Buzzkill

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  1. Buzzkill

    Craft vs. Art

    Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but then again so is the contact lens.
  2. Buzzkill

    Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burner. Photo heavy.

    I haven't tried it, so I can't say for sure, but it occurs to me that it's unnecessary. Unless you were using a very long ribbon burner and had concerns about the fuel/air mix reaching the end ports, any needed increase in fuel/air can be accomplished by using a larger diameter mixing tube with a corresponding increase in jet size. If I were contemplating the 2 scenarios you gave, I'd opt for 2 separate burners rather than a single burner with multiple inputs. It seems to me that there may be a number of unforeseen complications with more than one input.
  3. Buzzkill

    Anvil stand question?

    With respect to how much the anvil resists moving around in use the answer is "yes". In terms of rebound or efficiency of the anvil itself, a full penetration weld could potentially add a little bit, but probably not worth the trouble. Anything less than a full penetration (or successful full length forge weld) will not have any appreciable impact on the rebound properties of the anvil. I use a steel tripod anvil stand with the anvil bolted to it. This is mainly to reduce the ring of the anvil when struck and to decrease the amount the anvil moves when struck. Personally I do not consider whatever small gains could be attained by welding the anvil to the stand to be worth the effort. Fastening an anvil securely to the stand using easily reversible means is well worth it though IMHO.
  4. Buzzkill

    Chef's Knife - Hand Forged 52100

    I think it's gorgeous. If it feels good in the hand (and it looks like it should) and performs well I've got zero suggestions for improvements. Looks like a top dollar knife to me.
  5. FWIW, I've had good success with .023 mig tips in 1/2 inch T burners. I've typically had to trim them back 1/8 inch or more to pull in enough air to make them slightly reducing. One way to find the right spot on the T to drill the hole is to screw the mixing tube into the T, place the mixing tube on the slightly parted jaws of a vise or in a piece of angle iron oriented like a V (with the T over the edge so it doesn't raise the mixing tube up), and then use a felt tipped pen or marker fastened to something that won't move around and about the right height to draw a circle on the T as you rotate it. The center of the circle is then centered on the mixing tube regardless of where that happens to be on the T. Center punch the middle of your circle then screw the floor flange on the other end of the mixing tube and drill as outlined in Frosty's instructions.
  6. Buzzkill

    forge insulation questions

    Welcome to the forum! If you haven't already done so, take a few minutes to read this topic: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/53873-read-this-first/ Anything that says "cement" or "mortar" is made to stick things together rather than to be subjected to constant flame impingement. It may work for a relatively short time, but it is not a suitable substitute for something like Satanite or Kastolite. Two inches of fiber blanket is recommended, but most of us use 2 layers of one inch thick 8 lb. density blanket rated for at least 2300 degrees F. Yes, you should rigidize the blanket. You can make the rigidizer yourself from fumed silica and water. I've not worn a respirator while installing the blanket although it would probably be a good idea. Anything that filters out small particulates should be sufficient. The real danger is in extended exposure when the forge is in use. Microscopic pieces of the fiber can become airborne and settle in your lungs which will eventually cause significant breathing problems. Rigidizing the blanket significantly decreases the chances of that happening, and sealing the rigidized blanket with a hot face layer like Satanite or Kastolite is better yet. It would be worth your time to read through Forges 101 to glean a lot of specifics about forge design and construction. It is a quite lengthy thread, but it has the answers to most gas forge questions contained in the many pages. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/47439-forges-101/
  7. Buzzkill

    T burner tuning question

    I'm still not understanding, Mike. It certainly appears as though you are saying he definitely needs a longer MIG tip. Are you saying that once the centering issue is remedied he will have a lean burning flame and will then need to replace the tip for tuning purposes?
  8. Buzzkill

    T burner tuning question

    To my eye his burner is running extremely fuel rich. Shortening the mig tip should lean out the mix a little. However, if he's burning very rich with a short mig tip I'm not understanding how replacing it with a longer tip and then trimming it back will help. The easiest thing to do here is move up one size in mig tips to see if that will get you running on the rich side. If it does then you can start to trim it back. That will have a much more profound impact on the fuel to air ratio than changing the mixing tube length a little. In your case the gaps will probably only help since that allows more outside air to be drawn into the forge (potentially) which would help with your fuel to air ratio. I'd focus on getting the burner running right before worrying about those gaps. One way to check if your mig tip is centered is to use pressurized water (a garden hose should suffice) and connect it to your gas fitting at the T. You can then observe the water stream in relation to the mixing tube walls to see if you are centered well. Also, earlier I asked if you were using schedule 80 pipe for your mixing tube. If you are then that will have significantly decreased the inner diameter of the mixing tube compared to what it should be and that would tend to make you run very rich. Schedule 40 (which is "normal" water pipe) is what you want to use here if you aren't already.
  9. Buzzkill

    Forges 101

    Sure. For the sake of discussion if you were forging a number of items that required a greater distance from floor to ceiling to fit in the forge easily you may want to make that job easier on yourself. You still have to pay attention to the overall volume of the forge chamber so you don't try to operate outside what the burner can handle, but you will most likely find that some pieces won't fit into your forge chamber the way you'd like. I have 2 sheet metal screws on each side holding the outer shell in place on my forge. So far I haven't made any other shells, but it will be quick and easy to change them out when I get around to making others.
  10. Buzzkill

    T burner tuning question

    He said it's a 1/2 inch burner with a 4 inch mixing tube. I personally use 4.5 inches, but do you think that half inch would make that much of a difference?
  11. Buzzkill

    T burner tuning question

    The flame should be holding steady at the end of the burner tube or flare. I don't think the exhaust from the forge could produce that pronounced of an effect, but I've been wrong before. It's best not to have anything that can slow down the flow of the fuel/air mixture in the tube. If there is a lip it would probably be best to remove it, but it still seems odd to me. You aren't using schedule 80 pipe for the mixing tube by any chance are you?
  12. Buzzkill

    Forges 101

    First off, the updraft configuration. I have done this and there are some good reasons or advantages to this style IF it is in a flat floor with a removable shell. That allows you to put different size and shapes of shells on without having to worry about cutting and/or casting a burner mount in each one. However, it does eat up some of your floor space. For pieces that aren't straight and flat you may find that they only fit in your forge with some of the stock blocking some of the flames from the burner. For a cylinder with a NARB I'd suggest looking at this thread for a reasonable compromise: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/60067-it’s-finally-burning-a-first-build-story-photo-heavy/ You'll probably be better off using something other than PVC for casting the tube. Someone on here (Frosty maybe?) talked about rolling a section of linoleum into the right shape so that after your casting cures you can roll it inward to release it. I've used cardboard sonotubes and just burned them out after the casting cured. I've never used bubble alumina so I can't help you there. I don't know about canting the burner holes either. However, if one of your goals is to create a swirl (and that's a good thing) I don't think you want the flames of the different rows fighting each other. For me at least, the forge gets up to temperature well with holes that just point straight out of the burner block. It would be a potentially interesting area of experimentation, but it's certainly not necessary to have any angle to the "nozzlettes" coming out of the burner. Yes, you can cast extra holes and plug some of them later if you find that you have too many. When I was determining the correct number of holes needed for my NARB I cast way too many holes to begin with and had to plug off 6 or 7. I just used small pieces of ceramic blanket for a temporary plug and then I recast the burner once I determined the right number of holes. If you planned on a more permanent plug I'd suggest covering any blanket plugs with a little castable refractory to seal in the fibers. Since a NARB has no blower to force the fuel/air mixture out the holes, the number and size of the holes have to provide the right amount of back pressure when the burner is in operation. Too many holes and the burner will backfire (flame burns briefly inside the plenum) even at moderate pressure. Too few holes and the flame may be blown out as you increase the pressure. A little bit of flame lift off the face of the burner is normal when everything is cool, but the flame should not blow out completely.
  13. Buzzkill

    T burner tuning question

    I'm not sure why you're getting those results, but from what I can see and hear there isn't nearly enough air being drawn in with the fuel. At 10 psi that burner should sound almost like a small rocket engine. Is there anything that decreases the diameter of the mixing tube or restricts the flow in the tube between the T and the end? I would suggest you try a smaller mig tip, but if you're already using a .023 tip I don't think there's anything smaller that is commonly available. In the second video is the flame holding at the end of the mixing tube? I couldn't tell for sure. It kind of looks like the flame has blown off the end and all of the combustion is happening away from the burner tube.
  14. Buzzkill

    1st burner almost done...

    The key is getting the hole centered to the mixing tube. Sometimes the T's have threads that are not cut perfectly in line with the drop and the seams are not always dead center. Someone on here made a setup to drill the T from the inside that worked well. It involved a small pipe nipple and a plug that fit the inside diameter of the pipe nipple. The plug had a hole in the center the right diameter for the drill bit. That way the hole was drilled so that it had to be centered on the mixing tube. If I remember correctly he used the same system to tap the hole from inside the T. Sorry if I didn't explain that too well. If I find the thread with the pics I'll link to it. Or you can use this technique given in Frosty's instructions: If you don’t have a drill press, find a hole saw that will slip into the T and replace the hole saw’s pilot bit with the 5/16" drill bit. The hole saw will then act as a guide to center and align the drill bit straight down the center of the burner tube. You might have to grind the teeth off the hole saw to get it to fit and move freely in the pipe T.
  15. Buzzkill

    Modified T burner

    Hello Justin. Welcome to the forum. If you haven't already done so, please take a few minutes to go through the topic below so you can get the most out of the forum: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/53873-read-this-first/ Without a picture of the flame your burner produces when it's mounted in a forge it's pretty hard to judge how good it is or isn't. There are a few things that jump out at me though. The first is your T. If that T is 3/4" on all openings it may not allow enough air to be induced to get the most from your burner. We usually use a T that has 1 inch openings on the "sides" and 3/4" for the drop. Next is your mixing tube length. Eight inches isn't horribly long, but it's a bit longer than the recommended length. What that means is it may be a bit longer than the optimum length for getting a good fuel to air mixture without friction slowing the velocity of the fuel/air mixture too much before it exits the mixing tube. Is that in the forge or outside in open air? If it's in the open air that would suggest to me that your setup isn't allowing enough air to be pulled in or that the tube length is causing enough of a reduction in velocity that the flame can stay attached to the end of the mixing tube without a flare. While this may be desirable from the point of view of a stable flame, it is almost certainly not as hot or as efficient as it could be. Also a #57 sized orifice is a little bit larger than what I've seen work well for that size diameter mixing tube. You are most likely running a fairly fuel rich flame, which again can aid in flame stability but tends to run cooler and use more fuel than is optimal. I'm not trying to rain on your parade here, and the proof is in the using. If it hits the temps you need in a fuel efficient manner then it is a success. I'm just comparing it to similar burners I've seen work well.