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Found 21 results

  1. This is my gas forge. When i started sevenish years ago, this forum taught me anything i needed to know. Thanks a bunch everyone. I have now finished my newest forge. Hopefully it lasts. Roughly 1 1/2" thick cast with 1" wool wrap for added measure. Measures 10" wide on the floor by 8 " tall by 14" deep. I made the ribbon burner as many others have. With my 27 hole (i beleive) at 5/16", it has a 2" opening in which the air and fuel are stuffed. The gas orifice is 1/16". I have yet to fully bring it up to temp.
  2. Hi , let me start saying my english may not be good enough , so let me know if something is not clear . I been forging with my charcoal forge for half a year now , but wanted les time consuming , so i'm starting my first gas forge build. Resources are not really available in Argentina , so I been doing some research and trying to pull out some design that may work with what I have. First gas . Propane is too expensive here so , it has to be methane. People here use bottled methane for their gas forges , and works pretty well but a 10kg bottle is a bit out of my budget so i'm go
  3. Hey community, I often read in here that the size of the gas orfice should be 1 mm in diameter or even bigger in blown burners. Doesnt this contradicts with the whole "blown burners are more efficient" theme? Furthermore its often adviced to use larger gas orfices when experiencing burner problems like not getting up to temperature. I run my blown ribbon burner with a 0,6 mm mig tip on about 0,2 bar (propane) for general forging. I encountered backfire problems due to overheating of the burner block (hope to solve this soon and coat it with itc100 as adviced here) but besides t
  4. Hi Guys and Gals Now that most of the swelling has gone down and my cast is off I figured I would post a forge build that I did a couple months back. After trying to forge weld Damascus billets in a big ribbon burner forge I decided It would save me tons of money on propane if I built one that was 1/4 of its size. I wanted something kinda unique , something different than anything else i have seen so i started digging through all of my scrapyard junk putting random pieces of car parts together. I had a couple old party balloon helium tanks laying around that would be about
  5. Hey guys, I've finally built my new forge and had it drying for a couple weeks before I first tried it out and had it slowly coming up to temperature. But after 20 Minutes it still wasn't nearly hot enough and it didn't seem to go any higher maybe the forge is just too big for the burner? The burner is made from 1 1/2" pipes, gas nozzle is 1mm and the burner block has 23 eight millimeter holes. The Forge is insulated with 3 layers of koa wool and 20mm castable refractory. The blower has 600m3/h and is speed controlled, when I turn it a bit higher than on the picture it blows itsel
  6. Hello everyone! I just started building my first forced air ribbon burner forge that will be ran on residential natural gas. My question is what is the best way to set up the gas orifice? I've looked around on here for an answer but can't find it yet. I'm running 2" pipe so I know the orifice has to be 18" from the burner but would it be ok for the orifice to be 26 inches away and what is the minimum size for a gas supply line I can run? Thank you!
  7. Hi guys, I built myself a ribbon burner forge and although it ran quite well in the beginning, the burner was too big for my forge and ate through the propan bottles like crazy. To solve this problem, I started to close some holes of the burner, but it turned out that the burner stopped working properly. The flame ignites very late, almost on the ground of the forge and it seens that the airspeed is too high, but the blower is almost completely closed. I don't know what that the problem could be. Maybe the gas is not poperly mixed anymore due to low air speed in the pipe. I also realized
  8. Hi All, I'm very new here. I was searching for help with a ribbon burner problem and came across this forum. Signed up immediately! I have constructed a forced air ribbon burner from youtube info. Particular the series by SmithinStu. My problem is I cannot seem to get it to ignite. I am just testing it right now outside of a forge. I assume it is a mixture issue, but cannot figure it out. It is a MIG tip style gas outlet. I am using a shop vac for air right now, just to test. I was hoping to see that it worked before moving on to the forge build. I have tried reconfiguring the piping
  9. Currently working on my new ribbon burner forge build. I put an initial layer of around 1/2 of Kastolite 30 on top of my kawool, after I let it dry to gently rubbed off the crumbly sections to see what was solid. I chose to add another layer since it seemed thin on the forge floor. Should I add another layer on the roof? It seems solid currently, and there's just a few small patches I have to fill in. I've heard that I could potentially cause issues with having two layers of Kastolite? Thanks!
  10. So, just to bring a question to the beginning of a thread that I've had to dig deep into several threads to find any info on (and I'm still not satisfied I've gotten all the info I need for my build), let me ask a question or two. Which castable refractory would our senior members recommend for the ribbon burner, the forge body, and the forge floor, if one decides to cast it rather than brick or kiln shelf it. And why? If a particular brand is not recommended, what properties should one look for in the material one chooses for each of these components? The internet has such a confusing
  11. So many rigidizing is some strictly rigidized some help glue the ceramic blanket to the outside walls some reflect the heat back already have some plistex for a reflective thermal product because I’m too cheap for ITC but would rather rigidizevfirst and then apply a thermal reflective product as well as looking into some kind of sodium silicate for a way to glue the two -3 inches of ceramic blanket to the walls of them ribbon forge I’m about to be buildingOr should I just get some Mizzou cast a light and call it a day
  12. Almost finished with my first propane forge. The shell is 11 gauge sheet metal I bent around a 12” diameter pipe to form the vault on top. The bottom is flat. I bought a Pine Ridge LP 290 burner which is fed by a 2” black pipe. I thought about making my own ribbon burner but liked their burners and decided to put my time into other parts of the build. I used 3” of rigidized 8lb Durablanket on top and bottom because the burner protrudes 3” inside the shell. I only used 2” on the sides to maintain the inside width I wanted. I added a ½” Kastolite liner and a nitride bonded silicon carbide
  13. . Author's Note: This thread talks about activities and techniques that are DANGEROUS. You use this information at your own risk. I suggest you read the entire thread before embarking on the build. It should be noted that is not a project for a beginner. Look into brick pile forges and building venturi burners to get some experience before tackling something like this. In my previous thread "Ribbon Burner Build" I created a square ribbon burner and learned a lot of things about what makes these things work. One thing that I neglected to include in my calculations was Bernouli's Principle; w
  14. Hello, I've fairly new to the forum. Been reading... and reading... and reading... and, um, reading. Last fall I built a forced air forge running on propane and it's doing ok. However I'm wanting to upgrade (and also I just want to build another forge) and I'm looking into ribbon burners. I know there is a fair amount out there on them. I've read through "THE" instructions (Emmerling), as well as all the information I can find in these forums. I'm still in the early designing stages of this particular forge, but I still have some unanswered questions that are preventing me from dec
  15. I am putting my gas forge together and I only have ribbon burners. They are three connected together each being about 17 inches long. My forge is a 8x8x28 inch square tube that I plan to insulate with refractory cement and one inch of kaowool.how thick should my cement be and how should I arrange my ribbon burners to prevent melting and get maximum heat? I am fin with using less than three burners if I should.
  16. I am finally getting started on my new forge and wanted to share with you my progress on the burners. This forge will employ None Aspirated Ribbon Burner (NARB) burners, (2). I based the design on Frosty's burner but change the dimensions from the 2X2X7 to 4X4X2.5. I am using the same number of ports (17), but reduced the size from crayons (3/8") to 1/4" as I will use machine threaded bolts in place of the crayons.. Today I ran a test of the burner using a wood insert to take the place of refractory. It fired off nicely, sounds good, and the flame looks ok but I have not turned the MIG
  17. I tried to post this in thread, but keep getting forbidden. sigh. As an update on the blower issue, I have done some more research, talked with one of the engineers that I work with that has done air balancing on ovens, and have come up with some helpful information. I contacted Kayne and sons about the blowers they have, which by the way will do the job in SPADES. The one piece of nomenclature that seems out of place is the way these blowers are rated with regard to static pressure. Static pressure should be rated in inches of water column. So the rating of the blowers in ounces of static
  18. Can anyone recommend a cost effective blower that could be used with a ribbon burner? I know that most require 5 lbs. of static pressure. I also know that blowers are available from some of the blacksmith supply houses. But I would like to find a suitable alternative that didn't cost $140 per copy at the start. Like everyone I want to walk the line between spending what is necessary and not over spending. From my research, it seems I would be looking for a centrifugal blower, that has the necessary sp to run the ribbon burner. Can anyone make some recommendations on where they have source
  19. Hello all. As I find more of my forge time devoted to playing with Damascus and making billets, I’m not liking the fact that I’m heating up 1413 cubic inches of space for approx. 36 cubic inches of material. So I’ve decided I’ve got too much time on my hands and I need another project. I want to make a dedicated, small forge-welding forge. Here’re my options: 1.) Complete my original plan with my current forge (an 18″ length of 14″ diameter 1/4″ steel pipe with 2″ castable refractory for insulation and a 4″x10″ ribbon burner) and cast removable inserts out of Greencast to both shrink the
  20. Here's a new forge I'm currently building as a portable unit for doing demonstrations. I've still got some work to go. Ribbon burner is made from 3x3x3/16 tube and refractory, using crayons as part of the form. She's not quite getting up to the temperature I'd like and I think I might need to pick up a larger fan in order to get there.. looks to be hovering around 1900-2000F. I could also have a little debris in the plenum, because, like a dumb*ss, I didn't take the paper off the crayons like I normally do - you can see in one of the pictures that it's not burning quite right. Just lined with
  21. Just wanted to share a picture of my new gas forge I built for doing demonstrations at the Pennsylvania Renaissance Faire. I decided having a gasser and a coal forge side by side would allow me to do a few more complicated things, and have things ready to go ala-Julia Chid. We sell swords, knives and other impliments of destruction and people are always curious as to how they're made so I figured having pieces in various stages ready to be worked on might make my half hour shows flow a bit better. I do three of them a day. As for the forge it's essentially two inches of fiber wool, a layer of
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