WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith

Well, it that is going to be your forge's name, forge a check mark to be incorporated. It's a Forged Check. I make them at demonstrations and always get a good laugh. Wayne

I should have mentioned in my reply, I only use my pyrometer when I need to know more precise temps, welding and temp

Looks like it will work. One of the guys last week used one that looked like that on Forged In Fire. And since you are in Argentina you don't even have to worry about converting C to F. Wayne

Speaking of your "clean up service", a blacksmith that I know in North Georgia saw an old barn just full of old stuff and trash. Thinking that he might find something worth while in the barn he decided that he would offer $250.00 for the contents. He went up to the house and knocked. When the older lady came to the door he said,, "Mam, I'll clean out your barn for $250.00." She said, "Just a moment, young man, and I will get my check book." That story still gets told around blacksmith meetings. Wayne

Check out the Build a Gas Forge attachment on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. I believe that a round forge is much better than a square one. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

If what Glenn has stated does not adequately warn you read this article about a welder and break fluid. http://www.brewracingframes.com/safety-alert-brake-cleaner--phosgene-gas.html I have quoted this several times before on various forums but it bears repeating. Wayne

I just have angle iron for the lower portion to hold the bricks. Remember, heat rises. It also appears that there is space between the bracket and the tank allowing heat to conduct up between the forge and the bracket. You may be running to rich with to much dragon's breath. Wayne

You can get more gradual adjustments with a gate valve than with a ball valve. With a ball valve you have a 1/4 turn from full closed to full open. With a gate valve you probably have about 15 360 degree turns to go from full open to full closed. Wayne

I have a 155 Blu Max and would not be without it. I would jump on a 110 for $4.000.00. What dies and tooling come with it? Where are you located? Does it have the duel limit switches? If not and you are close enough you could probably take it to BigBlu in Morganton, NC to have that added at minimal cost. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

Like Scotty said, they make great bells. Cut one in two, flare the cut edge, insert the clapper through the hole for the valve. My wife hates it when I whistle to get her attention when she is in the barn or out in the pasture. Now she can get upset when I ring the bell. If I am out in the show she rings the "dinner bell". Wayne

Ausfire, I didn't know that you had Texas Longhorn steers down under.

Check out the Build a Gas Forge attachment for how I like to build a good, tuff, efficient, long lasting forge. You can use a Frosty T burner on it very well. Let me know how I can help you.. Wayne

That was Ed Caffery on KnifeDogs.com. I have seen no others make a similar comment. I don't suggest mixing different products and expect to get a good comparison. I have been using both Plistix and Metrikote for the past `10 years and have never gotten similar results to what Ed describes. I have also used ITC-100 and though I have not tried to do side by side comparisons I find that they al give similar results. Wayne

Why pay $75.00, or more when you can get Plistix for $15.00 a pint or Metrikote for $20.00 a pint? Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

I can't see where the handle is on either of the "face" vises.

I started with a 100# Peter Wright and spent most of my time chasing the anvil around the shop. Forging on the anvil would cause bounce back and walking. Of course, I could have bolted it to the floor and maybe stopped that. I also use the off side of the anvil often. With anything less than my 500# double horned anvil it moves when I strike from the side, even a 270# anvil. Yes Virginia, size does matter! Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

Thomas referred to the "cutting plate" I find the use of that area useful as a "step" between the face and the "cutting plate". This provides a 90 degree area for being able to forge into a corner and compress stock, such as welding cable. As to having a "solid" attachment I make all of my hardy tools with a stem slotted (forge 1" X 1/4" U shape) stem long enough to drive a wedge in. Now that is solid. Thomas commented about the "cutting table". I use that area for the step as in when welding cable, the cable can be driven back into the 90 degree corner to contain it on 2 sides and driven from the 3rd. I never use that area for a "cutting table". I use a Habberman style European anvil and the hardy hole is on the horn end and over the mass of the anvil. French anvils are also double horned and have the hardy hole at the rounded horn but even further back over the solid mass. The hardy hole comes out the side of the anvil. TFS (Texas Farrier's Supply) is a good example of where a farrier saw a market for a double horned anvil so tried to modify a London style anvil to a European anvil by just tapering the heel but leaving the hardy hole in the heel, the weakest area of the anvil, then, if that was not enough tapered the sides in, further reducing the mass and the strength of that area. There is normally a reason that the old time blacksmiths made their anvils the way they did. I have been using my anvil for about 15 years and see all of the advantages of it and can not figure anyway to improve it. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

You sure know how to get the guys drooling. Let us know how to contact the seller and it will be gone. My primary anvil is 500# and I am very happy with it but I would jump on that in a hart beat and drive to Michigan to pick it up and visit with friends along the way. Watch for me Jim Coke, Black Frog, Ron Bishop, Walt Badgero and others. Wayne

Alan, with the new pictures they wouldn't do very well as post hole diggers. Here in the US post hole diggers have about a 6" diameter bits and thin. I make fire place shovels from 1" square and have a shovel face about 6" wide, So I think maybe a little bit larger than 1" would make bits beefy enough to work well. I may try making some and let you all know. I would probably draw out the handles though normally they are wooden which tend to break after a while. Wayne

Alan, I'm late getting into this thread. The picture of you in front of the shop looks like you are holding a pair of post hole diggers. The ones that I can buy in the box stores seem to ware out to quickly. That pictures makes me think that I may have to forge a set from some 1.5" 440c that I have on hand. Of course, then I will have to get my son to use them. I'm just to old to be doing that any more. Wayne

Consider stock off the shelf brackets, then strip off the galvanized coating, if it is galvanized, then forge in the decorative elements. I make Ram's Horn hinges starting with a 6" strap hinge. Then split each leaf, draw it out and scroll appropriately. No one would recognize it as a strap hinge and you don't have to make and fit the knuckles. Let me know how I can help you again. Wayne

Check out the Build a Gas Forge attachment at the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com for instructions on how to build your own forge. It really is much simper than you might think. Let me know how I can help you Wayne

I lay a ruler along the side with the rule at the edge at the heel and over about 3/8" at the horn end and strike a line with a magic marker, on both sides, then grind a radius to the line. Both sides are the same so that near side and off side blows will have the same radius. That would probably take out that chip on the near side. If not maybe strike another line and radius to it. Be sure that both sides are the same. Wayne

Defcon, ,go to the Grinders page at xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx You can find recommendations there. Let me know if I can help

Your a blacksmith are you not? Make your tools, Seems like when I started blacksmithing 17 years ago every time I went out to the forge I had to make a tool. Today I started a new tool. It never stops and the ones you make will probably fit your anvil better and do a better job. Let me know how I can help you Wayne