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About Buzzkill

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    Central Illinois

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  1. Even on a cloudy day, the outdoor ambient light will still throw off your color perception compared to indoor medium to low light. If you will be forging outside one suggestion I've seen that may help is to put a bucket or barrel on its side close to the forge at a good height so you can have a place to check the color that is protected from daylight.
  2. Did you mean "refluxed and back into the forge"? That combination should be fairly forgiving, so my vote goes to overheating, but there is a possibility that a really cold anvil could cause contact quenching to initiate the cracks. I still think the main problem based on what you've given us is the billet got too hot. Working in daylight with coal can be an art form in and of itself.
  3. Are you supposed to open owls from the top or bottom? What happened on the first attempt - did you get beaked? Kidding aside I like it a lot.
  4. And there's also "Summer black 'n summer missing>"
  5. Because of the function of a kingpin I would expect it to be in the low to mid carbon range. It definitely needs to be tough rather than hard, but it also needs to be resistant to deformation in order to serve its purpose well. I would have thought it would be in the 30 to 40 point range for those reasons, but as was already suggested it's a good idea to test an unknown piece before spending the time and fuel to make something out of it. I'm guessing most of us have done it at least once. I know I did. If it has 30 points or more of carbon you still may be able to harden it some with superquench. The recipe for that is somewhere on here, but I don't remember where off the top of my head.
  6. Chainsaw files work fairly well for this. I mark the cutting edge of the blade for the thickness I want before heat treat and the bevel height I want on the blade. I then cut in the plunge lines on both sides with the chainsaw file using those marks to tell me when to stop. Now I have a good guide for the rest of the blade geometry. Hope that makes sense to you.
  7. The proof of the pudding is in the eating. If it works it's good. I tend to constantly dip my blades in water to cool them when grinding, and that probably wouldn't work well long term with a wooden structure, but I'd take that over a HF 1x30 or a bunch of hand filing any day. I'd guess it could handle 1.5 hp for a while anyway.
  8. I'm not sure you ever said if your welder is AC only or AC/DC, but I can tell you that if you have AC only then regular 7018 rod is a horrible choice for a beginner. To have any reasonable amount of success you'll need high amperage and you will have constant issues with striking an arc or even losing the arc partway through laying a bead. If you have the option for DC reverse polarity it should be a completely different experience. The 7018AC rod is also a different (much more pleasant) experience. 6011 and 6013 rods are reasonable beginner rods, but they do penetrate more deeply, and that can mean blasting holes in thin stock. The key is (surprise, surprise) practice. I find the more time I spend welding, the better I get ....... at grinding. Seriously though it is worth the time to grind through some of your welds to get an idea of how deep the penetration was and if you actually did a good job consistently fusing the 2 pieces together. You are spot on with fixing the vision issue first though. If you can't see the arc, the puddle, and at least a little bit of the surface you are welding, your chance of success drops significantly.
  9. Some have free shipping, and depending on where you live the taxes might be less than a local supplier. Depending on how closely you want to watch the pennies you can also factor in the cost of gas to drive to get them and your time as well. If you have a local welding supply shop they can probably get what you want in a fairly short period of time if they don't have it on the shelf. I see Frosty was replying while I was typing....
  10. If you can't find it locally, Amazon carries most of the common electrodes.
  11. Regular 7018 rod is a challenge on an AC only buzz box. (it likes DC reverse polarity IIRC) However, I have used a decent amount of Forney 7018AC rod and have found it to be a pleasure to use. One of the things I like about it is I have much lower frequency of blowing holes through relatively thin stock compared to using 6011 or 6013. YMMV.
  12. Is Ozzie helping with that project?
  13. Pretty much what he said. When you want to remove a lot of metal in a short period of time use low grit (24 or 36) name brand ceramic belts like Norton or 3M. It is amazing how fast they can shred steel. Keep in mind that they can shred leather, flesh, and bone even easier. This is one of the reasons to use the belts like they are free. When they get worn we tend to apply more pressure which makes it more likely that something will slip and send our fingers into the high speed belt. I use ceramic up to 120 grit and then switch to Al oxide or SiO2. Like he said, for wood (or things like micarta) if you want to remove a lot of material quickly use a coarse grit at low speed. Running too fast will burn the material and/or plug up the belt quickly. I've tried a few belts that appeared to be bargains, but generally I find the best overall bargain is a quality belt from a respected name. They cost more up front, but they tend to run cooler, cut better and longer, and track better on the machine. I have a love/hate relationship with the Trizac belts. Normally we're using the really fine grits for final finish, which means blades are thin. The high grits develop heat very quickly and you can ruin the temper on what will be the cutting edge in just a few seconds if you're not careful. The last few grits are painstakingly slow for me. Just a few seconds on a low to medium speed belt, then back in the water to cool off.
  14. There was some discussion on here about whether the internals of the hand connections have flow limiters built into them. I don't know for sure one way or the other. I use the system in the 2nd picture down, which has the left-handed threads and does require a wrench. However, I don't have to change the tanks out so frequently so that it is more than a slight annoyance to go find the correct wrench or adjustable wrench to make the change. I also have more confidence that the POL fitting tightened with a wrench is less likely to leak than the plastic hand tightened connection. This may just be a perception thing on my part though.
  15. "If you didn't care what happened to me And I didn't care for you We would zigzag our way through the boredom and pain Occasionally glancing up through the rain Wondering which of the buggers to blame And watching for pigs on the wing." Pink Floyd