Buzzkill

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About Buzzkill

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  1. Buzzkill

    Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burner. Photo heavy.

    The only difference I can see in rotating it 30 degrees is secondary combustion may not be complete before impinging on your stock. If you look at the video of his swirl the visible flame diminishes to almost nothing about the spot where your stock would rest on the floor. I don't see this as a major concern, and it may even be a moot point once the forge is up to temperature, but it is a slight difference.
  2. Buzzkill

    Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burner. Photo heavy.

    For burner placement and orientation I like Daguy's setup. It has great distance between the burner block and the opposite wall, it induces significant swirl, and it doesn't take away much, if any, of your floor space. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/60067-it’s-finally-burning-a-first-build-story-photo-heavy/ As far as the tube orientation, IMO extending down is better for the reasons you gave. I've only used horizontal, or nearly so, tube orientations, but I can think of no reason your idea wouldn't work as well or better than other options.
  3. Buzzkill

    DIY Micarta

    I've also used fiberglass resin to make micarta. I've used blue jeans, cotton shirts, and construction paper with good results. The resin by itself cures to an amber color and changes the color of most things I've used roughly the same as wetting with water. Once you mix the resin your time is limited, so make sure you have everything laid out before mixing. Put your stack in the order you want, have your boards, or whatever you use to compress the layers coated with wax paper and ready, and set your clamps so they are open where you want them. Time goes fast when you're trying to saturate 20 or 30 layers of material and get them stacked properly in about 10 minutes. Disposable nitrile gloves should go without saying, but I'll say it anyway. You should be able to use acetone to clean resin from surfaces that you don't want it on before it cures.
  4. Buzzkill

    Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burner. Photo heavy.

    A NARB does require the right number/size of holes. Too few and the flame will lift off the block and possibly blow out. Too many and you'll get backfires or the flame will burn inside the plenum even at medium to high pressures. If you get it right you can run down as low as 1 or 2 psi without backfires and up to 20 psi without blowing the flame off the block even before the forge is hot. If you introduce your fuel/air perpendicular to the outlet holes I don't think there's any benefit to a baffle and it may possibly degrade performance. I'm not sure a blown burner would really need a diffuser or baffle either if the fuel/air mixture was introduced that way. I haven't tried it so I don't really know though.
  5. Buzzkill

    Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burner. Photo heavy.

    I haven't used a blown ribbon burner, so I can't compare to that. However, I can tell you that my NA ribbon burner is significantly quieter than the single port burner it replaced. There is still a small amount of roar, but it's quiet enough to carry on a conversation at normal speaking volume or listen to the radio at a reasonable volume within a couple feet of the forge. At normal forging temperatures it wouldn't stand out against normal background noise if you were more than a few feet away. When I crank it up to forge weld it would be noticeable, but not overwhelming or horribly annoying. I think I use slightly less propane with the ribbon burner, but it does require a certain amount of fuel and air to heat a given space no matter how it's delivered. For me the real benefits are noise reduction, fantastic operating range, great flame stability, and more even temperatures inside the forge. I see no reason to go back to a single port burner at this time.
  6. Buzzkill

    Air regulator for force air forge

    Possible? Sure. Great idea? Maybe, maybe not. You're after low pressure high volume air for a burner, which is exactly the opposite of what an air compressor provides. Now, if you use significantly larger diameter pipe to deliver the air and there's some distance between the air inlet and the burner, that combined with your regulator will produce the effect of lowering the pressure significantly. However, in the long run it will possibly put more wear and tear on your compressor than the $40 difference you are talking about. You can frequently find suitable blower motors for cheap or free. I used the blower from a power vent water heater that had to be replaced when I started. Others have used bathroom vent fans, bouncy house blowers, reverse flow shop vacs, hair dryers, etc. Personally I prefer some of the quieter options since things like hair dryers or the bouncy house blowers are noisy and annoying fairly quickly.
  7. Buzzkill

    Knife won't harden.

    If the parent stock hardens in oil or water then it sounds much like my experience. I hardened a piece of the spring I had cut the blade stock from and it skated a file like glass. On my blade a file bit in easily on the surface, which is what made me think it didn't harden at first. Something different could be going on with your situation, but I wouldn't be surprised if you have hardened steel a millimeter or so under the surface.
  8. Buzzkill

    Knife won't harden.

    I've had one coil spring blade that did not appear to harden in oil or water. After 4 quench attempts it had developed a fairly significant warp, so I figured I'd straighten it cold because it hadn't hardened anyway. Long story short, it snapped with moderate pressure. It turns out it had a much thicker decarb layer than I'd ever seen before and there was hard steel under it. This may or may not be true for your piece. If you don't mind a slightly shorter blade and a little extra grinding you can clamp it in a vise with a half inch or so of the tip sticking up and then hit it with a hammer. If it snaps off you have hardened steel. That will also allow you to see the grain structure if it breaks. If you can hammer it 90 degrees and it doesn't crack or break then it definitely did not harden in a manner suitable for a blade.
  9. Buzzkill

    Hello All

    Yeah, those are OSA's (Odd Shaped Anvils) not ASO's. Let the confusion begin
  10. Buzzkill

    Walter from Nelson, BC

    If you don't bundle the floor stretcher with the wall and roof stretcher you're just wasting money.
  11. Buzzkill

    Anvil Stand question

    If your past work that I've seen here is any indication, I have no doubt that you'll come up with something that works well for you. I'm also a steel tripod guy. I don't have a permanent forging area (yet) so I have to set up each time I forge. The steel tripod is fairly light, it's stable, and I can fairly easily use a modified dolly to wheel the stand and anvil where I need to go. If I didn't have to move it a lot I might want something with more mass or something bolted down, but unless I'm using a hammer around 4 pounds or heavier it stays put well either on a concrete slab or in dirt.
  12. True enough, but I was making a specific reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sprrQ1OLW6g
  13. Strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government......
  14. You and me both. One of my sons was looking over my shoulder while I was looking at some of Mark's work here on the site and I remarked that I'd like to spend a few days learning from him if I got the opportunity. My son said, "He looks like a teenager." I said, "He is." Then he questioned the wisdom of learning from a teenager at which point I informed him I'm happy to learn from anyone who knows more than me, which Mark clearly does.
  15. Of course that assumes the same acceleration in both cases. I'd be surprised if you indeed do have the same acceleration as a hand hammer. However, I'm guessing Mark may be thinking that he can do the same amount of work in the same amount of heats with a hand hammer as you can do with the treadle hammer even though he said they appear to have about the same amount of force.