Arthur210

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About Arthur210

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Quebec City, Qc, Canada
  • Interests
    Historical recreation, archery

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  1. Literally followed me home... new trailer, 50" x 97" and 2000 lb load capacity. You can see my previous trailer on the left. The new one has about 2.5x the volume and 4x the load.
  2. This one sounds fine. Smooth turning and a bit of noise from the gears at higher speed, but I think that's normal for these. I may have to add some oil or grease in it, I haven't had time to inspect it more closely to determine which.
  3. A small manual grinder. Announed on Facebook locallu (less than 10 min drive). At $5 it was a an easy decision and will be useful for my portable setup. It turns smoothly. Any advice on how to clean up the stone?
  4. Hi Frosty! Indeed, I'm aware that the pot won't last forever and will burn out eventually. It will be interesting to see how long it lasts, considering that I spend less than 10 hours a week at the forge. If it lasts a year I will consider it worth my time. Most of my forge sessions are about 2 hours, so the 5 minutes I spend reshaping the dirt before lighting up the forge, plus sorting out pieces of vitrified sand out of the charcoal, may make the steel pot a big plus. Or not. Time will tell! Note that the steel is from the inner wall of a wood stove I cut apart, so I strongly suspect it is not mild steel (methinks it sparks too much for that). This may increase its resistance.
  5. Well made Fowllife, looks like professional-quality work to me!
  6. Hi Laynne! Consumption is pretty much the same as a JABOD bowl of the same volume. The main problem with the JABOD is that every time you use it, you tend to enlarge the depressinon in the dirt when moving the coals around. So if you are not careful and don't restore the bowl into shape, it grows and you end up consuming more charcoal. The steel pot solves that. The other advantages of the steel pot is in the ease of cleaning and lack of vitrified clay/sand mixing up with the coals. At the end of my forging sessions, I shovel my hot charcoal into a cast iron pot with a lid that I leave outside the shop to cool (lack of oxygen and cold put it out and I can use it next time). This is quicker and easier with the steel pot, with its smooth sides. And I have no clinker mixed with the charcoal. Essentially, I used the JABOD to experiment with the size and proportions of my bowl, and used that as a pattern for by steel pot. Cheers, Arthur
  7. Made the adjustment to my fire pot, lowering the short sides by about 1". I kept the long sides higher, as this will help keep the charcoal contained. I tested it again and it's now at a good height, with the steel sitting right at the top of the fireball. Last step will be to weld a flange around the pot. This will make it easier to push back the hot coals into the pot.
  8. Full testing performed earlier today, and as I suspected the pot is a little too deep. I needed to either pile up more charcoal and pump more air than usual, or angle my steel down. This will be easy to fix, by simply shortening the side of the pot. I will be doing that tomorrow.
  9. Box bellows, about 2 cubic feet of air with every full single movement of the piston. The pipe is 1" diameter.
  10. Made a steel fire pot for my side blast charcoal forge. More detail in a seperate topic.
  11. After a year using a JABOD forge (using charcoal), I decided to solidify make a steel fire pot. I was tired of having to reform the sides because they'd crumble. So, inspired by the fire pot that Charles R. Stevens showed us in a different topic, I made my own. I work mostly on small items (hooks, leaves, etc.), so I wanted a shape that would conserve fuel as much as possible. This is why I added a slope on the wall opposite the tuyere. A slightly more complex shape but the bottom is only 2" by 3", while the top is 5" by 10". Total height is 6". First I made a cardboard mockup to be sure my plan worked: Everything looked good, so I proceeded with steel. I used pieces from a wood stove I took apart last year. The plates are 3/16" thick. Should be thick enough to last me a good while, considering that I spend less than 10 hours a week. Overall, it took me about 3 hours to cut the pieces, fit and weld them together. I immediately moved it into place in my existing forge. I only had time for a quick test burn. Worked well, although the sides are higher than what I was using by about an inch. It still took less charcoal to fill than the JABOD. Even better, it was much faster and easier to clean up. I should be able to do more complete testing tomorrow and deteemine whether I need to shorten it a bit. Once that is determined, I may add a rim to finish it. Cheers! Arthur
  12. Finished the two leaves I made on Monday, adding the hook end. With the longer stems I was able to add more curves.
  13. Indeed I do. No need for me to grow a third hand now. I could do that. Would be fun. But I wonder what kind of treatment should I put on my steel, or what kind of steel should I use, so that they would be food safe and not rust? Beeswax? Stainless steel?
  14. Lit up the forge for a little 2 hours tonight and practiced making leaves. Got to use my new spring fuller (about 4 messages back) and it works well. They are not fully finished, as the other end will be a hook. I just did a bit of filing to even out the shape and a light wire brushing by hand.
  15. Very nice Rojo Pedro! That horse looks happy. Me, I made a spring fuller this morning. The body is 1.5" by 3/16" mild steel and the jaws are pieces of a J-shaped rail anchor. I cut a slot in the mild to insert the jaws then mig-welded them in place. I don't see it coming apart any time soon.