Frozenforge

What Thomas is saying is that it is hard to help when we have no idea what part of the country or world you live in. In Europe an anvil approximating your description would be easier to locate vs if you live on the Faulkland Islands. Put your location in your profile and maybe someone who lives close by will be able to help!

%#^*%%^ disappearing posts!!! Thanks. The reducer is a standard one sanded and polished. My wife is an early to bed early to rise and I'm a night owl so I have 3-4 hours of quiet time in the garage in the evening and I end up tinkering or improving the aesthetics of projects. People probably think I have OCD! So a high velocity burner requires a more radical nozzle, is this a step type with a larger diameter change or steeper taper type say like 6:1?

I had assumed that and it made sense that the longer the heat was in the forge the better. Sometimes all the nonsense and lack of common sense in the world rubs off when the shields are at less than 100%! I only typed and erased the question 3 times before posting!

Is a lower velocity flame preferable over a higher velocity assuming the same amount of btu input into the forge?

Finally a metric and standard crescent wrench! Seeing all the flea market finds and scrap stuff makes me jealous. Up hear you can occasionally find something at a garage sale but usually I see stuff like that at antique stores and priced accordingly.

Frosty At the last meeting Tristan had a 1/2" T burner. The T fitting looked like it was 1/2"on all three sides or were the air intakes 3/4". I have a .025 mig tip already and some 1/2" nipples. I want to try and get one setup tomorrow. I'm tired of the howl from the turbo torch and wearing earmuffs when using my small brick forge

Please list the qualifications to become a curmudgeon in order of importance! My kid says I am one, little good for nothin whipper snapper!

How long is the mixing tube coming off the T? From the picture it appears the tube is too short or it is sticking into the forge thats why Frosty has asked twice. Review his burner instructions.

Sorry Clenceo to have hijacked the thread! Mike, I recall from somewhere about putting a compression type spring that fits against the I.D. of the mixing tube to promote mixing and a swirl effect. Any thoughts? I have built Ron Reil style, improved with mig tips and a stainless flare and adjustable choke and when I have them tuned they induce too much air to run neutral with the chokes wide open (though I will have to double check my flame colors now).I am in the process of making a 3/4 burner of your design but was wondering if yours do the same thing. Here is the first one I built using the 1.5x.75 reducer. Later ones I used te 2x.75 reducer. The choke is in the position that provides the best stable flame from 1-2 psi to 45 psi. There is about 5/16 opening between the ball and pipe.

Thank you Mike. I find tuning the homemade burners very interesting because they function over a wide range of tuning level and I like to tinker!

Mike, What defines high speed? Does the gas velocity alter the colors? Am I seeing those shades slightly different? I do know that when my wife is painting the house she shows me color samples and I often see no difference, especially in the purple shades. I don't want to provide any misinformation and most of my experience prior to propane burners is with oxy acetylene flame. Sorry if I mislead anyone

The 96kg would have better insulating properties but would be more fragile. I dont think it would make much difference on an average size forge.

Looks more like a hornless anvil than a sawmakers. All the sawmakers anvils I have seen did not have a hardie hole. Possibly less common than the sawmakers?

Thats what I would name a Frankenstein Cross , square head, bolts in the neck, a classic and hardly a failure in my opinion!

Pictures are always good. Sounds like an English anvil, there were many manufacturers but sometimes the shape can help identify.

Like Charles said, if chrome plated, remove the chrome BEFORE putting it in the forge. Look up Hexavalent Chromium health hazards. If it is matt black should be ok, I have seen some tools with what looks like a black chrome finish, I don't know what process is used to create it so I would be cautious.

The rear burner appears to be fairly close to neutral and the front one is lean or oxidizing (too much air). A picture of rest of the setup might be helpful. The mig tip improved burner eliminates slight variations of the oriface that can happen when drilling by hand. You can block the air inlet gradually to richen the mixture to see how the color changes. As you block more off the richer the flame will get.

At my house few items fell over, the biggest mess was the water that sloshed out of the fish tank. Further south around Soldotna it ruptured gas lines in a neighborhood and 4 houses were damaged by fire. This was the biggest one I have felt in the 30+ years I have been here! The epicenter was in an active volcanic reagion where the 1912 Katmai-Novarupta eruption occurred creating the valley of 10,000 smokes which is still cooling 100+ years later!

I found a tapered bull pin that has a 10 to 1 taper which works out to a 11.5' angle. I figured that was close enough. Heated the end of a piece of stainless of the correct I.D. and pressed it down over the pin till I had the desired flare outlet size. Took a few heats to perform but came out ok.

The only time I think the traditional vs modern methods matter is when someone is being paid for a certain method or are being deceitful. I don't believe that there were very many people blacksmithing as a hobby at the turn of the century and as a business if there was a way to produce a product easier and cheaper it was welcomed. I seem to remember that oxy acetelyne really proved itself by a demonstration of cutting portholes at a shipyard. In 20 minutes it performed what took many hours to cut by hand!

Thats some hefty twisting! How many twists in the 1'? As Ian asked are you doing this by hand or with mechanical assistance? It will be fairly hefty equipment either way!

I only use the drift to spread it open enough to then work it open on the horn or a small cone. It seems to work better cause when stretching it finds thinnest part and all the force concentrates there which is the opposite of what you really want. By working it open over a horn or cone you can dictate where you want it to stretch.

Market may not be good but the user won't hear any complaints hopefully!

I will bring it and some other goodies that I recently got from Boeing surplus

The inside diameter is constant. With the outside tapering down as you get closer to the wheel. These both have a 1" i.d. I have seen what punishment these will take from accidents and these will flex 30 to 40 degrees before taking a bend and don't fracture till about a 90 degree bend.