I bought a 3/4" schedule 80 pipe nipple and that seemed to give me what I was looking for.
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