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Found 78 results

  1. Question on castable refractory

    Hello again, I've had some time to do research on different kinds of refractory material and I really like how the Kast-O-Lite 30Li sounds at first glance. I was wondering if I should coat the Kast-O-Lite in an IR refractory like ITC-100 (a little too pricey for me...) or Meeco's Red Devil 610 refractory cement (well with in my price range but unsure about efficacy). I have attached a ROUGH drawing of the front of the forge. Here is an overall idea of what I'm shooting for: Brushed stainless metal trash can for the shell (H=12" Dia=8") Hoping to do 2" of Kast-O-Lite to make a chamber of about 4" x 11" and have an exhaust port at the rear about 1.5" Hard fire brick as the floor (4.5"x9"x1ish") No refractory on these. Planning on having the burner pipe cast with the material then holding it in place with bolts. What say you fine folks? Any and all wisdom is greatly appreciated. I'm hoping to get this bad boy up to welding temps but we'll see. As always thanks for all the advice. Cheers! Big Jim (p.s. please excuse the horrible drawing in the image... I swear my 6 year old can draw better than me) Oh and I was also thinking of using the lid as a door to make the front opening smaller to retain more heat when I'm trying to weld. Kombae! Big Jim
  2. Insulation wool

    If the only store that sells insulating wool not have ceramic wool but they have fiberglass wool, would that be cool or would that be a terrible idea? Any alternatives. Also just for fun, any fun or cool/wacky forge ideas that works surprisingly.
  3. New Forge needs some help.

    I have been doing forge work for many years and have a great coal/charcoal forge. however due to time constraints I decided to branch out into gas forge work as the heat up and cool down times are drastically reduced. after getting the materials and working with a friend to build the forge I realize now that its going to need some modification to work as needed. To begin with this is a double burner forge utilizing a high pressure regulator with a 0-10PSI valve. the original design was to make this forge on a pivot so it can be turned upright to be used for the large crucibles I have to do scrap recovery and smelting. the overall interior is 19 inches deep X 9 inches wide. the dual burners have a top insertion and have several air inlet holes. so the first issue I ran into is that the forge was getting too much or too little air. the burnner uses a .35 mig tip after i got the air issue resolved I was able to get it fired up and looks to be working. only a bit more dragons breath then I would like. I realize I need an exhaust port. this was built so the bottom/back can be removed for long works so i can remove that however the full opening would allow too much of an exhaust. so I need some help to get a modification design for an exhaust port and to find out if the design should work with a basic air inlet i have or if i need to look at a forced air inlet.
  4. Hi everyone. I recently bought a devils forge single burner forge for some of my smaller projects. I've tested it from less than 0.1Mpa to 0.8 Mpa. The issue is the forge doesn't get hot enough. Or if it does it's a huge fireball coming from the forge. Also, I keep reading about some kind of coating I need to put on the wool? Any info on that would be appreciated!
  5. Getting a Gas Forge

    So I have been using a hand crank coal forge for some time now and have been getting tired of starting and maintaining the fire. I've been looking into buying a gas forge and have looked at Majestic Forge and Diamondback forges. After reading some threads in here I decided magestic was poorly made and couldn't weld easily. I looked at Chile ones too but that is out of my budget. I want to know if any of you have had problems with a diamondback Forge (I want the 2 burner blacksmith model). Or if you think it would be worth my time and money to just make one and buy the burners then any advice on insulation would be great. Also, I want a forge that can do some good welding. I want to try some Damascus in a few months.
  6. Mini gas forge

    So I am building 2 forges, one from an old wok that burns wood, and one from a large pizzeria sized pineapple chunk can and I'm wondering if anyone knows of a place in the St. Catharines ON area to procure some kaowool on the cheap, or alternately is willing to sell some on the cheap. All advice is appreciated! Also, what is the best way to seal the kaowool?
  7. First Gas Forge Design

    Hi! I'm a reenactor who has decided to build their first forge. I've done a bit of work on coal but for working at home I decided that gas would be the much easier choice. I read the thread on Forge 101 and it warned about not starting too big but now I'm worried as to what you guys consider "too big". The size of what I've drawn up (diagram below) is based on the size of the things I need to be producing for reenactment (mostly larger axe heads) but please let me know if you think I've been too ambitious. The burner I'm planning to use is the 1" gameco bkit3 burner. All sides of the steel box in the diagram will be lined with 2 inches of kaowool and one inch of refactory cement. And it will stand on a base of the same. This gives an internal size of 10" x 10" x 5". If anyone can see any problems with this I'd love to hear them and I will adapt the design accordingly because I want to get this right. Many thanks Ruby
  8. Hi, my name is Jim. I am 37, a father of a two & three year old. I am a carpenter by day & well a busy father after. As my life is chaotic and I'm always busy either with work or taking care of others I needed some serious me time! So the adventure began, first it was straight razors but that just wasn't enough for me. I buy, sell & restore them. I got involved with the forums but I don't feel as if I actually fit there. I have nothing bad to say it's just you can't fit a square peg in a round hole. Now after taking a serious interest in blacksmithing & after long careful consideration I started buying tools. As I stated in a father and everyone knows that means "on a budget" so I bought a used 70# anvil without a makers mark, the only mark it has is on the left foot a 7 stamped in there. I paid just over a $1 per pound. I'd like to I.D. It but I have so many more important questions, like #1 being I have bought a forge to save time and hey the price seemed right ($130.00) it came with a 1" Rex burner and the forge inside diameter is six inches round by twelve long, made with refractory cement and by eye I'd say near 1/4 inch plate steel. So from what a have read it seems the burner is more than sufficient for the space. My question is do you think this will work out well and most importantly how do I tune the burner? I have played around with different air/fuel ratios and I just can't seem to get a " jet like" blue flame. In fact all I'm getting is a weak flame or I get what appears to be an invisible yet loud flame? I can't help but wonder if I should have went with coal?? Anyway I am going to end it here as I have so many questions I don't want to over load one post. Any help getting this burner flowing right and opinions on my setup even constructive criticism is welcome. I just want to learn & learn the right way. Sorry that I'm all over the place but I wanted to introduce myself and get my first questions out. Thanks, Jim.
  9. Hey All! So still learning lots everyday about Smithing. I have been learning on a Coal forge and have one all set to go into a building once it is built when the ground hardens here in Oregon! But in the mean time I have a Forgemaster Blacksmith model... ya I caved and just bought one instead of building one though i may still build one down the road... I wanted to get to where I could practice things at home that I am learning at the shop (40miles away) hence the gasser as i can open up the garage door while its raining out side and bang away...... My problem is with the bottle regulator running at 12 pounds and the needle valve set to highest setting... I left a pieace of 1/4 inch in the forge for 10-15 minutes and it only got to bright yellow.... what the heck??!!! My mentor is a coal only guy and has never really used them in the means I am trying to... if any of you can kick me in the right direction i would appreciate it! Pete
  10. Glass blowing

    Recently I stumbled upon a youtube channel with loads of amazing glass blowing videos and I've probably spent a few hours glued to my screen drooling over the videos, so I of course started thinking about doing this myself, has anyone used a propane forge with Frosty's T burners for glass blowing? are there any reasons why that wouldn't work?, my biggest concern is it might be too hot
  11. Forge build

    Hi guys, I'm looking to start my own blacksmith shop, I already have my anvil, now I only need a forge... I want to build a forced air gas forge, I have access to an entire steel workshop, so building it is not the problem. I need the math for a 4 burner forge with a burner configuration of "01010100010"(0= an open space,1 = blower) I like this configuratuon cause then I can have very high temp on a small spot or just regular high temp throughout... 1: will this configuration work in the way I think it will ? 2: how do I make the blowers? (I can make everything on a lathe and milling machine if nessecary) 3: what should the "math" be for the forge? 4: what will the gas consumption be per blower, per hour? 5: what can I use as refractory material, where can I accuire it ? 6: how do I assemble the whole mish-mash of parts !? Thanks for reading, I appreciate any help you can offer.
  12. My NARB Is Underway

    I am finally getting started on my new forge and wanted to share with you my progress on the burners. This forge will employ None Aspirated Ribbon Burner (NARB) burners, (2). I based the design on Frosty's burner but change the dimensions from the 2X2X7 to 4X4X2.5. I am using the same number of ports (17), but reduced the size from crayons (3/8") to 1/4" as I will use machine threaded bolts in place of the crayons.. Today I ran a test of the burner using a wood insert to take the place of refractory. It fired off nicely, sounds good, and the flame looks ok but I have not turned the MIG tip in the burner yet, I will do that once it is installed into a forge. I ran the pressure from 3lb to 6lb, the flame did not vary, after about 45 seconds I shut it down. The pipe casing you see in the pictures is not the forge body as I do not have the little part yet. Tomorrow I will do a test of the burner refractory with a couple of my machine bolts installed. One with release agent, one without. If anyone has comments or concerns I would like to hear them.
  13. Making a gas forge- A few Questions

    I am making a gas forge. I am using a water heater tank. The dimensions (outer) of the tank are 24 inches long by 20 in diameter. I have enough cerachem to line it to a three inch thickness. I am going to make a forced air ribbon burner for it. I am going to build the blower so that it will provide a static pressure of at least 25 inH20. That should be plenty from the stoichiometric calcs. I have a refractory coating to coat the cerachem and a couple of firebricks (good to 3000 F) for the deck. My main question at this point is what do I need to do to install the cerachem? Will it stay in place once I coat it with the refractory and then coat it with ITC100?
  14. Natural gas forge

    I built a torch who works with natural gas and propane. Modernization is quick, simply to change nozzles. To take full advantage of "The Monster Torch" I designed and built a new furnace. This is a video of the work of the burner with propane. Here are the pictures you can see the steps of build and the principle of operation of the furnace. Mix of natural gas and atmospheric hot air accelerates to speed of burning using the compressed hot air. The first test run with natural gas. The furnace is almost cold, work with a minimum power of. After 40 minutes I put in forge the crucible and melted brass. Melted in a few minutes. The furnace is working on half power. In the movie can hear as roar of the torch with propane. Working with natural gas is quiet.
  15. Hello, new to this forum and thought I would throw a curve ball. I am starting to piece together a respectable metal working tool collection and I am missing a forge. I don't have the scratch to throw down for a new/used forge. I have a bad ford transmission that I plan on gutting and was wondering if it could be used as the hull of a forge. I was thinking about casing the inside with a fire-brick mortar. That's really as far as I've thought this through. Anybody tried this, heard of trying this or has some constructive criticism to throw at me would be greatly appreciated.
  16. New gas forge build (pic heavy)

    Well I had everything set up to build this forge and then got side tracked with a forge off of e-bay that was only a few miles away, it ended up blowing out, Link below. and I decided that I would finish the project I had started and one day possibly salvage the other one to have a monster forge!! But for now this little guy is all I really need. So sit back and enjoy some pictures and I'll take you through what I have done so far. Please feel free to offer guidance as this is the first forge I have built. I've just been going off of this page and learning as I go! Step 1, get a shell, I scored this old air tank at St. Vincent for $3 its the same size as a 5 gal propane tank but it had an extra valve and no fear of blowing up from a spark when I cut into it. WIN WIN! I took some 1" square tube and welded it on as feet so Harrison Forge could stand on his own, these will be visible when we move down and he gets flipped over. For my first layer of insulation I used 8# 1" thick 2700 degree Inswool HTZ from HighTempTools. It's doubled up in this photo. I used a K28 kiln brick for a floor. Side note. I layed down a layer of kast-o-lite under the brick to give it a flat surface under it, you can kind of see it on the left side of the brick here. And a packed in a bunch more Inswool, I used 2x 1" pieces, and packed the scraps in around the front and back of the brick.The back side, which I think will become the front because I like the big open hole... Giggity. I had some K24 kiln bricks that I was just going to stack as the doors but then decided to take a little extra time and weld up some brackets to hold them while I had everything out and was in fab-mode. Door's being measured out. I wanted them to stay on the bracket when full open. A top bracket will be added for extra stability later. Now to get my supports measured with my super high tech method of "Calibrated Eye" and prep them for welding on the belt grinder. Now it's time to set them up and weld them in place on the forge. Weld area preped! I measured where the brick would be centered for the door then using a level and soap stone etched a line to guide my holder placement. I did the same on the other side, in the effort to save picture over load it is not shown, but looks remarkably similar. Getting everything lined up. Once in place a quick tack weld to hold it until the other side can also be put in place. With one side tack welded, I moved on to the other and made sure it was all squared away using the first one as a reference point. Now with both support arms in place I can measure exactly where I want my brick holder to be. It's hard to tell in this pic but there is about 1/8" gap between the brick and the front of the forge. I wanted a good enough cap so that when I added the kast-o-lite the brick would still be able to move freely. With the door all tack welded and everything still square I finished up the welds on all fronts. Now time for some Kast-o-lite!! I didn't get any pictures of the mixing with this becuase it ended up being a lot faster than I thought it would. I don't remember if I read it here or saw it on youtube but it stuck with me that someone said you only have 15 minutes once you mix it to get it how you want it before you're times up. They weren't kidding, I'd say 10 is probably closer to it. But it was super easy just mix with water and it feels like that stuff from Nickelodeon Kids, Squand maybe? Anyways I only had a 5# bag from HighTempTools and it ended up being plenty for this little guy. And I have some left over that will probably go to patching up my farriers forge. All in all it's about 1/2"-3/4" thick, I went back and stuffed it around where the bunner lets in just to make sure there was NO unprotected Inswool. I started building this forge because my antique NC tool Farrier forge wasn't able to get up to welding temp and I wanted something with just a little bit more room for stock. But I have read on here many times about how hard flux is on your floor and I knew I wanted a floor I could take out and throw away when it got to laden with flux and such. So I took a K28 Kiln brick and cut it into 3rds (Using the calibrated eye again!) One of those I then cut in half to make up for the total length of my floor. I like this as 1 brick yields 2 full forge floors. And for about $5 a brick is only $2.50 for a new floor. Small price to pay for the sweet satisfaction of a weld well done! With these I can just set them in the forge and when they get ruined swap them out, very quick and easy. Right now my Kast-o-lite is setting up, and I am waiting until tomorrow to do my burn in to let it have a full 24 hour cure time. I know Frosty The Lucky talked about replacements for ITC-100 that were a little more affordable, so I am still looking into what I will coat the inside of the kast-o-lite in. As far as burner I cheated ad also got one from a blacksmith school in seattle. I originally planed on making my own but by the tie I got everything to build it i was around $30 plus time and effort. And a ready to go 150K BTU burner was only $50 so I said "To the Birds!" and just bought one. Big thanks to everyone who contributes on this group, I love learning form everyone here. -Coyote
  17. Sorry if this is already posted somewhere. I've searched and can't seem to find what I'm lookin for... Question/situation is that I live close to a ceramics/pottery supply place which carries all different raw materials i.e. Alumina Hydrate, Kaolin, kiln wash, zircopax, sodium silicate, fire clay etc. literally 75-100 different raw materials. Building another forge and instead of paying small fortune shipping a bag of refractory (ideally castable) or buying ITC 100, is there a way to make a homemade batch of this stuff? I understand ITC 100 is gonna be tough to beat but even if I could make something that would be half as good that would offset the price to buy and ship online. Forge I'm building is just a small portable propane forge, lined with 2" of Kaowool. Also , talked to someone at this pottery place few times and they didn't even know what ITC 100 was ... Haha Thanks!
  18. builing my first gas forge

    Hello to everyone and thank you in advance, my name is seth and I'm in the Denver co. Area, I'm building a gas forge out of an old propane tank. I have my refractory and my ceramic blankets are in the mail. My questions lie in how to build my burner ( I really have no base knowledge to go off of so I need to do more reading for shure) and if I plan on lining the ceramic blankets with the refractory cement do I really need to use a rigidiser on the blankets before I coat them with the refractory? I still need to build my table to put everything safely on and make a hole for my burner I was thinking at about 10 o'clock position on the tank so I can at least attempt to spiral the heat aroud my forge if I can get the burner pitched correctly.
  19. Newbie forge build

    Hey all, Ive been lurking for a while reading up and looking around. I'm new to blacksmithing and I am just about to start gathering materials for a gas forge build. I've taken a couple classes here and there to see if I could get a feel for it and things have been coming pretty naturally so I figured it's time to get my hands dirty. I just had a couple questions about a design I've been mulling over, loosely based on a forge I used in a class. dementions are 10"x10"x10" angle iron and sheet metal box open on opposite ends with 2" ceramic fiber board on the inside on four sides and a kiln shelf on the floor on top of the fiber board. If all that makes sense then I'd have a 6"x6"x10" chamber with a door on one end and a volume of 360 cubic inches. My questions are: Does this design sound like a good setup? Assuming the design is good should I consider adding refractory cement, or should it be fine without it as long as the sides don't get wear? assuming this design would a single high quality burner be sufficient? And finally would a nut and bolt construction on the frame cause any concern since I'm not really set up for welding yet? Thanks in advance, and I'm located in Raleigh, NC in case anyone is close
  20. HI all. I got given a LPG (propane) forge and have used it for about 3 years on and off and never had any issues. Now I'm getting sore thorats, headaches and a bit of nausea after I use it for a prolonged time (full day, multiple days in a row), issues I never had before, same forge and same space. Two things have changed - i relined it and increased the insulation - it initially only had ceramic fibre board insulation. I replaced the ceramic fibre board also used some ITC products to seal thefibre board, boost reflectivity etc.. The other thing I did was I removed the back forge wall with the intention of putting in a door for longer pieces. I got busy and haven't got round to it so the back is open. With the increased insulation, the heat is greater in the forge, and the flame also seems more intense, stronger, and has a greater blast coming out the front. As far as I'm concerned the flame is a good level of blue, though I'm no expert. I'm wondering if the flame is perhaps running too rich and not burning off all the LPG/Propane? Would having the back open effect things at all? My prime concern is that I'm creating more CO now then I was before I relined the forge. There is an air adjustment which I've never messed with because I never had any issues previously, perhaps this needs adjusting?. I have a lot of ventilation via a large barn style sliding door, and air vents which run down one side of the space, which previously seemed adequate I'm after thoughts, advice on how I might go about dealing with this, as I don't really have a lot of experience with gas. I'd like to get back to how it was before honestly, I had less heat but I also felt better! Advice gratefully accepted! Nate
  21. Gas forge design

    after recently been laid off at the machine shop by work that I've decided to take up an interest that's fascinating me since I was a child. Below I have 3-D renderings of the forge I designed this is based after the forge that my great uncle used. It's going to be made from a steel cyclinder that is 21" long, a 1/4" thick, and has a 10" diameter. It has an end that is blocked off with a rectangular hole of an undetermined size that will be able to be covered by a hinged door. The main reason I added this feature is so there isn't a jet of fire being blown out of the open end of the forge. I also equipped the forge with slots that I can put in refractive sheet bricks to be able to close the forge til it comes to working temperatures. I'll be lining it with 2" KAO wool using ITC-100 to make it a more efficient forge. It's going to be a dual burning forge with a valve that can limit it to a single if desired.On the bottom I'm going to make a flat surface using a refractive "clay" so the work piece isn't resting on the wool. I would like to hear your thoughts, opinions, things you would change, and things that you would do to make it better. If you like the design feel free to use the renderings I've attached to make your own. -Jason
  22. Trouble Tuning My Burner

    I have built a number of Zoeller Type side arm burners. They have all worked well. However, I am having trouble setting up my newest forge. I have run these burners through soft brick and flared the inside of the bricks to create a flame holder. I have also made kaowool forge tops and just cut a hole for the burners and have worked well without any flaring. My newest forge has two burners and the top is 12" x 17" set on top of a rectangle of soft brick. One of the burners works great, the other sputters and will not form a typical flame. I removed it and added a stainless flare. It works great on the bench but continues to sputter inside the forge. I have changed the burner depth and changed the placement of the flare. I am stumped, any suggestions?
  23. Gas forge exhaust opening

    So, I modified my current forge by moving the burner from the back to the front, I also placed it at a tangent across the arched ceiling and slightly toward the back. You can see it running in the picture below. I got a nice even heat. I ran it with the original burner port open which seemed to 'pull' the flame to the back (the back is closed). Plugging the burner port in the back also works but the cool spot will be larger. I have to run it a bit longer to be sure what the difference is. I guess I am just wondering about the advantages/disadvantages of having a small exhaust in a long narrow forge like mine. (chamber is 12 cm wide 6 cm high about 25 deep). I imagine there will be a marginal heat loss.
  24. Alright I'm new to the world of blacksmithing and I actually have quite a few things right now that have gotten me along but I want to go bigger... I have a 1x30 grinder and I want to buy a 2x72 KMG it runs at about $2500... That will be most of my paycheck from this summer... I also want to buy a gas forge the one I would buy is on eBay for $650 it's a 5 burner sword forge so I could use it for anything really... Last I want to build a power hammer but i don't know what to get first or if I should get any of these yet I have a coal forge and I have hammers I just want to go bigger please give advice!
  25. Forge build

    Hi guys, I'm looking to start my own blacksmith shop, I already have my anvil, now I only need a forge... I want to build a forced air gas forge, I have access to an entire steel workshop, so building it is not the problem. I need the math for a 4 burner forge with a burner configuration of "01010100010"(0= an open space,1 = blower) I like this configuratuon cause then I can have very high temp on a small spot or just regular high temp throughout... 1: will this configuration work in the way I think it will ? 2: how do I make the blowers? (I can make everything on a lathe and milling machine if nessecary) 3: what should the "math" be for the forge? 4: what will the gas consumption be per blower, per hour? 5: what can I use as refractory material, where can I accuire it ? 6: how do I assemble the whole mish-mash of parts !? Thanks for reading, I appreciate any help you can offer.