dps9999

ok thanks guys yeh everything i have including the cocobolo is stabilized

Ok thanks guys yeh usually i keep things seperate as much as possible and i dont know why i did that....well yes i do lets say it was a day of lots of stupid little mistakes that i usually dont do it cost time effort and some of my sanity by the time i got to the buffing stage i just wasnt in the right mind i usually wipe the handle down with acetone but i just wasnt thinking and its not cross contamination of compound it was deffinitly the g10 dust it was a brand new wheel i only used it 2 times with the white diamond stuff so the wheel hadnt turned black yet but as soon as that dust filled handle hit the wheel it went black quick....that was the last of the stupid mistakes that day just one of those days i am usually good with the buffs i have never made a mistake like that before thats why i asked oh well ill have to order a couple new ones hey its a excuse for me to get some more handle material and belts thanks tho guys i appreciate it! oh one other question a lil off topic but i have never used wood (well once way back when i first started) i have always like the options between g10 micarta carbon fiber all that stuff but now that i am starting to sell some of my blades i have to make them appeal to others so i am working on one that will have cocobolo handles so in some reading and vids i have seen people oil the wood handle is that something that is done ontop of buffing or in place of it?

Hey guys....so i got some white diamond compound for use on handles...so i used it once or twice on a buffing wheel. hadnt been used enough where it was loaded and starting to cake on the wheel yet. so i was using black g10 handle material and did the shaping on the grinder then when i went to move to the buffing wheel i was stupid usually i clean it off before i buff this time i didnt i wiped the handle (with my shirt) and took it right to the buffer the wheel instantly turned black (it did buff the handle fine) i guess all the exxecess residue on the black g10 transfered to the wheel. so now my question is is that wheel contaminated should i only use that buff on handles or do you guys think it will be alright to use on polishing a blade i have one blade that i am about to bring to a mirror finish and this knife i sware is jinxed i made sooooo many stupid little mistakes on this one i dont want to have to back step because it got all scratched up on the wheel. has any one done this before??? if i had more wheels i would just use a new one but i dont and dont want to order just a wheel if i dont have to. i am kinda torn on this one on one hand yeh its deffinitly contaminated but on the other that g10 dust is so fine and should be softer than metal so maybe it wont. either way just wondering if anyone has contaminated a wheel with handle matterial before this bad

i have been working mostly with stainless lately all of that stuff only works on carbon steel right?

Hey guys so i had some one ask me about if i could coat a knife black at the time flat out no.....but got me thinking i like that look myself on certain knives even grey or tan SOMETIMES. so i did some research i heard about moly coat but the 2 that keep poping up are dura coat and cera coat.......has any one ever done this any ideas on what companys are better or worse or even colors that came out good i would appreciate any info i deffinitly want to try it but its not cheap so i dont want to waste too much money experimenting if some one can help wit that THANKs guys

hey guys sorry i have no pic my sister still has the camera...i tried using a phone camera but as i said as i went up in grits it got harder and harder to see and now that i have buffed and got it all nice and shiny it is really hard to see so thats a good thing...you gota look for it and catch it right at the right angle and light to see it and i couldnt catch it with the phone camera....i will just have to deal with it...but even tho its still there if ya look hard its 100% better than it was at start....thanks for all the help i am finally going to go buy my own camera when i get paid next week so if something like this comes up again i can get a photo up right away

no mix oil is parks 50....i am going to try to get a pic up later when i get the camera back

hey guys sorry about the pics....my camera is in my sisters car and she hasnt been here ill try and get something up as soon as i can.....its not from tongs i HTed it in a even heat oven and used long pliers to grab th back edge of the handle dip it in the oil and as soon as it gets in the oil i put a hook through a hole in the tang...i did keep grinding this since its suposed to be polished and it did seem to go away a little the higher up in grits i went its still there but like a holagram you can only see it in the right light

i cant get a pic up until tomorow (dont have the camera right now) its stock removal and new matterial 1084 steel from nj steel barron .....heat treated in a even heat oven and quenched in oil....

hey guys so today i was working on a blade and these weird circle like things show up on the blade....at first i thought it was a finger print or ya know how while grinding you dip the blade in water to cool and the water dries and leaves a spot that is exactly what this looks like but this wont wipe off or even grind off! i started to notice it about 220 grit and 400 and 600 (thats where i stoped for the day since i was getting fustrated) but these marks are still there in the exact same place (so i know its the same mark not a series of them) i have NEVER seen something like this and its not to distinct like i said looks like a fingerprint and you gota catch it at the right angle ...does any one have any idea...the only thing i can think of is some kinda defect in the steel or maybe i did something in the heat treat?? i am clueless on this one

thanks guys! The gun black may be a idea, i have gun blue and i have used that before and tried to get a black color with it and couldnt ill have to try the black stuff......the cerakote is also a good idea ill have to see if there is anyone local that does it....the aluminum is something i have on had i have big enough bars to form bolsters i have never done bolsters with out polishing them all the way up how would you get the brushed look just stop half way up the grits? or is there another technique?.....Ok copper is something i didnt even think of at all the only copper i have tho is pins and bolts but it may be a nice accent ill have to see how it looks togather...thanks again guys

Hey guys this may seem like a strange question but anyway i am in the middle of creating a couple '"prototype" blades for testing and if things go well i am going to make a couple of each design to sell (i have a few people waiting for me to sell some) but i am also making a knife for a friend and she wants pink handles...ok no problem there but i dont want a plain knife with just pink handles it needs to have something else to the design first i thought bolsters but brass and pink would look horible so SS and pink might look ok but i am NOT polishing this blade since she will be using it for light stuff and when you polish that kinda knife it scratches bad and i dont thing shiny SS bolsters would look good on a non polished knife with pink handles. black might look good with pink at first i thought maybe making a bolster out of black paper micarta but the pink scales are g10 wich doesnt have tha wavy pattern when you grind it and the black micarta would so i dont know how that would look. i may be just overthinking it but i cant come up with a good idea for this one and i want it to be good she is deffinitly a important person and it will be the first knife i am giving to some one besides close fammily (mother, father) ANY ideas guys would really be appreciated!

I know posting this i am going to get all sorts of resposes like "do it freehand jigs are garbage" that kinda thing....that being said i am just curious if any one uses one of those hollow grinding fixtures (like the one jantz has) if so do you like it, what can and cant be done with it ect...

THANKS GUYS!....i had to take a trip and wasnt around a computer for a few days. I had alot of reading when i came back but i just finished and you all have good ideas and i thank you for that. i had just finished putting a couple of blades through destructive testing, i had done this many times before but new oven and steel figured i should do it again and actually they all met my requirements and most of the testing exceeded them. so now i have come up with a couple prototypes i am in the process of finishing up so maybe ill post some pics once they are done and see what everyone thinks and see if my price ranges on them are too high too low or spot on. after making these prototypes and writing down everything from how long they took to cost of materials i may make a couple more of the same designs maybe change the grind on one or handle material on another and sell them. i have had many friends familly and their friends ask to buy some even when my mother posted some pics on her facebook alot of people asked her "will he make me one" so i plan on selling the ones i make but also at the same time tell people if you dont like that and you have a idea for another lets talk and see what we can come up with. This is all how i see it in my head i am sure it wont go exactly as planed but hey at least i have a plan right? ill throw up another thread when i get these prototypes finished thanks again guys

Hey guys so its time to order more steel...i have been using 440c since i got the oven so i am going to get more of that but they also have over stock items where you can just buy a small piece usually a foot. so i want to get something to try so i was thinking of trying out cpm s30v or cpm s35vn.....do any of you guys have any opinions of wich one to try first (and why) thanks guys....oh and i do have a even heat oven and access to liquid nitrogen for the heat treat so i think i am good there with either one