jeremy k

I got a little time to see how the portable bandsaw blades performed in a billet. I just used some 3/16" x 1" mild steel with the blade stock. Starting billet size vs. Forge welded as a test. Well, it appears that it "is" a High Carbon steel, as it turned black, mild steel is the gray. Looks like I scored good stuff on theses 31 bandsaw blades!!! Each blade is just over 12ft long = lots of 6" pieces to use.

I called Wood-Mizer. They said the bandsaw blade info is proprietary, but also said they would make good knives.

I ran into a guy that was relocating his sawmill, and scored 31 blades. After talking to him later, I found out they are the Silver tipped "Woodmizer" blades. Has anyone pattern welded with these? Figured I'd check before I forge weld some samples to find out if they are worth the time and effort. Jeremy

One thing people have to remember, not everyone has the ability to have their phone or computer glued to their fingers to respond as every question is posted. People have lives besides the Internet. Your post is not even 24 hours old, some people check sites daily,weekly or even as long as monthly, so be patient - after all your asking for free advice, don't expect everyone to drop everything to respond minutes after your posts. Whether hobby or professional, sometimes responses take a bit. For instance it's a national holiday here....deer hunting, most are out hunting and enjoying electronicless peacefulness.

Been working on a new forging press.

David R - Where did you get the leather to replace the old? And what thickness did you use? I have a large bellows the same size where the wood is in perfect shape but mice have attack the leather badly. I would like to rebuild mine for a 10ft x 10ft shop (ceiling mounted near the portable forge inside). -Jeremy

Practice is the only way. The first picture you posted, the first think I noticed was the fractures at the point of where you started the transition of square to round - definitely a break point if used. Sharp corners on and anvil or anvil shaped object will/or can cause this - this is why a radiused corner is preferred on an edge of the anvil, or one can use the horn with a rounding hammer to create the same smooth transition. Keep at it and show your results. :-)

Those are wall hangers to remind you where you were when you first started them, now make many more and you'll get better, then you can compare them and see your progress. Keep it up - it'll you'll get there.

Forget the prichel hole, punch from one side 3/4's the way thu, then on the other side in the same heat, - take your time a bit - cool your punch in the slack tub - even let a few drops of water hit the sweet spot your punching, locate your sweet spot, then with one quick firm hit shear the slug. The problem ppl have is trying to shear the slug out when its to hot - hence the roll-over of the slug edges and the chasing it back and forth thru the cross section, let it cool a bit so it shears. Practice is key. I use flat ended punches.

Frosty - don't fret - there are rotary dial apps for cell phones you can download!!!

Renaissance wax.

You have the basic form needed, now it's just some practice with it to get a feel for using it with hot steel. The shoulders on the leaf are also controlled during the spreading of the leaf - that is were more practice come into play, so you can get the metal to move where you want it.

Pictures (multiple views) would be a great help to see what your experiencing.

Mark Krause comes to mind of someone very familiar with those types of power hammers also.

Use only hose that is rate for propane.