Graham Gates(Ionic Muffin)

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About Graham Gates(Ionic Muffin)

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  • Location
    Kitsap County, WA

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  1. Few more questions. Bits Needed: 5/16" drill bit---not a problem I can get my hands on this 1/8" pipe tap---What is a pipe tap? Is it 1/8 npt 27 threads per inch? npt being the national pipe thread. #3 drill bit---.213 drill bit. ¼"x28 tap---seems self explanatory but just to be sure, thats 28 threads in 1 inch right? Thanks! Graham.
  2. I have access to a drill press and I believe the shop also has all the taps I will need. If not I will pick up the ones I need. I can pick up a floor flange and short pipe nipple.
  3. ok, I stopped by a Ferguson and this is what they gave me. Its a 1/4 x 1/8. I dont want to drill into a tee if its the wrong part, so I'll return it if its wrong. And thank you guys for helping me.
  4. With regards to the flare adapter you talk about in your instructions. Is this it? I guess I dont understand the terminology behind it:https://www.lowes.com/pd/BrassCraft-1-4-in-x-3-8-in-Compression-Compression-x-MIP-Adapter-Adapter-Fitting/50359448
  5. I get the feeling that you might be under and impression that I don't want to dish out the money to do it properly. I am more than willing to do that, I will look into the blacksmithing community out where I live. It looks like I need a new pipe and reducer. Do I need to replace the whole set of brass jet fittings?
  6. Any ideas where I can find it locally? I've been looking at ace and lowes, neither have the parts I need. Should I just go ahead and order them online?
  7. quick question. Why the 2x3/4 reducer? The burner in the Ron Reil style is 1 1/2x3/4. Just want to know what I should be picking up and why its important that I get that particular size.
  8. Thank you for the advice about how to find things cheaper. I will look for my local resources. I still have to find work, at the moment I am taking classes and have not yet landed a job.
  9. strangely enough I think I do understand why it isn't working, now that I have had a look at the burner design I had mimicked. I promise I wont run the burner until I have built a new one that operates properly and a regulator. From what I am gathering, it seems that the air isn't entering properly because I have the jet too far into the reducer bell. The reducer bell isn't large enough to let enough air in either, which makes the mix too rich in propane. This is why there are flames shooting out either side of the forge body, because there isn't enough air inside the forge, so when it meets the air outside the forge it has the oxygen to burn the propane. If I'm wrong about that then I will do more research so I understand how it works better. It will be a while before I can gather enough funds to pay for the new materials for the burner, but like I said, I wont run it until I have a new burner and regulator.
  10. alright, here is a bit more to work off of. Pictures of the burner and the tank its attached to, and videos of the flame both inside of the forge and outside. I blew into the air intake in the second video to show what I mean about the lack of air.DSCN0613.MOV DSCN0614.MOV
  11. Ok, so I made a burner a while ago and the forge body I made for it wouldnt heat up, so i figured i needed better insulation and maybe less room inside the forge. I recently finished the forge body. The issue seems to be more burner related, flames about 5 inches in length are coming out of the ends of the forge, when i blow into the back end of the burner the flames shorten and it sounds like there is more heat(hard to describe what I mean). I think the issue is a lack of air to the burner. With the amount of heat it is producing rebar only heats up to about bright orange color but will not get hotter. I have almost no experience with gas forges and their burners, so I guess I am trying to figure out what I should do to increase the heat.
  12. I am not sure what i should do to make myself a hardie hole for hardie tools. My anvil does not have a hardie hole since it is just a steel rod and the face is really too small to add a hole to it. I was thinking I could cut a hole into the wood stand and place some sheet steel over it so that it doesn't deform the wood. That's about the best I've come up with and getting a new anvil is not something I can do financially right now. I want to start making tools so that working the forge and making things becomes manageable. Here is a picture of the anvil and stand.
  13. I have to say, that is a beautiful axe. Further, if you don't have the tools to drift an eye or are not very experienced with forge welding or other advanced techniques then using a hammer seems even more ideal for learning how to make an axe.
  14. My friend from school, Phil, makes all sorts of things with his forge, but he recently added an instructional video on how to make a chopper knife. I was pretty impressed and it is similar to the first one he made, which split a 6" log 6' tall. Despite the knife bending, there was no damage to its shape. If you just want to see the knife in action you can go to this video at 16:05. Here is the 6th video of his 6 part series. The other videos of the series are all available on youtube and are connected to this video.
  15. I decided that shopvacs were burning up way too much of my coal and i needed a more viable option for a bellows. So I found a small coleman mattress inflator that I simply bypassed the circuitry for the original switch and added my own. I will post pictures of it running once I get a bag of charcoal. I have to use charcoal from now on because apperently the fumes from the coal traveled quickly into the house despite it not being all that close(50 ft). Either way I like this new bellows and it does the job and can still be used for mattress inflation despite the modification I made to it.