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I Forge Iron


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About Buzzkill

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    Central Illinois

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  1. I'm interested to see how this holds up for you after you use it for a while. Did you get the 110v or the 220v version?
  2. Any chance she will let you use it but she still retains ownership of it while you make and sell things to buy your own, or maybe make things for her until she says you are paid off?
  3. You were clear enough. I was just illustrating that you can get a heavier, higher quality, brand new anvil for significantly less than that estimate. If she won't part with it for sentimental reasons then anything you offer will seem like an insult after that bogus estimate. You'd be better off looking for a different used anvil or improvised anvil than pursuing that one imho. Take a look at this thread for some functional, but far less expensive ideas for anvils: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/52308-a-collection-of-improvised-anvils/
  4. If the antique dealer thinks it's worth $4K, then have your girlfriend's mom offer to sell it to him for $3K and take that money to buy a brand new 275 lb. Refflinghaus (or similar) anvil for around $2300 and pocket the change. Anvil prices are somewhat location dependent, but a good quality anvil in fair to excellent condition should normally be in the $2.50 to $4.00 per pound range in the US. That one looks closer to "fair" condition than "excellent" to my eye.
  5. Buzzkill

    Forges 101

    I used a power supply from an old PC for the one I built a few years ago. Most of them show which wires carry the various voltages. I believe I used a 5 volt output for mine since the 12v output turned the nichrome wire I used red/orange quickly. IIRC I scavenged the nichrome wire from the heating element portion of an old hair dryer I used for an air supply for a forge for a short period of time. Hard to get all the waves out though, so I did buy a couple feet of wire cheap off Amazon later.
  6. This may be one of the few places that refractory cement or mortar actually has a good use in a forge. I'm not sure the cracks are big enough to be able to fill with cement or mortar though. those cracks would not prevent me from using the forge though. You'll definitely want to monitor them to see if they get worse. Unless you sift the Kastolite to get the bigger aggregate chunks out I don't think you'll be able to get any noticeable amount into the cracks. You could rough up the surface, butter and apply more Kastolite, but it would be more like a patch over the cracks.
  7. TP, that clicks in my head better. Thanks for the explanation. I think I have my mind around it well enough to have an idea of what to expect now. Thanks for staying with me until something sank into my skull.
  8. Hopefully I'll get a chance to try this a few times this weekend. In the interest of making sure I understand what is being said though.... So, if I want to end up with a hole with a 1 inch diameter, then I should make the initial slit probably somewhere between 3/4 of an inch to an inch long to minimize the change in thickness when drifting? Frosty, if I want to end up with a 1 inch diameter hole, but the slitter has sides over 1.5 inches, won't I end up with kind of a tear-shaped hole rather than a circle? Or as the sides which are parallel to the slit get pushed out it pulls the sides perpendicular to the slit inward to end up with a circular hole? I think I may be missing something there.
  9. Makes sense. I just wasn't sure if drifting a hole the width of the starting stock might stretch, and therefore thin, the material as the hole gets bigger. I'll probably try a slit and drift, maybe a punch and drift, and possibly even drill then drift to see what works best for me. Thanks for the suggestions.
  10. I'm planning to forge a couple karambits using slitting/drifting for the large finger ring. The plan is to end up with a hole of 1 inch (maybe slightly larger) diameter with the material a quarter inch thick and a quarter inch wide around the circumference of the ring. Is there a rule of thumb for material starting thickness in terms of how much thickness will be gained or lost by drifting? For example, if I were to drift a 1 inch hole in quarter inch thick flat stock that was an inch wide, could I expect to maintain quarter inch thickness after completing the drifting? I can, and will, do a couple test pieces first, but if there are some general guidelines or expectations for change in material thickness, that could help me get started in the right direction. I'd rather not mess up a pattern welded billet if I can avoid it with some good advice.
  11. Does the beading up happen with plain water or only when trying to apply the rigidizer? If you made the rigidizer yourself did you make sure you got hydrophilic colloidal silica rather than hydrophobic? I have no experience with that particular brand of insulation, so I have no idea if it is the underlying issue or the rigidizer.
  12. I think this may also explain how 3rd party logistics companies have gained a foothold. They decrease efficiency, they create extra work and expense for everyone involved, and pretty much no one who deals with them directly has a positive opinion of them (that I've talked to anyway), but in *theory* they decrease costs by increasing competition. Of course when you ignore the importance of longstanding relationships and overall service, frequently the "cheap" option ends up being the most expensive option. If you can pull up a nifty screen on your computer that shows a bunch of information in real time it must be better though, right?
  13. No, but it gave him a splitting headache.
  14. No. I know that in the US we run on a different frequency than in the UK. Whenever I have to deal with anything other than our normal 110v circuit I do a lot of reading and/or consult with people who know more than I do. I'm certainly not confident in giving anyone else advice in that area. IFC, that's another good idea I'll be borrowing when/if I have to make another drive wheel.
  15. That's pretty much what I did for my drive wheel as well. I clamped the motor to a work bench (with the correct amount of shims for height) and used a piece of RR track as the tool rest. My motor runs faster by a few hundred rpm, but it worked fine and the drive wheel is still doing fine after several hours of use.
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