Frozenforge

The rigidizer will soak in then set up so it is usually done in 1 application. You will neet to wait a day or so for it to dry then you can cure it by starting the forge up for a few minutes, let it cool down, repeat a couple times, to make sure its cured I put the ITC-100 on the whole interior of the forge. Keep it well mixed while applying the same drying procedure.

Assume could be Kaboom!

With that logo layout it should be late 1800s to early 1900s

It says manufacturing and if that is the only numbers on the base below the horn it would date it 1893.

What time does the meeting start?

That anvil has seen ALOT of horseshoes!

I have not operated a blown style burner myself but it seems they can run in a forge with smaller exhaust openings, I would imagine that would reduce the heat loss a little.

If that is a 3/4" burner you should have no problem using it the way it is in that size forge. The venturi burner will be more sensitive to forge design and propane pressure settings. The forced air will need a way to regulate the air supply and propane pressure. Do a little research and you will figure it all out!

That looks like a heavy layer of paint so it might affect getting a good feel for how much rebound it has. You may not be able to see the weight markings so bring a bathroom scale. People almost always overestimate the weight.

If you wanted to hide the weld on the block just drill/punch a hole in the plate and rosette weld the block from the back.

Wilkinsons have the weight on the opposite side from the logo so I think its a Wilky

Unfortunately it sounds like it is cast iron. Many of the cast iron ones had the appearance of a faceplate built into the mold. Because of its size you could probably do some light work with it.

You have the upper half of a Trenton that I would guess started out as about 150lb. The original factory weld between the top and bottom failed at some point fairly early in its life and it was then attached to the plate. Nothing wrong with it the way it is so make a stand for it and put it to use!

Being old enough to be pre internet I would say for its ability to help research and gain information easily from your home, you just have filter out the misinformation!

Glenn might have a distant relative by the name Rube Goldberg!

Just get a piece of string and lay the shape out and measure the string. The actual math to calculate the exact circumference of an ellipse is fairly complicated, there are simpler equation that will be within 5%. Just do a google search for the formulas if you need it that precise. It works out to be 37.24 using the simpler equation.

Thats a beauty, I dont think I have ever seen a Soderfors saw makers anvil. Frosty will have Anvil Envy over that one!

Nice one, great example of the "TREXTON" logo and the factory arc weld between the base and top. Is that the stand for it or a big saw makers anvil? Use it well and forge on!

Here in Alaska what appears to be NOS (new old stock) 250 lb Fisher would be gone very quickly at $4 to $5 /lb. Very dependent upon location but in that condition I think 3 to 4 $/lb would be unreasonable, not too much a buyer could complain about in regards to condition. I would suspect NJAnvilman would be interested in this if you are in the N.E. Part of the country. Please tell me you live in Alaska, fingers crossed!!! Nice Anvil pictures are so distracting that I didn't even notice you said you were in northern MO. SIGH I guess its a good thing I live up here otherwise I would have an anvil addiction problem.

The BBQ system cannot deliver enough BTU for forging, the regulator is fixed and is not setup to deliver enough fuel. Research Frostys T burner and Ron Reils website for building an inexpensive burner. In a pinch you can use a needle valve to TEMPORARILY control the propane until you can get a propane regulator. The BBQ parts would be good to make a preheating oven or a fire pit!

That sheep has already been sheared! Seeing as it was a new born probably the finest 000 wool around!!

An impact wrench, either pneumatic or electric will break the nut loose easily. You can usually just hold on to the fan hub with a gloved hand. The fan hub is threaded as well and make sure the set screw is removed and a some penetrating oil helps. After you get everything off a thread file is easier and cheaper to find and use than trying to locate a die for the unusual thread.

Search under refactory supplies, Im sure there are a few listings in Knoxville. Keep hammering. You will learn more with each session and gain an appreciation for how things were made in the past! Look up pictures of simple brick forges, they are simple yet versatile.

Were you just flattening it out flat down to 1/4" or drawing it out, keeping it round, down to 1/4"? Drawing it out would take longer than just flattening. Sounds like you need to get the metal hotter, try yellow heat.

I can see remnants of QUEEN DUDLEY which would make it a wilkinson. You can see a little of the crossed ovals. The 2 holes were probably an attempt to reattach the heel. Probably from the first half of the 1800s. Looks in pretty good shape, maybe it broke early and didnt see heavy use. The stone weight markings are on the other side.