Frozenforge

It would appear the the burners are not inducing enought air as Frosty says. I use linear burners and at 5 psi they have a pretty good roar and the flame from the forge is shooting out the openings. The placement of the mig tip in relation to the bell reducer is critical to it pulling in air. I cant tell how far down from the inlet pipe the tip sticks down but if is too high it will not induce air properly. here are a couple pictures of spare burner I have just for other stuff. Yes that is a golf ball I am using for a choke! It fit and no thread cutting! The mig tip comes off the 1/8 brass tube and goes down to where the reducer has just transitioned to the smaller diameter. This burner will run stable from 1 psi up to 40 psi in open air. The choke is set right now for a neutral flame. With no choke it runs lean above a couple psi. I made linear ones cause Ron Reils website was the first one I came across before I discovered IFI. In hind sight I believe the T burners are easier to make and tune but I have not made one yet. When I make my next burner that is what I want to try.

I looked around my work area and couldnt see any of this so called "clutter"????, it must be under all the good stuff! My rule is that if I forgot I even had it to get rid of it. I do wish that we had more old industrial scrap pieces up here, I have a weakness for old gears, pulleys and wheels so its actually probably good that we dont.

Highly recommended reading that is not just for anvilites, Mr Postman has created and researched information that is worthy of just rewards. Many people that I have passed on information that I learned never knew the manufacturing process and or the labor involved in an anvil. They pretty much assume they just come from a mass production line. Most research is related to how much they can sell it for! Factory ceased anvil production in 1950 with approximatly 52000 Arm & Hammer anvils made.

Would appear to be 1941, 1942 for that S/N with the arc welded base. Very nice, anvil envy!!

Nice Trenton, by the S/N its approx 1902. Mount it good, with the thin heel a long horn it will probably have quite the ring to it!

Has anyone ever had hornets build a nest in their forge????! Had them set up home in my grill one summer, revenge for all the stings over the years!

I know what you mean Frosty, I'll take a peek in a pawn shop about 1 or 2 times a year and if its a tool or a weapon of any sort it would be cheaper to buy new. I have also noticed that they never seem to sell any of those items! One of the shops has a chinese 3/4 drive ratchet and socket sets for $595, been there for over a year, the other day I took a look and now it says SALE $595 and there is another price tag now that has $695 on it!

Nothing like a blacksmith make over to make an anvil sing! Nice rescue that PW is nowhere near ready for retirement.

Having the cash with you will make sure you dont miss out when a lead pops up out of no where as they seem to when you use the TPAAAT. Many times the cash machine or bank is too far away. Craigslist is tough cause its a challenge to see the ad as soon as its posted and being the first one there. Good luck

You have a Trenton and if Im reading the s/n correct A5878 that would be 1898. If there is another number after the 8 then it would be 1906. The Z254 refers to the weight and one of the anvil makers. Looks to be in good condition. Hows the rebound, drop a ball bearing on the face from about 10 inches and see how high it bounces back. 7" would be 70%, 8"=80%.

Just look at the price of a new 1/2 ton truck from the early 80s to what they go for now! I do believe the "reality" shows have inflated asking prices and if your patient enough somebody who has lots of money will come along.

The Trenton s/n would date it at 1921.

Research a staircase twist, Im sure there are some videos on the internet.

An old friend of mine asked me to make a rail spike knife for him, I normally tell people that I don't make knives so this is my first. I don't have the experience and materials to make what I would consider a proper knife so I told him its more for the look.

I had an acetylene regulator that would drop pressure as you used it. Start out at 5psi and within a few minutes you would see it down to 2 psi. When I got it used it had been left cranked in for a long period of time so the internals were damaged. Local Welding supply shop overhauled it for reasonable price

Have never had a specific dimension, just eyeballed it. Approximatly 1 1/4" to 1 1/2"

Stunning as usual! Everything I have seen of your work so far is inspiring. I am thoroughly jealous of your scrap pile based on the components you use to create the sculptures. The thrift and antique stores up here dont even have nice pieces like you use. if you dont mind me asking whats a rough estimate of man hours in this piece?

Check the fitting that connects the regulator to the bottle. Some of these have fixed orifaces as a safety flow limiter, some are drilled straight through. It could just be a bad regulator!

If you dont find any debris or blockage in the jet or line then place the propane tank in hot water to eliminate the cooling effect. I have seen the tank pressure drop in half without there being frost present. Also feel the regulator to make sure its not freezing up.

Finished this one this morning. My wife told me to keep this one. My first staircase twist.

I have always pondered how advancements in technology lead to loss of experience and knowledge being passed on. Unfortunately during the 70s and 80s we had the technology to move foward but no easy way of storing the old methods and information. It seems like there is more information on how an anvil was made in the early 1900s than what was left at the Fisher factory when you rescued what was probably going to be lost forever! Does the Smithsonian have any additional information available? My wife graduated from Boston University and she wants to go back some time when we do the Fisher Museum is on my must do list.

Came with the 1/2" and the 1". I was surprised when I looked up how much they are! It gets hot fast! The lady had $20 on it but she told me 15 while I was looking at it! Who am I to argue with that

Thats kinda what i was thinking but wasn't sure. Couldnt pass it up for for 15 bucks though. I have it sitting back about 1/2 inch after seeing the tip was getting too hot. Seems to be pretty efficient on the propane.

I picked up a 1" Victor Turbo Torch setup at garage sale couple weeks ago so I decided to build a smaller easily portable forge. Its made from light fire brick and is 63 cubic inch volume. Once its warmed up it starts to resonate loudly like when you blow across the top of a bottle. It is right around the sweet spot setting which is really annoying. The turbotorch has a swirling design and the tip of the torch has the lip slightly rolled in to slightly reduce the diameter. Is the the torch causing the howl? Has anyone experienced this or used one of these torches in a forge?

I upset the point some to get all the useable material I can then the twisting. The rest follows as expected. I have an old ball pien that's soft I use for the lip. The wierd thing is that half the people I give one to try to stand it up vertically. They seem to think there is enough mass in the head for it to balance. I might try putting a flat area on the head so that it will stand up.